rwcstang

I have a 351w with long tubes and original PS my clutch uses an external slave from MDL. Im still running my 8" brake booster and long tube headers, no clearance issues

Hey Team, long time no talk! Two part question; 1. I'm wanting to replace my Summit Ready to run Distributor with something a little better and that will last longer. My car would completely die while driving at low and high speed, this is the 2nd circuit board I had to replace so I think I need to go with a different brand and better performing. Any Suggestions? it's mainly for street use I heard Mallory or pertronix would work, but I would like to hear your suggestions. 2. Ever since I had my Holley 750 cfm, the damn thing would always whistle when revving, at times it would be intermittent, usually when cold you would not hear it but when hot you could hear it. I replaced all vacuum hoses and carb gasket but issue persists. I am not running a carb spacer as it will cause hood clearance issues. not sure if the throttle plate bushing is worn or possibly the main body is the culprit. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Current setup 351w/392w stroker Weiand Stealth intake: WND-8023WND 750 carb: HLY-0-76750BK

mine was born on May 16, 1969 - one day behind schedule

I have them on my 69 mustang, i bought mine through here http://undercoverinnovations.com/?s=&catIds=92-118

does anyone know where I can buy a good set of hood clips, the repos suck, they break off so easily.

Hey all, just to clarify, I'm not looking for tie downs when on a trailer, though I will take note of the links provided. I am more interested in where to put a tow strap or loop, like Kevin31 and RogerC pics, this is just so if my car can't move under its own power, I can just have the tow truck just hook up to a location which will not put stress on the frame or suspension parts when being pulled on to the bed. Just like the older/modern race cars they have locations on the frame in case they get stuck somewhere. I am running a chin spoiler so I will need to figure out a location where it won't interfere/rub with any parts. I have attached photos for reference.

Hello All, Has anyone ever installed a tow hook or strap on the front and rear of their mustang? if so, where did you install it? is bolted or welded better? I've seen tow hooks/straps on earlier mustangs but I have yet to see one on 69-70 models.

that's a bummer, I have been thinking of doing an EFI Conversion myself with Holley's Sniper and Distributor setup, I think this tank will do well! definitely knocks out my ext.pump from holley as its been frustrating with it overheating on hot days.

Saw this on the VMF forums, Thought I would share this with ya'll if you havent seen it. Definitely something worth looking at if your doing intank setup for EFI/Carb applications. Definitely can't wait to do a EFi Conversion with this thank. https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/gen2tanks_pa/ Have to wait until fall for the 69-70 tanks

what's at an uncomfortable level? the needle hits the middle of (te|mp) This link should help you trouble shoot. http://www.mustangandfords.com/g00/how-to/engine/mump-1109-how-to-troubleshoot-engine-overheating/?i10c.encReferrer=&i10c.ua=1&i10c.dv=14

Never had Grant steering wheel, but I went this GT performance and bought their raised steering wheel hub adapter so I wouldn't have to cut steering wheel shaft. No mod needed. https://gtperformance.net/product-category/products/steering-wheels-all/gt-pro-touring-steering-wheels-all/

Check out CaliforniaFords.com its a online forum with a very active classified section you might find a 351w or if you post that you are looking for one, someone will DM you. my other suggestion is calling a Machine Shop to see where they can obtain a roller 351w or if they have one in stock. if anything they sell roller camshaft conversion kits. For shop recommendation, look up RPM Auto & Machine, RPMENG.com. a friend of mine got his 408w built there. Im sure there are local machine shops in your area if that's too far away.

I'd invest in a roller 351w, stronger and can take anything you throw at it. you can build a good street-able stroker motor. Stay away from Online crates, unless you have extra money laying around to ship it back. Most online stores dont really specify what parts are being installed, could be chinese parts to cover their build cost. not saying all online shops do this, but if you are going to buy a online crate motor, i recommend speaking with them and letting them know what you want and they should give you a detailed list of whats being installed.

Im not sure if I should be offended or glad Im too young to understand that pun. I Had to look up what you guys were talking about and didn't realize this was a thing to do...

Hey Everyone, 2 part question Needed input, since glass fuses are becoming harder to find (my local parts stores hardly carry them or don't have the correct amperage.) Has anyone bought any glass fuses online? I see CJPP has a kit but for $30, but is there any other sites that sell an assortment of these type of tubes? at some point, these will discontinue eventually, I was even considering buying a whole Wiring kit that has the new type fuses and would like some input as well if anyone has any experience with these kits? Thanks!

I had the same issues with my heads. The shop discovered the valve seals kept slipping, they were replaced but it never resolved my issue, they pulled the heads andI later found out the valve guides were installed incorrectly/Worn. for backfire, I would check the Distributor Cap and Rotor and also check the Distributor gear if it is worn out. I use a Brass Gear and I have to check every 3 months because I run a high volume oil pump. Debating to go with the normal pump and putting in my steel gear to eliminate this issue.

Unless there are adapters or Bell housing conversions, like the manuals, I don't think so. Also, what motor to you have? I recommend checking out performance automatic (put purchase the transmission through summitracing, better pricing), as I believe they build AOD's to handle the performance of the motor. I had Performance automatic "Street Fighter" c4 transmission before it got stolen/swapped at the shop I took it too (Long story). I purchased it in on 08 and it never failed, the transmission was top notch and never any leaks. the c4 I have now (the swapped one) is rebuilt with the HD clutches, but it still doesn't pull like my street fighter did, most likely built with a stock shift kit and lower RPM torque convertor. luckily, Im saving up for my TKO swap from MDL and get a few more gears. Also, there are a ton of guys on here who converted to AOD so they can definitely help you out. it's an Older AOD but it will fit your application as long as its a pushrod

I'd be interested, definitely getting tired of fuel spilling out when I fill up.

yeah, didn't know what to compare it too but that's the first thing that popped into my mind. I actually found a photo of a 69 hardtop with modern vents doesn't look that bad.. but then again I like the new modern look on our classics.

what about using the 2013-14 vents? it would definitely look more appropriate if you're trying to go for that pro-touring clean look. Those vents remind me of a DIY home depot mod lol.

Awesome project, can't wait to see it when it's done!

Found a youtube link

screen shot?

No, you're not alone. I'm in love with my coupe! though, I would love fastback in my collection... I just think the 69-70 coupe's didn't get much attention like the other years where both coupe and fastback were both desired and loved. I wish ford could've could've marketed it better, i.e carrying on the gt/cs or made like an autocross, coupe-like Shelbys. I think the 69-70 coupe are the underdogs.. if done right they can definitely stand out.

I have their GAT 4.5 mid eye leaf with de-lum bushings, No complaints and I'm happy with them.