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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/30/2022 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    A big day off to the paint shop!
  2. 2 points
    Well i was in RPMs neck of the woods today in beautiful down town Bakersfield ,had to buy a new toy ! Now i am in no way a Chrysler guy but what the hell ! 2014 Challenger RT fully loaded ,remote start ,after market exhaust ,Stereo system,black leather with swade inset seats ,sport mode ,paddle shifter ,super track pack and runs like a scalded ape! Had to kick it on the way back just once ,stomped it to the floor as it hit third and roasted the tires.
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    More interior work. I trimmed the rear carpet installed the rear fiberglass panels, got a custom color paint for the package tray and installed the rear seats.
  5. 2 points
    I went on an expedition into the deepest darkest reaches of my shop ...people have been known to dissapear in there ,well not really ,but a lot of parts have mysteriously vanished there ! I found 3 1937 hoods ,2 36 hoods and a bunch of headlights ,some with the stainless trim rings . I had forgotten i made rear fender molds ,and one side running board mold ,probably because right after i made the molds i found steele fenders ,and there is still more to dig out ,the green molds are for a model t go cart i used to build and may make again . I have to find a place to put it and keep it all together .
  6. 2 points

    New shock tower is not perfect

    Use an export brace to ensure the upper structures of the shock tower are in alignment.
  7. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Just a little somthin for me!

    I love these seats ,black leather with black swade insets but they are a bit hard to get into with the wrap around on the seat backs ,it doesnt give much but feels good when you are setting in them . Back seat has quite a bit of room also ,but those quarter sails are impossible to see around . I like the navigation but most of all i like the fact that it has dials for the radio ,heater and AC instead of the touch screen crap .they had installed Corsa exhaust ,quiet at an idle and normal driving but when you step on it you know it .i looked it up and that cost $2,000. It has factory 3:92 gears as part of the super track pack and it turns around 2200 rpms at 60 mph . it even has one of those new fangled BOOM BOOM radios ,you know the kind ,the kind that rattles your windows when they pull up next to you . On the way home my brother asked what that boom was coming from the trunk area ,i told him it was the sub woofers BOOM BOOM BOOM HAHA!
  8. 1 point

    A/C Thermostat switch question

    Cool, just what is hoped for. A big thanks to you both.
  9. 1 point
    Rich Ackermann

    More Factory AC Wiring Questions :)

    Here is a picture of the green wire with a black round female plug at the firewall. John is correct it is part of the harness that includes the wipers, tach wire, neutral safety switch, oil and temp sender wires, and PRNDL shifter light. The other end of the green wire should terminate near the airbox blower motor with a single square spade plug, along with a couple of other related green wires with square plugs.
  10. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Just a little somthin for me!

    Last minute decision and had to get there fast ,got home even faster !
  11. 1 point
    Rich Ackermann

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Hi Vic, Yes, I used Ford 1971-73 rubber door jamb boots. They have plenty of space to run wires, they look stock if that matters, and they fit in the stock door jamb and kick panel positions on a 1969-70. The factory grommet hole sizes are larger on a 69-70 than the 71-73. If you have the luxury of drilling fresh holes, than the kick panel hole is 1 1/4" and the door jamb hole is 1 5/8". You can use the factory dimples if you have them. IF you are retrofitting them into a door that already has factory holes, then I suggest cutting off the grommets from the 69-70 harness and inserting the 71-73 boot ends into each of the 69-70 factory grommets or inserting them into another grommet of similar size. I had a factory door and a repro door, so unfortunately I had to do one of each. Inserting the boot ends into the factory grommets worked well, but just for added assurance, I used some black 3m rubber weather-strip glue to make certain they stayed together. They are many to choose from on eBay. Here is a set of 1987 Ford boots that look to be the same as the 71-73 boots.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160428669?hash=item4bb512647d:g:n0EAAOSwwp1iZDXr Then again you could find a set of aftermarket boots. https://www.keepitcleanwiring.com/catalog/Wire-Management/Billet-Door-Looms/KICDLOOMBLBK/12-Inch-Black-Stainless-Steel-Door-Loom---Pair Below is a picture of the 71-73 boots installed in my 70 Mach 1 (Top Left) using the factory holes, Installed in my 73 vert (Top & bottom RIght), and a pair of boots (Bottom Left).
  12. 1 point

    What are these?

