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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. I have Patriot Ceramic Long Tube Tri-Y Headers on my '68, and I am very happy with them as well.
  2. I did the Mustang Steve Cobra brake conversion, worked great. I sourced some NOS Cobra Brakes from eBay supplier that buys old Ford inventory.
  3. I think that is probably ok then. I will have to go back and look at my gap, but appears to be the same.
  4. Nice. How did you paint the silver on the vent edges?
  5. Mike65, those are very similar to my Heddman's
  6. I think Topher just wants to go from manual to power brakes? Master Power brakes makes high quality stuff, they are located close to me in Mooresville, NC. I have their power brake master cylinder in my 1970 convertible. You should call them directly to make sure you get exactly what you need for your car. I also think you can order direct from them. You will need to change your brake pedal. This is one of those Mustang curses. Lot's of variations and the brake pedals look very similar. Master Power Brakes sells them, and they are really nice and very competitive in pricing, I have one of theirs in my car. Good info from Mustang Steve on this topic here: https://www.mustangsteve.com/msfaqbrakepedals.html If you want to go to disc brakes, OpenTracker is high quality outfit. Lots and lots of other options. Good luck. Feel free to fire away any questions you may have.
  7. MIkeStang, I have a friend who is building a Cleveland for his Torino. I have sent him the list and info. His name is Dave Grey if he calls you that is where the lead came from.
  8. Installing the upper collar that contains the turn signal switch is tricky, as the "t-bolts" can move around and make it hard to capture the 'slots" in the top of the steering column tube. I used some blue painters tape to hold the bolts in place while slowly pushing the top collar down. If you've done this, you know what I mean. I also use a bottom bushing when I rebuild them, as there is not one with the stock setup. The steering shaft "floats" in the inner tube. This is what eventually kill your bearing. I drilled out the ID of the Delrin bushing to 1", then hand filed it to a point where I had a slight interference fit, and the shaft rotated freely.
  9. Yes, sad indeed. I am working in Canada right now, this was heavily covered in the news. The plane was operated by Coulson Aviation a well known worldwide aircraft firefighting business. They had loaned the plane to the RFS for these fires.
  10. I use something similar, but mine have a black powdercoated plate that the wire separators mount to. Think I got them at Summit Racing.
  11. The last 2 pictures are ones I had from some car shows, etc. Show the same thing
  12. My condenser is mounted to the rear of the radiator support and is extremely close to the radiator. Here are some drawings from my Vintage Air install that may help. You can see my condenser in the picture mounted from behind. It is so close to the radiator, that I had to modify the mounting bolts to keep the radiator from hitting (I have a larger radiator)
  13. I have a 1970 convertible with a 351W (393 stroker). I have an C-6 automatic. I chose Heddman Shorty Headers, which are powdercoated. This was to avoid interference under the car. It was a tight squeeze. I used adjustable motor mounts, which helped clear the steering box on the drivers side. I have custom exhaust that was fabricated by Latoracing (on the fourm). Mike can pipe in with details if you need them. The challenge with convertibles is to get the crossover pipe in, and then get the exhaust pipes routed in the space above the convertible re-inforcing plate under the car. We also decided to run the exhaust out through the rear valence, where Mike did his wizardry with sheet metal and exhaust routing. Came out cool. I used Magnaflow mufflers. I actually have not heard the car run with the Magnaflows, but it will be louder than most people like. I am sure you will get a lot of suggestions on the mufflers, there are so many choices available. The headers are really high quality and fit without any denting/hammering. I also used stage 8 locking bolts. The bolt locations are a bitch to get to, so be patient.
  14. Byron, I had the same thought, but kept the FiTech connectors. I ran them out the back of the engine, through the firewall. All of my tie-in connections are under the dash. I ran the fuel pump wire a country mile, through the firewall, under the dash, in the drivers sider fenderwell, then to my fuel command center. I avoided any in engine compartment wiring that I could, but it was work to run it through the fenderwells.
