Vicfreg

Hi Hertz, Thanks for the info. What did you do to resolve the interference? Did you grind it off? I have lots of pictures, etc of my build. IM me anytime if you have questions. My car is in the stage where it is headed to paint, but my windows are not in yet.

Hey Mike, hope all is well with you and the family. I am headed to Carlisle Ford Week in June. Maybe we can meet there. Otherwise, would be great to get up there and see your car, or if you are up for a trip down to Charlotte, I can show you around the various NASCAR team shops, and you can check out my '68...the '70 will probably be in the shop. Vic

Oh, here is a picture of the Nu-Relic power window kit.

Back in action after work assignment in Canada, home in NC. Semi-retired, so will be spending some serious time on the car going forward. Secured my Nu-Relic power window kit. They were nearby, and I went to their shop to pick up the kit. I am doing all 4 windows, and will use one switch bank, mounted in my center console. I got a look at the manufacturing operation, and it was nice to see a locally owned business doing all the work in the US. Very impressed with the quality of the hardware, wiring harness, and switches. You can see the various options on their website (I have no affiliation with this company) Getting the 4 switch hardware mounted in the front of my console was a trial and error project. I have a couple console storage boxes, so I did the mock up on one of my spares. I purchased a small sheet of pebble grain ABS plastic, and I made some cardboard templates of the front of the console to get the fit as close as possible. I used my Dremel tool to cut the openings. The switch bank is a stock GM part, and it has a plug that attaches to all of the switch pins from the back. This was a tight squeeze, but after several iterations, I got it to fit. The other things in the console box are my remote trunk release button, a dual-USB outlet, and an LED dimmer used to dim my LED pushbuttons on the console. Now that I got the mockup done, I will dig into the real console, and take the "measure twice, cut once" approach.

I went to pick up my power window kit for my '70 convertible. These come highly recommended from local restoration shops. I have no affiliation with the supplier, had never been there before, but as it was driving distance, I decided to go over and pick up my window kit. What I found was a small family run business in a small town called East Bend, NC, population 620. It is located on the East Bend of the Yadkin River, near Winston Salem. The owner personally hooked me up with the right regulators, motors, and switch combination. I went back in the shop, and all of the steel parts are laser cut right there. All of the hardware was very high quality. I chose the billet switch option, which uses a chrome plated billet base for the 4-switch option I chose for my console. The kit uses brand new GM switches and harness connectors. So, if you are looking for an honest to god Made in the USA power window kit, check these guys out.

Hope your surgery goes well and you have a quick recovery. I get to Tuscon a few times a year. Brother in law over in Green Valley, my cousin lives east of town off of Catalina highway, headed toward Molino canyon.

I finally settled on the Ford motor sport T5Z, for my 1968 coupe. It is running a 340 HP roller cam 5.0, with a 373 traction-lok rear. The gear ratios are great for all kinds of driving, and in second and third gear the acceleration is incredible. The car weighs 3000 pounds

Well, that’s a good days work there! couple of things to consider, I’ve been involved in a couple conversions of this type. -The TKO 600 will probably not fit without modifying your transmission tunnel. The bolts on the top will not clear, nor will the top of the transmission. Modern driveline can fix this, they machine about a centimeter off the top of the transmission, and use different bolting hardware. See link below. Or you can try it and see how it works in your car. Even if you use lowered motor mounts, the problem will probably still exist. Perhaps some of the other form members can comment on their experience with the larger TKO - i’ve done two Borgeson conversions, they both work well. You will probably have to cut the end of your steering column to get it to meet up correctly with the new Borgeson box. It depends on the configuration of the one they supply you, they vary a little bit from the stock dimensions. - Take the opportunity while the column is out to replace the bearing that’s at the top of the steering column. It’s easy to do, it’s a stock, Ford part, all you need to do is pull off the turn signal switch to get at it. - Due to cutting the column, at the bottom of the steering column on the first conversion, I made a bushing to keep the steering column shaft centered in the column at the bottom. Now, Borgeson sells a bearing kit that you can attach to the bottom that is a much neater installation. On my second conversion, I used this, I had to modify that kit because I didn’t have enough room to get the whole bearing assembly in. I believe have some pictures of that if you want me to find, that might be happy to. - If your car had factory power steering, for the Borgeson conversion , you need to convert to the manual Steering center link and Pitman arm. These should be fairly easy to find. You need a huge socket and a big ass impact wrench to get the nut off the Pitman arm though. - And finally get a brand new Ragjoint - if you’re not considering a cable or hydraulic clutch conversion, you probably need to do that. Since you already have the pedal support out, that makes it easy, most cable clutch kits just attached directly to that . When you install headers on the new engine, with the Borgeson box, plus the Z bar linkage, there’s not gonna be a lot of room on the driver side of the engine compartment for the Z-bar clutch mechanism. - highly recommend going to a General Motors power steering pump. The operating pressure is much better, and they don’t leak. There are number of ways to mount that, which will work with the V belt or a serpentine belt conversion. - Also recommend running your power steering lines, either in the fender, well, or order the six-cylinder power steering lines from Borgeson, as they are longer. The ones supplied with the eight cylinder kit are long enough, but you have to mount them on your driver side, fender, well, and they’re really close to the Headers. On my first conversion, my power steering lines are wrapped in heat tape/insulation, to keep them from being melted by the Headers. I used Earls power steering hose and fittings on my 1970, and routed her the lines in the fenderwell , and it came out great, there’s pictures of the power steering line routing on my forum “1970 convertible”. - I installed a 351 Windsor (393 stroker) in my 1970 convertible. I always planned to use adjustable motor mounts, and that came in handy for my last install, because I needed to move the engine a little bit to the passenger side to avoid my Headers hitting the Borgeson box. It’s a really tight fit. - Borgeson set up needs a lot of camber to steer correctly. As most of us are running fairly wide tires in the front, you quickly run out of space to get the Camber you need before your tires interfere with the fenderwell. On my second conversion, I added different upper control arms that have a 3° offset that allows me to dial in the Camber I want. I know lots of info here, if you want to chat about this some evening, send me an IM and we can exchange phone numbers be happy to talk about it. Vic -https://www.moderndriveline.com/ .

