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ralt962 last won the day on March 21 2018

ralt962 had the most liked content!

About ralt962

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    Super Stanger'

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    SE Michigan

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  1. ralt962

    69 351W exhaust headers--what works best?

    I used Doug's shorties. They fit easily. Actually you can take them out without moving the engine. Ceramic. Expensive but look great. One caution. In many catalogues they will claim the headers are for a Small Block Ford. Make sure they are actually for a 351 not a 302. It needs to specify 351. The deck height is different and will create significant interferences. I started with Hookers that stated fits small block Ford. I returned those and purchased the Dougs.
  2. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    Thanks, my break in oil has been gone. I'm just on straight 10-30, but will jump up to 10-40 after I redo the pan seal again. I dont believe I have Comp Cams tappets. But what have you seen with those? Have you had one wear quickly?
  3. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    I'm using non blend oil. It was fresh when I put the pan back on. Its not racing oil. Its a new build and thought it would not need the 10-40 oil viscosity (after break in). But agree something better with the flat tappet will be next. Given I"m not going anywhere with the leak and I have and winter setting in I'll likely drain this out anyway. Will go with the 40 weight and try GTX. I've had luck with that in the past also. Used Valvoline racing in all my race cars in the past. Built a number of engines during those days and never had issues like these. But then race car parts were much more expensive. I broke the engine in with zinc comp cams additive and Rotella (although the diesel oils dont seem to have as much zinc as they used to). The oil drips down the front cover of the trans cover plate vs coming down the oil pan. There is very little clearance between the trans cover and the oil pan. Appreciate your help. Its been a long time since I rebuilt a real motor. Disappointed in the quality of the "new" parts I've bought for this. Chased those issues all summer long.
  4. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    Thanks guys. I have 10-30 Valvoline in there now. The odd part of this is that it started to drip after I shut it off. It may have taken my warm up time to move oil to that area. Not sure, but dripping after its off means that oil has gotten past the main seal or the pan gasket. I cant tell which. I need to go back under and run it again. Next time I will duplicate what you've done. I do have the original crank that is cross hatched. But this is more than weeping out, its a drip.
  5. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    Not positive its the pan. But the 2 piece main seal I just installed seemed to fit snugly. Put a bit of sealer on the ends. Used the brown Forma gasket #2 to seal the corners and the pan gasket. Its odd that it took about 5-10 min. of running before it started to leak. And the engine was off when the leak started. Makes me think the pan in the seal area just doesnt fit tight. I was thinking crank case pressure. I do have the PVC set up to the air filter. Not a lot of vacuum but would still be negative pressure. 1969 Mach 1, did you have leaks with the viton? Felpro doesnt make it any more it comes from a different vendor. The main seal I pulled out came out easily. I could see that one leaking. Barnett468 do you put any sealant on the pan rails or just in the front and back seals? thanks for the help. Perplexing.
  6. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    One new Viton rear seal and a new one piece gasket later. Started, ran for about 10 minutes. I shut it off thinking I've got this one. Then a small drip started followed by more. Anyone every get a oil pan that was not a good fit? I still have the original which I'm thinking of reconditioning. I'm running out of ideas. Next would be pull the motor so I can ensure i get the pan back in place. By the way the little plastic studs that hold the gasket, don't fit the gasket. The studs are too large to fit through the holes in the gasket or the pan. Not useful. Not sure Felpro checked this out.
  7. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Looks like my next task. I used a one piece oil pan gasket from Felpro. I comes with those plastic screw in studs that hold the gasket in place. Saved a lot of wrestling last time I did a pan gasket. But this will be a new one. Looks like a tight space up there with the flywheel right there. This is why these cars are such fun!
  8. I have a leaking rear seal. Not sure the cause but its fairly new two piece. Is it possible to replace the rear seal with the trans (FMX) installed? Drop the pan and pull the rear bearing cap off. What is in there is not a rope seal. Thanks for the help. Have not tried this one before.
  9. ralt962

    Bolt in glass diagram.

    One caution with the WCCC video is the bracket position on the glass is different between Cougar and Mustang. This video states 1" from the edge. Mustang is 3/4". I know because I used the 1". It still works since the guides are big enough. But its best to use the right dimension.
  10. ralt962

    C-4 transmission

    There is another forum that is just for Ford Transmissions. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fordtransmissionforum/index.php
  11. ralt962

    All Drive all the time

    RPM, thanks for the help and the finger. I'll check that and the lever attachment inside. I'm getting help on this one. Hopefully this is all there is and I can get it on the street again.
  12. ralt962

    All Drive all the time

    I tend to agree. I'm no trans guy. Looks like I will be pulling it out of the car. Hoping for some quick fix.....likely not coming.
  13. I have a fully rebuilt FMX ( built about 3 years ago), but just now getting it going. At first I seem to have normal gear selection. Had reverse at one point and Park. But now I have all drive. The gear selector has the detents. I can feel the detents in the trans selector by disconnecting the shifter and moving the lever. Park feels a little light for the detent. Other positions the detent is solid. But when the engine is running, it doesn't matter where the selector is, I am in drive. Not a good situation. All I can think of is the selector inside is disconnected or there is a complete mess inside. Its only been driven around the block since the rebuild. Looking for suggestions where to start? Can I get to the selector with the pan off? I"m not an auto trans guy.
  14. ralt962

    oil pan installation

    I just installed the Felpro unit. It actually wedged into the crank seals and stayed there. I went very old school and used Permatex #2. As suggested I put a good amount in the corners after cleaning with first brake cleaner then alcohol. The plastic retainers are great add. I'm saving those. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll let you know how this comes out.
  15. ralt962

    oil pan installation

    Yes, Used Ultra Black. But others recommend the old brown stuff, Permatex 2B. Found a small defect in the pan at the edge of the rear seal surface. Not sure if that is the issue. Sealant should have taken care of that.