Mach1 Driver

That may be a question for Dave Kindig :)

Well its obviously electrical. The starter clicks, so power is getting to the solenoid coil. Check the cables: battery to solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to block. If its a PMGR, this is how its usually done (not my drawing). It only shows the big terminals, the wires to the smaller terminals remain the same:

Common mistake for anyone, but you may want to check the dates before answering... it was seven years ago.

Yeah I was wondering how many dents had to be removed from the roof of that Camaro. I am waiting for a reply from LizardSkin to find out if it is hydroscopic and how to remove it if repairs are required. Edit, I got a quick response: Once the coating is dry, it has to be submerged in water for 24+ hours to absorb any considerable amount water. It won’t absorb humidity or anything like that. If it does become submerged for prolonged periods, the water can damage the coating’s integrity, but it just depends on the situation and you’d have to see how the coating is holding up after a few days dry time. If it has to be removed, a grinding wheel is the easiest way to do so. If some does need to be taken off and replaced after the work is done, it can be sprayed back on to the surface as long as it is primed (for steel surfaces) and clean of any dust/debris. You can just slightly overlap with the existing coating to try to make it as seamless as possible. Hope this answers your questions, please let me know if there is anything else we can help with. Thanks so much.

Since cleanup after applying Lizardskin is with water, it must be hydroscopic and if it gets wet I would think it would promote rust, not block it. That's probably the reason they say that rust must be removed and Lizardskin applied over a protective primer. I guess the logical question is; if required, how would you remove Lizardskin? I don't see any information on how that is done.

I couldn't give you a number but your results don't seem shocking. The brake light circuit starts at the headlight switch, goes through the brake switch, through the turn signal switch, through a plug and to the brake light filament which is more than four times the load of the tail light filament. I expect less voltage there. The tail lights start at the headlight switch, and only go through one plug and as I said the filament draws less than 1/4 the amps.

From Shop Manual

from Body Illustrations

Yeah, looks like they want to pay off the R&D all at once. Well, its a start, and eventually they will come down...some.

I just saw this and haven't tried them, and they are exceedingly expensive, but get this: Compliant - No-glare beam pattern meets or exceeds SAE and DOT Requirements https://www.holley.com/products/exterior/lighting/headlight/round_headlights/parts/LFRB125

this is from a post by Woodchuck;

Well lookie there! We haven't seen Mike around in a while. What's new barnett?

Don't mix songs...have Sympathy for the Devil.

Buckeye, two awesome builds! On the Mach, page 23 you mention the weather pack firewall connector. Do you know the manufacturer and or part number? None of my searches have turned up that connector as seen on page 22. All I've seen are round and awkward looking. Thanks in advance, this build has a reputation as the bible for 69s ;)

I suggest you read this for a better understanding of the circuit:

Past Time, just out of curiosity have you modified your ignition system so the coil is running at 12v instead of through the pink resistor wire? That will cause the tach to read high.

the search function isn't the best so use this link: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/53388-mach-1-upholstery/?hl=upholstery

I did an "Aurora conversion" to make my original AM/8 track into AM/FM/8 track/ Blue tooth, have an AUX input, and USB input, you can talk to it and it talks back, and some other things I'm missing...like power antenna output, more power etc. Just Google "Aurora conversion" and you'll find lots of places that do it. Shop around and get references. I sent mine to a place in Prescott AZ that had it for over a year. The work was OK, but I wouldn't recommend him to anyone.

At what location is the last picture, and what are we looking at? Nicely done by the way- I like your organization.

Impressive Ridge, and here is an Ebay pic for #6

Anything 30ga or larger is good.

0.22A per gauge on high. There are only two gauges on a tach car, and three on a non-tach car. A 30ga wire would handle 0.8a

Come on Mid, give him a hint.

It appears to be surface rust to me, that isn't even as deep as the spotweld marks around it.

That's a little creepy, but it reminds me of this: