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barnett468

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Everything posted by barnett468

  1. I wish you luck getting your door windows to line up and seal.
  2. barnett468

    Need a spark plug gap for my engine

    what is the advertised duration? who made that cam? .
  3. barnett468

    Need a spark plug gap for my engine

    yeah, .028" -,035", plus, you should be running 1 step colder than stock unless you have a huge cam to bleed off some compression.
  4. barnett468

    Brake pressure specs

    unfortunately it's not quite that simple, but if you have crappy shoes in the front, or ones that are for road racing etc, then yes, pads with higher initial grip when cold will help. if it takes an unusual amount of force to lock the brakes in general with the power booster, then you need a smaller master or a higher power booster as well. also, i'm not positive how the gm prop valve system works works and this may be contributing to the problem. i would have used a 69 or 70 ford prop valve setup.
  5. barnett468

    Brake pressure specs

    ok you can change the percentage of fluid that goes to the rears by installing an adjustable aftermarket prop valve in the rear line then reducing the pressure to the rears or installing smaller rear wheel cylinders if they are available. if your light is on, it should not go off by itself if you push on the pedal but as long as it is off, i would guess it is ok. are you certain that there is no air left in the lines? does it stop abnormally poorly? do the rears lock up under light to moderate (normal) pedal pressure?
  6. barnett468

    Valve stem seal questions

    I like to do a regular compression test as well, but as I mentioned, bad seals and guides will not make a ton of smoke as you describe it. Those seals are all basic stock types with the longest one providing the best shield from oil getting on the valves unless you use ones that push over the valve guides.
  7. barnett468

    Valve stem seal questions

    bad valve guide seals and bad valve guides will not cause it to smoke a ton. can you post a photo of the seals? the orig ones were the "umbrella" type
  8. barnett468

    Brake pressure specs

    do you have a factory proportioning valve and is it working properly? do the rears lock up first both with and without the power booster? 700 psi to the front is too little for discs unless you can bench press 400 lbs with your legs. .
  9. barnett468

    Brake pressure specs

    I don't quite understand exactly what "specs" you are looking for. What are you wanting to achieve?
  10. barnett468

    Best rear gear manufacter

    Us gear and the motive gears from italy . Motive also has gears from another country but i would not use those. Strange engineering has them. Timken bearings.
  11. barnett468

    Transmission coolers

    ...or if you live in bakersfield or phoenix or vegas.
  12. barnett468

    Transmission coolers

    If your rad has a trans cooler and the engine does not run hot, yes, you should use the rad trans cooler in addition to an aftermarket trans cooler IF you use a small aftermarket trans cooler, because the water temp will be less than the trans fluid temp once everything is up to operating temp, therefore the 180 - 190 degree water temp will cool the 200 + degree trans fluid. i would run the trans fluid thru the rad first, then thru the aftermarket cooler. You can mount it to the front drivers side of the core support where the drag pak engine oil cooler mounts then move the passenger side horn to the passenger side like a drag pak. the drag pak horn bracket and horn wire are available. you should have at least 3/4" of air apace between the cooler and the ac condenser. there are many good aftermarket oil coolers. i for one would not use a used oil cooler cuz it may be grungy inside and possibly even rusty. its just not worth the risk imo. ..................................
  13. barnett468

    lowering compression

    what octane booster were you using? most boosters don't boost the overall octane by much. if the torco doesn't help enough, one of the best octane boosters is tel which is real lead additive. you can get it on ebay. below is some info. http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/octanesupreme01a.htm boostane is one of the other top boosters and they make a street version and professional version. the pro version increases octane more and will even increase hp if you tune for it. https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/fuel-cooling-ignition-tech/the-big-fuel-test-boostane-adds-24-rwhp/ https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/fuel-cooling-ignition-tech/big-fuel-test-part-5-e85-versus-winner-crowned/ torco has additives that will settle out of it but when the car is moving they should get mixed back in ok. the 650 holley will be a little bit small when you put headers on it but it is far simpler carb than an eddy. if yours has vacuum secondaries, you can try different secondary springs to see if you can increase performance. the white spring is the most common one people upgrade to. .
  14. barnett468

    lowering compression

    1. i talked to arias this morning but they may not have records if you got the pistons a while ago. 2. well, 9 to 1 is a bit low with that cam but you still likely need headers or a smaller cam. 3. The pinging problem would go away but it would still run hot, since it ran hot previously. 4. How do you know that if you never had a numerical gauge on it? 5. Hopefully they will help at least some. 6. No prob, and crate engines are sometimes not great quality, and reputable builders are often the best way to go, but if I was building someones engine and they handed me domed pistons, I would calculate the compression before assembling it and let the customer know if it would run on pump gas or not. .
  15. barnett468

    lowering compression

    Do you have a photo of the pistons or the paper arias gave you? .
  16. barnett468

    lowering compression

    1. this did not answer my question completely, therefore, i don't know exactly what is going on with it. 2. you must mean gauge, not light, but that is useful info. 3. i would still install it and duct tape it or wire tie it etc to keep it from flopping around. 4. so if you drive it and the gauge goes to 3/4's while driving, does the gauge go back down if you then stop for a couple minutes? 5. how long was it running for before you checked it with the infra red gun? where on the engine did you point the infra red gun? how hot did it say it was? where was the needle on the stock temp gauge when you checked the temp with the infra red gun? 6. ok, based on that condition only, it strongly suggests that the float level is too high. if your carb has brass screws in the side of the float bowls, set the gas/float level so it is around 1/8th inch below the inspection hole immediately after turning the engine off. i check the level with the engine running but this makes a bit more of a mess. either way, put a wad of paper towels or something below the inspection holes to try and keep the gas off the intake. also, wrap a piece of paper towel around the float adjustment screws every time you loosen them, otherwise, it will likely spray gas all over for a second which can be...unpleasant. If your carb has clear inspection plugs, tell us what the level currently is then lower it until the gas is just 1/4 up the inspection window. .
  17. barnett468

