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Found 4 results

  1. I have a 1969 GT, with an alternator warning light located next to the oil warning light. The alternator warning light should be light when the ignition switch is in the accessory position or in the run position with the engine off. It does not light in either case. I have checked the bulb and it is OK. System charges fine at 14.4 volts. I believe i have an electronic voltage regulator rather than the old electro-mechanical style. Can anyone tell me what is wrong or what tests I can run? Thanks so much for any help. Mark
  2. need help with connecting a new 69 mach 1 alternator wiring harness. i bought the one with tach since i have a tach car however my old plug has 4 prong plug but one is blank. can someone send a pic of the connections on both ends? https://www.cjponyparts.com/WALT5B/p/WALT5B/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=dc8f286e-8eb0-e811-80fa-0050568938fc
  3. Guys, I had an alternator belt go wimpy on me recently, I went to tighten it up, and it was a reminder that I don't really have a great method for getting some good tension in the belt. I have a 302, Alternator on the passenger side, and it seems like there is just not a good way to really pry & hold the alternator in position to get the belt nice and snug. I tried a large prybar against the engine, but this time I would up cutting a small hole in the heater hose (pinched against structure) which was a pain to have to fix. The power steering unit has a nice lip on the housing that allows you to use a regular screw driver to pull up on the housing and get plenty of leverage to tighten that belt. Anybody got a cool tool for this, or a tip for how to get good leverage on the alternator housing while still having a free hand to tighten the bolts to hold it in place? Seems like such a basic thing, but I couldn't find any tips using a search of this forum. Let me know of your best advice on this. Pictures encouraged as always. Jay
  4. Today I started installing a 130amp 3g alternator with the 7" ear spacing. I read everything I could before starting and thought it would be a drop in with some straight forward wiring. Here is my $.02 for those with a '69 and with a 351w. These cars have different alternator brackets from all other years I understand. You WILL need to fabricate an intermediary bracket for the lower mount. The 3g case (specifically the 8mm bolt) interferes with the cylinder head alternator mount bolt, the one on the right side. It interferes to much for an easy fix. This means that the alternator can't swing far enough towards the lower bracket for the bolts to go in (even though the spacing is correct). This also means your old belt won't work either. I'll save you time and let you know that the intermediary bracket should have its holes 3" apart center to center, and it should be thick steel like the factory brackets (~3/8" thick I believe). You will need to either make or find a spacer to take up the extra depth created by the intermediary bracket to keep the pulley straight. My last advice: don't bother messing with clocking the alternator case differently for 2 reasons. It's difficult to do (I gave up after doing exactly what I read other people did) AND you can break the aluminum case. It's nearly impossible to do without marring up the aluminum. One more reason not to bother is that if you do need to get a new one for a late model at the regular part store, your wiring would be setup for how you clocked it and not how they are when you buy one. Hope this saves someone some time!
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