jmlay

All 69 Mach1 received the stainless rolled tips. The "exact" repo are quite expensive. But there are several lower cost alternatives.:

https://www.npdlink.com/product/tail-pipe-extensions/214326/200414?year=1969

I hate it when the garden hose gets a kink in it…

Peter,
Are the bushing and spacers installed with the switch?
https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-brake-light-switch/185676/

Spray done into the cap and brush it on. or just don’t use it in those areas. Weld thru primers makes for lots of splatter as you burn through it as well as it makes porous welds. When I do use it is I scrape it or wire brush it from the direct weld area.

The links I provided describe a change in angles to address harmonics and vibration. Installed hight was the same.

Assuming you have the cash on hand & found someone reputable. I would take headliner & windshield out & have it painted. Install a new headliner & glass, then reassemble. Everything else may be done as time & $ permit. maybe you will not have shinny bumpers to match the shiny new paint but in time you will. 

Assuming you have the cash on hand & found someone reputable. I would take headliner & windshield out & have it painted. Install a new headliner & glass, then reassemble. Everything else may be done as time & $ permit. maybe you will not have shinny bumpers to match the shiny new paint but in time you will. 

Have you seen what a broken u-joint &/or a twisted off driveshaft cam do to the drive train and body of a car? You have spent on the performance upgrades for engine, trans and rear, not to mention all of the body work. My recommend would be to spend on the 1350 yoke and custom driveshaft to match the rest of the drivetrain.

Ed,
You have it correct.

Here is a better picture. Look at the second picture in the link below:
https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9zb-6504672-a.html?a=GoogleProductSearch&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5aWOBhDMARIsAIXLlkcZ00OEW_iyVgTinOrI7XDedWcazt58QT34aJLeO_qbni4j7XrUnCYaAmkfEALw_wcB&pk_campaign=689785599&pk_content=154423720703&pk_kwd=&pk_medium=cpc&pk_source=GoogleAds&sessionthemeid=26

154-1501
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-1501
https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/154-1501/10002/-1
 

Before you cut anything out My recommendation would be to make a detailed diagram & note measurements as well as cross measurements. These measurements will help determine if the car is currently strait & square, or if adjustments need to be made. ASSUMING everything is where is should be they will help you get the new parts in the correct position.

69 & 70 are the same dimensions. Measurement "H", in the diagram below is correct, however, they are measuring from the incorrect hole, it should be the hole in front of the tunnel brace. I would also measure the distance between the top of the aprons in multiple identifiable locations, inside bend NOT the holes. Then cross measure from the firewall to the front of the apron. 

Take a look at these:
https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-gears
https://www.428cobrajet.org/speedo-calc

If I recall correctly the vaccume line runs to a valve that closes when the engine warms up, cutting off vaccume to the motor. No or less vaccume allows the motor to open the door allowing ambiant air to enter the air cleaner. Door is normally open and closes with vaccume.

There is always the chisel & its friend the BFH to split the cap. :-)

I suppose anything may be adapted. But if it were easy I think we would have a vendor selling the 71 up conversion already. The 71 up box mounts higher, frame rail and shock towers changes to accommodate this. Also the frame rails are further apart on a 71,72,73, thus more room for the box.

Throwing a pickle down the hallway...

I agree one needs to be careful with what is purchased at the local auto parts store. As long as you pay attention to the parts being ordered, filtering out the lesser known, there should be little problems. I this case I believe the switches NPD sells are those from Standard Motor Products, same as O'Reillys lists.
Mike

Drum brake spindles have a 4 Bolt flange for mounting the backing plate. Disk brake have a 3 bolt flange for mounting the backing plates. I beleive 70 have a larger spinal that takes a larger bearing as well. Then there are granda spendals that I have knowledge.

Make sure to mark the caps for location and orientation.

Similar https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=27613.0

Some good reading for the subject:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/mump-1005-ford-mustang-instrument-panel-troubleshooting/
 

Removed several unused from my breaker box and added a 220 outlet for the new welder.

If nothing else the $s are a motivator.

Red thing to the right of the distributor is the ignition coil. The silver/gray thing with the gage is a fuel pressure regulator. The rats nest of wires on the left I guess you could call your power center...
 
I would recommend sorting out the wiring, front to back, a priority. I would hate to see your car burn up because of poor wiring. Their are quality reproduction harness, or one repaired, if you wish to stay the “stock” wiring or several aftermarket options.