fordguy69

I couldn't find one a few years ago. Ended up making one myself.

On the outside like the top picture. I cut a small piece of thin rubber to put in between the brace and the valence and used a stainless socket head bolt to attach it. I think they were black from the factory? All of the ones I have taken off have been rust colored though. You can't really see them when everything is bolted together unless you really look for them.

I have been looking at the Ron Francis harnesses for the car I am working on now. They are cheaper than Painless and look like their systems are a lot more flexible. I have used Painless before and their stuff is nice, but they have gotten extremely pricey IMO.

My FiTech works fantastic with a fairly large cam. The FiTech has 4 settings for the cam in the software. I found that mine runs best on 3. My cam duration is 238/246 @.050 and pulls about 10.5 inches of vacuum at idle. I have read that some folks with only 8 inches or so are running the FiTech on 4 and it works great. I don't use the FiTech timing option only because I already had my MSD ready to run set up and curved before I installed the EFI, 19 degrees initial, 36 total all in by 3000. (Timing specs suggested by the cam grinder and he was dead on.)

More importantly, it looks like the sheep on the floor has fallen and can't get up!

If this is a 69 column, you have a collapsible column and the bottom of the shaft will move. Simply pull it down enough to engage the rag joint properly and you are good to go. Get the bolt in the yoke on the steering box so that it is engaged properly and pull the shaft down to meet it. They sometimes take a bit of persuasion to get them to move but it will.

Not sure what they were originally made of. One of my coupes had some cardboard looking stuff that had nearly disintegrated and the other didn't have a headliner at all! I just used some 3/4 inch wide aluminum strips and drilled the holes in the appropriate place for the tabs that come up from the package tray. No barbs necessary on this one. The indentation on the package tray will show you how long they need to be. One of my coupes, the metal package tray tabs had been broken off, so I just used some short sheet metal screws to hold down the aluminum. The barbed tabs on the pillar should have the barbs facing out away from the body and pointing down towards the floor. When you stretch the headliner down, you just then push it back towards the pillar and the barbs bite into it and hold it stretched. Tried to google some photos but can't find anything.

In addition to the tack strips on the pillars, there are plates that go over two sheetmetal tabs on the far corners of the package tray. After you get the headliner stretched properly and into the tack plates, the remaining tail of the headliner goes down to the package tray and the plates are put over the headliner and two tabs come up from the package tray to secure it.

I have several thousand miles on mine and love it. I have a fairly large roller cam with only 10.5 inches of idle vacuum and the Fitech handles it beautifully. I have had zero issues with mine. I have the GoEFI 8 system and used an aeromotive phantom stealth in tank pump, #8 (1/2) feed and return lines. I doubt that I will ever use a carb again.

Looks just like the hole I hacked in mine when I was a teenager to put in a Hurst Vertigate shifter on a toploader. Now 35 years later, I was cursing myself when I had to repair the trans tunnel for the complete rebuild I just did.

I used TMI upholstery and foam for my 69 and my 87. Got them from NPD. Very pleased with them. They look great and fit perfectly. I like TMI's stuff generally.

Flux capacitor activation switch panel.

May want to check with Scotty J as well. http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/custom_camshafts He ground a cam for me that absolutely hit every goal I wanted. Dude really knows his Fords.

Ride tech. Bag it!

Not nearly enough back spacing on that wheel.

I did mine with jackstands under the torque boxes. Came out great. However it did not have the drivetrain. With the drivetrain installed, I would probably support it under the radiator support as well.

Back when all the wiped cam lobe problems started, people were recommending Rotella T because it still had high levels of ZDDP, I think because the diesel oils were not reduced yet. But now I have read where the diesel oils have all had their ZDDP reduced too. So you may want to research that if you have a flat tappet cam.

There is a little flange on the inside of the trim and there IS a screw holding it on. Some times the window fuzzy covers it up.

Mustang Market here too. Great pieces.

That won't be an issue with Gary's LED's. They are wicked bright. The high lumen back up lights are like fog lights. They actually allow you to see to back up at night.

Do you have reproduction headlight buckets? If so, there are some reproduction pieces out there with the tab cutouts in the wrong place. I ran into that with my 69. Had to cut and weld them to get them in the right place. NPD's website even mentions this in their product description.

Vintage LED's are the best on the market IMHO. I used Gary's tail lights, front turn signals and back up lights. They are extremely well built and function beautifully. The LEDs he uses are very high quality. I couldn't be happier with them.

Most of the cam companies now offer hydro lifters with EDM face oiling instead of the loose tolerance bodies or grooves. Puts the oil directly between the lifter face and the cam lobe. And it more precisely meters the extra oil instead of just blowing past the lifter body.

I don't have discs on the rear, but I do have manual brakes with a Wilwood master cylinder that they recommended for the application. They work great. Make sure you use the proper manual pedal. The leverage point is very different for the manual brakes. If you use the power pedal, you will not like your brakes! Mustang Steve has the info on the pedals on his site.