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  1. 4 points
    Midlife

    What should I fix first?

    What to fix first? Make sure your checkbook and/or savings account is 3x larger than what you think it needs to be.
  2. 3 points
    Mach1 Driver

    What should I fix first?

    Much of our old classics can be repaired with fairly basic tools like wrenches, sockets and screwdrivers. If you are mechanically inclined at all, you could get the manuals and do most of the work yourself. There are videos, books and lots of help on more than a few Mustang forums. Join a Mustang club and get to know the people who work on their cars.You would save lots of cash and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself, and probably doing it better than most shops. You could still pay to have those things done you don't feel comfortable doing. 10 grand at a shop doesn't go far on these beasts. It may seem daunting but many many people do their own suspension work. Its not rocket science. Look at your list- $475 for a clock? Come on, you could replace that, fix a rattle in the back seat, and adjust a window. I'll bet you could do almost all of that list, make friends and get lots of help here. Get your hands dirty! If you must pay a shop for all these things then prioritize- above all else the car must be safe so do the brakes and steering first. The speedometer is fairly important but replacing the cable and perhaps the speedo is far less expensive than installing a Dakota Digital- although I must admit I lust after one myself.
  3. 2 points
    danno

    What should I fix first?

    Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items. Brakes and steering first. Some of the prices and items seem way out of line. Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items. Repair things as they break.
  4. 2 points
    barnett468

    What should I fix first?

    If you are seriously considering having this shop do anything on your car, I strongly suggest they give you a separate price for every single item AND the exact brand and part number for each pat and the exact labor costs. The labor could be bulked together where several items in the same area are being changed at the same time like the front suspension. Then post that info and we can tell you for certain if you are getting hosed or not, but from what it looks like, you may very well be.
  5. 2 points
    JayEstes

    What should I fix first?

