Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by jmlay

  1. Try this: I missed the convertible portion... This should help: https://www.motorclassiccorp.com/used-vehicle-1970-shelby-gt-350-mustang-convertible-c-53/
  2. The connetor is pinned differently for a dash with a tach vs without tach. Verify what you have and the look at the diagrams and schematics. Some great resources on this site for electrical. Visit the how to portion of the forum for wiring diagrams and schematics.: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/forum/45-how-to039s/
  3. A simple voltage meter solution is a usb phone charger with built in meter: https://www.amazon.com/LIHAN-Charger-Display-Voltage-Current/dp/B01M9IKYVH
  4. All of the below match the specifications of your original: National 7300s National 7296s National 5203
  5. Cheaper options do exist. Scott Drake has a couple of pair, Scott Drake C7ZZ-5258-C & C7ZZ-5258-GT2. Another option is United Pacific, FM003. All "correct" are going to fit a 2 1/4" pipe.
  6. All 69 Mach1 received the stainless rolled tips. The "exact" repo are quite expensive. But there are several lower cost alternatives.: https://www.npdlink.com/product/tail-pipe-extensions/214326/200414?year=1969
  7. jmlay

    dash clock

    I hate it when the garden hose gets a kink in it…
  8. Peter, Are the bushing and spacers installed with the switch? https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-brake-light-switch/185676/
  9. I would start with measuring between the frame rails near the radiator support and where the frame rails enter the rail extensions. Compare to ensure they are the same. If the are not the same one or both rails are not strait. Next I would find fixed points on the rails to make cross measurements to decide what if a thing has moved. Assuming all of the above checks out I would note all of the dimentions as listed in the attached thread. Note: There will be variances between cars. If your afraid the rails are going to move, they should not if there is no stress in the rails, one may brace them before cutting anything out.
  10. Spray done into the cap and brush it on. or just don’t use it in those areas. Weld thru primers makes for lots of splatter as you burn through it as well as it makes porous welds. When I do use it is I scrape it or wire brush it from the direct weld area.
  11. If the desktop size is the same & only what your viewing in the browser then likely some browser settings have changed. Chrome has 3 dots in the upper right, click the 3 dots & adjust the "zoom" setting. Firefox is similar except it has 3 bars in the upper right, click the bars & adjust the "zoom" setting. OR if your mouse has a scroll wheel, hold down the "ctrl" key & spin scroll wheel.
  12. Forscan does more than read the standard emissions obd codes. Like noted you need a specific obd2 adapter.
  13. You might want to check out forscan. It requires a PC and a specific obd2 adapter to utilize the advanced features. https://forscan.org/home.html
  14. This is the clip I took of my car. Correct or replacement, I do not know.
  15. The links I provided describe a change in angles to address harmonics and vibration. Installed hight was the same.
  16. I would say you have your options covered. These links pretty much sum it up the differences in motor mounts.: https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-motor-mount-support-bracket https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/66-convertible-motor-mounts.949169/#post-7809705
  17. The gentleman that owns and runs the https://428cobrajet.org, Scott Hollenbeck, is the person whom has reproduced the foam pieces, plastic insert and many other parts.: https://www.musclecarresearch.com/
  18. https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/ford-9-inch-rear-end-widths-and-potential-donor-cars/
  19. https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1969/make/ford/model/mustang/engine-size/7-0l-428/engine-family/ford-big-block-fe?N=part-type%3Aflywheels%2Bengine-balance%3Aexternal-28-oz-imbalance_internal-external&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=flywheel
  20. Assuming you have the cash on hand & found someone reputable. I would take headliner & windshield out & have it painted. Install a new headliner & glass, then reassemble. Everything else may be done as time & $ permit. maybe you will not have shinny bumpers to match the shiny new paint but in time you will.
  21. Do a search in your area. I'm sure there is one around that can make one for you.
  22. The first picture above is using the the upper shackle hole. My recommendation woul be to use the two holes to the right, utilized for the bracket for transportation tiedown.
  • Create New...