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Len69Coupe

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Len69Coupe last won the day on June 20 2020

Len69Coupe had the most liked content!

About Len69Coupe

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    Super Stanger'
  • Birthday July 1

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  • Location
    -South Georgia

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  • Location
    Valdosta, Ga
  • Interests
    Camping, ATV's, Geocaching
  • Occupation
    AF Contractor

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  1. Just the Hurst shift handle. Several posts I read recommended it. I think due to its length and offset. I am happy with the one I bought from CJ's though. The bonus was I won the CJ Pony Transformation Challenge on Fakebook and got a $30 gift card from them. So the shifter handle was almost free. Before I installed the T5 I cut out about an inch of the forward part of the shifter hole. I have no problem changing the shift handles. The biggest PIA is the chrome ring that the rubber shift boot that holds down.
  2. I put a T5 in my 69 with this shifter Summit Racing SUM-555-7353-SR Summit Racing™ Billet Aluminum Short Throw Mustang Shifters | Summit Racing 5th gear was definitely a reach. So I bought this one. UPR 1016-01 Mustang Shifter Handle Trick Stick Manual Billet Satin 1983-2004 (cjponyparts.com) It allows you to angle the shifter handle back. It's better, but I wish it was a couple inches longer. I might have bought a Hurst shifter if it wasn't absurdly priced.
  3. I ended up getting a new spacer plate that is 1/2". The old one was 1", so I should have plenty of room between the intake and the hood now. Vicfreg, you are correct, with no spacer the intake would hit the left side valve cover. Thanks for everyone's help.
  4. OK, I misunderstood the links then. I thought it was showing a different hole in the mounts that would lower the engine. So that's off the table. I sure don't want to open a can of worms with driveline vibrations and other issues. Simplest fix at this point is removing the one-inch intake spacer. Hopefully that won't cause clearance issues elsewhere. I would try different bolts, but the hood support would still be hitting the air filter tube on the right side. Thanks everyone :)
  5. Thanks. I was wondering about driveline angles also. Easiest option at this point is to remove the spacer and see how everything fits.
  6. Maybe what I read was about Fox bodies. The links jmlay posted do say that the convertibles and Big Blocks had a different mount that lowered the engine. That's if I'm reading that information correctly.
  7. Thanks jmlay. So just so I understand this, the Convertible mounts are the same as the all 67 and 68-70 Big Block mounts? So how far will these mounts drop the engine? Gee whiz question for added points; why did the Convertible need a lowered engine?
  8. So it turns out my hood is contacting my engine in 3 places. The worse being the front intake bolt, which has left a slight indention on my hood from contact. I could remove the intake spacer and that would fix all 3 issues, but could cause clearance issues elsewhere. Trying to get answer on removing the spacer is kind of like asking which oil is best, you get 50 different answers on if it really does anything. I thought I read that convertible motor mounts are a little lower. I've searched and I can't find anything that says there is a difference in motor mounts, other than small block and big block mounts. Unless I'm missing something I can't find any site that breaks out the convertible mounts from other mounts. Anyone know about the convertible motor mounts? I have seen the adjustable motor mounts offered and they could be an option. I just hate to spend that much on motor mounts. Last option would be to grind the intake bolt down some to see if it would clear. The other 2 spots hit the supports on the hood and could possibly be clearanced with a BFH. I'd hate to do that and it not turn out right.
  9. Some metallic in my paint. Removed old engine, painted engine bay/chassis and installed the new engine. Then we painted the car with fenders, doors and hood installed. Trunk was not installed, but you can't tell any difference. I will say the edges of the doors and fenders were really hard to get the coverage they needed. I went back and touched them up after.
  10. Front 17X8 245/45 0° offset Rear 17X9.5 275/40 0° offset Stock suspension with no rubbing anywhere. Edit: I did roll the fenders. Got it back on the road last Friday after a 9 year resto.
  11. You're right. I disconnected the harness and no power anywhere. The clicking stopped and I had thought I had troubleshot it to the headlight harness. Took me a minute to realize I had no power, lol. Turns out I'm my own worst enemy. I disassembled the car probably 10 years ago (man time flies) and replaced both trunk floors, part of the front trunk floor, the taillight panel and taillight brace. Then about 2-3 years ago I installed an EFI Fuel Tank Kit from Tanks Inc. When I installed the ground for the fuel pump, I used the existing ground on the trunk lock brace and soldered the taillight ground and fuel pump ground combining all the grounds. Fast forward to the other day and I ran into the flickering problem. With the Midlife's help on here and my 2 sons help (who just happened to be in town) we traced the problem to the trunk taillights. Turns out when I soldered the ground wires together, I also soldered the License Plate Light power wire in with the grounds. It's a black wire and I mistook it for a ground wire, DOH! We disconnected that wire, which eliminated the flickering and all marker lights and taillights work. YAY! Thinking back, I can't ever remember having a License Plate Light or ever disconnecting the wire from a light. I think the PO had disconnected that power wire and had it taped up the inside the taillight harness. When I disassembled everything, I didn't notice the wire at the time until I ran across it installing the fuel pump and thought it was a ground. So, it's huge relief solving that issue and I'm sure in a few months I'll be able to laugh about my mistake. So thanks for all the help, especially Midlife. You are a huge benefit to the forum.
  12. Solved. I'll be back to detail the fix.
  13. Here's the latest on the flickering dash and headlights. This flickering dash lights occur on the 1st detent. All dash and headlights (low and high) flicker when pulled all the way out. After market voltmeter drops to 8 -10 volts every time lights flicker. I disconnected fuse #5 with no change. I removed the dimmer switch with no change. I have disconnected every headlight, even all at once, with no change. I disconnected all marker lights, brake lights and dome light with no change. I got to thinking about the Halogen headlights and I do have them. I've never changed any of the headlights, so I wasn't sure until I looked at the lights close. Shouldn't matter though since they're all disconnected. I have no marking or parking lights. 4 ways act like they want to work and make 1 light click, but never come on. EDIT: I just changed the flasher and the 4 ways work. Thank goodness for small fixes there. Turn signals, brake lights, dome light and backup lights work. It seems I have 2 different issues because it seems to me the headlights and parking lights are on 2 different circuits. I think I will disconnect the headlight harness form the fuse box to see if that does anything. If the highlight switch stops clicking that would eliminate a short in the headlight harness, right? Other than that, I'm out of ideas.
  14. Yes, the lights flicker in detent one and flicker when pulled all the way out. I'll pull #5 fuse and see if there is a difference. If no difference, I'll disconnect the high beam floor switch and see what happens. I keep thinking it must be related to the rear parking lights not working. Thanks.
  15. I have stock headlights. Those are Halogen right?
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