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Everything posted by det0326

  1. I found that the front glass was easier for me than the rear glass. I found too that it is easier with a helper.
  2. Kinda confused by Peter's last post. I always thought the 1 piece hub and rotor was same for 1969 and 1970, just a different bearing. also the tapered hole in 1970 spindle is bigger so u have to use 1970 tie rod.
  3. I am not 100% sure but I seem to remember that some of the ford vans used the Saginaw pump in late 70's into early 80's. Maybe a place to start looking.
  4. Welcome to the forum. RPM is going to ask for pictures of your car, we like pic's. What about the dimension 37 3/4 from center to center of rear frame rails at the rear torque box, is it good. I remember measuring mine (long ago now) I can remember it was 54 and something. Don't know what state your car is in, completely torn down or still together but did/do the quarters, door and fenders line up ok? Do you know if the car has been hit at any point of its life?
  5. You make excellent points especially no. 2
  6. This is just my 2 cents Ed, if I were in you're shoes knowing what I know now about classic cars, I would put the original engine up somewhere safe and get a later model roller. Not for just that reason tho there are several improvements that I like, things like a better style rear oil seal. Like I say tho that is just me but my thoughts are if I build HP with the original block I would drive it like a bandit and blow a rod out the side and it would be lost forever.
  7. Ed's door is wrong side isn't it. Not sure how much that piece would help you
  8. I used the 20350712 in a 351 bored .040 over and really loved it. Had plenty of power I think u will like it.
  9. and don't ever put a table of any sort even temporally, it will become completely full with stuff and you will have no idea where it came from.
  10. Ed, I have an original mirror housing if that is what u need and it is even in your color. I will have to locate it but I think it is in good shape.
  11. Merry Christmas Ed. The only thing I would be concerned about is some of those stroker cranks were having problems with the counter bore on the back where the convertor snout slips in. I know u said that u were going to use the T5 so there may not be any problem for your build, just mentioned it in case something changes and u use the auto, have your builder to check the dia. and depth.
  12. I don't get many hits on my post either, I don't think they love us
  13. I have done a lot of silver soldering in my time, yes it would work but you would have to be (as elmer fudd would say) vewy vewy carful
  14. You are correct. The fatter pink wire is the resistor wire and smaller one connected to ignition switch with it goes to regulator. Some people use this wire for a switched 12v that has switched to a one wire alt or an alt with internal regulator. Would not use it tho if u still have OEM alt and reg setup.
  15. Not sure of the manufacturer of the one I used, been so long ago but I got it through Kentucky Mustang. all I can remember about it is it was a pain to install because the holes and things did not line up. So if they guarantee that this one is a perfect fit that would be a plus.
  16. Resistors is all about load. No load on the resistor wire it will read the full source voltage, unlike a voltage regulator that will give you a Constance voltage.
  17. is this a new pump that has never had oil in it. Just wondering, it appears that the barb fitting is sweated/silver soldered on. If so then u could remove and and replace with an adapter with sweat on one end and the AN size on the other. If it has oil in it how hard would it be to remove the reservoir do your surgery and replace it.
  18. Always loved the look of the louvers just never could bring myself to drill the holes in the roof. You and Bob are right tho if you are going to do it fit before paint
  19. Can't help with wheel house but welcome to the forum. There is plenty around tho that can help'
  20. If u are lucky enough to remove the old decal without damaging the paint under it and your paint is 2 stage u can simply sand it with 600 or 800 all over lay out your stencil cover anything that needs protection from overspray and paint with black base coat remove stencil and spray clear over the whole hood. Sand the ridges left by stencil and clear again. May have to do it again depending on how steep the ridges. When done the strips are buried and smooth as silk. If the paint flakes off while removing the decal then u will have to strip the whole hood.
  21. At the time I did my 69 I liked the 70 hood scheme better, now if doing it again I would do the 69 black out. I used a stencil to do the 70 strips and it worked well. I also buried the black strips in the clear, I know that is not OEM style but just my preference. To answer your question tho I guess a stencil is a stencil and it worked great. No bleed under, I have had the tape to let paint bleed under it but probably because I am a rookie.
  22. wow Ed when did u wreck your car, I must have missed this. so sorry
  23. The only thing I could add is if your car's engine is pretty much stock making lot of vacuum, power assist will work fine. If not tho and making low vacuum in my opinion u would be better off with manual discs. This is me been there done that thing
  24. Hmm good point, don't know but will have to check that out. Thanks Bob
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