barnett468

the best bumper is a rechromed original. all the repos are around 1/2" too long so they stick out beyond the body on both sides and look like crap.

take the intake off . i have never staked a heli coil and have never had one back out and if you use loctite it can seep thru to the inside of the threads which is not a good thing at all.
 
use bolts with good threads whenever using a helicoil. put regular oil on the bolt threads before installing it.
 
 
 
 

ok, what is the red car in the corner with the hood up hmmm?

Our generic hardware store paint thinner is just one type and won't damage old school paint jobs but it can affect the paint jobs on newer cars as I have had the displeasure of finding out.

also, if it is not a budget paint job, make certain that he paints the bejesus out of the underside of the rockers and quarter panels etc. many painters don't do this so the paint is thin and dry looking on the lower portion of the car and looks totally crappy on the undersides.
 

hedman elite mid length should fit but contact them to verify.

duhhh...oops . i just looked at the dates and figured it was a new poster, lol.
 
 

steel gears can only used on a factory roller cam . you can also use composite or melonized gears. if it is a billet steel roller you must use bronze, composite or melonized gear . the melonized gear is compatible with all cam materials contrary to what some "expert" magazine writers say . crane makes the best melonized gear i know of but they don't fit all distributor shaft sizes because shaft size varies from mfg to mfg . isnt that nice.

that is not what they say if you call them and ask one of their engineers about it. yes, many get away with using the pink wire but you definitely are far better off bypassing it. its that simple .
 
 

a 16 oz spray bottle with a little liquid dish washing soap mixed in works fine. that gel can sometimes be difficult to work with. many of the pros install them dry.

Did you bypass the pink ignition wire?

Yup, it is sometimes best to leave things as designed because "new" is not always better.

Oh, one more thing.....  my last post on this thread...
Installed my brake pedal that I got from Master Power Brakes.  It uses the “dropped” eye brake pushrod that is typically on the ‘69s.  But they supply both.   Everything fit perfectly

Continued mocking up my brake tubes with the steel brake lines.   Got them bent and installed the master cylinder.   I used the Ford Ranger master cylinder body, and the Mustang reservoir with my Master Power Brakes proportioning valve mounted underneath.   I am also going to use an in-line, pressure actuated brake light switch, so I routed those lines from the front brake line outlet.  
Looks like that arrangement will work nicely.  I will now re bend all of these lines in their final configuration, making sure they are not over bent, scratched, dented, etc, and mount my brass tee and brake light switch securely.  Then bench bleed the master cylinder, and call that part done.  I also need to hook up my rear brake line, but that is the easy one.
You can follow the "rest of the story" on my project thread...  "1970 Convertible Restoration"

nobody. i typically buy good used ones or nos ones. it's just one of the many pleasures of owning a vintage car.
 
heres a couple
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1967-70-Mustang-Left-Hood-Hinge-C9ZZ-16797-A/162903146490?epid=1255153693&hash=item25edc8bffa:g:av8AAOSw5ZtahZ8k&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1967-70-Mustang-Left-Hood-Hinge-C9ZZ-16797-A-/122642004178

lol.
it is not ideal and the results are not the prettiest, but one must do what one must do sometimes. you need to determine if the rubber on the front edge of the door is causing the problem or if it is the one on the rear.
nos rubbers are probably over $600.00 if you can find them.

On my 69 I am running a booster from TuffStuff. I went that way because I wanted to use a willwood MC and it was interfering with the tower. The tuffstuff booster is basically the same one used for the boss 429 just not concourse correct.
feels the same as the original booster and works great. Bought from summit and was cheaper than getting a rebuilt exchange unit

you need to have your heads cc'd. chris straub is one of the best cam grinders in the business.
straubtechnologies.com

It's simple. The numerically higher the gear ratio, the louder they will be because the faster they are turning. Even a 2.80 ratio whines a little at freeway speeds, however, because it does not whine loudly, and it is insulated from the car by the body and interior and the whine is overpowered by general road noise and engine noise etc, it is impossible to hear unless the gears are bad etc.

235/60-15 will be the widest you can put on the front without them hitting slightly under some conditions.
 
 

if the stripes dont say 3m or scotch on the back i wouldnt use them . i get mine direct from phoenix graphics.
 

A billet torque converter for a street car?

don't know about the drake shocks buy why dont you just buy the gas kyb's?

The spacer needs to be around 3/4" shorter than the seat bolts so there is enough bolt protruding thru the bottom of the floor to get a nut on. I just looked at my spare 69 seat to see how long the bolt is and there re no tracks on it, lol. The 64 thru 68 seats have fairly long bolts. The spacer just sliders over the bolts. Yes the bolts may be tack welded to the track but I don't remember for sure but if so a small cut off tool etc will cut the weld so longer ones can be installed but they need to have a short head so I think I used carriage bolts before then ground two opposing sides down so they were narrow enough to fit in the track.
Another possible option is to use seat extenders. These also allow the seat to be repositioned further forward or rearward depending on how they are installed. Cost is around $80.00.

 
 
These are the spacers. You can also use machine shaft collars. Some real hardware stores have them in the small specialty item boxes.

Several of these will also be required to do the job properly
 

 
 
 
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According to my Mustang by the Numbers book by Kevin Marti:
There were 128,451 coupes built    (118,610 65A;      5,208 65B;       4,128 65C;   505 65D)
There were 25, 740 coupes built with a 250 -I6
There were 40,150 coupes built with AC.
------------------------------------------------------------------
So about 31.25% of coupes had AC -- Taking 31.25% of the 250-I6's would be about 8,045 cars.
It's probably less than that since folks buying a I-6 were probably not as spendy as the V8 buyers and didn't get expensive options, so it's maybe as rare as the GT package (6,694 built)?
However, the survival rate is probably small today, given the lack of respect for sixes and their parts over the years, so in 2017 it's probably a pretty hard-to-find setup. (I'm not sure how the I-6 A/C setup would have varied from the 302 small block, if at all)
Yes, I'm a geek who likes crunching numbers :)
 
BTW, there were 33,191 Fastbacks built with the 250 engine - 96 were the E Package