Mike65

"CRS" never heard anyone use that term before besides my wife & I, thats awesome.:thumbup1:

Looks good, I am soooooo jealous as my 69 Coupe is still torn apart doing body work.

Go to www.dodgestang.com & go to the classic wheel chart, & then click on the year you want to check for. Hope that helps. Mike.

I would also say like the others before me stay with it & take your time. I have been at mine on & off (mostly off until recently) for the last 10 years. I work on it when the money is available & when I get frutrated I walk away & have a beer & go back to it when I cool off usually a coupole days later, but I love tinkering with these cars. I got this one as a bare shell & want to bring it back to life some day, so I just keep plugging along.

I think the inlet & outlets on the radiator will not line up like your old radiator, If you can hook up the accesories to the 69 systems I would stay with the serpentine set up, & I believe the oil pan will need to be replaced.

WOW!!! that looks awesome. Love the color. My Coupe was originally meadowlark yellow & was thinking when I repaint to keep it yellow but brighter. That would work. Who was the manufacturer of the paint & the name & color code. Is it base coat clear coat?. Mike.

Many years ago I had a 68 GT Coupe that had the factory power front discs & rear drums & I drove the car for 12 years with no problems. For a street car it should be fine. Put the money towards something else.

Mike, if you really want it offer him $50.00 & see what he says, if not put the $100.00 towards getting a repro hood. Mike.

It almost souns like you have a connection problem, loose wire maybe.

Mike, When you go to look at it be careful & take a good look at the front edge. Take a magnet with you & check to see how far back from the front edge the bondo goes.

I am going to purchase a quarter panel skin for my 69 Coupe in a couple months & I have a question for those of you who have done this already. I am going to buy mine from CJ pony parts in Pa. because if they dont have a good deal on the shipping they are close enough for me to go pick it up. They list 2 quarter panel skins in their catalog, one is a no name & the other is a Dynacorn which is $35 - $40.00 more. The no name panel how is the fit around the outer wheel house & at the door opening, & at the tail light panel? TIA, Mike.

WOW!! it is really comming along. Looks good with good solid metal in the back. Keep up the good work & keep the pics comming.:thumbup1:

Mike, I have done the Mach 1 high back bucket seats a while ago for a 68 GT Coupe I was building. Part of the top of the seat back you cant see what you are doing it has to be done by feel. Good luck & alot of paitence are needed but you can do it. When I did mine it was the first time I attempted any upolstery work on my own. Take your time & you might want to leave the upolstery out in the sun for a while to warm it up it will be easier to work with. Hope that helps. Mike.

Awesomw work. Once the winter is over & I start working on my 69 Coupe again I will have to start a build thread here.

I would check with any of the Mustang parts suppliers that sell interior paint, they would probably have it.

From the looks of the pics you will need to remove the suspension on that side & possibly repair (if possible) that shock tower or at worst replace it. Is the upper a-arm loose is that why it damaged the shock tower or is the shock tower just cracked?. BTW where are you in Jersey?.

I love all the pics of your 69 Coupe with all that GOOD sheetmetal, where is the rot hiding? HaHa. All kiddin aside my 69 Coupe being a northeastern car ALL its life has its share of road salt induced rot. Front lower corner of both doors, & in front & rear of both quarter panels. Looks like you have a nice starting point to work with there with that car. Good luck.

I would adjust it so it closes easly, then keep adjusting it down until the trunk aligns with the quarter panels. That is how I did mine.

That is either the lower part of the windsheld post or the upper part of the cowl pan. I just purchased the l/s door post for my 69 Coupe, if you want I can get you the guys contact info who I just purchased some sheet metal from that he cut out of a 69 Coupe?.

Rustang, Try Vintage Mustang forum parts for sale section for 69/70 there are 3 people that are always selling 69/70 Mustang parts & maybe they can help you out with what you need. 1st goes by the name of Horsehead, he is in Va. & has a website www.usedmustangparts.net , 2nd goes by the name Vamustang, he is also in Va. & can be e-mailed at Chrismstage@yahoo.com, & the 3rd one who I just purchased some sheet metal he cut off a 69 Coupe for me goes by the name 4280, you will have to make a post in the wanted section or post in the parts for sale section. Hope that helps you out.

My 69 Coupe is in about the same spot as far as the sheet metal work. My l/s rear quarter is off now. I have to replace the outer wheel house on the l/s & I replaced the trunk floor. I just had to repair a rot spot in the l/s rear frame rail, & I also replaced the tail light panel & the support panel behind it. Was there any reason you welded the quarter at the top instead of trimming it & welding it on the side? That is my next thing I need to tackle & I am trying to get as much info as possible before I start on it. My car was hit in the l/s rear at some time in its life but not to hard so I just straightened the panel that connects the tail light panel to the quarter panel.

Very cool find. The body looks good. You might look at the under dash wiring if it has mouse dropping in the car there is probably a good chance the wiring has been chewed up. Mice are great for doing that. I used to see nests on top of the engines from mice or rodents in the winter time here in NJ when I worked in the auto new car dealership service depts.

I dont know about now but back in the early 70's when I started working on cars with my older brother they were on almost every magazine/book stand.

The way I did it & this was about 30 yrs ago, the glue/epoxy I used was a 2 part glue that came in 2 strips looked like & had the consistancy of clay. I would mix the 2 parts together & flatten them out & lay them in the window channel & then set the window in with the window rolled most of the way up & closed the door. (BTW the door panel is off) Then I would raise the window the rest of the way up until it was in the full up position centering the window front to back as needed as I was raising it. The glue/epoxy had a long cure time so it was possible to move the window in the track. It had said to get to full cure it would have to sit for 24 hrs. I believe I got it from an auto parts store. You could also try to contact a glass installer & see what they would use. Hope that helps.

Hi Ken, Those fenders look awesome. Which hood did you order?.