rwcstang

I was running the stock 8 when I had my old 393w stroker, I was putting down 365rwhp 400rwtq. it can take the power, just don't put a sticky tire on, unless you are racing. if you are that dead set on going with a ford 8 and want posi, send your old one or get a new rebuilt set here: https://8and9inchfordrears.com/ plenty of ppl used him and had no issues. just go with upgraded spline to 31 and upgrade the axles and you'll be set. The reason I say save up for a ford 9, its because thats what I did, I didn't want to pay twice if I wanted to go bigger, I rather set it and forget it.

Its a pulley puller: https://www.amazon.com/SCITOO-Steering-Removal-Installation-Disconnect/dp/B07KG7DC9W?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A3GW5CKPDHE2JH to properly align the belts, I also use this one: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dayco-belt-diagnostic-kit-two-piece-laser-alignment-tool-with-belt-wear-identifier-93874/10030803-p?product_channel=local&store=9892

what side is your alternator on driver or passenger? most traditional p/s setups are on the driver side, NPDlink.com would be your best to source the pump, bracket. you just need to a pulley alignment tool to adjust the pump pulley and align the drive belt.

I put down 453rwhp 525rwtq with 3:50s with a TKX (68OD) behind my 427w stroker. At 65mph I'm around 2100-2300rpm, under 60 Im at 1800-2k rpms with ford 9 3:50's. if you have the 5 speed already installed, go with a ford 9 w/ 3:50s and go 31 spline trutrac, thats what I have and its a fun car to drive, good rpm pick up for street and highway. Otherwise, stick with the stock 8 until you upgrade. no need to invest in a ford 8 when it cost a few hundred more to go with a ford 9.

Anyone had their sensors that leaked? recently replaced the old unit but it still leaks after everything was tightened down.

I got mine through MustangsPlus years ago when they were still in the biz, NPD is your best bet, you would probably get more accurate answer from him if you reach out to him in Vintage Mustang Forums or just call NPD, his name is Rick, username is 69bossnine

Thanks Mike, seems easy enough!

Two Questions: whats the best way to install hood pins, is there a specific measurement, been looking around and cant find any regarding the hood pin install. Im curious if its normal to have a large hood/cowl gap in the rear? Front hood trim, lines up with the headlight buckets. the hood is a repop from NPD ( I think its only the 70 style hood)

Thats awesome @copb8 glad they helped you out! I've been going to these guys for years, best in the biz.

yes, I have this issue to. I think its most likely restricted now to keep the bots at bay from posting nsfw photos or ads. Hoping we can change the site soon.

thanks, since Im running an aftermarket 4 bolt main block (man-o-war block), the oil pan is a t-sump so I will need to check dimensions if its a low profile or stock locaiton.

from what I remember, NPD Owner commented about the popular brands getting their products from a few sources: Golden Legion & Yeou Wei Are Manufacturers. CJ's and Dynacorn are not manufacturers. If I were to wager, the skins you got from CJ where made by Ensuretech (ES) and the one got from Dynacorn were Yeou wei Link: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-70-door-skins.1222772/?post_id=10947363#post-10947363 He's commented on the whole process of manufacturing and which has the best ones, but for the life of me, I can't find the thread.

Im between adjustable motor mounts and reverting back to the stock mounts. if I go back to stock mounts, I wanted to modify them with countersunk bolts so I don't tear rubber insulation. Im leaning towards adjustable mounts, but Im not sure if that will interfere with anything, say maybe a 1/2 drop? I'm running long tubes, power steering w/drop ram bracket. Does anyone run them? any issues?

also try these guys, they are in California, they rebuild boosters, I had mine rebuilt by them since they were local to me. they also can powder coat it for you. they have locations in NV and Ca. https://powerbrakeexchange.myshopify.com/ 2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose, CA 95111 San Jose, CA 9511, 408 292 1305

Same, don't re-purchase the slave from MDL, buy it locally from the autoparts store. its a for a late 90s Nissan Pick up truck.

just wanted to see if there were better cooling tips or better brands out there than the basic stuff, just going to stick what I always done, use Concentrate + Distilled water + coolant additive.

Mach 1, you may be right, I thought he was talking about the brake booster - which I highly recommend sending it in for a rebuild and not replacing. however, I've seen some rebuilders do both MC and booster so that still could be a thing. in regards to the MC, its probably cheaper to get a replacement online, like summitracing, napa, oreilly auto and getting shipped if none are local, he just needs to know his bore size and swap over the pushrod before he tosses the old MC. I do recall some stores use to sell rebuild kits for MCs back in the day, but I think its just cheaper to replace now. My other suggestion is for op try http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ and see what he recommends he knows his OE brake/steering stuff.

just rebuild your unit, send it to that company in the video or the one I linked, or find someone local. not hard to look up in google search engine, plenty of vendors that can rebuild your unit.

I think thats the best route, aftermarket boosters don't last a year before failing again. Find a local rebuilder in Texas, you can usually ship them if they are faraway. I use these guys as they are local to me, but plenty of ppl ship it to them for rebuilds. Definitely worth the wait if you can't find a builder near you. Power Brake Exchange, 2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose Ca 95111 phone number 1 408 292 1305 https://pwrbrake.com/

gonna be tough with the brand, I bought it years ago but its a 24" 2 or 3 row I believe. for now, ill just do a prestone 50/50 since its already premixed and ill add a additive to help with cooling/lubricate the water pump. my go was driven CSP, but going to try VP Racing Cool Down Additive. VMF woodchuck helped I will also add a Sacrificial anode to help with electrosys.

I noticed my upper rad hose is swelling, so I figured a rad flush is in order. what coolant brand/ratio do you recommend? Livin in CA, temps around around 35-80+ depending on the season. Running 351w Man-o-war block made of nickel-iron-alloy AFR Aluminum heads and aluminum 24" Radiator w/ 13 lbs rad cap. also in regards to replacing the upper hose, do you add sealant at the water neck or leave as is? also, what water recommendations do you recommend? I've read distilled water is good/bad I have a disposable filtration system connected to my garden hose, would that work or should I just get the 50/50 mix and call it a day?

LT dont hang that low, not like some 289-302s headers. Since 351w are a taller deck, they tucker under pretty well, I run an external clutch slave/fork from MDL and everything clears including the p/s drop, never had an issue. The only thing that hangs real low is the magndaflow exhaust kit, the mufflers will scratch first prior than the LT headers and I run SOT Front coilovers and 3link rear.

I run these on my 427w, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969 I did have to use a drop bracket for the p/s setup, I highly recommend these heavy dutiy versions than the cheap ones scott drake sells as those will tear the frame eventually: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html?a=GoogleProductSearch&sessionthemeid=26&srsltid=AfmBOorzfz3pRboxGCNDMK_5GMyl_bgodvJtNP4k9-UsJRaI89fhn4GVMfw

Hi @Brian Conway cant see the pics, seems the site is still going through spam issues. Feel free to email pics djash03@gmail.com if you want. Still deciding on which I like best, I've seen a couple of Distinctive Industries/TMI so I might pull the trigger DI.

Picked up a set of 70 Mach 1 seats with the grey stripe with minor tears but showing its age. I am wondering who makes the best covers? So far its TMI, Disctinctive Industries and Cobranda are the only companies that make them. Has anyone used cobrandas covers? The description says its has the correct grain/weave pattern. Also, how hard is it to change it the cover? I did my std buckets but wasn't sure if there is anything different with the High buckets.