Rsanter

First off I would look at the option of having a frame shop pull the rear rail if it is not that bad. you can then work out any cosmetic kinks or do patching if you so desire.. do you really need to replace the whole front rail? i like to keep as much original metal as I can. If there is rust from battery acid you may only need to replace the front part of that rail. if you replace the whole front rail. I would remove the engine and trans and get the car up on stands. remove the tower as you were planning to get rid of it anyway but cut away the bottom of the tower only and leave the top 3/4 of it in place, and then trim out the old rail. with the inner aprons in place you can get the new rail alighted with the pan, front cross member and the inner apron and it will be properly located. once the rail is welded in I would remove the remainder of the tower for the Mll front kit. i would also add front torque boxes while you are at it

I had a similar problem with USAA when someone hit my trailer. they totaled the trailer to the DMV before we even discussed how much I would get for it. the little bastard set a price for the trailer that was too low and when I would not agree he said they don’t negotiate prices. i made him send me all the information for how he came about the value for the trailer. When he sent me compaired the values of all kinds of trailer including the little harbor freight ones and mine is a full car trailer. little bastard told me that’s how it’s done i ended up going around him and talking to his supervisor and explaining the issue. supervisor made it right and applogized for the little bastards actions the supervisor paid me what I had in the trailer (bought it used, damage was not that bad. Mostly bent the fender) and then set th salvage value at zero and told me to keep the trailer. imfoxed the trailer and am still using it

I have always heard and rear that tinted glass automatically came on the 65-6 cars. I had assumed it was all of them but it appears that it some point ford made it optional

There are several easy ways to add a seat belt point with reinforcement. cut, drill and tap a plate. cut a slot or a flap on the inside of the rocker and slip the piece in. Plug weld to hold in place and then weld up the slot or flap Or weld a nut to a plate and then droll a big enough hole for the nut to fit through. then weld that plate to the outside of the rocker with the nut on the backside

I do not have a website, I have been selling the kit on eBay but I can also sell direct here i am also building a few complete pans for people making Shelby clones

They make an epoxy based filler that is really good

I have done this a couple times for customers. i don’t like to move the seat platform so I always do it with the added bracket to the seat track. whats nice is as it goes back it also goes down due to the angle. if you need to move the seatbelt attachment, no big deal. Just do it. its all hidden under the carpet

Sorry about that. Dam autocorrect i make a kit that you cut the bottom off your oilpan and make it an AVIAD racing style pan perfect for pans that have damaged sumps basic kit is $69

Do,you,Kant to make,it a aviad style T sump pan? i make the kit to,c you nevertheless your pan clean off the rust, cut off the bottom and weld on the kit.

Remove and preserve looks,like a build sheet and a quality check sheet

I bet he won’t do,that again

That’s great. learned that in school,but have spoken with so many people that don’t understand it

Yeh problem with this jig is that if you have a wreck or a rusted car. It won’t guarantee proper alignment of critical points unless you measure and index it every time. if you copy this design I would also look at the factory manual for frame points and drill index holes and reference lines so that when you put it together you know you have correct placement of those critical points

The remote jumper terminals are really meant for race cars so they don’t have to open the battery box or don’t have to try to get in a confined space to attach the clamps. also if you have a street rod and you have hidden the battery under the floor, under the bed, under a seat...etc. they allow you to jump your car without taking things apart

As said the difference is in the depth of the console insert. You can leave it as is and run it. If the gap bother you, you can also make a shim that would move the boot up to fill the gap

Just because you port the heads does not mean just make them bigger. on the exhaust side the ford heads are so restricted that going bigger is the first step. But a lot of porting is to get the best flow out of the size of port you have/create. when I do porting I always want to know what the customer wants out of the car. And that drives how much I port and how big I make things. this is why you will find that companies that make the aftermarket heads will have several versions of their heads and will list the port volume. That way you can best match what heads are for your application with stock heads it would be hard to make them too big as you can only go so far

I put mine on the driver inner fender panel, but a friend mounted his under the dash, he then split the tape on the gauge harness and ran the wire with that and rewraped the harness. you would have to look very carefully to see that he had an MSD or anything added

I used to port and rebuild heads all the time. It was good money for a while. since the newer wave of aftermarket heads have come out, not that many people are willing to pay to have their heads ported. personally I see your situation two ways, port what you have and rebuild them. You can even do the porting yourself. or just but aftermarket heads ready to go. if you price the difference between new valves, port Work, hard seats, labor, etc, you may find there is little difference between the rebuilt heads and the new aluminum heads

Keep in mind that you only need the bigger headers, carb and exhaust for the higher RPMs. if you are not spending much time at those higher RPMs then going bigger can lose low end response as well as mileage for exhaust, 2” is fine. 2 1/4 is good, and unless you plan to be at wide open throddle a bunch then the 2 1/2 is really too big do your research and you will find there are cam grinds available for the edelbrock, TFS, AFR heads that are designed for those heads. some other places have build sheets that show example engine they build and what the dyno results are for decent bargain aluminum heads you can look at the skip white heads

It gives you rear disc brakes, a posi, and 373 gears. if you just want the rear disc brakes all you have to do is take the rear disc set from an explorer or crown Vic and swap them onto the 8” or 9” you already have. explorer for the big bearing crown Vic for the small bearing

Check that the disc brake cars don’t use different wheel cylinder. i know in the 65-6 models if you have a disc brake car the rear wheel cylinder are a different size. The prop valve will be calibrated to that designed balance.

Cars that are expensive and need constant attension or they won’t run are female for sure

I have had both i like the steel bed better. the wood bed trailers are cheaper, it the wood will need replaced at some point. A.so if you need to drag machinery onto a trailer the wood bed makes it harder

You still may want to get another car to use as a donar if you start to replace large sections or lots of pieces. you may be able,to find a bare body with roof damage cheaper than buying a bunch of repo metal