etel64

Not sure what you mean by harm. A little background info I guess is needed. My cars radiator originally had the inlet and outlet tubes above each other, which some say the water would not pass through the cooling tubes. This would make the engines run higher operating temps. Ford must have noticed this also and from what I understand changed it in 1970. Not sure about the early/late 69 motors. All 69s that I have seen have them above each other. This made perfect sense to me and I decided to buy the aluminum radiator with staggered inlet & outlets. I then used the 1970 water pump and then realized I needed to move the timing pointer. Then came figuring out the pullies. I used March on my 69 Mach but used CVF on my 289 Cougar. These pulley folks know exactly what this setup is about. I have a substantial amount of clams in my motor also and am in Texas where summer temps are just plain old mean sometimes. I also used (2) electric fans pulling a total of 2700cfm/minute and have no problems with temperature. Hope this helps.

Please dont take risks with the coil spring removal. These dang things are under a lot of pressure and should be treated as a loaded weapon would be. If you dont have a spring compressor "handy", got to your local parts chain and they will "loan" you one. PS: I have seen a coil get unleashed and it stuck into a concrete block wall.:yes:

I installed a TCP Manual R&P. After driving the car so much, i have determined i should have gone with the power R&P. Folks suggested as long as i am keeping the small block and not too wide a tire. then the non power would be ok. Well, I show this car every Sat night and getting in and backing in is a PIA. I usually need to park in the vacant areas to make it easier. Yeah, the extra 1k would have been worth it.

Joe, welcome to the forum. We are always glad to add another. But..... asking about a part number of a where it goes part is way too much work for me to research that part number. It will be alot easier if you add a picture and ask what part is this and where does it go. We love those kind of challanges.:tongue_smilie:

Ran into the same issue with the same headers. What a PITA ! Many emails and telcons got me no where !!!!!! Send them back and get headers made for a 351W. Hooker swore to me that these are for a 289,302,351w. When I explained that the 351W was 1" taller therby driving the collectors into the floor boards, they offered to allow me to ship them back to them to test fit on their fixture to see if they are made correctly. If they fit their fixture then I would have to pay for the return ship cost. Never once did they acknowledge the 351W being taller by 1" !!!!!!!!!!!!! I already had $500 inot this and just at the end of my rope when i did MORE resaearch and found loads of peep saying the same thing. Hooker is not in the business of correcting this issue is what I have concluded. SO, I will not buy from them again. I went with Dougs midlength headers D669Y and there where no issues. Yeah it cost me more time and $ but I will not do business with a company that denies having an issue with their high :mad:$ product.

There is a chrome screw you remove from the outside on the rear of the trim. The front has a special clip with a nut that is removed from inside the fender well. 5/16" I think. you may need to remove the splash shield to get to it.:thumbup:

Is this for a coupe? I think it is the lower support for the quarter window track.

Of course your welcome. The 70 is pretty much the second half of the family. Welcome aboard. You will find what you need here. Incredible amount of active users with loads of experience who are willing to help.

I had same deal. I used a 4.5" dia thin disk on my grinder. I cut some of the rubber and it flew and melted all over my new face shield.! I was able to cut half way through the bolt. Then i turned it 180 degrees and cut the other side. ta dah !

If i had to do it over, i would have stayed with the orignal door and repaired the shell and reskin it rather than go for a dynacorp. I found the latch mech holes didnt line up right and also had issue with the window crank holes being off. Tweaking yes but then came the issue of not getting enough alignment for the window adjustment. Had to bend and modify slide rails to make it work and im still just that little bit off. To add to my scerio, it was all painted made things more difficult.

RIGHT Metuchen Plant Build date - Feb 28

I did a complete restomod and used an AAW. i found it was very easy.