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ralt962 last won the day on March 21 2018

ralt962 had the most liked content!

About ralt962

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    Super Stanger'

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    SE Michigan

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  1. Nicely done. You dont seem to have the usual wrinkles of the window gasket at the bottom. Looks good!
  2. Barnett, any idea why it would have gone bad? Used lots of assembly lube, used zinc oil and added a quote of what Crane Cams recommends. But I did have low oil pressure early on due to the wrong pickup tube. When they say Small Block Ford they don't mean 351. Found out the hard way. Not sure if that was it. But could have been. thanks. Pull the intake next.
  3. Another update on this one. I think its a wiped lobe. Pulling the rocker arm I rotated the engine. The push rod moved 0.118". But there is a wear pattern on the push rod all the way around, but below where I just measured. The wear pattern is about 0.48" which is close to right. The fact that its lower down and I can compress the lifter easily. Could the lifter be stuck up higher in its bore so I'm not really getting movement? I'll have to pull the intake and see if I can measure the cam lift through the lifter bore (unless the lifter is stuck in there). Any suggestions appreciated.
  4. Question add to this topic. The front window bracket has the fastener with the flat plate on the back as seen in the picture above. It has a clinch nut on it. I know its there for adjustment but when I tighten mine down it still have fore aft movement. Is this supposed to lock in place for the adjustment? I dont have the capture washer. Is that part of the stack up that will then help clamp it in place?
  5. Thanks for the suggestions. I can check the cam lob by taking the rocker off and seeing what movement I get. Last time I had the valve cover off I could compress the lifter by hand. Which tells me there is no oil in it. Oil would squirt out or I couldnt push it down. I'll have to take the intake off and pull the lifter. Hope thats all it is. Wiped cam would be a bit more work. But hey thats what we have these cars for.
  6. 69 Shelby,  In a discussion topic on re gluing the glass you mention the WCCC video uses 1" from the edge but Mustang is different.  The link in discussion doesnt seem to be live anymore.  Can you provide the dimensions from the edge of glass to the bracket?   thanks,

    1. 69ShelbyGT350H
    2. ralt962


      Perfect.  Thank you.  I'm gluing the bracket tomorrow.  

      I bought the $26 gun to apply the adhesive.  I think the reason my bracket came undone was that the epoxy didnt mix.  After blowing the cost of more adhesive and having to rebuild the door, I'm not taking chances.

  7. Well an new update to this one. I now believe that lifter is not pumping up. Engine runs pretty well but feels like a miss. I checked the exhaust temps using and infrared gun. This cylinder is 100 deg cooler than the others. Its #1. Timing light works on this cylinder so I'm getting spark. The plug was wet with what looks like fuel. Starting the car, I get around 130 deg on the header compared to 230 on the other headers. Have not tried a compression tester yet. But if the intake is not opening that wont tell much. Any suggestions on fixing a single lifter? Have not pulled it out yet.
  8. The plastic package tray is from CJPony parts. It has two speaker risers molded in. I installed a set of Panasonic speakers. I could not find the bar nor the plastic corners. Fortunately I found them here. Some of the guys on line had extra parts that I purchased. Not sure why no one makes them. Although most restored cars have the fold down seat. Glad the pic helped.
  9. You can see in the picture the metal bar across the back seat. It nests with the plastic corner piece which is supposed to nest better with the quarter trim panel. Mine doesnt fit well. It should but up against the plastic corner piece.
  10. Yes I have a non fold down Mach 1. And the tray shown at the top is upside down. When you fit in the tray play with its placement and the hockey sticks that are the trim edges. To get them to fit well it takes some finesse. I hand fit all the pieces before I put the screws in the package tray. Mine needed new holes to mount it in the back. Not sue where the fit was off.
  11. There is a trim metal U shaped bar that goes across the top of the back seat and covers the leading edge of the tray. The tray screws into the top of the seat. I think this picture shows you have that right. Then the U shaped bar goes on top of that. There are plastic trim corners at each end. I couldnt find them in any of the catalogues but some one on here had an extra set. I'll try to take a couple of pictures of the corners and post them here. I bought a plastic trim cover for the rear tray. It gets shingled by the metal trim piece also. The speakers mount in the plastic trim cover.
  12. I've done it both ways. The last build I did just the RTV on the ends and its worked just fine. No leaks. I use the Black RTV. This is a 351W in my 69 Mach 1. I also use 4 studs (cut off and rounded bolts) to help guide the manifold down to the right spot. Agree with dry fit test also.
  13. I did purchase just the mirror glass and followed the video from WCCC. I has worked our great. I was able to significantly tighten up the loose mirror. We'll see how it works over time but this was a well done suggestion and did save me a few dollars. For $17 to buy the mirror this was a great idea.
  14. I have one door set of door hinge backing plates with the dog point fasteners. Not bad shape. I will ship if you pay the shipping cost. I believe them to be orginal parts and fasteners. Message me if interested.
  15. I have set of what I believe are OEM rear lap belts. They have numbers stamped on the metal brackets. I dont see a Ford part number. They are not in great shape. But my alternative is to chuck them. Just pay for shipping and I send them. Message me if interested.
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