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Everything posted by barnett468

  1. The needle does not tell what the actual temp is. Only an infra red gun or gauge with an actual readout in farenheit or celcius will. A non original temp sender will typically position the needle in a different position than a properly working orig sender will at the proper operating temp, then it can so if the needle reads lower or higher with the aftermarket sender, it does not mean the actual engine temp is lower or higher. A gauge with a numerical read out is the best way to determine engine temp.
  2. You can not use the needle as an indicator of temp, because it will read differently with an aftermarket sender than with an original one, however, with the orig one, the needle will be around 1/4 up from cold if the sender is working properly. .
  3. the gasket can move and even squish out during assembly if you use silicone on both sides. when i use cork i glue it to the block with gaska-cinch then use silicone under the ends and on top. a silicone bead works xlnt if the right silicone is used. the best to use is permatex ultra gray. it is far better than the permatex ultra black. you may also be able to use toyota fipg but i have never used it for that purpose. i sand the gasket sealing surface on the ends of the intake with 180 grit so the silicone can get a better bite on it. do not put water in the engine or start it until after 24 hours when using silicone only as an end seal.
  4. they will all need vacuum metalizing but you can cheat and paint it with chrome in a can instead. i think the vacuum metalizing was around $150.00 the last time I had it done.
  5. omg...ok, i hate you now. that belair is killer . i love those cars. you can get the instrument bezel "rechromed" so the edge around the gauges looks like chrome the way it originally did. the process is called vacuum metalizing.
  6. I am not sure what you are after, however, if you want Mach 1 wood grain dash and glove box pieces, I have a few. I also have a new wood grain radio bezel and the stainless door trim for the deluxe interiors and many other parts. I am also a scott drake dealer and might be able to save you some money on some parts if you want.
  7. Unfortunately they are all crap mainly because the rubber is a bazillion times harder than the factory rubber but carpenters is less crappy than most others.
  8. as mentioned, it would be helpful to know what your compression is. it is possible that simply bolting on higher ratio rocker arms will give you more power, but without the cam and head flow info, it would just be trial and error. also, your ignition timing needs to be set to the optimum level for your particular engine to get the most power out of it. if you have a vacuum secondary carb, you can probably get more mid range power by installing a lighter secondary spring.
  9. You bought a new timing set to replace the one that was installed incorrectly and made the popping noise?
  10. the best wilwood brakes are radial calipers and the large diameter, extra thick discs. you will never need anything better.
  11. if you plan on driving hard enough for the brakes to get hot, like road race or a mountain road etc, you should get better ones.
  12. Lol, yeah, there are some super thin, ie super crappy carb base gaskets out there
  13. keep us posted . shouldn't have a problem with crane lifters but it's possible it's defective. if you have push in rocker studs the stud can also pull out of the head.
  14. Is it a comp cams lifter? Did you try to adjust it again? They should be around 1/2 turn in from zero.
  15. the best molded mustang acc carpet is nothing more than their standard crap molded carpet with a heavier backing. the best carpet was made by distinctive industries but they stopped making it but some small mustang shops may have some left in stock.
  16. To start with, do you have a photo of the tire tread? If the face of the tread is flat, the car will drift/wander a little if it is a 70's mustang or camaro etc.
  17. the tires will not hit the arms. you can also often grind a little off the end of the arm to get clearance if needed.
  18. if the intake gasket is leaking in the valley, it could suck up oil. one thing to determine if it is getting excess oil into one or more of the cylinders is to remove the plugs and number them with a felt pen then look at the porcelain and see if it looks wet and oily. you could also be sucking it up thru the pcv if you have aftermarket valve covers, in which case you can put an oil catch can in the pcv line to see if it gets oil in it. they sell them at summit racing.
  19. well you said it runs rough, and if an engine is running rough it is typically from low compression in one or more cylinders, an electrical issue like a bad plug wire or bad plug, or a big cam or it could be from an imbalanced engine or imbalanced or bent flywheel.
  20. lol, the first thing my girlfriend did the only time i let her drive my 78 corvette was run the front spoiler over a parking curb.
  21. Ok then you can increase your timing at idle then reduce the amount of total timing or delay the onset of the timing if you want but this won't fix your miss. You didn't answer my question about the compression test. It may have low compression in one cylinder.
  22. The car starts pinging at idle when you advance the timing? Did you do a compression test? You didn't answer my diaphragm question.
  23. That is not unusually low and it may increase with more timing. I can post one way to check the timing later, but for now you can try advancing it 4 degrees and see if the vacuum and the rpm increases a noticeable amount then report the findings. Do you have a single or dual diaphragm vacuum advance can?
  24. The acc carpet is barely tolerable, don't know about the drake carpet but if you call them they will tell you who makes it.
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