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ralt962 last won the day on March 21

ralt962 had the most liked content!

About ralt962

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    Super Stanger'

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    SE Michigan

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  1. ralt962

    Rear Main Seal 351W

    Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. Looks like my next task. I used a one piece oil pan gasket from Felpro. I comes with those plastic screw in studs that hold the gasket in place. Saved a lot of wrestling last time I did a pan gasket. But this will be a new one. Looks like a tight space up there with the flywheel right there. This is why these cars are such fun!
  2. I have a leaking rear seal. Not sure the cause but its fairly new two piece. Is it possible to replace the rear seal with the trans (FMX) installed? Drop the pan and pull the rear bearing cap off. What is in there is not a rope seal. Thanks for the help. Have not tried this one before.
  3. ralt962

    Bolt in glass diagram.

    One caution with the WCCC video is the bracket position on the glass is different between Cougar and Mustang. This video states 1" from the edge. Mustang is 3/4". I know because I used the 1". It still works since the guides are big enough. But its best to use the right dimension.
  4. ralt962

    C-4 transmission

    There is another forum that is just for Ford Transmissions. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/fordtransmissionforum/index.php
  5. ralt962

    All Drive all the time

    RPM, thanks for the help and the finger. I'll check that and the lever attachment inside. I'm getting help on this one. Hopefully this is all there is and I can get it on the street again.
  6. ralt962

    All Drive all the time

    I tend to agree. I'm no trans guy. Looks like I will be pulling it out of the car. Hoping for some quick fix.....likely not coming.
  7. I have a fully rebuilt FMX ( built about 3 years ago), but just now getting it going. At first I seem to have normal gear selection. Had reverse at one point and Park. But now I have all drive. The gear selector has the detents. I can feel the detents in the trans selector by disconnecting the shifter and moving the lever. Park feels a little light for the detent. Other positions the detent is solid. But when the engine is running, it doesn't matter where the selector is, I am in drive. Not a good situation. All I can think of is the selector inside is disconnected or there is a complete mess inside. Its only been driven around the block since the rebuild. Looking for suggestions where to start? Can I get to the selector with the pan off? I"m not an auto trans guy.
  8. ralt962

    oil pan installation

    I just installed the Felpro unit. It actually wedged into the crank seals and stayed there. I went very old school and used Permatex #2. As suggested I put a good amount in the corners after cleaning with first brake cleaner then alcohol. The plastic retainers are great add. I'm saving those. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll let you know how this comes out.
  9. ralt962

    oil pan installation

    Yes, Used Ultra Black. But others recommend the old brown stuff, Permatex 2B. Found a small defect in the pan at the edge of the rear seal surface. Not sure if that is the issue. Sealant should have taken care of that.
  10. Looking for any tips on installing the oil pan in the car. 69 351W. I had to remove the pan to install a new pickup. First attempt failed. No drips on the sides, just at the rear. I believe the main seal is good. I had run the car at 2K rpm but unknowingly with low oil pressure (10-20). No leaks anywhere at that time. Fixed that issue, now 40-50. But using the Ford racing one piece gasket, I must have failed mostly on the rear end. I know the front main seal is good. Rear seal didnt leak with the low oil pressure. After reinstalling the pan I get lots of leaking at the rear. Possibly a little at the front. I cant tell if I'm getting oil at the pan seal or the main seal. Just looking for tips and wisdom so I don't repeat. I have the pan off again cleaning up the surfaces.
  11. ralt962

    Yet another circuit board question....

    Agree with Midlife (he is the expert here). Check the grounds. But also check the blue lens for each light. I used the dimable LEDs which are great, but I found that all the lenses were melted from the original bulbs. This made the cluster look like no lights at all. Once I changed to new blue lenses and the dimable LEDs I'm all set. They do dim correctly and have the original look in the car. Plus thanks to Midlife, I have all my gauges working correctly.
  12. ralt962

    Engine Oil Dipstick tube

    Completely agree. You cant trust even the new parts. My new Carter fuel pump I found out was putting out 15psi, mainly from a design flaw. Took a while to diagnose and switched to an Edelbrock. Need to double check everything.
  13. ralt962

    Engine Oil Dipstick tube

    Yes thats what I was doing. Not sure why they cut it down, but not I have the correct length dipstick to compare. The one I bought at NPD was wrong. It must be fore the 302. Greatly appreciate the quick responses. I had a low oil pressure issue and found out the pick up tube was from a 302, very different from the 351. Add to this the dip stick tube issue ( it was too long so the dipstick would ride higher in the pan). I fired it up tonight and the gauge now shows the correct pressure. Back in business. thanks,
  14. ralt962

    Engine Oil Dipstick tube

    Thank you this helps. The one that was in the car has the Ford part number and the oval stamped in it. But its shorter. Then I noticed its been cut at the end. There is only the the upper limit stamped in the stick. The rest of it has been cut off. I'll have to pull the one I now have in the car and see if it stacks up to the measurements you provided. If you measure from the full mark to the start of the shroud is it 20 3/8"? I think the math works. Or atleast close to it. thanks for the help.
  15. Can someone tell me the real length for the oil dipstick tube and the dipstick for a 351W. I purchased the 13 11/16 tube which according to NPD is the right tube for the 351. It is very different vs the tube that was on my engine. Measuring from the point where the tube gets pressed into the front cover to the tip of the stick is about 3" different. The one in the car was farther down in the pan, which would tell me to have less oil. But I want to confirm I'm using the correct stick. thanks