kblagron

You might want to look at a build thread. @BuckeyeDemon has one here that is about as detailed as any . If you go over to the vintage-mustang.com and look for my build thread (user name kblagron), I cover it in a good bit of detail as well for a 1970 with fold down seats.

I used, Wesco, short sash. I could see where the longer one would be better, but the shorter one works fine.

I have a 16:1 box from NPD that I bought and installed to move around the body shop. I ended up getting an OEM box and so I changed this one out before I ever drove it. As far as I know it's in good shape if your interested. NPD info here -> https://www.npdlink.com/product/steering-gear-box-161/208279

I had an issue on my rear blinkers, and it ended up being that the receptacle that the bulb goes in was 180 degrees out. I just had to spin the contacts in the receptacle around, and they started working. Might be worth checking!

Belated Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

After seeing the photo in your post, I am wondering if I might have an issue with my insert. I did not change the insert in my engine as it was intact, but after looking at your photo, the one you show has a pie shaped hole, where my pie shaped hole looks to be closed off. I don't have any heating problems while driving, but it does get 215+ at idle in the Texas summer heat. No issues this time of year. I ended up putting a pusher fan between the A/C condenser and radiator that has solved the heating issues at idle. image upload

I usually check in here, but very little activity anymore. Most of the info I get is over at the VMF forum these days.

I didn't add the wire for ground, and all is fine. My recommendation - if you can do it, but, at least for me, it will probably work fine.

I never could find just the brackets I needed, and ended up buying the whole kit, quite expensive for what I needed. The problem with that bracket is it has a threaded hole in it, so possibly could be made, but you would have to weld in a threaded nut to make it work. If I had the old one, I would attempt to remove, and weld on pieces that would make it work.

Is there any chance that VMF and 1969Stang could merge? Maybe have a separate forum for 69-70 and move everything that is here over to that site. I love both places, but I think the bandwidth outages and spam has caused a lot of people to go elsewhere.

Very Cool Plates!

On the trim clips, I had some but they did not work well. I eventually just decided to drill small holes and mount with screws. If your not looking for concourse, the screws are almost unnoticeable being at the far back of car, plus every other panel is screwed in except this one.

I think you could be going down a rabbit hole that if it was me, I would want to avoid. You should be able to find a good roller for not too much above that price without all the rust and dings. Just my thought. Since you're young, maybe you want it to be a long term project, but I would want something in better shape unless you like doing a lot of body work. You might check out this post on VMF, he went down a similar path: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-convertible-build-351w-4sp-toploader-9-rear.1168598/#replies

And a costly route. I just finished my 70 Mach 1 that was in better shape (already disassembled, bead blasted, new metal installed where needed) and the cost to restore from that point was more than the cost of the car now. I did all of the work except the paint. I was not looking at it as an investment, just a hobby to keep me busy, so I had no problems with that. From where you are right now, it will take some money.

I had an early 70 Mach 1 with glue in glass, and I didn't have to do that modification. I am not sure if Nu-Relics changed their design to make it work, or the glue in bracket was different in a 70 .vs. a 69. I installed mine about 6 months ago.

I used some sticky foam about 3/16" thick in that area, but placed it on the metal, not the sail panels. I did the LizardSkin on the interior so probably wasn't needed but it was an easy install. I thought I had a photo, but apparently I don't. Here is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BNBV7WK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

No, just the right. I probably would have run them back if I had the left, but with the cost for new motor mounts and the brackets, I just went with the RM mounts.

I am pretty sure that is what I posted above -> looks similar to these: https://www.npdlink.com/product/brackets-motor-mount/105035

See if you can see this photo. I used a users suggestion on getting it to a URL: https://ibb.co/TmRwtTN

I know I have one but can't remember what side it is from. I went with Ron Morris, so I don't need it. Will let you know tomorrow. Edit - I have a passenger side bracket from a 1970 Mustang Mach 1 with 351C (at least I think it is as it has an "R" on it). Let me know. Price is right - free if you pay shipping. Tried to upload an image of it here, but no go - see your messages.

I know I have one but can't remember what side it is from. I went with Ron Morris, so I don't need it. Will let you know tomorrow.

The first time it wasn't bad because I had everything out. But then I realized the two hoses weren't long enough, so I pulled it out with the dash installed, changed the hoses and did it again. I can't say it was easy, but still doable. The top bolt is hard to get to, but once you get that one in, the others line up great. I would take off the steering wheel and the seat to get better access.

Do you have a photo of what you want? I may have one, but not sure

I slid the RM motor mounts back about an inch or so, and my power steering pump was very close to the shock tower, and interfered with belt tension adjustment (351C). I ran a tight belt, but probably only have about a 1/2 inch of leeway to take tension out now.

Thanks! Mine shifts great as well, but you always get worried when you hear about other owners problems. I went with the Malwood Hydraulic Clutch Pedal and used the MDL slave cylinder and it has worked great for the 150+ miles I have on it so far.