    To me they look like alignment dowels between the rear block and tranny. What size do they measure?
  13. 1 point
    One end of it should have a slight curl to it ,that end goes up ,the flap goes under the fiberglass
  14. 1 point
    The "CORRECT" 1969 351W 4V and 390 tips have a 1-3/4" I.D. inlet, so even the stock 2" tailpipes used on 351W & 390 reduce down at the ends to slip into these tips. Front pipes & transverse muffler were all 2" as well ... the 351W H-Pipe on the other hand is 2-1/4". 1968-69 428 cars had full 2-1/4" exhaust from the H-Pipe to the tips. Instead of using the same restrictive and separate tips the 351W & 390 cars used, the 428 cars came with special 2-1/4" tailpipes with the SS. Twin Tips welded right to the end of the tailpipes for much better flow, picture & details here: https://www.scottfullerreproductions.com/catalog/item/4595229/4650641.htm Back in the 80's, I put reproduction big block 2-1/4" exhaust on my 351W car because I was told by the seller it would bolt right up to a stock 351W H-Pipe ... YES IT DOES. To be able to use the stock tips, I crimped the ends of the 2-1/4" tailpipes down to slip into the 1.75" inlets of the stock tips. My 1st set of tips were the Ford replacements that were just plain chrome plated steel (without the correct rolled S.S. tips), I got these in 1984. Once correct reproductions made of S.S. with the rolled tips became available in 2005, I bought a pair of these ... my chrome ones were pretty rusty by then anyway. In 2019, I bought a pair of the custom-made S.S. tips that are externally identical to the O.E. tips but have a 2-1/2" inlet and ZERO internal restriction like the O.E. tips have. They are works of art !! Cut my restrictive ends off of my 2-1/14" tailpipes and welded on 2-1/4" I.D. to 2-1/2" O.D. adapters and removed that bottle neck !! Read all the details in the thread I posted on the subject here: New '68-69 Rolled Lip Exhaust Tips with 2.5" Inlet - 1969-70 Technical Forum - 69stang.com and 1969stang.com The 1969 and 1970 Mustang Supersite Terry ... in previous threads, you have stated you want to put the largest size exhaust on your car that will fit for the least restriction, so you would then want to use these 2.5" I.D. inlet tips to finish it off and make it look stock !! Doug
  15. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    Haha ,1978 ,that was a great year haha! My first 35 i actually built in high school ,it had a stake bed that i built because i couldnt find a good truck bed ,i later found a good one and painted the whole thing emerald green
  16. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    This is my old 1923 C cab delivery . The body was fiberglass by AI fiberglass ,a well known shop in the 60s and early 70s .the fenders ,running boards ,fender aprons hood are Rootlieb steel . Had a 289 ,C4 ans a narrowed t bird 9 inch ,the front end was a Heidts model A super ride that i had them narrow 1 inch on each side ,with will wood disk brakes ,it was a kick in the but !
  17. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    A friend just called me and said his friend has all 4 fenders for a 35 ford pick up ,not sure what he wants for them but if it isnt a million you bet i am interested ! Rear fenders are nearly impossible to find as they were the first thing smashed on these old trucks . What do you want to bet this leads to another truck ? Thats is the way it starts ,thats the way it happens ,one leads to two ,two leads to three and i wants more !
  18. 1 point

    New shock tower is not perfect

    Ya, spending some time now checking might save you some trouble later. I'd use a digital level at the rear torque box, Front rails at torque box, and the front of the front rails.
  19. 1 point

    New shock tower is not perfect

    I think maybe your frame rail maybe twisted also. You probably need to try to determine if it is or not and if it is you may have to weld the tower to the frame rail with it sitting flush like it is suppose to be and then put a comealong winch on it some how and pull it back where it belongs.
  20. 1 point

    Is a 1969 A-C Vacuum Canister Rebuildable?

    For future reference, the purpose of the can is to store vacuum. If you choose the above solution, make sure to put a check valve on the inlet side of the can so it will hold the stored vacuum when you get on the throttle. Otherwise the vacuum will drop when you get on the throttle and your AC/heater will not blow from your set position until you get off the throttle and vacuum builds up again.
  21. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .

    I got the rest of the old cut up dash out ,someone in 1936 welded the crap out of it when the put it in new ,i had a hard removing it ,now the replacement will go right in . I forgot i had bought these doors several years ago ...$75 ,probably the straightes doors i have seen with absolutely no rust ,i had taken them to bare metal and never primed them so they have a little flash rust ,i hit a small spot on driver door with metal prep and it took that right off so i will do both doors . These doors fit even better than my other set .
  22. 1 point
    1969 Mach 1s had Quad tips and 1970 Mach 1s had oval tips.
  23. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    New shock tower is not perfect

    Measure between the towers ,you shouldnt cut it untill you make sure it will be the right distance between them
  24. 1 point
    following in Andy Worhol's footsteps
  25. 1 point
    New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters.
  26. 1 point
    your sensor of the fan activity should be located at the exit of the radiator/entrance to the engine (lower hose). basically, if the radiator (without fans) is able to adequately cool the fluid before it enters the engine, then there is no point in turning on the fans or have them turned up. locating that sensor in the intake manifold will basically have you running the fans more necessary. which of course won't hurt beyond consuming a little more energy/power at certain times.
  27. 1 point
    Well, since it isn't OEM, then no one but American Auto Wire can tell you how its wired- we have no diagrams for their products. However, if you have a tach, then you should have an alternator warning light instead of an ammeter, and the light should come on in "Accy", or "ON". The dual brake warning light should come on in "Start"- that's part of the prove out circuit. If so equipped you could have a seat belt light, and a park brake light. The seat belt light would come on with "Accy or "ON", and go out in less than a minute. The park brake light would come on in "ON" or "Start" if the brake is on.

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