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ralt962 last won the day on March 21 2018

ralt962 had the most liked content!

About ralt962

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    SE Michigan

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  1. I agree. I replaced my pass side mirror. Just the glass. He had a great video. Cost was just $16. Or he has the entire mechanism.
  2. I went with a set of Roush Aluminum heads. Work great. Good power in all ranges. Need to go with a roller rocker with these. But its something I would have done regardless.
  3. From the kit I saw it looked like the flex lines are in the kit. But I have seen the lines also sold separately. There must be different kits? I was looking at CJ's https://www.cjponyparts.com/wilwood-front-disc-brake-kit-dynalite-4-piston-11-3-v8-spindles-1965-1966-1967-1969/p/DBF200-V/
  4. Sounds elementary, but oil level. If you are low and running a higher idle, it will bang into gear.
  5. Very nice looking set up . Thanks, I'll look into those and lankys suggestion above.
  6. Anyone out there have experience converting to Wilwood disc brakes in the front? I have drums all around. When I built the car I added power brakes with a new 1" master cylinder. I'll have to add the proportioning valve. Any other recommendations?
  7. Did you check the alternator arm relative to the crank pulley? I did that. Have an aftermarket chrome set of brackets. Just the clearance in the hole allowed the bracket to rub on the crank pulley but only in one spot. Not sure how far along you are on the build. I have a the slinger on a double row set of timing gears with no issue.
  8. See notes at the start of this string. 6R80 is a good trans. At Roush we still use it in the Mustang that is tuned to 775HP. But we spend time on the trans shift schedule. The calibration is key to making it run smoothly. Its dependent on the engine control system and torque management. I'm not familiar with the stand alone controller and how they make it work. As stated before its a torque based shift schedule which reads a map of the engine based on the throttle position sensor. With out the other engine sensors I"m not sure how they would make it work.
  9. Is that the brace to the bottom of the front valance panel in front of the front tire? Looks too bent for that but maybe.
  10. This sounds like you have been deep in this part of the industry. Did you work at an oil company? I spent a summer intern job at the Amoco Oil additives research lab in Naperville Illinois back in the 70's. But we were just working on the SAE levels. Great information. Now I have to check the details of what I put in.
  11. When the issue of the low oil pressure started and wrecked the cam, I've changed the oil and filter about 5 times. Last time I ran a magnet through the oil just to check and found nothing. I did change to a magnetic drain plug but I like the idea of the magnet under neath. Heads were new when I started this. They are Roush Aluminum heads with a roller rocker. Not sure what the spring rates were on this. All the other lobs on the cam looked good. It was just the #1 intake. I'll run it a bit longer (I've put about 10 miles on since changing the cam and running the break in) before winter and swap to fresh oil and filter. Appreciate the suggestions.
  12. Thanks for the recommendation. I dont want to go though another cam issue. So far its doing great. Nice to have 8 cylinders again.
  13. Thought I would write the final chapter on this one. Finally was able to dive into the engine. Bottom line it was a wiped cam lobe. The reason the lifter would not pump up is the cam had warn the lifter down so far that there was a hole in the bottom of the lifter. Oil would pump back out. So I was able to push on the top of the rocker and compress the lifter. There was no lobe left on the cam. almost machined completely round. Root cause of this was the fact that I installed a 302 pick up tube. New to building Ford engines I was fooled by the "small block Ford" designation. Fortunately I had so many rear seal leak issues that I constantly changed the oil and filter. I Must have washed all the bits out on a regular basis. One of my 5 replacements of the pan and seal I checked the bearings and all looked good, surprisingly.
  14. After a number of issues that are in a different post, I finally installed a new cam and lifters. I used comp cams break in oil for the 30 minute run up. Good oil pressure and temp the entire time. Seems like this one took ok. Recommendations on how long you keep the break in oil? Should I drive it a bit? Coming to the last days of driving up north so I dont have long before I have to put it away for the winter.
  15. Thanks, I did both. 1 piece gasket and high volume pump. Important part was the new shaft with the keeper on it. So if I pull the distributor it wont pull the driveshaft out again. It worked well. Did the engine break in for a new cam. 30 min at 2K plus. Any suggestions on how long to keep the break in oil in there?
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