Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/06/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area
  2. 2 points
    buening

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
  3. 2 points
    1969vert

    my 1969 project

    I know its not the same car ( in this project report forum ) but.. I own it also.. down to only 4 mustangs.. Sold my wife's 2012 A little E-85 test last Friday night at HRP video-1616810442.mp4
  4. 1 point
    Mach1 Driver

    69 Headlight switch wiring

    Heck it isn't even the crack of dawn yet and I'm up already, see below Mustang Wire Diagram.pdf
  5. 1 point
    buening

    wilwood brakes or SOT Brakes

    2013-2018 ATS. Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file. I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.
  6. 1 point
    Did some interior work today. Touch up on original parts. I have new seat covers and door panels on the way.
  7. 1 point
    I have a stock 302 now. I may go to a 331 in the next year with an AOD. These will work with that. Don't see the need for long tube and clearance issues. I know these have worked in many applications and I did not want a hassle. Wheels and tires are: Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear You can see it here:
  8. 1 point
    detompkins

    1969 Boss 302

    Calipso coral good driver quality. New complete brake system, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and flywheel. Goodyear Polyglass on new correct repo wheels. Good paint very, very little rust . Previous owner patched rear frame arch poorly. I have repair frame patches but not installed. Previous owner installed drag pack oil cooler. This is not a drag pack car. Car is located in Sarasota Florida. $62,500. Please contact if interested by email to start a discussion. detompkins427@gmail.com
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    You've got your work cut out for you brother. Welcome to the circus.
  11. 1 point
    TexasEd

    New headers on the way

    Fitment was great. I had to pass the drivers side up from under the car because of the brake booster being in the way and you have to tighten spark plugs 7&8 with a wrench attached to the spark plug socket but other than that it was easy.
  12. 1 point
    I got my old exhaust manifolds off. They were leaking and I thought the passenger side was cracked until I got them off. Turns out that the collector gasket was bad. No matter. Going to install the DBA shorties.
  13. 1 point
    Me either.....when I saw Randy was involved I should have scrolled by....lol
  14. 1 point
    BuckeyeDemon

    69 mach 408w build

    looks great. i hate masking. I'm also not to worried about overspray in the cabin area (except trunk and dash). i spent several house masking when prepping to paint the cage, just to prevent having to sand overspray from the other surfaces when it's time to final sand those (and prevent dirt from getting blown out from goofy places like the roof area). I spent most of the evening tuesday night masking the cage to prevent it from getting any oversprays....
  15. 1 point
    This is the working bay. Pictured in house remodel mode. All the crap on the floor to the right is that stuff (and my chili pot). Router on the left, table saw out, and I forgot why the welder was involved. As much as I hate to say it, the is situation normal. Too much stuff and too little room. As for tools there's an Atlas lathe and Clausing mill lurking back there I guess.
  16. 1 point
    One advice from me; build more than what you think you need. Built a 54X42 over 10 years ago as my 16x20 shop was getting small; looked like this. Now it looks like this.
  17. 1 point
    Don't know about the smartest nor richest (I'm broke lol) and I bought a field to plant this building and house in, I am sick of raking leaves... ... unless those trees did produce money, then I might plant a few dozen...
  18. 1 point
    copb8

    Original appearing LED dash lights

    I also bought the Mustang Project LED Light Kit but in the new Aqua color. https://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=7aba057b-3612-4e2a-a00f-41403e1f5d86 I installed them a couple of months ago but I left all the original diffusers in place. I also did the high beam and turn signal lights. They made a huge improvement. I can now read my gauges without my glasses. They're not so bright that the are obviously aftermarket but they're just bright enough that they probably look like they did they day the car was purchased. They are also dimmable. For some reason I forgot to take pictures and unfortunately the car is out of pocket at the moment. Once I get back to it I'll take a couple and post them up. Overall, I highly recommend spending the $50.00
  19. 1 point
    69RavenConv

    69 factory label decal placement?

    Looking at our unofficial registry here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10qylpOcZgQLu9SAvhtRhmjGS8Cg0B_y0MpJSU-poATk/edit#gid=370348491 I see that Jeff Tepper has an early November, 1968, San Jose build - very close to your build date. Jeff is a regular poster over on concoursmustang.com. I suggest joining that forum and sending Jeff a PM about where his decals are located. I'm sure he'd be glad to help. It's almost assured yours were in the same place. As an aside, my car is a June 1969 Dearborn build and has the engine spec decal on the passenger side inner fender. Nearly all cars built in Dearborn have it on the drivers side. It turns out there was a 2 or 3 month period where someone (ones?) at the plant did this and it's been documented. The other 10 zillion cars they made there had the decal on the drivers side. I know, I'm a geek.


×
×
  • Create New...