Mach1 Driver

You can't go wrong with National Part Depot, and Virginia Mustang gets a lot of kudos. CJ often gets negative comments. Summit  and Jegs can be ok.

Welcome, and we would love to help you spend your money. As you probably know, the suspension on our cars is from a Falcon, but with the right tweaks you can make it feel like a new car without breaking the bank.
Everyone will have their own opinions, but I would do the following:
1. Definitely do the Shelby/Arning drop- the most it can cost is the price of a drill template. It only drops the front about 5/8" but will really make a difference in handling.
2. Stock style upper and lower control arms, and if you can afford it go with a spherical bearing on the lower. Watch the Open Tracker Racing video, or check Street or Track- they are good people that won't try to over sell you. Just tell them what you want the car to do.
3. Roller spring perches will do wonders to free-up the front suspension. I would do the single, not the double roller perch- see the OTR video.
4. Adjustable strut rods. The video will show you how the stock struts behave with all that flexing and forward/back motion. I didn't include it but there is another video showing the improvement which eliminated all that. Multiple vendors make these, here is one: https://streetortrack.com/street-or-track-adjustable-strut-rods
5. Coil and leaf springs- see the Eaton video by Jeff Ford
6. I would go with QA1 or Viking hydraulic shocks (not gas shocks)- also discussed in the Eaton and OTR Videos.
 
 
You may want to get the Boss 302 Chassis Modification booklet. It talks about the Arning drop and lots of other mods that are just for racing (not my thing). The shock towers tend to bend inward, so you'll need an export brace, something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz16a052e#overview. Many people also put in a Monte Carlo bar that goes from side to side, just in front of the shock towers, but I don't think you need it with the export brace and weld-in kits mentioned below.
And the weld-in kit will keep your towers from stress cracking: https://opentrackerracing.com/product/shock-tower-repair-reinforcement-kit-1967-1970/
There are several videos by Eaton discussing springs and shocks- here is one:
 

Not that this helps much, but it could be this:

Just click on the icon in post #1 and you can download it yourself. Welcome to the site.

Not that this helps much, but it could be this:

That may be a question for Dave Kindig :)

Well its obviously electrical. The starter clicks, so power is getting to the solenoid coil. Check the cables: battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to block. 
If its a PMGR, this is how its usually done (not my drawing). It only shows the big terminals, the wires to the smaller terminals remain the same:

Either a stamping mistake or the car had a vin swap.
 
we came across a guy they bought a 71 mach 1 that had the vin plate on the dash that was from a station wagon.
he didn’t know the difference and the poor guy was showing off his newly acquired toy and we burst his bubble.
he had the car inspected by the police and they found the original vin on the car and it was stolen, and they took the car

Just don't get that lizard skin on your hootus. 
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/how-do-i-get-herculiner-off-of-my-hootus.18595/

Yeah I was wondering how many dents had to be removed from the roof of that Camaro. I am waiting for a reply from LizardSkin to find out if it is hydroscopic and how to remove it if repairs are required.
Edit, I got a quick response:
Once the coating is dry, it has to be submerged in water for 24+ hours to absorb any considerable amount water. It won’t absorb humidity or anything like that. If it does become submerged for prolonged periods, the water can damage the coating’s integrity, but it just depends on the situation and you’d have to see how the coating is holding up after a few days dry time.
If it has to be removed, a grinding wheel is the easiest way to do so. If some does need to be taken off and replaced after the work is done, it can be sprayed back on to the surface as long as it is primed (for steel surfaces) and clean of any dust/debris. You can just slightly overlap with the existing coating to try to make it as seamless as possible.
Hope this answers your questions, please let me know if there is anything else we can help with. Thanks so much.

I was worried that I would run into issues like 69 RUSTBACK had. Ridge is helping me out tremendously and is going to be shipping a pair to Iowa. I can't wait to get them here and start working. 

Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. 
Lizard skin was my other choice,  but i think it would just get too messy for me.
I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. 
now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol 
 
 

https://www.roadkillcustoms.com/wheel-bolt-pattern-cross-reference/5x4.5-wheel-bolt-pattern-5x114.3mm-5x4.50-inches/
Go this off the old interweb. You can search by bolt pattern and see what vehicles use it. Might be a little outdated as the newest vehicle I see is '08.

Thank you! I've been looking everywhere online and could not find anything. 

I just saw this and haven't tried them, and they are exceedingly expensive, but get this: 
Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB125

I think we've been focusing on the spare being in the boot. I have the solution!

this is from a post by Woodchuck;

this is from a post by Woodchuck;

the most original appearing aftermarket deluxe door panel for a 69/70 mustang used to come from virginia mustang and had a white plastic backing. i would sometimes need to bend the upper edge in some that the window felt stapled to, to get the right angle.
tmi has the best sewing because their lines are always straight.
american cushion industries has the most accurate seat foam in the world bar none.
if you want concourse quality interior, you can buy the original material and give it to tmi and they will sew it up for you for the same price they charge for their seat covers complete.

Don't mix songs...have Sympathy for the Devil.
 

thank you.
see below link to the connector.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aww-500666
 

For the first time in 3 yrs the car is back in terra firms, slowly putting it back together - just trying to find all those bits you think you saved/took off,  but can’t find in the myriad of boxes…

Yes; that is my spare though :p 

Well I completed the Shelby drop and I'm very happy with the outcome. Big improvement in handling and just a poofteenth lower. It was really quite a simple job.
As some background, I rebuilt the front end 5 years ago and replaced everything. After about a year it developed a clunk over bumps which I couldn't locate. This prompted me to do the drop and have a good look for the source of the clunk. It became obvous very quickly. One of the new Scott Drake shocks had failed leaking fluid over the rubbers which destroyed them leaving them metal to metal. As annoyed as I was that new shocks failed I was happy to find my problem.
I bought a new set of Gabriel shocks thinking they were a reasonable brand. As I took one out of the box it wasn't fully extended. As I moved it, it shot the centre out exploding oil everywhere. It filled my eyes, covered everything including the ceiling, cars and colectables. After I realised my eyes didn't hurt, I cleaned myself up and everything else. I complained to the vendor and recieved a full refund and $250 for my trouble. I have since bought Pedders shocks and I'm very happy with them. FYI, I now know Grabiel are cheap Chinese crap and I'll never go near them again.