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About dcm0123

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  • Birthday 02/27/1957

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  1. Drill a hole under the filter housing so when the engine vacuum pulls air through the heater on the manifold then up into the choke housing, it is clean air. Other end goes to the fitting next to the choke. OEM line run from the heater to the choke was a metal line since the heat will deteriorate rubber.
  2. It has been a while since I had one out but my recollection is threaded bolts are used to fasten the torque converter to the flex plate. If you remove all bolts you can push the converter away from the flex plate about 1/4 of an inch. The separation may be far enough so you can start the motor without the torque converter spinning if you want to try to isolate the cause of the problem. Many years ago I replaced the flex plate on my 68 302 C-4 setup with a Ford OEM flex plate. It had an identical vibration issue. I pulled the new plate out and noticed the new plate did not have a counterweight where the old one did. I went back to the Ford dealer who told be the plate was available with and without the counterweight. I would stick with an OEM plate since an aftermarket may not be balanced properly. I learned the hard way you should install the converter into the transmission then after the transmission is in place, bolt it to the flex plate. There are several splines the converter has to engage as it is pushed into the transmission which is why you have to rotate the converter to line up the splines as you push it in. You can not feel the steps and the splines if you try to engage the converter after it is mounted to the flex plate. You can easily jam the splines which requires you to disassemble the front of the transmission to free it up. Make sure both you and your garage know what year your engine and crankshaft is. As someone else pointed out different years are balanced differently.
  3. Do what he says but do not leave it connected for more than a couple of minutes because you will bypass the resistor. This bypasses your entire electrical system. If it starts then you need to figure out which part in the electrical system is bad. Pull the spark plug wire and check to see if there is spark at the wire. Connect it to a plug, lay it on the manifold so it is grounded good and have someone crank the motor so you can look for spark.. Make sure the coil case is grounded. and the ground inside the distributer is connected properly.
  4. Corrected- FMX has both a rod and modulator, sorry for misleading you. Check the shift rod setting since it may also control line pressure as noted below.
  5. FMX has a rod or cable coming from the carburetor to the transmission which controls transmission pressure. Is it adjusted wrong or sticking? Drive train play is another possibility. How did you determine there is none? Did you check the play in the differential or just the driveshaft itself? Bad spider gears or bearings in the differential can cause play as well.
  6. When I have a problem getting the distributor to drop in I typically have someone crank the engine while I push down with light force on the distributor. You should recheck the timing after you do this. It should only require a slight rotation of the crankshaft to help it drop in. If you rotate the crankshaft more than one revolution, it is not likely to help. I think what causes this is as you pull the distributor the gear rotates slightly and so will the shaft. However the shaft may move back due to residual pressure in the pump. Now the shaft is no longer rotated correctly with reference to the gear. An easy way to see if this is the issue is to try puting the distributor and rotate the shaft in different positions. If you get it to drop in at another position. Then I suggest you try what I mentioned above. I have had this happen to multiple Ford products- SB and FE.
  7. Do this. Will be easier to blend in the two panels because the surface will warp less as it states above. Not sure about flanging the edge. If you cut the old panel about 1" below the seam but weld it as you want to, leaving the corner on the old panel will result in less warpage on that section as well but will require more filler to blend the weld seam in. It was already installed in my car when I purchased it but needed to be finished. It was cut and overlapped about 1" down from the edge as Mike65 did it. The panel warped and required quite a bit of filler to smooth it out. If there is any of the original quarter flange left under the rear edge where the new quarter meets the tail light extension, I suggest you remove it so the old flange is at the same height as the new otherwise the fender extension may not sit flat. I would do the same with the front edge otherwise the door gap may not be right when you are done. Use the spot weld drill to cut the welds and grind flat. Install the rear valance panel before welding to make sure the end lines up with the edge of the quarter. Do not make the mistake I did- grind all lead out of the seam of the old quarter to the roof panel and then fill it with Fiberglas reinforced filler. If you do not and you have any rust under the lead, it will cause the lead/paint to bubble.
  8. You may want to test fit the intake, head and gaskets and inspect for excess clearance before you fully assemble.. If you have a gasket which goes between the front and back of the intake and the top edge of the block, leave it out for this test. With only the two long gaskets installed along with the intake manifold there should not be clearance between the head, gasket and the intake. If there is clearance, you have a problem. Unfortunately I do not know how to tell if it is the head or intake. If there are clean machined surfaces on a used part, I would suspect someone machined the surface and may have done it wrong. I believe if the long sides of the intake are machined, the surfaces on the ends which mate with the block have to be machined to or the intake will bottom on the block before there is correct compression on the sides to the heads. If you are using aftermarket heads, I suggest you verify what manifold they were designed to be used with. Possible they require aftermarket manifolds made by a specific supplier.I have trick flow heads and their intake on my 351W. Remember to take apart and install the end gaskets before tightening everything down. I believe many people replace the end gaskets with RTV if you are concerned they will not compress enough to allow a good seal between the intake and head.
  9. Had a wandering problem once which turned out to be the nut was loose on the end of the "power steering control valve". On the end of the valve there is a cap which is held in place with 2 screws. Remove the cap and it exposes the nut. It should be torqued to a specific value then replace the cap. You may want to check this.
  10. If you want to limit the advance without taking the distributor apart, put on a thicker black sleeve (shrink sleeve or rubber tubing) which limits the clearance between the 2 parts and the timing advance. Just replaced my points with a Mallory electronic module and timing is more consistent. Was jumping around at ~2000 RPM before on a 390. Attached a file from 69 manual in case you do not have it. The way I read this is if it says max advance above 2000 rpm then you can expect further advance above 2000 RPM. If it says NA, then the max advance will occur at 2000 RPM 69mustang-dist0001.pdf
  11. Did this reduce the travel of the throw out bearing?
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