  15. The "exploding" gas tanks were an issue with gas tank venting. Not sure the tank armor is going to help that. There are numerous articles about how to properly vent the fuel tank on vintage mustangs. Installing a plate between the rear seat and trunk compartment would be much more effective. The Pinto gas tank crisis proved that. The "fires" were only really seen on a very limited number of rare cars....the Shelby GT 500. The Shelby's in 1969 and 1970 had a center exhaust outlet in the rear valence, which was directly below the fuel tank filler cap. From an early Ford article: Under certain running conditions, when the carburetor was set just right and there was a rapid backing off of the throttle, the engine could backfire. It was known as “pop back” and it was unique to the GT500’s 428 powerplants. On a couple of occasions, this pop back ignited the fuel vapor cloud and actually set the tail end of the car on fire! It was incredibly ironic that one advertising tag line for the 1969 Shelby was “fire, and refinement” but that was not the kind of fire either Ford or Shelby Automotive had in mind. The fix was to install nonvented fuel caps and replumb the fuel tanks so that they were vented via a hose that exited at the bottom of the rear quarter panel, away from the exhaust exit.
  16. All crazy stuff. I survived the '70s by keeping my head under the hood of a car, making a lot of friends. The friendship stopped when you dropped the clutch, and started again at the finish line.. No one checked your political affiliation, or social status. My former home state of NJ has gone mad. That's why I moved to North Carolina, it is like a return to simpler days. It's a shame. but a reality we all need to deal with. That's what is great about this forum. Car guys doing car guy stuff. Thank God for that.
  17. Ridge, you and Mike need to get together sometime......the skills needed to have the patience and vision to make these type of parts are not with us mere mortals.... nice work.....!!
  18. To answer your question, the body is exactly the same for the CJ and SCJ. I think there is probably an incremental increase in price for a SCJ, but there are many other factors that come into play. The bottom line is that if you have an original CJ or SCJ car, consider yourself lucky. Preserve it, love it, and drive the shit out of it.... If you need more info: https://www.428cobrajet.org/
  19. I used the Mustang Steve lower bearing set up on my 1970. I cut maybe 3/4" off of the steering column tubes. Also, on the 1970, there is the annoying shift-lock lever that I also cut off. I had to cut the tubes on the '70, because I ran out of adjustment room with my Borgeson steering box and the column bracket bolts. Be patient, this was a real trial and error process. I had my steering column in and out of the car at least 6 or 7 times. Picture attached of my 1970 install, note the rag joint is not installed correctly.. my bad. This is what happens when you do this stuff at 1 am.... For my 1968, which is more similar to the '69 install, I did not have to cut the column tubes, but I did put in a Delrin bushing at the end of the steering column. I did not like the alignment I had with the original setup, I thought this would be more stable. I looked on eBay for a bushing that was close in size, and drilled out the ID for the column shaft (1"), and for the OD to fit snugly (hammer fit) in the steering column inner tube. I used the 3 holes at 120 degrees apart to "stake" the busing in, by taking a large nail and punching the metal hole to a larger diameter which captured the Delrin bushing in place. I put a small amount of die-electric grease on the ID of the bushing, but it turns very freely by hand. PIcs below
  20. John, how much clearance do you have to the emergency brake on the drivers side with those speakers?
  21. Yeah, I am sure it is not a barren wasteland, but a desert/sunburnt country makes sense. I can see now how the fires can spread so fast. Flat land and wind... Anyway, be safe. I am currently up in Canada way north on Lake Huron. Grey skies and snow nearly every day. I could use a little sunburnt country... :)
  22. The AN fittings do take up a lot of room, the hose clamps are much more compact.
  23. Hey Shep, how are you making out with all of the fires down under? Hopefully none close to family and friends?
  24. Mike got the rest of the fuel line install done. Now headed to his shop in the next week or so to start the car for the first time with an intact fuel system, completed exhaust, and EFI system installed. Should be fun, will post the first start video …..
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