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Everything posted by rwcstang

  1. no issue, you may need to bend the light tabs to fit snug, the only issue I had was the inner headlight trim ring that attached to the spring was harder to mount, but should fit very tight when in place.
  2. found these if you want the factory look aswell. these might be my next pick up if these lights fail. https://www.deltalights.com/classic-5-3-4-hi-lo-beam-led-headlight-kit-/p25
  3. @lalojamesliz I have the 6000k. From Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html Octane lighting link: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
  4. Good to know, I had the owner of dapper lighting messaged and try to educate me on why other brands are bad and his products are the best, but when I asked if he was going to give me a discount or at least a set for me to test, he denied it. Funny, I have friends who has their product and they got a set for free by asking. maybe I dont have a popular coupe/fastback or enough followers in Instagram? lol why educate me with all that info, if you are not going to at least give me a discount or give me a free set to try out and promote them. Either way, Im not going to pay $400(w/ options)+ plus on headlights. Octane lighting was great with my order, I purchased them through their amazon store or you can also buy from the web page: https://www.octanelighting.com/ $199+
  5. I have Octane lighting LED Headlight conversion. Good lighting, but didn't like that the front lens is plastic and clear and doesn't have any design/pattern to help with the direction of lighting/glare. however, its very bright.
  6. Check your PVC Valve, may be a good time to connect it to the manifold, also a catch can woudn't hurt either. You can also check your spark plugs for fouling, and check your valve cover bolts they may be lose or check valve cover gasket, if its cork, they are prone to leaking on to the exhaust manifold/header. I had something like this happen to me twice, my avenger (offshore heads) had bad valve seals and guides failed. which pretty much snow balled into just building a 408w with good brand parts. Good Luck!
  7. not sure if this is the answer you are looking for: https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/14141757-are-three-row-aluminum-radiators-better-than-two more rows meant more surface area in contact with the fin and consequently a higher heat rejection. So a 3 row was better than a two row and so on. When aluminum radiators came around the rules changed. Cooling engineers concluded that by lowering the fin height you could stack more layers of tubes. In addition, using wider tubes would increase the tube-to-fin contact area. The end result was a very high performance radiator with a huge savings in weight.
  8. what are you HP Goals for your 408w? if under 450hp, I think the 1 5/8 will be fine. Anything above that, you may need to go bigger, your biggest restrictors will be 1 5/8 header and intake (if you stick with a stock or performer intake), a airgap or torker might be better but may require you to run a cowl hood. I never tried tri-ys, Ive read tri-ys traditionally give you nice power but sacrifice on top end rpm. this is an old school type header so Im not too sure about flow. Im getting a 408w built too, after my old avenger heads decided to fail on my 393w, again..lol. I was out putting 365rwhp 400rwtq with tko600/3:50 gears. I was running 1 5/8 headman headers and a stealth weind instake. it was great for street use! but since Im going with more power 470-500hp, I need to upgrade the headers to 1 3/4. I decided to go with FPA and they are making me a stepped header 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 and possibly port out my stealth intake.
  9. Couple of questions for you: What size diameters of those headers are those in the picture? 1 5/8 or 1 3/4? if you do not know the brand, get metal brush or something to scrub the flanges there may be a part number stamped on this will help you id in Summit or google if its ment for your application. Maybe not a requirement, but what are you current mods with the engine? from the looks of those pictures, it may be 1 5/8 header (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969) maybe 1 3/4? 1 5/8 will fit like a glove on my 393w, you can also try http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/headers2.htm roughly 1k+ but there is a delay and he is working on a backlog of orders. Almost all owners on here use FPA or some other brand headman, JBA and Hooker headers. I use the original steering but there are some owners with unisteer that can help with your issue.
  10. Thanks Ed, this is exactly what Im looking for! however the price is too high for some piece of metal, as ebay sells it for cheaper. Currently my driver side trim panel decided to crack and split in the middle, I was thinking of stripping it and fixing the crack with some JB Weld before it becomes two pieces.
