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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. Oh, here is the website. I am not in any affiliated with this company. Billet Automotive Buttons - Design your own custom billet buttons 12v
  2. Yeah, good winter project, will make this into a console wiring harness. More stuff to be added. Got the switches from a place in Australia. Hi quality, came with connectors, mounting nuts and even o-rings in case you are using on a boat I guess. They come in momentary, or "latching" configurations with one Normally Open Contact, and one Normally Closed Contact. Buttons are backlit. ABS buttons have LED halo and backlit symbols, SS buttons have LED halo. The text is laser etched. They have a lot of pre-etched choices already in their catalog, or you can specify a custom symbol and text. I mixed and matched to get what wanted. I also did 2 custom ones for my VHX Dash buttons. Another offering is a high amperage switch if you want to go directly to loads like fog lights. I use relays, so I did not get the high amperage version. Plus, they are longer, and I am short on room.
  3. Started wiring the switches. Will be using some terminal blocks.
  4. Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights
  5. Getting close with my console build. These are 19mm pushbutton switches with blue halo led backlight. Plus, cupholder, of course…
  6. Working on my console. Finalized my switch layout, Made my final templates, this is my production version. I want to order my switches this weekend, should have the council put together in a couple weeks with all the wiring. Installed my VHS clock on the passenger side dash assembly.
  7. No, you are correct. I picked the 5.3" as it was the largest number. My catalog cut is identical to the information that you have above This picture gives you an idea of the difference in height from rear to front. This is on my engine stand, so not perfectly level.
  8. Yep, it is a 7181 dual plane. My catalog cut says it is 5.3" high. I am not at home right now, so I can't really measure that for you. But, I recall the stock cast iron intake had a car spacer, so should not be a problem. Especially if you are not using a shaker hood. I used the 60229 heads, which have a smaller intake valve diameter. I did that as I have a 393 stroker kit installed and did not want to take a chance on the valve to piston clearance. I also have a vintage Ford/Shelby "C9X" intake that is higher than stock, they were used on stock Shelby's. For the EFI, the single plane may be a better option. You should check with the EFI manufacturer. On the dual plane the fuel can puddle on the plenum when the car is cold, requiring some fussing with your cold start/cold crank/fuel settings. I noticed you have a mechanical fuel pump installed. You should do an in tank EFI if possible now, while you have the chance. I kept my mechanical pump and used the FiTech fuel command center. I had to modify that to run a fuel return line back to the gas tank to keep the pump/housing cool.
  9. I can tell you from first had experience with my '70 convertible restoration that the structure is your #1 concern. There are many hidden surprises there. I would get the car to a condition where it is safe to drive and enjoy it. If you want fix it, be prepared to pay. Any decent shop will charge you $100 per hour for labor. So, 2 people working on your car for 20 hours will cost you $4,000. The best sheet metal/body/structure/fabrication person I know is up here in NC, not far from you, up Interstate 85. He is on the forum. His name is Mike goes by latoracing. if you are not in a rush, contact him, I know he has a few cars in his shop right now. He has detailed pictures of my '70 convertible rebuild. Always here if you have other '70 vert questions. Vic
  10. I have FiTech on my 351W based 393 stroker. Only issue I had was to make sure I always had 12v to the EFI electronics. I have a trunk mounted battery and even with large cables had some voltage drop while cranking issues. I added a buck-boost controller and that solved the problem. I am running a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with a Shaker hood. IMG_7174.MOV
  11. Thanks Mike, I’ll be looking at those soon
  12. Hey Mike. Garage looks great! I used an X-Pipe from Pypes kit # SFM03. It was a 2-1/2" Cat Back SS kit. You can probably have your muffler shop make a H-Pipe. I think I did this because I have a C-6, and with the Convertible support plate in that area, the X-Pipe had the best footprint. The "old school" way of finding the right spot for the H-Pipe used to be to use some cheap spray paint on the pipe section just downstream of the headers, then run the car for like 10 minutes. Where the paint burns off, that is where you locate the cross over pipe. I also think you can use some type of steel marking crayon, and see where it melts......
  13. Rich, thanks! I will use the later model year set, and find some. I had a long discussion at the stop about paint on/off the car. The entire car will be assembled for final body seam alignment and fit up. Then the car will be painted assembled. The front fenders will have bedliner type paint on the inside. The trunk lid, cowl, stone deflector valences, etc will be painted off of the car. The reason for this is to ensure the final seam alignment and fitup can be done with body panels without the final top coat. Expecially with the way the Mustang hoods mount, it is almost a certainty that the hood will never go back to the right place if you remove it. It also allows the paint shop to totally mask my car only once, as the undercarriage and engine bay are done, and they will wrap the tires/wheels and mask the car off to the floor.
  14. Look too small to be the dowels from the block. They look like locating pins/dowels from the pressure plate. Do you have a manual trans in the car? Are these sheared off or smooth on the ends.....?
  15. RWC - What temperature thermostat do you have installed? On the Ford Contour, pretty sure the temperature sensor is in an assembly that includes the thermostat housing.
  16. I also used the Ford Ranger/Explorer Master Cylinder. The only mod was that the mounting holes had to be slightly enlarged. Can't remember which one, pick the one that has the brake line fitting holes facing out (toward the fender), not in, toward the engine. I used a Wilwood proportioning valve which has the pressure actuated brake light switch, and that gets rid of the brake pedal mounted one. You can see the master cylinder in the picture. I used a dual diaphragm power brake booster, which makes the use of a standard master cylinder a very tight fit to the shock tower. I did that to avoid header interference as I am running a C-6 auto.
  17. Buckeye is correct. My sensor is mounted in line in the bottom radiator hose (outflow) my PMW controller uses that outflow inline sensor as the input, then has the job to regulate the outflow temperature of the radiator by varying the air flow (fan speed) to keep the outflow temperature below the thermostat temperature. This allows the thermostat to regulate coolant temperature going to the engine. With an engine driven fan, the thermostat is in charge of regulating engine temperature. Same idea. Having your electric fans operate off of the thermostat housing temperature can cause the thermostat to cycle open and closed. You can check this with a hand held temperatue sensor.
  18. Thanks all, should be fun. Will post pics of the process. I think 60 days is optimistic..... I hope to get the car back in the fall, which is more realistic.... I may go with a "no stripe" look, not sure yet. Rich, one other question I know I asked you before, but can't find where I filed it... For the door to body wireways, I think you used later model ('71-'73) flexible conduit. Is that right? The hole should be much smaller than the factory 2-1/2" hole on the '69-'70s. Did yo still drill the hole at the "dimple" in the door? Any pics/info would be appreciated.
  19. Finally off to the paint shop after 5 years of working on the car! Will take around 60 days, I have use the shop before, they’re not really fast but they do very high-quality work I will need a recommendation on hood stripes, I’m not sure if I even want to use them, but if I do, looking for best possible quality product that you all have used.
  20. I have a detailed spreadsheet, and wire out for my VHX box, I’ll post over the weekend sometime
  21. Nice article, well done! One comment on the oscilloscope section. Yours has a "mean" value. On some scopes, the mean is calculated based on the cycles (average value of the number of points displayed) that are displayed on the screen. You have about 2-1/2 cycles shown on the screen. Some scopes have what is called a "cycle mean" which give you the true value for one cycle. Would be interesting to see if your scope has that, and if so, how the mean and cycle mean compare.
  22. Wow what a monster. Where do you get the abrasive wheels for that thing?
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