kblagron

I have a 70 manual trans that did not have a brake booster when I bought it, but did originally. I bought a Scott Drake brake booster for a 70 Mustang, and it had a different shaped pin than the original booster had, and I had an issue with the brake light being on all the time. I compared a photo of the original .vs. what I had, and it was apparent that I needed to shave some of the pin to get the brake light to not be engaged. It took me a few iterations with a Dremel tool to shave enough of the pin so that the brake light would turn off, but really wasn't that hard. The photo shown has the booster installed in my car with the pin off of the pedal on the left, and the one on the right is what it should look like. I shaved off the end of the pin and got it working.

I remember seeing one guy that put in 2004 Mach 1 seats into a classic Mustang and was able to include the power system. I would assume it might cause some headroom issues like that but maybe he was short. I am not sure if they were heated back then or not, but some companies make heaters that you can put below your upholstery that would serve that purpose. The cooling part might be a whole different ball game.

I just installed the AAW wiring and there is a pink / light green wire from the harness. There are also neutral safety wires in that branch, but you shouldn't need those, I didn't even run them to the transmission. My understanding for that type of shifter, you need a Hurst Back-Up Light Switch, and you would connect those two wires to that. I have a T5z, so mine had a different type pigtail than you would have.

I have to do mine soon. I was going to paint them, including the "Mach 1", then use a block and sand it down to the metal.

I decided to cut down the seat pans since I had an extra set, and was able to get the seats pans lowered 7/8 inch. I used both a 3 inch steel plate along with a 1/2 inch by 2 inch rectangular tube. I also modified the existing brace so it is sitting lower. My novice welding skills show up in the photos below, but I feel this give me the same if not better structural integrity than the original seat pan. Since I did this, I started looking at the Fiero seats, and found a decent deal. Using the Mustang seat tracks, I can get another 2 or so inches. I have an order in for new seat covers that mimic the 70 Mach 1 look, and about 95% sure I will go in that direction. Maybe, if I am lucky, I can sell the TMI Sport R seats to someone that is 6 foot tall or less.

The service manual (Page 21-05-32) states that the Crossmember to Frame torque should be 10-20 ft-lbs. Is this correct, because it seems low to me. Any comments on this?

Looks to be very well optioned, including A/C, but didn't see that in your engine bay photo. Should be a very fun car!

Looks like most of the parts are there. I started with a shell, and have been slowly putting it together. You are much further along. Hopefully there isn't any rust issues. Shaker hood and deluxe interior are big plus'es. Looks like you also have power brakes and power steering. Living in Austin, I am thinking that A/C may be in your future (I live in the North Houston area)

I have been using both the Mustang Assembly Drawings and the Forel Shop Manual for my build. Quality of the images for both are average, and sometimes not even average. The assembly drawings are great for putting things together (i.e. dash, tail lights, electrical wiring, etc.) , but I have used the Shop Manual to rebuild the tilt steering column and put the engine together from the block up. The paper copy of the assembly drawings came with the car, but I went ahead and purchased the electronic (PDF) version to make searching for things a bit easier - I bought it from NPD. Lots of things you would think would be in body are in chassis, or chassis in electrical, etc. and an electronic copy allows you to find it somewhat faster.

How did you move the seat tracks back? Drill new holes in the seat frame?

Before I go all in on this, I am going to modify the existing pan by lowering it. I have an extra pan for each side that came with the car, so if I screw it up I still have a backup. I have lowered the rear so far, and it sits very close to the floor pan, and temporarily removed the middle bracket to modify the front about the same amount. I will post some photos when I am done.

I meant MTF, I have the TMI sport seat covers

Thanks! Yes, maybe square or rectangular tube in the front and back of the seat rails, and have the seat pedestal fit in between them.

I have a 1970 Mach 1 that is currently being restored, and don't have the seat pans installed as of yet. I already have TMI Sport R seats/foam, the MTF headliner, and have been doing a test fit of the seat pan location, as I already assumed I would need to move it back. I am 6'3", 215 lbs, and right now I struggle to get in even with a tilt steering wheel. The steering wheel isn't the problem, it's bending my my neck enough to get it in. With the seat pans in the normal location, its a no go - too close to steering wheel and head is against the MTF liner. With the seat pans about 2 inches back, legs are good, but head is touching the TMI liner slightly. I then took out the seat pan, and placed a 1" block of wood to simulate the height of the seat tracks, and that is about right (2" from headliner and legs are perfect for a clutch). My thoughts are to use 1/4" x 2" sheet metal stock that would take the place of the seat pan. I attached what I was thinking - rectangular, and it would be welded to the trans tunnel and the door frame along with floorboard. I have read probably every one of the recommendations here on this forum and VMF, and this was mentioned on one. Just wanted to see what everyone thought.

I just did my AAW wiring, and I put it just a little back from the washer bottle about 3/4 of the way up. I also routed the marker light ground there and attached it. It's visible, but is next to the bottle so not that noticeable.