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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. Rich, thanks! I will use the later model year set, and find some. I had a long discussion at the stop about paint on/off the car. The entire car will be assembled for final body seam alignment and fit up. Then the car will be painted assembled. The front fenders will have bedliner type paint on the inside. The trunk lid, cowl, stone deflector valences, etc will be painted off of the car. The reason for this is to ensure the final seam alignment and fitup can be done with body panels without the final top coat. Expecially with the way the Mustang hoods mount, it is almost a certainty that the hood will never go back to the right place if you remove it. It also allows the paint shop to totally mask my car only once, as the undercarriage and engine bay are done, and they will wrap the tires/wheels and mask the car off to the floor.
  2. Look too small to be the dowels from the block. They look like locating pins/dowels from the pressure plate. Do you have a manual trans in the car? Are these sheared off or smooth on the ends.....?
  3. RWC - What temperature thermostat do you have installed? On the Ford Contour, pretty sure the temperature sensor is in an assembly that includes the thermostat housing.
  4. I also used the Ford Ranger/Explorer Master Cylinder. The only mod was that the mounting holes had to be slightly enlarged. Can't remember which one, pick the one that has the brake line fitting holes facing out (toward the fender), not in, toward the engine. I used a Wilwood proportioning valve which has the pressure actuated brake light switch, and that gets rid of the brake pedal mounted one. You can see the master cylinder in the picture. I used a dual diaphragm power brake booster, which makes the use of a standard master cylinder a very tight fit to the shock tower. I did that to avoid header interference as I am running a C-6 auto.
  5. Buckeye is correct. My sensor is mounted in line in the bottom radiator hose (outflow) my PMW controller uses that outflow inline sensor as the input, then has the job to regulate the outflow temperature of the radiator by varying the air flow (fan speed) to keep the outflow temperature below the thermostat temperature. This allows the thermostat to regulate coolant temperature going to the engine. With an engine driven fan, the thermostat is in charge of regulating engine temperature. Same idea. Having your electric fans operate off of the thermostat housing temperature can cause the thermostat to cycle open and closed. You can check this with a hand held temperatue sensor.
  6. Thanks all, should be fun. Will post pics of the process. I think 60 days is optimistic..... I hope to get the car back in the fall, which is more realistic.... I may go with a "no stripe" look, not sure yet. Rich, one other question I know I asked you before, but can't find where I filed it... For the door to body wireways, I think you used later model ('71-'73) flexible conduit. Is that right? The hole should be much smaller than the factory 2-1/2" hole on the '69-'70s. Did yo still drill the hole at the "dimple" in the door? Any pics/info would be appreciated.
  7. Finally off to the paint shop after 5 years of working on the car! Will take around 60 days, I have use the shop before, they’re not really fast but they do very high-quality work I will need a recommendation on hood stripes, I’m not sure if I even want to use them, but if I do, looking for best possible quality product that you all have used.
  8. I have a detailed spreadsheet, and wire out for my VHX box, I’ll post over the weekend sometime
  9. Nice article, well done! One comment on the oscilloscope section. Yours has a "mean" value. On some scopes, the mean is calculated based on the cycles (average value of the number of points displayed) that are displayed on the screen. You have about 2-1/2 cycles shown on the screen. Some scopes have what is called a "cycle mean" which give you the true value for one cycle. Would be interesting to see if your scope has that, and if so, how the mean and cycle mean compare.
  10. Wow what a monster. Where do you get the abrasive wheels for that thing?
  11. Like RPM suggested, make sure you have a good PCV path. The PCV hose connection on a basic Holley is under the rear float bowl.
  12. RPM has good advice, imperative you use anti-seize on the stainless threads on the bolts if they are going into aluminum. (timing cover, aluminum heads, intake manifold, etc) Just a little. Wear gloves, it gets everywhere. I use either a QTip or a solder flux brush to apply.
  13. Hey John, I looked for the Bilstein's and you are right, very expensive. I have the KYBs on my '68, I am happy with them. The KONIs are also nice. See below KONI 8250 1030/1031 Mustang Shock Kit STR.T 1965-1970 (cjponyparts.com) KYB Mustang Shock Kit Excel-G 1965-1970 | CJ Pony Parts
  14. Yeah, that's them. My part # is is not right. Brian has the right series, the RCD. That is what SOT has, and what I have on the car. Street or Track LLC > Shock Absorbers > Bilstein front shock for 67-70 Mustang, 69-77 Maverick - Street valving Street or Track LLC > Shock Absorbers > Bilstein rear shock for 65-73 Mustang, 60-65 Falcon, 67-70 Cougar & 62-65 Fairlane Hope things up there in Calgary are good. Ice finally melting here in Port Huron......
  15. 2006 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 3V Engine Computer Module ECM ECU / 6R3A-12A650-XB | eBay 2006 FORD MUSTANG GT COMPUTER & KEY 4.6 3v AUTOMATIC ECU ECM 6R3A-12A650-XB | eBay
  16. Try this.... Ford 4.6L ITB Intake – ShiftKits Australia
  17. If you assume the O2 sensors are working correctly, then you may have a bad fuel pressure regulator causing you to run rich. Or, one of the engine temperature sensors is not working and is failed low, telling the EFI to run rich.
  18. Vicfreg

    Our new garage

    Nice. What did you decide on the floor coating...?
  19. I have 2 1970 fenders if you are interested IM me.
  20. Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.
  21. Mine is going to paint with the entire power train in, dash out, and doors, fenders, and hood off. My body guy will then install all the body panel and line them up, then shoot the clear coat. after that, install weather stripping, and back to me . My engine compartment and undercarriage are already painted. Also, if you do this, make sure you run the engine and test for leaks. All I will do when I get the car back is bolt on trim, bumpers, lights, windows etc. No matter how careful you are, it is too easy to scratch/dent/scrape new paint when trying to install the engine. Plus the hood has to be off.
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