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rittenrotton

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About rittenrotton

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  1. Sorry for the delay in my response, my wife just gave birth to my 2nd daughter. Barnett468 - I have 225/45ZR17 on all 4 wheels; the car felt better after the Shelby drop but still had terrible bump steer before I changed the steering components. I thought by replacing all the worn out steering components (which where original) the car would handle better. I definetly did not match the lengths of the new tie rods to the old ones. There was very little play in the steering wheel; it's a little difficult to describe the problem but I think the best way to describe it, is that the steering wheel doesn't seem to match the tires. Almost like the feeling that the wheels aren't going the same direction. Before the alginment, you could see the camber was not right (as you could see the wheels were at a slight tilted angle) and the wheels were definitely not matching the same direction. I would of taken it to a shop like ETD Tire or a national chain but it was not safe driving the car the way it was. I' located in the Bronx in NYC; there is a 100 little independent shops that do alignments.. I'm sure I could of asked for the documentation but I wasn't aware that there was such a thing.exisits. Would the specs really help to understand what a potential issue could be? After I wrote this post, I contacted Borgeson about my issue and their tech believes that my steering box was not centered before I attached the pitman arm and connected it to the center link. I was in the process of seeing if this was the issue but unfortunately I didn't get the chance to complete this yet and take it on a test drive. In a few weeks, i hope to see if this is the issue.
  2. Unfortunately they did not give me the specs
  3. So I just fished upgrading to a borgenson power steering Box, hoses & Saginaw Power Steering pump as well as doing a shelby drop. I also replaced the upper control arms., idler arm, both outer tie rods and tie rod sleeves. I just got an alignment done this morning, but the car doesn't feel right. It just feels like there's no control at any speed above 10 mph, like the steering is just loose. I started with the shelby drop and the car drove fine. with the exception that the car just had terrible bump steer and was pretty sloppy at highway speeds. So that's when I decided to replace all the steering components and here I am. I checked that all the castle nuts are in tight with the cotter pin and that the steering coupler isn't loose. I know its hard to determine the cause without seeing the car in person or driving it for yourself. But what could be the best way to determine the cause? Thanks in advance for any help!
  4. So 2 questions...how do I remove the steering column as a flange is preventing me from pulling it through the firewall. Secondly, is there a way to remove the steering box without removing the headers or brake booster & reservoir?
  5. aslanefe Thanks, I spoke to CJPony parts who told me I could use the stock ford pump but from what I've read on here you need a strong pump, like the GM style pump. I purchased the adapter. Also, is there a difference between the power steering vs manual center link (other than 1 additional hole for the power steering slave cylinder)?
  6. Ok, so I did the Shelby drop; replaced the upper control arms, ball joints, the coil spring saddles and notice a big improvement of the suspension but the handling was horrible. So now I'm replacing all of the steering components (as most of it is original). I also noticed that my slave cylinder is leaking and the control valve is somehow missing a chunk of metal from the end cap. I just watched an episode of roadkill where David Freiburger just replaced the slave cylinder, control valve and steering box with the borgeson steering box, which I'm going to do as well. Not just because I saw it on TV but from what I've read the Borgeson steering box makes a big difference in steering feel and response. Then once all this is done, I'm going to try doing an alignment myself or maybe bring it to a alignment shop. So we shall see how the handling and wheel response is. I hope better lol Barnett -. I have a Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/45Z17's mounted on 17x7 American Racing Torq-Thrust M
  7. ok, I'll give that a try. Thank you for the suggestion!
  8. No, unfortunately they won't fit. The hole towards the front is off by a few hairs. I used a cutting wheel and cut off the upper control arm shaft (as I couldn't get nuts off and was replacing it anyway) and test fit it only to discover my problem.
  9. So I decided to try the Shelby drop using a template I bought from daze cars. Once I got all the suspension removed and installed the template, I started with a 17/32-inch bit and drilled the initial hole (but thinking back on it now I guess my mistake was removing removing the template which I did thinking in I would have the same size template holes for the other side.) After drilling the 1/2" holes, i found out that they are not aligned correctly. They are just a tiny bit too apart from each other. I'm just curious what I can do to correct this without making a bigger mess? Should I drill one of the holes out to be 9/16"? Or should I just go with control arms like Specialty Products Company Adjustable Control Arms which give the Shelby drop from the factory holes? https://www.cjponyparts.com/specialty-products-company-adjustable-upper-control-arm-1967-1973/p/UCA61/
  10. Ok, I might look into the shelby drop. I will also change all the bushings in the ball joints and perches.
  11. Thank you all for your help. I am sure it has something to do with the difference in the new wheels and tires vs original, as I haven't really touched the suspension. What's the best way to measure/correct the bump steer? Should I get a Baer Bumpsteer Kit as well as a bump steer gauge?
  12. I have a 70 coupe with a 302 and I'm having some issues with the steering. At low speeds on the street the car is great, but on the highway, the car just handles poorly. It's just seems a battle to keep it traight when it I hit bumps or grooves. I've tried searching for causes and solutions but I little lost as this is all new to me. I have all original suspension with the exception of new springs, shocks and a new bushings. I have upgraded the wheels and tires with American muscle 17x7. What am I missing? How can I improve my handling while on the highways? Would a bump steer kit help? Thanks!
  13. Thank you so much for all your help and suggestions! I will check my timing to see where its set to and if it can be advanced. I just might go with the NGK platinum plugs. I see there are a few different levels/types///Which one did you all go with? Iridium? G-power?
  14. I have a 70 coupe with a ford racing crate 306, aluminium heads, MSD 6al, and efi...I need to replace my plugs and wires and was looking for recommendations. My motor seems to be running a little hot (based on the plugs I have). I was considering e3 plugs but I've seen a lot of negative reviews, but then a friend recommended platinum plugs but I've heard they aren't as good as copper..Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  15. I can't speak to the size of the Mustangs to Fear Bezel but I bought a speedhut speedometer and the size that fits in the factory bezel is 4-1/2" Speedometer. I purchased the speedhut item# GR4.5-SPEEDO-03 and it fit perfectly with no issues.
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