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Vicfreg

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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. Oh, yeah, I will for sure cut the hose. I have a couple AN bulkhead fittings lying around, I may use one of them with a 90 degree AN elbow pointed toward the back of the car.
  2. Actually, there’s one nice clean hole, which I’m pretty sure is for the factory AC drain. That’s the one I used for the vintage Air system. For some reason there’s also another very jagged hole that was cut by somebody ...it is definitely not a factory hole. I’m not really sure why it’s there, but I plugged it with a small rubber body plug those assembly books I have show the location of the drain hose I’m a little concerned about that location because with my Headers and exhaust it’s going to get pretty hot there. I’m probably going to swap that rubber hose out and use a piece of braided fuel line, or wrap it with some insulation.
  3. My car is a factory A/C convertible.
  4. Dude, awesome!!!!! Nothing like the first start! Congrats!
  5. You need to run one of the two valve cover breathers with a PVC valve to the carb base/vacuum port. Run the other one to the air cleaner base. That should solve your problem. Open breathers will spit oil under deceleration and hard downshifts.
  6. I have also taken apart a '70 switch. I would try and solder repair the ground. The ignition switch is one area where you don't want ground problems. Or, find a '70 Maverick somewhere, I think same/similar ignition switch. They are not impossible to find.
  7. I have the Borgeson set up on 2 cars, and it works fine. On my '70, I used open tracker roller idler arm, and a factory Pitman arm and manual center link. Some pics attached. I had no alignment issues that I recall.
  8. If the Holley is sluggish, you may want to baseline the idle mixture by using a vacuum gauge. Then set the curb idle. A lot of people use the throttle plate adjustment screw to adjust the idle before adjusting the mixture screws. This causes your main (primary) throttle plates to be slightly "cracked", so when you come off idle, the car bogs. There is a "transfer slot" cut into the primary throttle plates and underside of the carb which allow the car to run and come off of idle with the main throttle plates closed. Try this and see if it works: https://forums.holley.com/entry.php?429-How-To-Adjust-The-Idle-Mixture-On-Holley-Carbs
  9. Yeah, I see that now. There is no powdercoat on the top of that tab, it is bare aluminum. Interesting that the hold down bolt isn't a good enough ground. Also interesting that nothing mentioned in the instructions. Thanks!!
  10. Hey Byron. When I talked to FiTech, I asked them how to ground the EFI body. They suggested using one of these screws (see picture), or a self tapping screw into the small hole near the carb mounting studs. How did you ground the EFI body?
  11. If you use a trunk mounted battery, you can put the front box in the space where the battery was. Just remove the battery tray. I have see people use those large, underhood fuse boxes that come on modern cars. You can source one at the scrapyard. Or use a small air intake box. They usually are gasketed.
  12. Vicfreg

    Checking in

    Right, I think it was supposed to be reflective like the Mach 1 stripes.
  13. Holy cow. 4 volts? Where did you ground the FiTech at? On the body, or mounting bolts...?
  14. Vicfreg

    Checking in

    I found it also. The black strip apparently has a gold accent on it.
  15. I am surprised the storage unit has no camera's. You would think that it would be required by their insurance. This really sucks. We all need to keep an eye out for stuff on Ebay, etc....
  16. I have an aftermarket wheel also, but have a hub adaptor, so don't have the horn ring issue. I don't think you can remove it, as on the '70's, I am pretty sure that actuator arm goes to the column mounted ignition switch. I would take a Dremel with a little cut off wheel and cut that tab off on the top side.
  17. I used a Dynomat style sound deadener/heat barrier as the others mentioned In other areas of the car I have used the heating duct insulation that Danno mentioned. It is cheap compared to the Dynomat. You can get it a Lowes or Home Depot. zi used
  18. I have a massive ground wire running from the front frame to the block, at the starter mounting bolt. Also, I was on the phone with FiTech, and they admitted they did not properly ground their throttle body. They suggested running a separate ground wire directly to the housing. This is to ensure you have more than 10 volts to the FiTech white wire during cranking. This has been causing hard starting issues... Byron, let me know how it works out......
  19. Wow! Good detective work. And thank goodness for these new midi-fuses. I think my alternator wire heads straight away from the alternator body, I am going to check that myself. If you try and fuse the starter, it will likely blow, due to the current draw. That is why I put my starter solenoid in the trunk. The starter wire is only hot when you are cranking. In the original installation, the battery hot goes directly to the starter solenoid, so it's no different. Some of the old GM cars I had with the starter mounted solenoid had a fusible link to protect the main battery feed. I have midi type fuses on all my main power feeds.
  20. I had interference issues also. I used a AN style 90 degree "push on" elbow. See pic below. The lower part of the 90 is a AN fitting female nut. It allows the 90 degree elbow to rotate, then you tighten it in the position you want. In the manifold you use a AN male to NPT male fitting. I rotated mine to the rear. Worked great.
  21. Vicfreg

    Checking in

    nice. Where did you get it from?
  22. I used dielectric grease on my poly bushings, this was recommended by the supplier.
  23. That is a "check" ball and the cylindrical thing is a check ball "weight". Some of the smaller carbs like the one barrels have several of these. The ball goes in first, the weight on top of it. I think they were used to prevent reverse flow around the accelerator pump or power valve locations, but not 100% sure. The 4300 is not a great carb. Due to emissions, they changed the design frequently. The 4100 is a much better design. There is a lot of info on trying to tune these 4300's available out there. Good luck. If you want to keep the car original, I understand. If you want to run, choose a good aftermarket carb and you will be much happier.
  24. Yeah, looks good. Those rainy days are good for doing wiring......
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