RPM

I told you he has skills. 
 
 

Any of them can fail, but some of the best are:
Motorcraft- it is made overseas now but Ford has procedures for qualifying vendors partially based on failure rates. This is what I run.
NAPA Echlin
Standard Motor Products

Modified cowl panel. Tacked 1/8 rod around perimeter on the bottom, cut away the slots, tacked 1/4-20 studs on the bottom side, welded shut washer nozzle mount holes, drilled new washer nozzle holes on top,  sanded, skim coat of bondo, sanded smooth, primed, wet sanded, primed again. It'll get aluminum or SS mesh and the studs trimmed if too long. I have 3 more of these if it doesn't workout.

Yeah us Yanks are very zen

They bolt on fine, but the driver side leaks. I think the ports are too big for the headers, and its squeezing out the bottom of one pipe. I have tried *everything* to stop it. Funny, it only leaks on pone port on one side. The heads have been mildly ported so maybe the man got a bit keen on one port?
Anyway, Stan has built and sent a new set for me. I pick them up September 14 when I go to Bristol for the NASCAR race. Cannot wait, even though they cost me $2,000 local currency.

Hey Folks!
Just jumping on this thread before the next bandwidth collapse to show my appreciation and HUGE tip-of-the-hat to Jim and these astounding quality interior panels he's made!  My set showed up in perfect order with a new set a hockey stick trim and they all fit perfectly!  SO much better quality than the old factory parts!  Thanks for (another) awesome set of parts Jim!

it was about once a year...and then I lost count

Lets hope the site isn't just "visiting" and will stick around a while. This is getting most discouraging.

Ya, that sucks for us Cali guys as he was just up the road in Fredno. 

I wasn't.... At first lol.  It just got to the point where I didn't like some of the metal work done a long time ago and the shape of the shock towers and frame rails. Yes, I could have fixed everything and I seen others fix them up by patching, but I didn't trust my skills to do that and decided to get new metal.
Anyways, we finally figured out what we had going on with being out of square. I don't know how we did it but when we measured and welded the frame rail into the passenger floor support it was in too deep. We decided it was easier to cut it loose from the transmission crossmember than cut the floor support from the frame rail. This will mean we can't use the floor support for any future measurements unfortunately. But everything is square now and the torque boxes are in. I will get a picture and post updates in my build thread probably. Hoping to make some good progress today!
Thanks for the help!

I put in some threaded rod. Got the frame rails spacing right, then found that it was out of square somewhere. Just finished cutting the welds from the passenger floor support to transmission crossmember to move that side. 
We are currently remeasuring the car to the datum line, checking for square, then going to try tacking some things together.
Finally I think we are going to fit the doors and fenders somehow to see how gaps are.

I get that bouncing sensation too.  Usually when the car is in first fear and the gas pedal is on the floor.  Brian

BTW, found the major culprit.  
While doing work in the engine compartment, I (or someone working with me) had somehow pulled the wiring harness away from the shock tower, and it had touched the exhaust manifold bolt.  This managed to burn a small section of the harness, and fused the left turn signal wiring to the wire leading to the solenoid.  It took a long time for me to find, as the spot was on the bottom of the harness and not visible upon looking down at the wiring.  It wasn't until I actually grabbed the harness that I felt the burnt spot.  So some wire splicing later, it's fixed.  
Yeah, hitting the left turn signal kicked on the starter, but there was no power to the coil, so it didn't actually start, just kept spinning.

Closing this one off.
First, I had been supplied 69 inner tie rod ends, not 70. Didn't think to check them properly when I fitted it all up.
Then the shop I had do the wheel alignment must have done a hack job, as the second shop that came recommended made it steer better.
I would not say it is fully happy, but it is very much improved to what I had.
At least now I can join the people saying that the Borgeson conversion is good.

I found out about the JAK bracket in a parts for sale ad on a Boss 302 forum. The president of JAK Precision Machining left his email in that ad.
I contacted Tim this morning and he said he they still plenty of the JAK brackets in stock. He also shared a few photos of a JAK bracket next to a Boss 302 and a Boss 429 bracket.
Tim Barker
President
JAK Precision Machining LLC
972-342-0588
timbarker01@sbcglobal.net

Nice progress. Ya, don't worry too much about those paint chips, they're badges of honor that show you drive your car. If we can just get  @Caseyrhe over his fear of getting a paint chip maybe he'll drive his beauty.
 

