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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. I am pretty sure there is also a 2 piece eccentric, don't use that one.
  2. Picture of double roller with eccentric. I used an edelbrock chain kit as I think it was not as wide.
  3. I did a 5.0 on my '68 and to keep it simple, I used the old style timing cover and mechanical fuel pump. Used 1985-1/2 distributor with the Ford "blue plug" Duraspark unit. Have a B303 cam with an Edelbrock performer rpm intake and Holley street avenger, GT40 cast iron heads. Runs awesome, used a Ford Explorer 3.73 posi and a T-5Z. I ditched the original headers, they didn't fit. Used Patriot Tri-Ys.
  4. Mike, if you use a mini-starter, I typically run the battery ground to the starter mounting bolt. Then run a separate large wire from the other starter bolt to the frame. Those little ground straps are useless. I also use DEI cable heat barrier on the wires to avoid the issue that Phil is describing.
  5. Here are some of mine before the engine was in, shows the block off plate that comes with the Vintage Air Unit. I also have block and wiring diagrams I created for the install if you need them.
  6. Danno, do you want to sell the extra top parts? I need some and would be willing to buy whatever you have
  7. Yeah, thanks. Took a whole winter to do that, and a couple months of prep with wiring diagrams and a spreadsheet. I have lots of pictures and lessons learned, so any questions, please ask.
  8. I pulled all the Fox stuff off and used a CVF racing serpentine pulley set with a GM pump and Borgeson steering box. CVF is made in the US, and has very low prices compared to other serpentine belt systems. There are others that have used this setup. It also eliminates the Ford control valve and those leaky hoses. You will need to get a manual steering center link and pitman arm. One pic on the engine stand, one in the car
  9. Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness. The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.
  10. Here is the tabulation of where my VHX dash module wires go to. I have a 1970 convertible. I arbitrarily numbered each connection on the VHX box, even the sensor and ethernet plugs. if you see an "x" I did not use that function for my car. If you see a "conn", that means that I made a connector to route the wire to/from the VHX box and the end point. If you see "harness", that means the wiring was supplied by VHX. Examples of this are the oil and water temperature sensors, and the speed sensor for the transmission. I hope this helps VHX Input Module Wiring.pdf
  11. The VHX manual has a very detailed explanation of what each connection if for, and if it is used. I have every one tabulated, if you want, I can post that.
  12. I am going to Hydro-Dip mine. Otherwise, you can the 3M Di-Noc in brushed aluminum, it is a tedious job to re-do it though.
  13. Car should have 2 torque boxes. Also the convertibles have inner and outer rockers and unique floor pan.
  14. I set my #1 cylinder at TDC with the cap on. I install the distributor, and mark the outside of the distributor housing where the #1 plug wire is. distributor rotates counterclockwise I usually start to the "left" of #1 cylinder and try to get the distributor to rotate clockwise to land right on #1. If you try it a few times, it should work. Also make sure your #1 is at TDC....I do that with my valve cover off and watch for no rocker arm/valve motion
  15. Keep the housing and the axles. All you need to do is upgrade the "center section" to a posi-traction or "track-lok" in Ford verbiage. Plenty of reputable suppliers can get you the new center section. I use 3:50 gears. 4:11 are typically drag-race or street race gears, not very drivable for normal street/highway cruising, unless you make a transmission change to a later overdrive type. Also, make sure it is a real 9" the 8" is very similar. Good website here for info: https://www.diyford.com/ford-axle-history-identification-ford-differentials/
  16. You could put a micro-switch on the hydraulic cylinder set at the correct "up" and "down position". All you need is a "seal in" relay, which keeps the circuit energized after you release the top button. Then, the micro-switch "breaks" the seal-in circuit at the right location, and the motor stops. The problem with this is that you need some kind of "emergency stop" to stop the top motion to avoid trapping fingers, hands, etc when the top is closing. For example, the emergency stop would be useful when you are closing the top and the girlfriend decides to stand on the passenger seat and dance to the "Humpty Hump".... Not that this would ever happen or anything.
  17. Note the AAW kit does not work with factory tach dash without modifying the tach and some of the other gauges. NIckjames - if you actually have a factory tach dash, I highly suggest not messing with it, they are rare and can be restored by someone who wants it.
  18. Ok, I have the factory tach one too. I will post that shortly
  19. AAW has a good decoder for this, using the plug on the circuit board side. See pic below The DIM is for dimming your dash lights when your headlights/parking lights come on. I wired that to the headlight switch parking light/headlight power on.
  20. 1st Pic below is from a high end restoration I took a picture of at Carlisle, 2 barrel small block. Zoom in, coil is under passenger side of air cleaner, right behind the intake manifold heater hose tube. 2nd pic is a Cleveland, coil on drivers side front of block 3rd pic is my 393 stroker, coil mounted to the back of the intake manifold, near firewall, on drivers side.
  21. Yeah, man. Great feeling when you get the shifter in!! I am also using the CVF Pulleys, I really like the setup. Very high quality.
  22. Early version, with mechanical fuel pump and passenger side dipstick and timing pointer.
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