kblagron

There was someone that did it here: https://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/48446-stealth-speaker-install-in-fresh-air-vents/ I looked at it, but decided against it, but if you can guarantee a water tight seal there, I think it would be great. Since all of the water that goes in the cowl will be landing on your speaker enclosure, it needs to be very waterproof.

The TMI deluxe panels I bought have predrilled holes, but what is odd, is the driver side is higher up (+/- 1 inch) than the predrilled holes on the passenger side. The video on the TMI deluxe panels that CJPP made shows the holes further up, closer to my driver side. Also, they have 6 holes, not 5. I plan on doing something similar to @ThePoose but use 6 screws.

Back when I was working, I had a home server setup at home with the ability to log in from work. Since I had an open connection, i had 100's of attempts to hack in to my server every day. I eventually set it up so only certain IP addresses (i.e. I blocked all Russian and Romanian IP addresses) and it slowed down to almost nothing. Yes, they could have a VPN to bypass their location data, but from what I saw, just that change helped a ton. I am not sure where this is hosted or whether that could be done, but if it could, it would definitely help. If there are Russians and Romanians driving 69/70 mustangs, they will have to go somewhere else.

I purchased the ACC mass backed carpet a couple of years ago and just installed it last month. Maybe it was Covid, but very disappointed with the fit. They shorted me on both sections. I made it work, but had to piece together carpet for the kick panel area as it wasn't wide enough there. Then, ff I pulled the rear back far enough to cover the quarter trim, it moved the front part lower than I wanted (i.e. plastic foot panel was essentially 5 inches to far back). I made it work, but my advice is to get the rear installed first, then install the front. Before you cut anything, make sure it fits where you need it.

Well I think I figured out my own question. I went and dug out the rear seat that was in the back of a closet (waiting to be installed for a long time), and I saw where those brackets are at the very top of the seat bottom, so guess I have two more brackets to weld on.

I am installing a fold down seat into a 1970 Mach 1 that had fixed seats before. I shamelessly stole a photo I found on here that shows bracket locations for the fold down seats. I have already learned I need both #1 brackets, and one of the #2 brackets. Then I noticed that I don't have either of the #3 brackets. I guess the previous owner took them out when replacing the floor pan and never re-installed. Are the #3 brackets needed for a fold down seat car? I can't see where they would be as I assume they are for the rear seat back, but maybe I am wrong.

same problem here as well, it's been on and off (mostly off) for several months.

Thanks! I finally got the boomerang trim and saw how they are exposed. I have painted them already, but haven't installed, just test fit with screws. Plan on going with screws, they seem quite secure that way, plus with the sealer, I think they will be fine. I will have to figure out how I want to handle the final paint on it once installed, and may leave that one for the body shop who is going to do one final touchup and buff for me. Thanks again for the replies! Blake

I had an issue with the Pertronix III and the rev limiter - Once I turned it off, everything worked fine.

As I continue to install my quarter windows on my 70, I found the two quarter window drip rails were loose and didn't get painted with the car. Are these typically painted? I found a photo on here showing where they are installed and are painted, but it looks like they be covered by the boomerang trim molding. (I am still waiting on those so can't verify if they do cover it). The two channels I have: Here is the example I am using as a "go-by".

Well after perusing the internet and numerous photos, this is the way I think they go. The photo below is a mock-up on the passenger side. The one shown in red is a clip that is riveted to the channel and supports the outside of the glass. The two shown in green are screwed in with the channel and they have a notch in the channel to indicate the location. They would support the inside of the glass. The red clip points in the opposite direction of the two green clips. I am not sure this is right, but I know the riveted clip was on my car before the disassembly in that location, and looking at the clip, it would have to support the outside of the glass.

