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Vicfreg

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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. Hi John, I’ll check my email may be full. Agree they are stamped that way, but typically that means right hand is passenger side door and left hand is driver side door. I think in the case of these window guides each door gets one right hand and one left hand. But I’m not sure that’s why am asking. I needed one replacement, so I got it from CJ pony parts. The one I got from them was marked hinge side.
  2. I was over Mike's (Latoracing) on Saturday, putting finishing touches on the undercarriage of the car. He has a great lift, so keeps me from doing this laying on the floor.... Thanks Mike! Installed my Lokar kickdown cable, bled the brakes for the last time, lowered my rear suspension 1", did some touch up on the underbody with black paint, tightened up some suspension parts, re-tourqued some exhaust connections post-first-time-heat-up. Re-set my FiTech back to factory settings and got the car started. Tried to adjust my IAC settings, but not really a successful outcome. Need time to play with that. Lost my rebuilt door hinges (darn). Headed back to the parts bin/storage building to dig for them before I order new ones. Tried to remember the left hand/right hand/hinge side/etc orientation of my window channel guides. Any help would be appreciated. the black one on the right is labelled "Hinge side, RH" All my other door channel guides are original
  3. Rich - window felts are used on the rear window stops. See my pics above. It is a weird shaped bracket that I had in my "window" carboard boxes, and I finally figured out where it went... ugh, a senior moment.... Hey Mike. Got the EFI running, but not satisfied with the cold start. I hadn't really played with it enough. I need a couple hours to go through the various settings to get it right. Once it starts and warms up, it has a very stable idle. The warm up above a certain temperature puts it in closed loop control with the O2 sensor. In open loop when warming up ,it has not been great. I am sure I will get it right. Plenty of help out there. Happy to see you are headed to Virginia. I am still working up in Canada, but permanent home is in NC. Can't wait to see/hear your car running.
  4. Hey Mike. Hope all is well. I am back on my project after a short hiatus. Hope you are too. Was looking forward to see how the sub-frames came out.
  5. Oh, these are the door braces. Like everything Mike does, fits perfectly and a work of art.
  6. Hi all. Back working on the car, after spending most the summer travelling/working in Canada/Quarantining... Back in NC for a couple weeks, and trying to get some mini-projects out of the way. I am headed over to Mike's (Latoracing) who has kept a watchful eye on my car over the past months, while putting some finishing touches on it. I plan on hanging the doors on the car, so Mike can have his beautifully welded door braces back. To get ready for that, I pulled the doors out of storage, I had stripped the contents off the doors and had them media blasted and epoxy primed. Over last day or so, I put some Boom Mat in the doors, installed new window regulators, window guides, internal bump stops, and the door latch on both doors. I also replaced some of the worn parts on the window guides and rear bump stops. I also put new gaskets on the bolt in window mounts. This is all a lot easier to do when the door is off of the car. First 3 pics Old window guide spacers. Note that taper faces to the center of the guard. New bushings from NPD. Refurbished window guide with new bushings and new gasket. Next pic - door where you can see Boom Mat and window regulator. The two bolts and the oval plate at the latch end of the door hold in the rear bump stop. The door has a slotted hole in it to allow up and down movement. I always start with the stop pushed all the way down. The oval plate will need to be painted body color, so don't lose these when you take your door apart. (There are also smaller oval plates used for the rear window regulators on coupes and convertibles) Next set of pics - the rear window stop has a felt pad on it to keep the window from scratching when going up and down. One of mine was missing, the other was worn out. I couldn't find an exact replacement, but I found some in the NPD Catalog for earlier year Mustangs. They are slightly longer, so a quick cut with the hacksaw solved that problem. Mine were riveted in, you can see the rivets in the picture with the rear stop flipped over. So, I drilled out the rivets. The window felt kit came with a couple large staples, which I did not use, due to less than great results by the installer (me) in previous attempts with these type of stapled installs. So, I used 3M double sided body tape instead. I double stacked it and compressed it in my vice. I have used this tape to hold body parts on for later model cars, so I am sure it will last here. Last project was to drill a hole and put in a riv-nut to mount my 1969 Sport Mirrors. I had 2 existing holes that were much too close for the approx 7" distance between the new mounting hole. My car had these on both doors. The front "riv-nut" that was existing on both doors was actually a rubber/composite insert, which was easy to remove. I got a sport mirror mounting kit from NPD that had the correct screws and riv-nut. So, measure twice, drill once, and had a new hole (17/64") for the 1/4" riv-nut. I use riv-nuts a lot they are great for flush mounting stuff where you can't have a screw/bolt-nut combination. A while back, I got myself a riv-nut driver attachment for my DeWalt 20v drill. It works great. You progressively work your way tighter by using the clutch setting on the drill, until the riv-nut doesn't rotate anymore. If you go too far, you will deform the metal. Mine worked with the clutch setting on 10-11. It makes a nice, flush connection if done properly. I have included a pic of the adaptor if anyone is interested. Mine came with a bunch of dies that are for all your common machine screws and 1/4 -20 fasteners. It also has the equivalent metric sized dies. The only thing I am not really happy with is the "gasket" for the mirrors, that I got from NPD. If anyone has a mirror gasket that doesn't look like it is "squished" out on the sides, I would appreciate the info. The window project is a great weekend/weeknight project to do, which will give you better window operation in the end. Don't forget to use lubricant (lithium grease) when you do the final assembly. Vic
  7. Oh, yeah, I will for sure cut the hose. I have a couple AN bulkhead fittings lying around, I may use one of them with a 90 degree AN elbow pointed toward the back of the car.
  8. Actually, there’s one nice clean hole, which I’m pretty sure is for the factory AC drain. That’s the one I used for the vintage Air system. For some reason there’s also another very jagged hole that was cut by somebody ...it is definitely not a factory hole. I’m not really sure why it’s there, but I plugged it with a small rubber body plug those assembly books I have show the location of the drain hose I’m a little concerned about that location because with my Headers and exhaust it’s going to get pretty hot there. I’m probably going to swap that rubber hose out and use a piece of braided fuel line, or wrap it with some insulation.
  9. My car is a factory A/C convertible.
  10. Dude, awesome!!!!! Nothing like the first start! Congrats!
  11. You need to run one of the two valve cover breathers with a PVC valve to the carb base/vacuum port. Run the other one to the air cleaner base. That should solve your problem. Open breathers will spit oil under deceleration and hard downshifts.
  12. I have also taken apart a '70 switch. I would try and solder repair the ground. The ignition switch is one area where you don't want ground problems. Or, find a '70 Maverick somewhere, I think same/similar ignition switch. They are not impossible to find.
  13. I have the Borgeson set up on 2 cars, and it works fine. On my '70, I used open tracker roller idler arm, and a factory Pitman arm and manual center link. Some pics attached. I had no alignment issues that I recall.
  14. If the Holley is sluggish, you may want to baseline the idle mixture by using a vacuum gauge. Then set the curb idle. A lot of people use the throttle plate adjustment screw to adjust the idle before adjusting the mixture screws. This causes your main (primary) throttle plates to be slightly "cracked", so when you come off idle, the car bogs. There is a "transfer slot" cut into the primary throttle plates and underside of the carb which allow the car to run and come off of idle with the main throttle plates closed. Try this and see if it works: https://forums.holley.com/entry.php?429-How-To-Adjust-The-Idle-Mixture-On-Holley-Carbs
  15. Yeah, I see that now. There is no powdercoat on the top of that tab, it is bare aluminum. Interesting that the hold down bolt isn't a good enough ground. Also interesting that nothing mentioned in the instructions. Thanks!!
  16. Hey Byron. When I talked to FiTech, I asked them how to ground the EFI body. They suggested using one of these screws (see picture), or a self tapping screw into the small hole near the carb mounting studs. How did you ground the EFI body?
  17. If you use a trunk mounted battery, you can put the front box in the space where the battery was. Just remove the battery tray. I have see people use those large, underhood fuse boxes that come on modern cars. You can source one at the scrapyard. Or use a small air intake box. They usually are gasketed.
  18. Vicfreg

