mwye0627

Yep.  He was my favorite drag racer.  Always gave the Chevy guys fits!  I liked his 429 Boss Thunderbirds.

Here's what my flock of flamingos look like after viewing the hood:

They were bowled over!

A quick  video on the engine start up after 2 years. Sounds great.
 
IMG_8223.TRIM.MOV

Made my day.

The mustang dash is only 1 1/2 inches narrower than the 56 ,a 3/4inch spacer on each side and the mustang dash will easily fit .i will cut the mounting bar out of the mustang and the dash and brake pedal will bolt in ,just have to make a trim panel to fit up to the windshield .when i am finished the 56 will have power windows ,air bags ,anti lock brakes,and the full mustang interiormotor and transmission ,and i just found out the 2007 gt has a 5 speed automatic 

Had a photo op this morning and took it. Back under the cover.

Klaus Arning was quite the engineer. He also designed the IRS for the early Mustang, and certainly doesn't get enough credit.

Here’s a close-up of my harness wrapping

Must be a 70 model. Only the two headlights.

Well, Canted -  you're definitely second on my list right now!  Mike is edging you out ever so slightly right now!   ;-)  Thanks for the offer tho!

I would recommend first removing all clothes for a full body paint job...
 

HI Mike....I actually have 4 grandkids...the 4th one was at home, couldn't make it.
As an over detailed oriented engineer, of course I have built a spreadsheet to track all of my wiring terminations, as I will be using a lot of extra "boxes" in my build...   EFI computer, Dash computer, PWM fan controller, digital ignition box, power amp, etc, etc.
I have attempted to paste one page of it here, I would be willing to share it in about a week or so when I get it to the point where it is a working copy.    Pre-planning this really helps minimize the rework and rewiring, the number of splices/connectors, and having last minute loose wires laying around.  It also is critical if you have to do troubleshooting during power up of the car.   
The first 3 columns are used to track the install.... R is routed, L is landed, T is tested The 4th column is the load/device which is to be wired up The 5th  column will list the fuse that feeds it (AAW does not provide this) The 6th column is the AAW circuit branch that the load is fed from The 7th column is the origin point of the wire that feeds the load The 8th column is the AAW wire number, or a simple wire number that I have assigned  The 9th column is the wire color The 10th and 11th columns are functional descriptions about what the wire does, like Gnd (Ground), BAT (battery hot all the time), KOH (Key on Hot), Switched (on/off) The 12th column is the type of connector used The 13th and 14th columns are key items, they show the "from" and "to" for the wire The 15th column is for any special interface with one of the boxes (VHX, PWM, EFI, etc) The 16th through the last column are how the wire is routed.  It shows the originating location, the route it takes, and the destination location.  I use this so I can consolidate the wires when I bundle and route them.  The abbreviations are for areas of the car that the wires go from-through-to UD - Under Dash FW Pen - Firewall Penetration Number PC - Passenger Compartment DFW - Drivers Firewall DRC - Drivers rocker channel PRC - Passenger rocker channel TK - Trunk etc, etc, etc.    

Why is it they can fold and curl their way onto a 2x2 cushion but they need the ENTIRE couch to watch TV and a WHOLE king size bed at night?

I decided to quit rebuilding my 1985 Sears 24 gal 5hp 220v compressor and buy another. After searching online I decided to buy an Ingersoll Rand 60 gal 5hp 220v unit. 
Pay for it, they load one which is covered with a big plastic bag from the back off the store with a forklift and I'm gone. Two of my old codger neighbors are admiring the compressor after I unload it and they mention the size of it. I say it's only a 60 gal then show them the info tag still on the compressor. 
Wtfresno?
Looked up the specs, that dude is $350 more than I paid.  Merry Christmas to me. 

Many of the linear actuators like I seen on the electric parking brake come with limit switches at both ends of the ram travel, I have used some that have positionable limit switches in the past.   With the limit switches you can use them to send a signal to the controller to shut the motor off, then the next time the button is pressed the controller will reverse direction until the ram contacts the "home" limit switch.  The ones with limit switches at each end of the travel are more popular.   They will have a fixed stroke such as 2 inches or 4 inches, etc..
To use these, you would have to make sure that the 2 or 4 inches of stroke are adequate to apply your parking brake.   That should be pretty simple, just make sure your cables are fairly snug with no slack and the actuator should be great for holding the car on a hill, etc.   However, they are very slow to extend and retract, so you should never attempt to use them as an emergency brake.
Here is an example of one from Surplus Center that may be usable.   a 2" stroke with a 110 Lb. Push / Pull rating.  It should be pretty simple to build a sturdy enclosure that you could mount under the car...
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/GlideForce/1-96-Stroke-110-lbs-12-Volt-DC-Linear-Actuator-With-Sensor-5-1577-2.axd

Never.....ever like seeing these types of pictures (especially a beautiful ‘69). Just really hope the occupants were miraculously ok (hopefully since it wasn’t mentioned as a fatal crash).

Ouch! SD is proud of those. I picked up a pair from Wesco for under $100.

You can see the emotion his dad had with the car, so many memories.
Great resto on the falcon.

Well really, who doesn't just love the look of these cars?

Yes Bob,  they are a quality tool. I received a set of snap ring pliers  as a gift. Thanks for passing on the discount code. 
Speaking of SEMA, what was your take this year? The Velocity channel coverage I saw was crap, just interviews of the "talent" for current Velocity shows. 

Took some pics of my door panels before finishing the drivers side thought I'd show the difference between buying Quality Premium Panels vs OEM grade. The difference in thickness makes it a bit more difficult to mount a couple items the door handle opening needs to have the backing cut down almost to the vinyl to get them to slide in & the remote mirror hole is a pain to get cut to a thickness the nut will hold in the correct spot. These are Premium Grade purchased from Cal-Mustang.
 

Not me...I'm more of a Lawrence Welk kind of guy...with a dash of Led Zep thrown in.

Carbon Fiber fender supports.  Engine cover to go in between.

A billet torque converter for a street car?