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Everything posted by det0326

  1. Some of your questions could be better answered if we knew what steering system u may have. Stock verses something else. I used the CPP steering box which is comparable to the Borgenson just a little quicker ratio. I actually plugged the grease zerk fittings on the end of nuts and drilled on the flat of nut putting the zerk fittings pointing straight out which allowed me to move the upper control arm back about 1/4 " or so which gave me more positive caster. With 1" drop and more positive caster my car had a more modern feel. The car handled beautifully. None of this tho except the 1" drop is necessary if you are keeping stock steering.
  2. I have found a lot of times if the gauge is reading low it is usually a ground problem, that is if the sender is in proper working order. I always run a dedicated ground from where battery ground connects to engine block to the rear of car. Speaking of the Dakota gauges the VHX series that I used on the chev had a menu selection for different resistance ranges. I don't think they were close enough tho if the proper selection does not work that you could select another one higher or lower to help correct the situation.
  3. Edelbrock pro flo 4 is what I was speaking of in post above. I used it on a 454 well pleased with it.
  4. Never used the sniper but I did use the FiTech, I was mostly pleased with it but the programing to fine tune it in can get confusing. As terry said above their tech help wasn't to good to start with but I think it may have improved some. If I was going to put efi on another car I would use Edelbrock's multiport. Used one on a non Mustang project and am well pleased with it. More expensive but I think it is well worth it.
  5. sorry for delay sister had some medical problems and been helping her out. Never had the engine on a dyno or anything but on paper it was around 400HP 351W FiTech EFI
  6. I used the US radiator with 2 rows of 1 1/4 tubes and dual electric fans. I was always impressed with how cool it ran with A/C running in SC heat. I sold the car to a guy in Bakersfield Cal. a few years ago and we have always talked back and forth and he too has made the same comment.
  7. I think u are correct. As Midlife said if u are using a different ignition circuit that eliminates the resistor wire you don't need stock sol. if your starter has one.
  8. Yes Terry, I believe u are right if it is a PMGM, that I would assume OP is using. The only way it would work as I described would be to jump the two terminals on the starter with a heavy duty diode. lol
  9. I have given this a little thought also. I don't see why u couldn't leave stock sol. connected as is and jump the little terminal to the big one on the starter and of course put the big wire from stock sol to the big terminal on starter as it should be. What this would do for u is all power would be off starter when ignition switch is in the run position just like stock wiring was. I did connect mine as u have drawn tho and never changed it but again I think it would work and safer too incase of a hot starter wire getting burned by a hot header.
  10. As aslanefe said we would need more information. If you have drums on rear or all four could be a shoe adjustment problem If you converted to power assist and didn't change the pedal that could be a problem. Need to confirm all parts are correct for power assist.
  11. GypsyR check your message box please
  12. U are making way to much out of this. Buy the neutral balanced 164 tooth flex plate that is advertised for the C4 Aod 4R and when u marry the transmission to the engine check the clearance as I posted above and u have no worries.
  13. Is the engine in the car? The reason I ask is because weight will change that some and how the car is supported will change it also. Needs to be on wheels on ground has it would be normally. After the above is done and still not lined up sometimes the shock towers will move in or out with stress over time. Some where on line there is a dia. with measurements to check to see if shock towers are where they are suppose to be. If I can find it I will post it. Another thing is the fender gaps lining up ok. If so and u can line export brace up with minimum pressure I would not worry about it.
  14. what kinda rpm's u planning on running this beast? If u cut the weight off and not remove any material from flexplate it would have to be as neutral as it could be. That weight is only put on there to counter balance the crank throws. If u are afraid of it tho I would get a 0 balanced one but in the after market world that's no guarantee either. Another solution is cut the weight off and get it balanced by whoever balanced your engine. More money more money never ends does it. I sure know that feeling. Good luck with your engine.
  15. Just a quick look on the web and found this one. They are out there but because of covid a lot of places are out of stock, I would make sure they have in stock ready to ship. I would not have a problem cutting the weight off the old one that came with the 4r, it is only welded in a few spots in most cases. https://blueprintengines.com/products/ford-flexplate-164-tooth-steel-external-50oz-imbalance-bppf50164
  16. I know some people had trouble with the after market stoker crank where the snout of the converter mates. I would check that ID and depth on all the steps to make sure that yours is same as a stock crank. Other than that when u mate the trans with the engine and u can slide the converter forward and back 3/16 to 1/4 inch u are golden.
  17. as far as I know the c4 aod and 4r all use the 164 tooth flex plate. The weight imbalance would depended on the engine application, if your engine is internally balanced then I don't see why u couldn't cut the weight off the stock one that was on the 4r. Now there is a long and short starter snout, there again tho if you have the starter that came with the 4r it should be correct. If u go with a used flex plate be sure it is for the c4 aod or 4r. there are some out there for eod or c6 that just looking at them seem to be the same but has a slight different offset and won't work it will damage the pump.
  18. Long time since I installed mine but I seem to remember there was screw holes already punched in them. also remember that maybe 1 or 2 would not line up, had to make new ones.
  19. U may already be aware of the late 80's to mid 90's F150 or Bronco serpentine setup. It is a cheap and dirty way to get the advantage of serpentine belt to pull larger amp alternators. At this point tho u already have some bits and pieces that won't work with it. This setup requires radiator with passenger side outlet and drivers side inlet, a reverse rotation water pump etc. These brackets and all are getting hard to find too. Just thought I would throw that out there incase u didn't know.
  20. As Chuck Berry would say, must of been some other body wasn't me babe
  21. Got ya. I was at a drag race one time helping a buddy of mine stage and the guy ahead of us made a hard launch, car went about 50 ft and stopped, left his pinon on the ground spinning like a top.
  22. Just curious. are u planning on more power or more abuse than normally? The stock axles usually do well on the street. Not so much on hard launches tho..
  23. Yes the one on the transmission tail shaft. Just thinking out loud but if it is broken it could be letting the tail of transmission slide a little messing with the adjustment.
  24. Depends on what u want. If u don't care about your odometer being correct then changing the gears to make your speedo correct is fine. If u want the odometer correct as said put the 18 tooth one in and check the odometer reading for 1 mile. If it proves to be correct and speedo still not correct then u have a speedo problem.
  25. Just a thought but have u checked the transmission mount to see if it might be broken?
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