    Checking in

    Right, I think it was supposed to be reflective like the Mach 1 stripes.
  19. Holy cow. 4 volts? Where did you ground the FiTech at? On the body, or mounting bolts...?
  20. Vicfreg

    Checking in

    I found it also. The black strip apparently has a gold accent on it.
  21. I am surprised the storage unit has no camera's. You would think that it would be required by their insurance. This really sucks. We all need to keep an eye out for stuff on Ebay, etc....
  22. I have an aftermarket wheel also, but have a hub adaptor, so don't have the horn ring issue. I don't think you can remove it, as on the '70's, I am pretty sure that actuator arm goes to the column mounted ignition switch. I would take a Dremel with a little cut off wheel and cut that tab off on the top side.
  23. I used a Dynomat style sound deadener/heat barrier as the others mentioned In other areas of the car I have used the heating duct insulation that Danno mentioned. It is cheap compared to the Dynomat. You can get it a Lowes or Home Depot. zi used
  24. I have a massive ground wire running from the front frame to the block, at the starter mounting bolt. Also, I was on the phone with FiTech, and they admitted they did not properly ground their throttle body. They suggested running a separate ground wire directly to the housing. This is to ensure you have more than 10 volts to the FiTech white wire during cranking. This has been causing hard starting issues... Byron, let me know how it works out......
  25. Wow! Good detective work. And thank goodness for these new midi-fuses. I think my alternator wire heads straight away from the alternator body, I am going to check that myself. If you try and fuse the starter, it will likely blow, due to the current draw. That is why I put my starter solenoid in the trunk. The starter wire is only hot when you are cranking. In the original installation, the battery hot goes directly to the starter solenoid, so it's no different. Some of the old GM cars I had with the starter mounted solenoid had a fusible link to protect the main battery feed. I have midi type fuses on all my main power feeds.
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