det0326

wasn't the t5's in the later model mustangs paired with a 373 gear.

It is really sad to see all the spam. If it wasn't for the spam there wouldn't be much activity at all . Sure wish there was something we could do to stop it. The ability to post pics, the way we use to, would be nice too.

The twisted pair of wires is to help with elctromagnetic noise for digital devices. If you can put the twisted pair in your new harness it sure can't hurt.

sorry to hear that hope you have a speedy recovery.

Not sure if anybody makes a direct fit for an AOD in a 69 but you could get lines for a 87 to 93 or so mustang v8 that should get you to the front but would need manipulated to get to cooler. Its been a while since I did this conversion tho so someone might make them now I don't know. If you use the copper nickle tubing it is easy to bend and flare if you decide to make your own.

Bob does your starter spin the engine as it should with out anything heating up abnormally? If it does I'm not so sure this has anything to do with your breaking starter issues. While I would like to see a sufficient cable from battery to engine block on the grn side, I not sure if it is needed because the trans does have a pretty solid connection to the engine. I may be completly wrong but I think you have other problems

Bob if test 1. was a 2.3v drop test 4. should have been equal or a little more of a drop than 1. You may want to check those two again. By the way a 2.3v drop is not good. Maybe time to run a copper cable from batt grn to engine block

Has this flywheel been on the engine the entire time you have had starter issues?

I had the OEM starter on my 351w in the beginning and had the same problem as you mentioned about heat soak because of headers. I changed to the PMGR starter and that seemed to fix the issue, my engine had a CR of 10:1 with AFR heads. Another thought crossed my mind. Do you have a 157 tooth flex/flywheel or 164 set up. While the 157 tooth should not cause your issue it would add extra stress on the starter.

I can see voltage drops causing high current killing starter solenoids but in all my time (and I am old) I have never seen low voltage break starter/ring gear teeth or starter snouts. Some how I believe this is timing related. While I don't know you personally Bob, I do know from reading your post that your timing is set with a timing light and is spot on. Not sure how you are controling timing but could the advance in your distributor be sticking or if using a aftermarket box could it be at fault?

Scotty said he never heard from you. Are yo still interested?

not sure if it sent correctly or not. let me know if you got it.

Scotty does have a pair and sent a pic of them. As others have said I can't upload a pic. I ts a pic he sent me in messanger on face book. Are you a member of facebook?

messaged Scotty today and he said he had something going on at his girls scool today and would check as soon as he gets back home today

will do. happy to help. Im surprized u cant find these in Texas closer to you. I guess they are getting scarce.

I have a message to him. He said he would look over is yard nand see what he could find. His name is Scotty Strickland and is on facebook. He lives up around Oxford NC

where are you located. I know a place( upper NC) that might have a donor part

Not sure about the coupe. I seem to remember a thread on here a few years ago about that. i don't think it was being made at that time.

Is this what you are speaking of? https://www.kentuckymustang.com/exterior/body-sheet-metal/trunk-area/trunk-corner-fastback-lh-1969-1970-dynacorn.html#/filter:year:1969

I used a 1992 mustang AOD in a 1969 and the dipstick that came with it worked fine. I made my lines from the nickel copper tubing that is easy to bend. Wasn't to hard at all.

Forgot to mention too that the gray primer will help fill in any pits from rust. even used it on a quarter panel one time to fill in some pitting before finish painting and it held up well so far thats been 6 years ago

I used it on a 1969. After cleaning and sanding I sprayed it with the gray masterseries primer then sprayed it with black top coat. I have since sold the car but the new owner and I keep in touch and he said all the paint is holding up well even the red and clear SPI

Bob always finds a way. Thats why he is a moderator

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/welding-and-soldering-tools/welding-rods/24760?store=03344&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxUexKmF-3t1g7CulS-QPVDZFFF3BNHpfxkTl-m1BFmorajklEJOSzhoCAC0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds After looking at this more closely I'm not sure it is the one I seen in there store. The one I saw said it could be used with mapp or propane gas on the package. This one seems to lean more toward an electrode for a welder so I don't know, have to take another look when I am back in there. Well after more investigation The Bernzomatic AL 3 is what I used. I was thinking it was the Muggy but I was wrong. So I can truefully say that it works great too. Although I don't think it is any cheaper now. I think the Muggy has come down some since I bought this about 5 or 6 years ago. Was going to attach a picture but as some as said it is not working.

Terry, I was in my local Ace Hardware the other day to get some welding supplys, I noticed they had another brand that was a lot cheaper. I have not tryed it but is suppose to be the same stuff. Your right about about the muggy it is great. I used it to patch an aluminum A/C condenser that sees pressures above 200psi sometimes.