    Here's my take - some of that may be reasonable and some of it definitely is not. For instance, it's definitely not a good recommendation to put in performance suspension & handling for $5K. That's NOT mandatory. You can get new stock UCA's for lass than $50 per side (that's a lot cheaper than $350/side). Don't put in 620lb springs up front unless you want it to ride like a covered wagon. I think stock springs are 300 lb/in. Don't lower it, but instead: The top 3 upgrades for front suspension improvement are: Redrill your shock towers to do the "Shelby/Arning drop" (if not already done) with new UCA's ($20 template + $100 for both UCA's) Put in a 1in" sway bar. (best bang for the buck I think and makes the car safer to drive) $140 New KYB Gas Adjust shocks (Maybe $100 for both) After that, you'll need Tie rod bushings ($40ish), stock perches ($40), new spring seats ($10), some Tie-rod work So that's like $400, and it will drive fine (not like a racecar, but you won't shatter your teeth going over the railroad tracks either) On the rear, I would not buy new springs unless they can show you they are bent or ruined. Just New KYB gas adjust shocks and see how it is ($100), maybe new leaf spring bushings if she's rattly. Since there are traction bars, this will be more work. So that's maybe $200 on the rear, and most all the big stuck on suspension for like $600-$700 in parts. If you do this work yourself (only thing really dangerous in compressing front springs). If you want to pay to have this done, $1500 is probably not outrageous, but I wouldn't buy new leafs. if they say they are "shot" make them show you how. Brakes are most important: replace all the rubber brake lines, 3x maybe ~$50 each. The following statement however - makes NO SENSE to me: "Found rear brakes contaminated with rear axle gear oil." I have no idea how this could happen. Sound like BS to me, and I would ask about it. These systems are not connected, and I can't see how they could be thru parts failure, so I call BS. Get a new drivers drum if you can't find someone to machine it. New pads (cheap) and get new rear cylinders (cheap). My brake backing plates are grooved some, but still work ok - weld and remachine is a fair bit of expensive work, and I'd try it without doing that. They don't mention the brake distribution block or the proportioning valve. The prop valve should be taken off and have a new seal kit put it - virtual certainty it needs that ($35 for parts). --- Engine: That's an expensive radiator. I bought a 3-row copper for about $350. You can get a thermostat for $5, you probably don't need a fuel pipe - I wouldn't do that. If you flush out the fuel tank, there is no need to move the fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump (non stock). New rubber connections ($10), New fuel pump $30, new filter $5. That's all that's required. If they can show you the leaks on the manifold you should fix it. And you can look for this yourself, by simply wiping off the front and back and driving it around. If it's leaking oil you should be able to see it. personally, I don't need to remove the Ac compressor to work on the intake so - my opinion - not required. Your oil pan probably is leaking. Do you need to spend $1000 to fix it? NO. This is a hard job to get the old one off and put on a new one that doesn't leak, but honestly, you can keep the oil filled while you save some $'s to have it fixed later for cheaper than that. Fix the motor mounts. If they are original, they probably are cracked. $320 seems like an ok price to do that. Engine balancer MAY be needed.- if you can't get it to run. But if it runs/timing is OK, I'd do this later. For the love of God, do the all the AC/PS/alternator/fan belts yourself - any person driving a 69 oughta be able to do the belts. No idea on the improvised trans inspection plate, but it's probably fine (it's a piece of sheet metal to keep crap out of the flex-plate starter engage area). look at it yourself and see how bad it is. Trans mount is good chance it is bad. $125 seems reasonable I'd note the rear axle seals as something to watch, and do them later. That alone is like $300. buy your own heater hoses. $340 is outrageous unless he is putting Stainless braid on them. Elec: I don't know what he means "seat plugs" but they are dang expensive. Fix the electrical that's broken and nothing else. he's only giving you an AC diagnosis, which means there is another $1500 of cost to get the AC going probably. Can wait. Two windows at 60mph is usually okay for a lot of the US. Body: If the roof drip rails are leaking, that can allow body rust which you don't want. you are looking at a lot of cost that may affect the paint. so this is expensive. Depending on the quality level of your paint, this may or may not be worth it. Just do whatever to avoid rust. OMG - do NOT spend $600 on the damn clock - buy a wrist watch! $35!!! worst case - pull it yourself and mail it off to be fixed. Dash: LED light kit and printed circuit panel is all you need. your fuel gauge either works or doesn't. If it doesn't, I would change the sender in the tank for $30, and not buy a new gauge (which is probably fine, but inaccurate - they all are BTW). Steering wheel can probably wait at $1250!!! Good lord!. Fix the windows. those mechanisms probably need an overhaul - they are cheap systems, and if not adjusted properly, can bind and be really frustrating. UGH. That's a lot of stuff. I'm not a fan of having other dudes do my car work, and so I don't know about labor costs. Anything over $100hr is questionable. $80 may be reasonable. My costs above are for parts, not labor (all of mine is free, so I on'y see parts costs). This stuff is not that hard to fix yourself. It just takes time. If you have more $ than time - this shop may not be that bad, but there is some questionable stuff in here - other stuff looks reasonable. it's a mixed bag. Good luck.
  6. 2 points
    I look at it this way. I have plenty of time and it ain’t going anywhere. Plus if I don’t save the car it may end up at the crusher and be one more piece of history we never get back. And making a semi-track car out of it, originality doesn’t mean a thing. I haven’t really saw anything availability wise that worries me. It’s mind blowing what is available now versus when I had my 66 in high school 15 years ago.
  7. 2 points
    " So I got this from one of my best friends for $600." I think you need to find a new friend.
  8. 2 points
    I love driving down the road on a nice day. Top is down and the 69 is running good. That is the best feeling in the world until a cooler car comes up and passes you.
  9. 2 points
    barnett468

    What should I fix first?

    Well are those prices parts and labor? $340.00 for heater hoses? I would post exactly what radiator they are suggesting because it is likely pos small tube chinese one. I have a real 3 row large tube original style rad here that has a new us made core for sale.
  10. 2 points
    BuckeyeDemon

    69 mach 408w build

    checked the clutch/bell fit. had to shorten the TOB sleeve to clear the clutch discs. engine is finished with detail.
  11. 2 points
    1969vert

    What should I fix first?

    Brakes and steering first here also...
  12. 2 points
    barnett468

    Trunk weatherstrip question

    Here's one method. Remove the trunk lid to install the rubber. Use painters masking tape around every 8" to hold it in place. Tear 20 pieces of tape off and stick them around the edges of the trunk lid. Glue a short section at a time like around 12". Black glue is harder to see when it squeezes out beyond the gasket. Flammable contact cement can also be used.
  13. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Dakota Digital Install

    Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness. The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.
  14. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Automatic Convertible top question

    You could put a micro-switch on the hydraulic cylinder set at the correct "up" and "down position". All you need is a "seal in" relay, which keeps the circuit energized after you release the top button. Then, the micro-switch "breaks" the seal-in circuit at the right location, and the motor stops. The problem with this is that you need some kind of "emergency stop" to stop the top motion to avoid trapping fingers, hands, etc when the top is closing. For example, the emergency stop would be useful when you are closing the top and the girlfriend decides to stand on the passenger seat and dance to the "Humpty Hump".... Not that this would ever happen or anything.
  15. 1 point
    grendi

    What should I fix first?

