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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. The relays are electro-mechanical. As I recall, they have a ground wire just for those relays, and I found a local place to ground them to. For my AAW harness, I took their under dash ground points, and grounded them to the metal structures under the dash. The courtesy light grounds can be grounded locally also. For your Classic Auto Air, look at the instructions. My Vintage Air has a digital controller. The instructions were clear to take 2 of their ground wires and run them directly to the battery. This is to avoid electrical noise/interference with the fan motor that is part of their A/C package. So, the short answer is for your AAW harness grounds, just use solid local ground points. There are a lot of places under the dash to do that. There is no reason to consolidate them. For any electronics, consider a separate ground to the battery. Good luck. I have lots of pics of my AAW install in my 1970 convertible if you need them, let me know. I also have a spreadsheet I used to track every wire, function, and routing.
  2. Rich, beautiful job. I also like the exhaust tips, but wanted to do something different....
  3. I have a '68 coupe that was manual steering and I installed a Borgeson power steering kit. I am happy with it, but there are a lot of opinions about this, so check with others before you make a decision. I kept the original suspension, and just bolted the GM style power steering pump on. One bit of advice would be to get the longer six-cylinder hoses. Especially if you have headers, you will have to heat wrap the power steering lines. But, works great for me. On my 1970, did the same thing, but installed my power steering lines in the fenderwells... that was a project. Good luck.
  4. The Borgeson has the same problem with return to center if there is not enough caster. I have that setup on my '68 Mustang, and I ran out of space in the front wheel well when I tried to dial in the required caster that Borgeson specifies. On my 1970, with the (+) 3 UCA, that is not an issue. Bigmal, to answer your question, I am not sure how much caster the 1" drop adds, or if it adds any caster at all. The Boss 302 chassis mod book I attached earlier in this thread shows a 2 degree positive caster with the Shelby drop (Stage II), as opposed to the zero degree shown in Stage I. Not sure if that is due to the drop, or a required change in the caster to accommodate the revised suspension geometry . I am sure there are some suspension experts out there that can answer this question.
  5. 69NC has a very good point. I did a AAW wiring kit and ran a separate ground wire from under the dash back to the battery (trunk mounted) for all my digital stuff (VHX dash, EFI, digital ignition, audio, Vintage Air controller, PWM controller, etc.) I installed a grounding terminal block under the dash, for this. I also installed a similar grounding terminal block in the trunk for stuff I had mounted back there. I grounded my battery to the rear frame rail, using a huge ground cable. I also grounded my engine block at the starter, to the front frame rail with the same cable. The AAW under dash wiring is grounded to the metal dash/firewall. Everything works great. .pdf attached with my grounding diagram. Pics of trunk and under dash grounding terminal blocks attached. Mustang Grounding Diagram.pdf
  6. Morgan, great posts here. Nice teamwork with the wife to get the work done, that is awesome! What a great memory that is. I hope you let her drive the car....
  7. Nice job! I also have the AutoCoolGuy fan controller, I really like it.
  8. Dude, that airbox is kickass. What a great job with the vision and then fabricating it. Well done!
  9. Ralt962 happy that helped. Post some pics of your install, I am sure others have run into the same problem. Rich - Yes, welding required to install the panhard bar mount on the drivers side frame rail. The instructions show those details. Yes, there is room to get the exhaust around the panhard bar and rear anti-roll bar, but requires some measure/bend/fit skills that I just don't have. I wanted to run 2-1/2 inch exhaust the whole way back. I also wanted to do something different, so I thought that filling in the reverse light holes in the rear valence, and running the exhaust through the valence similar to a '66 GT would be cool. Came out great. I cannot take credit for the exhaust system "artwork" ....that is all done by my friend Mike (latoracing) a long time member of the forum. I did all the under the car detailing, but the exhaust is really exceptional. Based on a 1970 "Pypes" 2-1/2 inch SS exhaust kit. As I have a convertible, this was a real challenge as the exhaust needed to sneak on top of the center reinforcement plate on either side of the driveshaft. Pics below
  10. I like it because it is really not a true coil over, as I kept the upper and lower control arms. I wanted the ability to adjust the height of my front end after the car was built, without cutting springs. This is a really slick solution. I can adjust the height of the car literally in 1/4" increments.
  11. Page 16 of the Boss 302 handling book shows the Rear Sway Bar details used for the Stage III modifications. Also lists NOS part numbers. The '69 "Brown" Chassis Book https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1969-Ford-Mustang-Chassis-Assembly-Manual-Reprint and the '70 Orange book (similar) show the factory engineering and assembly drawings. The pic below is of my Total Control Products ()Chris Alston Chassis works) Sway Bar/Panhard Bar package that I installed. I am very happy with this setup. The Panhard (aka Track Bar) Bar is adjustable. Instructions attached for info BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf PHL_DS_WEB.pdf
  12. Done. Added some notes to help interpret the way I built it. Speed vs RPM Chart.xlsx
  13. Vicfreg


    Oh right, I forgot about that good point
  14. Vicfreg


    Is there a template for that cutout in the hood with the 4 holes Also, why are the holes open in the rear of the hood....?
  15. Vicfreg


    Oops, This the '69 - '70 one
  16. Vicfreg


    Here is the '68-1/2 version of that.
  17. I really like the Eaton Springs, have them on both cars
  18. I used a SSBC unit on my '68 with Manual brakes, been working fine for 10 (+) years
  19. Also can be used to press out spring eye bushings, although more fun with a torch.... I always thought it would be fun to put a golf ball there and try to flatten it... But, figured there would be too much shrapnel.....
  20. Pics of my setup. I have Viking coil over spring/shock combo with adjustable rebound and damping. This also allowed me to adjust the ride height of the car.
  21. I also used the Gobal West (+)3 UCAs. This will allow you to run large tires up front with more Caster. I also needed that because the Borgeson steering box needs extra caster. I used Open Tracker LCAs and their roller idler arm. High Quality Stuff. To answer your question, I have attached the Original Ford Boss 302 suspension mod book. The "Stage II" mods include the 1" drop and the shock tower mods. It also has the caster and camber settings and the ride height. Hope that helps. BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf
  22. It’s a shame. What’s the VIN on the car, was it a big block or something special to begin with? if not it may be time to get a good single malt have a farewell drink with the car, and give it a Viking funeral…
  23. My car actually looked a lot worse than yours. For instance, your floors in the rear don't look that bad from the door jams back. I just did a 1/2 floor replacement. I would personally replace just what is needed, and try to keep the original structure as much as possible. But up to you. I don't have any interior dimensions. I would also reach out and get some feedback on the Dynacorn experience. I think that is an expensive proposition. You would be better off finding a six cylinder sportsroof and starting with that. Good luck
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