Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kenyu73

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner
  • Birthday 07/01/1973


  • Location
    Upstate, New York
  • Interests
    Technology and cars
  • Occupation
    Computer Engineer
  1. I think that may be somewhat normal. My tires sit about 1" closer to the front of the wheel housing as well. I think your 30" wheels just make it that much closer!
  2. Thanks for the confirmations on the center hole! Using the top hole would push your wheel even more forward. Unless you used that hole, then using the center would fix ya up... Never did an engine build thread. Engine is still in the car untouched.
  3. Anyone else happen to know for sure?
  4. The ubolts dont connect here, those connect to a bracket under the axle. The axle mount sits flat on top of the leaf.
  5. I'm putting my rearend back up and I'm not sure which "hole" in the axle mount is used for the leaf guide. I'm thinking the center hole?? 351/auto [ATTACH]11279[/ATTACH]
  6. Finally, the rear is all completed! Well, mostly... I still have a bit of touch up grinding here and there, but the panel welding is all done. :yes: I need to do the finish bodywork still, but for now just some primer to protect and I'll do the (hopefully minimal) "bondo" cleanup once all all metal repair is completed. (frame rails replaced with Dynacorn)
  7. The ~1/4" hang over the door jam bothered me, so I cut the 10 or so tacks and re-did the panel starting with the jam side tight and pushed the "extra" metal to the back where I was able to tap the tail out to fill in the space. Much better now.... Good alignment... Bad alignment....
  8. Is the UCA "shelby trick" the same thing? http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showpost.php?p=59243&postcount=16
  9. Actually, Red and Black. I have a picture in my original/first post of what my goal is to be. I hope you're joking about my welds, they suck! Well, to give myself credit, I'm learning some good tricks as I go (like making tiny bumps instead of huge weld mountains!). :lol:
  10. I've read through some project posts and I've or saw mention of mods to the front and/or rear suspension. I guess to raise or lower the car. Anyhow, I'm looking for a good level and "tough" look. I think I saw where people moved the front strut tower (down?)? I'm assuming to reduce the clearance in the front wheel-housings. Any suggestions on what the common practice is and maybe some links to where the steps are detailed? What are the pros/cons? See my project thread for details of my car. Thanks!
  11. Started tacking in the RH quarter. This one isn't lining up as nicely as the other side, but its all workable. I did the seam on top of the drivers side which was a pain to grind, so I tried the flat side this time. I actually wish I did the top on this side too as the quarter just seems more solid the other way. I have about a 1/4" gap to fill as well as a small jam overhang. Once I get the seam welded in, I'll heat and tap the edge over into the jam.
  12. Rearend all sandblasted and cleaned up with POR15. I'll probably do some rear-end work like new gear juice and such, but not anytime soon. Probably get the brake h/w on sometime this winter.
  13. Front and rear quarter spot welded on as well as the wheel-housing. [ATTACH]9782[/ATTACH][ATTACH]9783[/ATTACH] Quarter seem all welded and ground smooth [ATTACH]9784[/ATTACH] My son being put to work! Trying to get the rear-end all ready. Once the back metal is finished, I'l like to get the rear (and wheels) back on so I can move the car around if needed. [ATTACH]9785[/ATTACH]
  14. Hammer and a big socket! Well, that's what I did 20 years ago before I was introduced to the technique of slow forced compression (ie: c-clamp!). Actually, some cars have threaded pistons where you cant compress them, you have to turn them in. I think those are only newer cars tho. Dont forget to open your brake fluid cover if the calipers are still hooked up.
  • Create New...