    Make sure you don't buy cheap chinese UCA, I got the scott drake 4-rivet ones after one of my china crap UCAs locked up after 2 years and so far, they work. If I would buy today, I might also consider dynacorn #3631JL UCAs
  16. 1 point
    "With doing the work myself I figure aside from my physical time I’m better off spending $3500 on sheet metal on my $600 car than buying a $7000 car and still spending a grand or so repairing rust." It will always have rust unless you have it dipped to remove the rust then dipped in protectant or primer to protect the bare metal. In addition, the panels will never completely line up correctly if you have to rplace quarters and door skins and fenders etc.
  17. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Dakota Digital Install

    AAW has a good decoder for this, using the plug on the circuit board side. See pic below The DIM is for dimming your dash lights when your headlights/parking lights come on. I wired that to the headlight switch parking light/headlight power on.
  18. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Coil location 1970 351w in 69 Mach 1

    1st Pic below is from a high end restoration I took a picture of at Carlisle, 2 barrel small block. Zoom in, coil is under passenger side of air cleaner, right behind the intake manifold heater hose tube. 2nd pic is a Cleveland, coil on drivers side front of block 3rd pic is my 393 stroker, coil mounted to the back of the intake manifold, near firewall, on drivers side.
  19. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Yesterday I drained what was left of the trans fluid in the T-5 trans. Today before it got to hot I got the trans installed, & installed the shifter.,
  20. 1 point
    smh00n

    What should I fix first?

    Another one for brakes and steering. New standard stuff is all I would use (and am using) The hourly rate is what I'd look at. To redo the front and rear with stock stuff I reckon a bloke by himself would do that in 2 days so a 'pro' should take less than that. In our part of the world mechanics would be getting around $80-100 an hour so that's 15 hours. If you're halfway handy you could have a go yourself. They are a pretty simple suspension set up and you do 1 side at a time so you can refer to the other if you get lost.
  21. 1 point
    RPM

    69 mach 408w build

    Engine porn at its best!
  22. 1 point
    bryonbush

    69 mach 408w build

    dang that engine looks amazing!
  23. 1 point
    JET 445

    Door handle rod assembly

    Those repro handles are crap, the internal parts are for an earlier model and don't fit, get some original Ford handles and get them rechromed.
  24. 1 point
    Welding the qtr on the top will produce less warping than down the side.
  25. 1 point
    69RavenConv

    Door handle rod assembly

    Without digging too deeply into your photos, you may want to consider buying a new set of re-popped rods to go with your new handles. They're not too expensive and you know they're the correct length, etc. Since your handles were missing, there's no guarantee the innards are correct. I replaced my pitted handles with nice re-pops years ago and everything fit well on re-pop doors. I think Scott Drake acquired the company that made my handles so they're probably still using the same tooling.
  26. 1 point
    thrice

    Front disc question

    Source: http://www.discbrakeswap.com/swap.3.3M 65-66 manual brakes 3rd edition 03292017 E.pdf :-)
  27. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    Trunk weatherstrip question

    Black adhesive looks better :)
  28. 1 point
    unilec

    Trunk weatherstrip question

    I have just done my 65FB, so what I do is put a line of masking tape just outside the area that is the gasket line before the glue is applied, this prevents you getting glue marks on your paint outside the gasket line.
  29. 1 point
    newstang

    Automatic Convertible top question

    Ah Yes of course, i assume i would need to cross connect the anapanaforis with the panadoris in order to check for resephromity :-)
  30. 1 point
    Caseyrhe

    Brothers 69 Mach

    Rear brakes, lines, and emerg brake cables installed last night
  31. 1 point
    Grabber70Mach

    Brothers 69 Mach

    It's coming along nicely.
  32. 1 point
    1969_Mach1

    Looking at Distributors

    Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module. It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor. An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor. But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor. The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out. Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates. It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces. I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.
  33. 1 point
    You could always try to make your own. My late brother used to sell brushed aluminum vinyl inlays for 69-70. As long as you have the right vinyl and a good pattern to go off of you can make your own. These two photos aren't the greatest but maybe it will help give you an idea as to what it may look like with the brushed aluminum vinyl.
  34. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    This morning was a nice day so I decided we would put the engine in. We did get rained on for a couple minutes, but after that is was nice in the low 80's. I did the grunt work & my wife operates the engine hoist.
  35. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Today was a nice day so I rolled the engine out of the garage & installed the valve covers & the headers. The bottom end is stock, the heads are Ford Racing M-6049-X306 w/Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers, cam is Ford Racing M-6250-B303, & the headers are Hedman 88408 Shorties.
  36. 0 points
    Debbie

    Door grommet

    No I do not have the grommets on the wire harness because I installed a new painless performance harness for the entire car. My mechanic threw out the old harness and That’s why I don’t have them.


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