I posted this over on VMF, but probably should of posted it here, since it is 69-70 specific. I am in the process of re-installing the roof rail weatherstrip channels on my 1970, and they are in good shape with the exception of the riveted guide clip on the driver side channel. The passenger side has this clip (red arrow). I have new window guide clips for the ones that are attached with the channels (green arrows). The one that is missing (driver side) is attached by a rivet that probably broke off at some point in time. My questions are - Is that guide necessary? Are there any after market replacements (I couldn't find any)? Since the channels are in good shape, I don't want to purchase these just for that guide. I think I can fabricate one if these are necessary. It looks like the riveted clip slides on the outside of the window, and the two that are screwed in hold it from the inside, but wasn't sure.

On my Classic Auto Air install with Dakota Digital gauges I put them in front of the column support and did not have any issues getting the instrument panels or dash pad installed.

Sounds like the brake booster has failed, but I am no expert. You could put a wheel (or multiple wheels) up on a jack and with the car running, have someone spin the wheel while in neutral and see if they stop when you press on the brakes.

I went with this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDM-PCE106-1007 Height wise it was fine with a stock manifold (351c) and a summit carb. The adjustment holes were off, and I had to drill new holes on the base plate. I think it looks good installed.

Thanks, my paint shop was trying to paint mine like yours, and I was pretty sure it wasn't correct, so I had them paint it with the U-shaped stripe. After seeing yours I was thinking that maybe I wasn't right. I have an aftermarket shaker, and wasn't sure either whether the numbers should be on there or not.

I had a question on your hood and shaker. I haven't seen a stripe on the hood quite like yours and also the 351 emblem on the shaker. Was this something the PO did?

I have a 70 manual trans that did not have a brake booster when I bought it, but did originally. I bought a Scott Drake brake booster for a 70 Mustang, and it had a different shaped pin than the original booster had, and I had an issue with the brake light being on all the time. I compared a photo of the original .vs. what I had, and it was apparent that I needed to shave some of the pin to get the brake light to not be engaged. It took me a few iterations with a Dremel tool to shave enough of the pin so that the brake light would turn off, but really wasn't that hard. The photo shown has the booster installed in my car with the pin off of the pedal on the left, and the one on the right is what it should look like. I shaved off the end of the pin and got it working.

I remember seeing one guy that put in 2004 Mach 1 seats into a classic Mustang and was able to include the power system. I would assume it might cause some headroom issues like that but maybe he was short. I am not sure if they were heated back then or not, but some companies make heaters that you can put below your upholstery that would serve that purpose. The cooling part might be a whole different ball game.

I just installed the AAW wiring and there is a pink / light green wire from the harness. There are also neutral safety wires in that branch, but you shouldn't need those, I didn't even run them to the transmission. My understanding for that type of shifter, you need a Hurst Back-Up Light Switch, and you would connect those two wires to that. I have a T5z, so mine had a different type pigtail than you would have.

I have to do mine soon. I was going to paint them, including the "Mach 1", then use a block and sand it down to the metal.

I decided to cut down the seat pans since I had an extra set, and was able to get the seats pans lowered 7/8 inch. I used both a 3 inch steel plate along with a 1/2 inch by 2 inch rectangular tube. I also modified the existing brace so it is sitting lower. My novice welding skills show up in the photos below, but I feel this give me the same if not better structural integrity than the original seat pan. Since I did this, I started looking at the Fiero seats, and found a decent deal. Using the Mustang seat tracks, I can get another 2 or so inches. I have an order in for new seat covers that mimic the 70 Mach 1 look, and about 95% sure I will go in that direction. Maybe, if I am lucky, I can sell the TMI Sport R seats to someone that is 6 foot tall or less.

The service manual (Page 21-05-32) states that the Crossmember to Frame torque should be 10-20 ft-lbs. Is this correct, because it seems low to me. Any comments on this?

Looks to be very well optioned, including A/C, but didn't see that in your engine bay photo. Should be a very fun car!

Looks like most of the parts are there. I started with a shell, and have been slowly putting it together. You are much further along. Hopefully there isn't any rust issues. Shaker hood and deluxe interior are big plus'es. Looks like you also have power brakes and power steering. Living in Austin, I am thinking that A/C may be in your future (I live in the North Houston area)