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Everything posted by Vicfreg

  1. John, PM me your email, I will send you some pics
  2. This is great show and is easy to get to from many states. Carlisle Ford Nationals | Carlisle Events
  3. Did some final checks to make sure I don't need to drill any more holes in the body before the car goes to paint. I had to slightly open up the holes for the door handles with a hand file to get that damn sideways screw to clear and attach properly.
  4. Hey Mike, Happy New Year. We have about 2-3 inches of snow/sleet on the ground. But it's 29 degrees and we have lots of wind, so the real feel temperature is around 19 degrees. Good day to spend in the garage working on the car. I am actually pretty much out of stuff to do until I get the car to the painters. Looking forward to that. Assume you are in Virginia now? Hope the new house is working out. Carlisle Ford weekend is first week of June again. I was hoping to have the car ready by then, not sure I will make it.....
  5. The floor is screwed down to oak cross members. The amp cover is sourced from a Marine supplier, it is a hatch used on boats.
  6. That picture really shows it all. The drivers side exhaust needs to run in between the top, fixed bar (the black one) and the lower, movable bar (aluminum one). I didn't want to install a 4 link or Watts Link as you need to modify the trunk floor, and with a convertible, that trunk area interface is rare sheet metal and did not want to fuss with it.
  7. I had the same issue, and found a kit at Macs Auto Parts. I searched high and low.
  8. Paul, going back a bit to a mention in your post about "central locking". Can you explain what you did and post a few pictures. I am very interested in this. Thanks, Vic
  9. What kind of starter do you have. I have an AAW kit, and I am done with the install. Lots of info on my thread "1970 Convertible Restoration" - if you have a modern mini-starter, then you need to install a jumper between the solenoid and the starter. See attached for my starter, and starter wiring diagram. - Make sure you have a good ground at the starter. I ran a dedicated ground from the frame rail to the starter mounting bolt on the engine. - Check the wire #6 path to make sure there is continuity all the way to the starter solenoid. - Check your neutral safety switch wires (#5) to make sure they are connected properly and that the switch is working properly. Check to see if the wire is installed to the "S" connection on the starter solenoid (left one) - Check the ignition switch wires, 3A, 2B, 4AE to make sure the connections are good Hope this helps 555-10005.pdf starter power wiring.pdf
  10. I have a 8.8 in my '68 coupe. Mine is from a Ford Explorer. The center pumpkin on those is offset, but it works fine. On the 8.8, you need to buy new spring perches for that diameter axle. Cut the old ones off, and also all the other brackets/attachments, as they get in the way. Take your old rear and the new rear lay them side by side. Measure the distance between the centerline of the perches on your old rear. Find the center of the 8.8 and mark it. Take 1/2 the perch to perch distance from the old rear and mark the centerline of the new perches on the 8.8. Go to your car, and double check the distance between your leaf springs. Check the distance from your backing plates to the center of the perches on the 8.8 to see if they are roughly even. Before you weld the new perches on, rotate the 8.8 to match the pinion angle of the old rear. I measured the angle as close as I could with one of those protractor/angle tools. Another thing you need to decide is what brakes you want to run on the new 8.8 rear. Now is the time to address that. Also, check the axle seals to make sure they are not leaking, and change the rear end fluid. Most of the 8.8 traction locks use a friction additive. Last thing is that you will need to modify your driveshaft length, and also the attachment at the rear end. The 8.8s use a different style, flat plate mount with those annoying metric multi point bolts. I am very happy with my 8.8 set up. Cost me less than $500 to get a 3.73 posi installed in my car.
  11. I have one in my '68, not too bad. Mustangs to Fear has one for '68, I understand it can be modified for the later cars. I also did it the hard way.....
  12. Literature Track Bar = Panhard Bar 7903-PHLM10.pdf PHL_DS_WEB.pdf 1970_TA_Mustang_Suspension.pdf
  13. I have one on both of my cars. The original Boss 302 suspension book has the details on how to make one. I used Chris Alston Chassisworks stuff, and I like it. It is adjustable. The panhard bar keeps the axle centered under cornering, similar to a Watts Link. I think it feels more stable. Some pics of mine attached. Some literature attached.
  14. I called Eddie's. I got some clarification on the mounting hardware. It comes with 5/16" button head bolts and both flat and "AN" washers. The hood hinge mounting base has slots cut in it to allow up and down adjustment, and some rotational adjustment. The slots are not the same width. There are 2 bolt holes that have narrower slots than the 3rd one. I had flat washers in all three places. This prevented me from getting any out of plane movement (other than up and down). I put the AN washers in 2 places and the flat washer in the 3rd. This gave me some "wiggle" with the hinge, and allowed me to get them to lay flat.
  15. Update on the 'Vert project. Had the painters come by and take a look at the car, so it looks like I am finally going to get the car painted. So, I am working off a list of some mini projects that I can do now that will save me from doing later. Got out my dash panel and mounted my Dakota Digital/VHX stuff. Fit nicely. Plugged in the ethernet wire and started the car, and the dash went live. Yay! I don't have the dash insert installed. It is going to be painted, not woodgrain.
  16. The flasher is specific to the taillights. I tried to use a generic led flasher, but it did not work in a sequential manner. So, my guess is you need to contact the original manufacturer and get a new flasher
  17. For sure not for a convertible, it has very unique hinges with only one torsion bar. I think the fast backs have bolt on hinges and you can get Billet ones
  18. I haven’t contacted them yet I was going to try to get some feedback from the members here first
  19. Anyone have any experience with installing these type of hinges before. These are from Eddie Motorsports They don’t seem to lay flat when completely in the “ down” position
  20. Hey Rich, Happy New Year also!! I got the tail light kit from a company called the "Mustang Project". I am happy with it, easy install, also have it on my '68 coupe. I tested it this past weekend, and they work and look great. You will need a LED flasher relay for your emergency flashers, and they supply the turn signal one that is used to interface with their taillights. It is plug and play. Mustang Project - Discount Mustang Restoration Parts LED Tail Lights 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 Dodge Mustang Camaro Parts I am happy so far with my fiberglass base. I have not been driving the car, though, waiting on the painters. I added 2 braces/brackets that are attached to the intake manifold, so it seems pretty sturdy, but time will tell. When I was at Carlisle last year, I was on a mission to talk to owners about their shaker setups, and many were running the fiberglass and were happy with it. Was going to ask you about any lessons learned/suggestions on installing the honeycomb tail light panel. I have a template, but always want to measure twice and drill once.. My car did not come from the factory with the panel...
  21. Catching up on some mini projects while I’m home for the holidays. I have my LED tail light assembly‘s together, and did some quick checks of my tail light wiring harness, and connections, to make sure everything was working OK. everything seems to be working well, I just need to get an LED flasher, to check out my sequential tail lights. You will probably notice my powder coated tail light housings, that’s keeping with my all black trim theme. Should be pretty cool.
  22. That's pretty cool, a Continental Kit, on what looks like a '69 Fairlane, Aussie Style.....
  23. Right.... just like a fine wine, it gets better with time...
  24. I push the yoke all the way in, and make a mark on the yoke at the rear of the transmission. Then, pull it out 1" and mark the yoke again for reference. Ask the person who is going to make your driveshaft how they want it to be measured. Typically, it is from centerline to centerline of the u-joints. A CRITICAL step is to make sure the weight of the car is on the rear suspension when you do the measuring.
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