  11. Has anyone purchased these repop upper trim panels? Looks like NPD link doesn't sell them, CJ sells only the passenger side but no reviews, trying to stay away from CJPP. https://www.ebay.com/itm/292825604336?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
  12. FYI to anyone debating a SOT CoilOver kit: SOT will be doing a price increase after their current stock is done. So best to pull the trigger now!
  13. One thing I've noticed about the repops: the mounting screw holes are not positioned correctly for the molding to sit flush against the body. I've seen ppl re-drilling a new hole or removing material in the existing hole to make it sit flush. Even when flush, The repops tends to expand the window rail molding. I know a dremel tool can fix that and remove some material, only thing is I need to figure out how much material I need to remove. These molds are its not a major issue for me so I can live with it, but visually, it get be made to fit nicely with out any mods.
  14. I believe you can, but its a matter of modifying the hydraulic line/couplers. I believe TCP sells two versions, one to retain your PS pump and the other is their aftermarket pump.
  15. yes, I have a tko600, I originally had this installed in my old c4. when I converted to a manual it was an easy swap as I had a 157 flywheel.
  16. Never used it, but something similiar, I have is" https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cvs-5055 also bought a starter heater wrap since I run long tube headers, never had an issue.
  17. well good news from my engine builder, He was able to source a set of AFR 205s. so thats something off the waiting list of parts Im waiting for.
  18. I have Street or Tracks front Coilover setup with stock power steering/spindles. Easy install, fun to drive! never went with a Rack and Pinion, because of Header selection, I Think TCP would be top tier kit to go with, other rack n pinion kits have mixed reviews.
  19. yeah, I don't care much for the material, just as long as it doesn't crumble or melt under the sun, but if 3d model was dipped in chrome, I don't think it would be an issue.
  20. thanks for the link, going to work with my Machine shop to confirm what CC heads they need.
  21. exactly what Im dealing with now. would be great if I learned how to use CAD/3D print which I would make my own set. Im surprised Daniel Carpenter is not making these sets, Ebay sellers are inflating the price.
  22. Looking for a pair of original QTR Moldings for a coupe, didn't like how the repops fit. Im also looking for the following: Driver side upper door cover plate for standard interior (where the innner window felt belt line mounts to) w/ alignment brackets.
  23. yep, currently still awaiting for my AFR 205 heads to arrive. I was suppose to get it mid July and now its being pushed back to August. Kinda frustrating, but with this current buy out, I believe all production may have stopped. Most likely, all top tier heads will be pushed to be manufactured in a different state out of CA where it is cheaper or have it made in China as their low tier heads are being massed produced there. Currently looking at other options, i.e Trick Flow, but they are back ordered until October or next year. seems all Manufacturing are delayed until next year,
  24. Yes, the kit came with everything, Im not too into wiring, however, the shop I installed it at had no issue and was a straight forward install since my wires were original and not touched/modified prior. definitely one of my favorite things about the car. I dont need to add any additional gauges like oil pressure, water temp, this gauge kit has everything that you need, the two LCD Displays helps alot when on the road, as I get an accurate reading. I highly recommend RTX to anyone who is debating about going with this kit.
  25. this is the current set up I have: Brakes: I have an old brake kit called Vintage Venom 13" Cobra front and rear, they are no longer in business. however, running modern wheels you will need to run a spacer but that varies depending on if your brake setup retains the original track width. I've seen ppl use 1" - 1.5" spacers for the front and 1/2 spacers for the rear. again, I would take measurements before pulling the trigger. Wheels: 99-04 18x9/10 Fr500s from Americanmuscle.com 18x9: https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-fr500-style-solid-black-wheel-18x9-28474g94.html 18x10: https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-fr500-style-solid-black-wheel-18x10-rear-only-28477.html Tires: Bfgoodrich sport comp2 245/40/18 (Front) 275/40/18 - they are quite robust and might rub, so you might need to roll your fenders, after I did this it never gave me an issue. Since im going with more power with the 408w, ill be changing tires and going with Michelins SS or Falken azenis rt615k+ to get a little more grip. Good Luck with your build!
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