Well I got a reply back from Patriot who tell me these headers are not designed to fit Dart heads. Summit don't say they will or won't :(
Anyway, Stan at FPA has really stepped up and is building me a set to pick up when I go to the Bristol NASCAR night race next month. It's only a $2,000 cost, what else would I do with the cash.

Update on this bump steer. Borgeson stated they had not found an issue in all their installs. They did suggest to pull the pitman arm and see if any paint was preventing it form sitting higher up on the sector shaft, which was going to be plan B.
Whilst thinking about the steering I pulled the sump to fix the rear main seal leak. Half a tube (literally) of Dow Corning black silicone later it was back on. It don't leak so far, fingers crossed. Looked up and the p/s pump had a weep from the pressure hose. Reefed on that fitting to tighten it.
Whilst under there I had a look at the tie rod ends. Found out that I had been supplied 1969 items, not 70 which may not have helped the steering issue. I replaced them with new 1970 ones.
I thought I'd try another shop for a wheel alignment, so I went to one recommended by another Stang owner, which luckily was 20  minutes away. An hour later, the new shop had pretty much dialled out the problem. It's not *perfect* but it is much better than it was. I'm glad that is sorted.
Last, found a helpful person on the Holley Sniper forum, who gave me some tips and provided a new configuration file. The PCV valve was the older flapper style so I spent 28 bucks on Amazon getting a fixed orifice one, and plumbed it into the front vacuum port of the Sniper. The oil breather cap was also puking oil out when I gave it a Big Rev, so I replaced it with a Cleveland (uurrgghh) style cap with the hose into the air cleaner. It still leaks, but only slightly.
The new tune was pretty wild - lit up the rears in first and second on power, and rolling in second it would light them up at will. (I had some fun with a sports bike behind me, showing him the side stripe at will). Not really practicable but, so I pulled the timing back a bit which has toned it down. But I miss the sideways action so I might stick a couple of degree's more timing back in (insert evil emoji here). But it sounds alright I think.

IMG_0523.MOV After all that, I finally washed it after 10 months of shop dust got to me, and hit with a random DA polisher and some Poor Boys EXP paint sealant. It's a good looking car from 10 feet but the paint is crud and I have managed to put all sorts of chips and marks in the paint. Lucky I prefer drivers not show queens.

And I'll thank you again Terry, but here publicly for having your daughter look into this. I'm petty sure she nailed it with stolen bandwidth. 

Up at the top left, Store, Donations, and click the donate button. You need a PayPal account. If enough people donate the amount doesn't need to be large... but I lets face it, most people do not donate.
When the site was down for an extended period and no one could contact Ben, I asked one of my kids to look at the site in a public- non intrusive way. They have access to a report that can be run on any site that will tell it's activity, and the site doesn't have to be up and running. She said that this site gets lots of activity and many other sites would be envious- we're talking thousands of hits. It seems to be mostly for pictures, wire diagrams. etc. People are looking for information- just like we are, but they aren't willing to pay for the knowledge gained. I'm sure Ben would be grateful for any donation. He doesn't make any money running this site- he looses money. I'm just grateful that he takes his time and money to provide this service. So guys, if you like the content and it has helped you personally, and you want it to continue, then donate based on how it has helped you.

Got a new complete wiring harness (American Autowire) for when I'm ready to install. Also got a Nu-Relics electric window kit. It was about $100 cheaper from MCB parts (chevy) than CJPP for the same kit. The machine shop is still working on my heads. I checked in last week and since mine wasn't a big priority they were working other jobs first. I expect them to be done next week.

 

I have a 351 W in my '70 Convertible. I used Hedman Elite Shorty Headers (88650 Series).   I did this for a couple reasons  First is I needed to clear my Borgeson steering box.  Second, i needed to clear the C-6 that I am running on the car.  I used Stage 8 locking bolts.  Everything fits and sounds great.
 

Might as well provide an update for this issue now that the forum is working again.  After researching a bit I dug up a thread here on this forum from 2019 and found that there was a company that made a bracket that fits a double pumper named Sanco Specialties. The guy running that company disappeared in his airplane so the bracket production stopped several years ago. Recently a company in Texas named JAK Precision Machining reverse engineered a Sanco bracket and started offering them for sale.  I picked up one of the JAK brackets and found the fit to be excellent.
 

Thank you sir.  The forum software needs a update as well which also has a fee, so donations will go towards that if our license has expired. I will also explore another option.  Which is to let the forum software company host the site which could eliminate these type of problems and spam.  

C4 has a vacuum line to the vacuum modulator valve at the bottom side of the C4 ,it has a short rubber elbow to the modulator ,they rot and split