Vicfreg

After exchanging some lessons learned with Rich, I modified my shaker to rotate it so that the front indent in the base was correctly oriented to clear my distributor and ignition wires. With my particular base, which is a 351W fiberglass reproduction, I cut the 3 studs off the base, and aligned my shaker top so that it was "straight".   I then drilled new holes in the base to align with the holes in the midplate.   For now , I will use some 1/4-20 bolts and nuts to secure it.  Long term, plan to epoxy some T-Nuts on the base and use 1/4" bolts on top.
More to come..... 
Thanks, Rich....
 

Still working on my punchlist.   Installed main door handle actuator rod.  Got the "anti-rattle" sleeve from NPD, good fit and finish.  Also got some of those old "red" clips that hold the actuator rods to the door handle and latch mechanism.   Took picture from the top looking down inside the door, as a reminder to run the main rod with the bow toward the inside door skin. This will avoid contact with the window regulator arms.
Also, don't forget to slide the main door handle actuator rod retaining clip on the rod. This keeps it away from the widow mechanism.  It has an orientation tab and threaded insert, and is attached from the passenger compartment side of the door.  

Finished product, some smoke lens LED motorcycle blinker/parking lights. My front bumper and grill and lower valance are all going to be black, should be pretty cool
 

Finished product, some smoke lens LED motorcycle blinker/parking lights. My front bumper and grill and lower valance are all going to be black, should be pretty cool
 

Finished product, some smoke lens LED motorcycle blinker/parking lights. My front bumper and grill and lower valance are all going to be black, should be pretty cool
 

Sketched out an idea to use some dark tinted motorcycle blinker/parking lights to replace my standard parking light assemblies.  I had an old pair, so took my cutting wheel to them and sliced off the old light housing/lens assembly.   Made some brackets out of aluminum angle, and attached them with 10-32 screws and Riv Nuts.   In the process of coating these, and will use some black coated (not oxide) fasteners.   More pics to come.  Lights are really bright, so should be cool.
 

Sketched out an idea to use some dark tinted motorcycle blinker/parking lights to replace my standard parking light assemblies.  I had an old pair, so took my cutting wheel to them and sliced off the old light housing/lens assembly.   Made some brackets out of aluminum angle, and attached them with 10-32 screws and Riv Nuts.   In the process of coating these, and will use some black coated (not oxide) fasteners.   More pics to come.  Lights are really bright, so should be cool.
 

Dude, that airbox is kickass.  What a great job with the vision and then fabricating it.  Well done!

The Borgeson has the same problem with return to center if there is not enough caster.  I have that setup on my '68 Mustang, and I ran out of space in the front wheel well when I tried to dial in the required caster that Borgeson specifies.  On my 1970, with the (+) 3 UCA, that is not an issue.   
Bigmal, to answer your question, I am not sure how much caster the 1" drop adds, or if it adds any caster at all.   
The Boss 302 chassis mod book I attached earlier in this thread shows a 2 degree positive caster with the Shelby drop (Stage II), as opposed to the zero degree shown in Stage I.  Not sure if that is due to the drop, or a required change in the caster to accommodate the revised suspension geometry .  I am sure there are some suspension experts out there that can answer this question.

Ralt962 happy that helped.   Post some pics of your install, I am sure others have run into the same problem.
 
Rich - Yes, welding required to install the panhard bar mount on the drivers side frame rail.   The instructions show those details.
Yes, there is room to get the exhaust around the panhard bar and rear anti-roll bar, but requires some measure/bend/fit skills that I just don't have.  
I wanted to run 2-1/2 inch exhaust the whole way back.  I also wanted to do something different, so I thought that filling in the reverse light holes in the rear valence, and running the exhaust through the valence similar to a '66 GT would be cool.  Came out great.   I cannot take credit for the exhaust system "artwork" ....that is all done by my friend Mike (latoracing) a long time member of the forum.   
I did all the under the car detailing, but the exhaust is really exceptional.  Based on a 1970 "Pypes" 2-1/2 inch SS exhaust kit.  As I have a convertible, this was a real challenge as the exhaust needed to sneak on top of the center reinforcement plate on either side of the driveshaft.
Pics below
 
 
 
 

Pics of my setup.  I have Viking coil over spring/shock combo with adjustable rebound and damping. This also allowed me to adjust the ride height of the car.   
 

Pics of my setup.  I have Viking coil over spring/shock combo with adjustable rebound and damping. This also allowed me to adjust the ride height of the car.   
 

I also used the Gobal West (+)3 UCAs. This will allow you to run large tires up front with more Caster.  I also needed that because the Borgeson steering box needs extra caster.
I used Open Tracker LCAs and their roller idler arm.  High Quality Stuff.
To answer your question, I have attached the Original Ford Boss 302 suspension mod book. The "Stage II" mods include the 1" drop and the shock tower mods.  It also has the caster and camber settings and the ride height.  Hope that helps.
 
BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf

Vinegar

Done.  Added some notes to help interpret the way I built it.
 
 
Speed vs RPM Chart.xlsx

It’s a shame. What’s the VIN on the car, was it a big block or something special to begin with?
if not it may be time to get a good single malt have a farewell drink with the car, and give it a Viking funeral…
 
 

It’s a shame. What’s the VIN on the car, was it a big block or something special to begin with?
if not it may be time to get a good single malt have a farewell drink with the car, and give it a Viking funeral…
 
 

Wow. Prayers for a complete and rapid recovery!!  

And, due to my shorty headers, I could not run my brake lines on the passenger side of the master cylinder

Wow. Prayers for a complete and rapid recovery!!  

I have 2 garages at my house, the upstairs one, where the proper cars are, and then the downstairs garage that my wife calls the "black hole".   My other garage is a 22 foot enclosed car trailer where my '68 Mustang currently sits until I get the '70 done.  It is a great place to hide all kinds of stuff like firearms, cool tools that she won't understand, fishing gear, and tons of car parts.  I also have a bunch of vintage Shelby art n the garages and my office, like the poster on the left with the blonde Shelby Gal with the Cowboy hat.....  I tell her it is just some vintage "advertising"...    "yeah right" is the response...    Thank God for the haven of the man-cave.....
 

After carefully scraping off the loose stuff, I put my DynaMat right over that stuff.

Here is my previous post
 
 
69 coupe from SVK - Page 3 - Project Progress Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
 

Here is my previous post
 
 
69 coupe from SVK - Page 3 - Project Progress Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite
 

Yes, I tried 2 modern master cylinders out as the stock one was really close to my shock tower with my dual brake booster.   I got one for a mid-1990's Ford Explorer and one from a mid-1990's Ford Ranger.   I used the reservoir from one, and the body from another. I used the body that had the fittings connections on the drivers side, and the flat reservoir.   After I did that, I figured out the one in the link below would fit directly.   You need to get the metric standard brake line adaptors.  The bore and rod length are the same as the '70 Mustang.  The only modification I had to do was slightly enlarge the mounting holes.  
I think I did a post on this,  I will look for it.
Dorman M390269 New Brake Master Cylinder