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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/16/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    newstang

    Lower Radiator hose spring

    I dont know why none of the hoses come without a spring in the hose anymore. the rubber is no stronger and probably softer than before, so i doubt technology will be there for us when it collapses and overheats. So in case you cant find one ( like me) here is how i made mine in 2 min. 3/32 stainless steel tig wire 1" black pipe and vise grips/ Problem solved! Pics are out of order, but you get the point,
  2. 1 point
    danno

    Alternator questions

    I have had a NAPA rebuilt alt in my car for years with no problems. But I am never more than 20 miles away from a NAPA store if it needs replacement. I would also guess new ones are really cheap, unless you need a high amp alternator or a single wire one. The reasons you might need a high amp alternator is if you have halogen headlights or an electric radiator fan. Both of those are large power hogs. A amplifier for your radio typically does not take that much power. A lot of people think it does, but that is not reality. So a standard 60 amp alternator could work fine, I have used it for 30 years, even with AC, high power amplifiers, and halogen headlights. A solid state regulator is a good idea at the same time. It is also a good idea to insure all the wires and connectors are secure and clean. Send your engine harness to Midlife and have him check it over, that will remove all doubt. Get on the road, summer is coming!
  3. 1 point
    newstang

    1 Wire Alternator

    you get rid of all of it. cap off any wires coming from the ignition switch that go to the stator. yellow wire to bat terminal on alt, white wire goes to single terminal on top of alt, green wire really not used but goes to "Alt" dash light. of course, run the 4ga battery cable to the battery.
  4. 1 point
    Um i would take a 71 Baracuda ...and runs and hides !
  5. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    Craig from New Zealand

    Front end is coming along.
  6. 1 point
    Aaaand... it’s wired. Good news! Dash lights aren’t shorting to ground! Branching the grounds and dash light power took forever... I started on it at around 5pm and finished around 10pm. Breaks in there, but not many. @Midlife buddy... you aren’t charging enough!
  7. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    Craig from New Zealand

    All hands on deck to make the deadline :)
  8. 1 point
    Print Dad

    Need a spark plug gap for my engine

    Hello Big Duke6 I have been running fords since the mid 60's and NEVER had much luck with CHampion plugs in a Ford. I think a good starting point for the gap is 35 and then you can adjust after running the motor and reading the plugs. There are a lot of charts that will show the color of the porcelain after running. I think 35 is a good starting gap - make sure the plug wires are run to the correct plug. You would be surprised how well the motor may seem to run with 2 wires crossed Best of LUck - Sam
  9. 1 point
    Midlife

    Need a spark plug gap for my engine

    Step 1: Find another mechanic.
  10. 1 point
    newstang

    69 Vert project

    Its on its feet today!. I put it up on the lift and the clearance of the exhaust to the block/ bellhousing is closer than i thought. This is the 3rd set of different headers to have this issue. I may have to cut off an angle of the block or anyone else run into this crap? Or-- what are the the thoughts of adding a spacer between the block and manifold to bring it out a 1/2"
  11. 1 point
    Installed the console gauges, cleaned her, took her for a cruise
  12. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    Ignition kill switch with key

    Here is what I believe the easiest way to disable the car. You can use any kind of switch you like- toggle, key, etc. What sort of coil do you have? I ask because the switch has to have a high enough amp rating to run the coil. The car will crank but not start.The disadvantage of this circuit is that if the ignition switch is left on by the thief, then the coil is left on, and could over heat, but I've been using this system on various cars since the 60s with no problem. It works by shorting the points. If the points don't open and close, then the coil doesn't work- it must be pulsing DC to create a continuing spark. KILL SWITCH (3).pdf
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Center caps still on the way
  15. 1 point


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