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About rittenrotton

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  1. Thanks S69Mach I have read about the contour fans but will it fit? Also what fan controller would you use?
  2. To make a long story short, I'm trying to convert my cooling system to electric cooling fans. I live in the NYC area with lots of traffic and the offset 16" electric fan (without a shroud) is just not enough. I have a 302 with a champion 3 row radiator and a dual fan fan shroud (thinking that there wasn't enough clearance between a 16" fan with a fan shroud. This weekend I tried fitting (unsuccessfully) two spal 30102800 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102800?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpbbbjPTb6gIVSZyzCh0-9g07EAAYASAAEgKJgvD_BwE) but unfortunately they were still too thick. I know they make thinner fans but the thinner ones don't seem to put out much CFMs. I'm just wondering what my options are and if anyone else has had any success running high cfm dual fans and for recommendations.
  3. SO after calling my efi manufacturer, it turns out I needed carb spacer with pcv port as it was not getting enough vacuum from the air cleaner. But now I noticed that my oil pressure is at 35 psi when I am driving but when I come to a stop, the pressure drops down to 5 psi. I assume this isn't good, am I wrong?
  4. Can I only use ssbc pads and rotors or is there another brand that is compatible with SSBC brake kits?
  5. A long time ago I converted my front brakes to disc brakes using the ssbc kit. Well the time has come to replace my pads and rotors but as we know ssbc is out of business. I seen in the storm that people suggest Mustang Steve to update them with brakes from a newer Mustang. But I'm just wondering is there anyway that I can keep the original parts from ssbc and replace the pads and rotors from another brand/company or do I have to replace everything? (Like raybetos, powerstop, etc)
  6. So I feel like a bit of a fool. How's your day going in Tuesday / I realize that I had a bad flasher and I didn't have the correct fuse installed. But thank you all for your help and suggestions, I really appreciate it
  7. Awesome, I'll go check it out. Thank you!
  8. I did but I feel like I need a wiring diagram for the ts to know exactly which wire is for which. I figured out the wires/connections for both horn wires, brake lights, Hazzard switch but it's the rest that I'm kind of lost. I tried guessing based on the wire colors on the camber of the ts switch but I obviously didn't get it right.
  9. I'll give it a try and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion!
  10. I can't really see the exact spot as the steering wheel blocks my view but it looks like it coming from the area near the Hazzard switch.
  11. Need some help...i rewired my 1970 coupe with the American Autowire kit about a year ago and recently replaced my turn signal switch with a new one from CJ pony parts; the problem is that the wire colors on the new turn signal switch don't match the OEM turn signal switch. (Yes, it is the correct switch for my 70, non tilt steering wheel). Everything works with the exception of the blinkers (but hazzards work). The other issue I'm experiencing is a short with the brake lights. With the turn signal switch installed and steering wheel removed, the brake lights work perfect. But when I install/attach the steering wheel, the brake lights short out. I can actually see the Sparks whenever I rotate the steering wheel. Any help solving these issues would be greatly appreciated!
  12. I have a 70 coupe that is having an issue with the turn signals and brake lights. Long story short, I rewired the car about a year ago with American Autowire and the car was without issues. Then suddenly my brake light fuse started blowing and then my turn signals stopped working. I'm aware it could be a short and when I spoke to american autowire, they advised me to replace my turn signal switch as well as my led flasher (as I have digi-tail led tailights). But after replacing the turn signal switch and flasher, my taillights stay on and don't flash and my horn doesn't work but the strange part is that my hazards work. .
  13. Sorry for the delay in my response, my wife just gave birth to my 2nd daughter. Barnett468 - I have 225/45ZR17 on all 4 wheels; the car felt better after the Shelby drop but still had terrible bump steer before I changed the steering components. I thought by replacing all the worn out steering components (which where original) the car would handle better. I definetly did not match the lengths of the new tie rods to the old ones. There was very little play in the steering wheel; it's a little difficult to describe the problem but I think the best way to describe it, is that the steering wheel doesn't seem to match the tires. Almost like the feeling that the wheels aren't going the same direction. Before the alginment, you could see the camber was not right (as you could see the wheels were at a slight tilted angle) and the wheels were definitely not matching the same direction. I would of taken it to a shop like ETD Tire or a national chain but it was not safe driving the car the way it was. I' located in the Bronx in NYC; there is a 100 little independent shops that do alignments.. I'm sure I could of asked for the documentation but I wasn't aware that there was such a thing.exisits. Would the specs really help to understand what a potential issue could be? After I wrote this post, I contacted Borgeson about my issue and their tech believes that my steering box was not centered before I attached the pitman arm and connected it to the center link. I was in the process of seeing if this was the issue but unfortunately I didn't get the chance to complete this yet and take it on a test drive. In a few weeks, i hope to see if this is the issue.
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