    lowering compression

    Ok unfortunately your 160 t stat is now open all the time rendering it non functional. You need a 180 or 192 but in your case this alone will not fix the problem. You can call arias and ask them what your pistons are but as long as they do not have a dome that is still useful info but more accurate info would be better but it is not 11.5 compression if they do not have a dome. Are you saying that it ran cooler with the new rad when you first installed it but it eventually started running hotter with no other changes? If this is the case, did the weather get hotter at the same time?
  18. barnett468

    lowering compression

    ok, your compression is around 10.7 if your pistons are flat on top, which is a little high but not horrifically high. do your heads have a quench pad? your cam and stock exhaust combined together are likely causing part of the heat problem, and if you install headers, it should reduce the heating problem some. never, ever, trust an idiot lite or orig gauge. get an infra red gun or better yet a real temp gauge and use that at least until the problem is corrected. .044" over is probably contributing to the problem a little as well but i wouldn't worry about that at the moment unless the block has a core shift or thin spots from rust inside the water jackets, and the cylinder thickness can only be checked with the heads off. a cross flow rad would help reduce temps some and a multi pass rad will reduce them even more but the multi pass rads are a bit pricey. i would also try 2/3rds demineralized water and 1/3rd green prestone anti freeze and 1.5 times the recommended amount of DEI radiator relief and a 16 lb rad cap. your 1500 cfm fans are unlikely to flow 1500 cfm. i would use a contour dual fan if it fits better than a taurus. i would also convert the t stat to a brass milodon 180 or 192 and get a bypass plate or modify your original plate with a plug of some kind and drill a 1/8" hole in the center of the plug. the milodon will flow more water and will not close from the increased pressure created by the high flow water pump. also, if the head gaskets are installed backwards, it will over heat the engine. Less than optimal advance can cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would, however, more advance often means more pinging if it already pings even if the engine runs a little cooler with more advance so this type of thing is a bit of trial and error, however, if more advance makes it run cooler but also makes it ping more, you can increase the advance via the distributor vacuum can instead of thru the centrifugal system of the disatributor. IGNITION TIMING Disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum advance line going to the carb. Rev the engine to around 2500 rpm then advance the timing 4 degrees and listen for an increase in rpm. If there is a noticeable increase that you can definitely hear, and the engine still runs smoothly, the mechanical advance is less than optimal.
  19. barnett468

    lowering compression

    xlnt. ok, will be back in a short while.
  20. barnett468

    lowering compression

    ok great. the piston "volume" is the size of the dish or dome including the valve reliefs. if the fans came from champion they are the lower end of air flow per size/diameter and i for one wouldn't use them even if they gave them to me. spal is one of the best fan mfgs and they have many to choose from. stock USED original ford fans from a v6 contour, or taurus, or lincoln are also some of the best. based on your reply, it doesn't sound like your compression is excessively high. if it was, it would ping most of the time when accelerating even with octane booster, unless you happen to also be using 95 or higher octane gas. if you have .041" thick gaskets, you could go to .060" thick ones but i would use thick intake gaskets. you may also have to slot the holes on the intake slightly. increasing the gasket thickness by .020" will lower your compression by around .5 but this should not be done on heads that have a quench pad. did they zero deck the block? do your pistons have a raised dome? how did you set the timing curve and the vacuum advance if you use one? when it gets hot does it get hot in traffic or on the highway or both? if you have a numerical temp gauge, how hot does it get? champion makes a few different rads, so how many rows deep and how wide is it and is it a cross flow? your bore is .040 over? what cam do you have? do you have headers? where is your float level set at? if the float level is high, it will cause stalling at idle when hot and sometimes erratic idle or stalling after stopping moderately quickly.
  21. barnett468

    lowering compression

    you can get you all the custom 4032 material pistons you want for around $650.00 for 8 from race tech. 2618 material will cost a little more. in general, waterless coolant is not as efficient at cooling as plain water or regular 50/50. we need WAY more info. What heads do you have? What cc are the heads? what volume is the top of your pistons? did you set the timing curve to the optimum level? does your engine ping? what gas are you using? what water pump? exactly what t stat and t stat setup. the cleveland is different than the windsors. exactly what radiator do you have? what is your elevation? how hot is your hot weather? does it have any problems in cool weather like 60 degrees or less? exactly what fans do you have? .
  22. barnett468

    Driveline Angles

    1. they may simply not be explaining it correctly. the actual angle of the driveshaft by itself is irrelevant because it has no idea what angle it is at. in other words, it doesn't matter whether you drive your car on a road that is horizontal or one that is at a 45 degree angle. 2. pretty much, unless you have a link suspension like rpm does and some older gm cars had, in which case, you could put them both at nearly the same angle, however, the pinion will still rise slightly under load with a link system if the links use rubber bushings instead of heim joints because the bushings will flex, therefore, a slight difference in angle is still advisable imo. .
  23. barnett468

    Should I recore my original radiator?

    I would NOT recore it. The rad shops can NOT get the us made cores with the same tube size as the originals, and the cores they now use have much smaller tubes then the original rads had, so if you get one with the same amount of tubes as the one you have, it will hold LESS water and will not col as efficiently. I actually have a rad with a new us made core that i would sell if it fits your needs and your car. .
  24. barnett468

    Period Correct Alternator

    What is your question?
  25. barnett468

    Intake By-Pass Tube Size - C5AE9425C

    Just in case you are interested, i may have the correct date coded intake for your car and it is for a 49th state non smog car.
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