I used the Lokar stuff, which is pricey, but super high quality and looks good..... and I wanted to also re-do the kickdown cable.

shop is looking really great MIke. I am semi-retiring end of January, so will be around this year. For sure headed to Carlisle this year and probably a couple regional Mustang Shows. Are you close to Richmond, or where, in Virginia?

Still working on my center console project. I actually have a brand new console that I will install all of this stuff on once I am done mocking it up on the old, original console. Getting close. Need to add a couple relays and that should be it. I will post schematic/block diagram when all done. I installed blue LEDs in the Phantom gauges. Looks good.

Hey Shemp, I used "Diagram A" on page 3 of the AAW wiring diagram. I cut the stock wiring and used the pins and flat GM connector that were supplied with my kit. Seems to work fine, I have tested my turn signal and emergency flasher functions and they work.

Hey Shemp. If you IM me with your email address, I will send along my spreadsheet. I will also try to collect some pictures and send to you. Might be a few days, I am currently in Canada and head back to North Carolina for the holidays. Early next week ok?

Hey Curtis. Let me take a look and get back to you. Is your car a ‘69 or ‘70? Make a difference because ignition switch is on the column in 1970 Look forward to seeing another Convertible install Do you have my AAW spreadsheet? If not I will send Vic

Oh, here is the website. I am not in any affiliated with this company. Billet Automotive Buttons - Design your own custom billet buttons 12v

Yeah, good winter project, will make this into a console wiring harness. More stuff to be added. Got the switches from a place in Australia. Hi quality, came with connectors, mounting nuts and even o-rings in case you are using on a boat I guess. They come in momentary, or "latching" configurations with one Normally Open Contact, and one Normally Closed Contact. Buttons are backlit. ABS buttons have LED halo and backlit symbols, SS buttons have LED halo. The text is laser etched. They have a lot of pre-etched choices already in their catalog, or you can specify a custom symbol and text. I mixed and matched to get what wanted. I also did 2 custom ones for my VHX Dash buttons. Another offering is a high amperage switch if you want to go directly to loads like fog lights. I use relays, so I did not get the high amperage version. Plus, they are longer, and I am short on room.

Started wiring the switches. Will be using some terminal blocks.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia. Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display. Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next for my interior lights

Getting close with my console build. These are 19mm pushbutton switches with blue halo led backlight. Plus, cupholder, of course…

Working on my console. Finalized my switch layout, Made my final templates, this is my production version. I want to order my switches this weekend, should have the council put together in a couple weeks with all the wiring. Installed my VHS clock on the passenger side dash assembly.

No, you are correct. I picked the 5.3" as it was the largest number. My catalog cut is identical to the information that you have above This picture gives you an idea of the difference in height from rear to front. This is on my engine stand, so not perfectly level.

Yep, it is a 7181 dual plane. My catalog cut says it is 5.3" high. I am not at home right now, so I can't really measure that for you. But, I recall the stock cast iron intake had a car spacer, so should not be a problem. Especially if you are not using a shaker hood. I used the 60229 heads, which have a smaller intake valve diameter. I did that as I have a 393 stroker kit installed and did not want to take a chance on the valve to piston clearance. I also have a vintage Ford/Shelby "C9X" intake that is higher than stock, they were used on stock Shelby's. For the EFI, the single plane may be a better option. You should check with the EFI manufacturer. On the dual plane the fuel can puddle on the plenum when the car is cold, requiring some fussing with your cold start/cold crank/fuel settings. I noticed you have a mechanical fuel pump installed. You should do an in tank EFI if possible now, while you have the chance. I kept my mechanical pump and used the FiTech fuel command center. I had to modify that to run a fuel return line back to the gas tank to keep the pump/housing cool.

Nice work!!

I can tell you from first had experience with my '70 convertible restoration that the structure is your #1 concern. There are many hidden surprises there. I would get the car to a condition where it is safe to drive and enjoy it. If you want fix it, be prepared to pay. Any decent shop will charge you $100 per hour for labor. So, 2 people working on your car for 20 hours will cost you $4,000. The best sheet metal/body/structure/fabrication person I know is up here in NC, not far from you, up Interstate 85. He is on the forum. His name is Mike goes by latoracing. if you are not in a rush, contact him, I know he has a few cars in his shop right now. He has detailed pictures of my '70 convertible rebuild. Always here if you have other '70 vert questions. Vic

I have FiTech on my 351W based 393 stroker. Only issue I had was to make sure I always had 12v to the EFI electronics. I have a trunk mounted battery and even with large cables had some voltage drop while cranking issues. I added a buck-boost controller and that solved the problem. I am running a Edelbrock Performer RPM intake with a Shaker hood. IMG_7174.MOV