RPM

I would move the bend out further.

I think I read that the missing airplane guy also made the fender extension broken tab glue on fix it piece. Wonder if JAK is making those also. Busch do you have contact info for JAK you can share?

Nice progress. Ya, don't worry too much about those paint chips, they're badges of honor that show you drive your car. If we can just get @Caseyrhe over his fear of getting a paint chip maybe he'll drive his beauty.

And I'll thank you again Terry, but here publicly for having your daughter look into this. I'm petty sure she nailed it with stolen bandwidth.

Does the C4 have any vacuum lines to it like the FMX?

I've got a few guy's emails and phone numbers that I contact when things go south. If anyone would like to share your info with me I'll keep you informed with what little I know.

I've not heard of the center link causing bump steer issues, nor of anyone modifying it or changing it. IMO bump steer on our cars is caused mainly after we lower them, and do the Shelby/Arning upper control arm drop. When you draw a line thru the static location of the control arms and steering arm, they should meet in order to keep the angles correct, and not cause for in or toe out. Many people use a bump steer kit which allows you to move the steering arm connection at the spindle arm, which will reduce bump steer greatly.

Thanks for the honest review.

This guy forgot about installing the fender extension moldings before attaching them to the fenders. It can be done when the extension is bolted to the fender, but I'd rather stack BBs that do that again.

My AFR 185 heads don't have much sealing area around the ports and between the bolts. After blowing out a couple of gaskets I cut vertical reliefs in the flange. No problems since with the then cheap Hedmans. Cutting the flanges was nothing compared to rerouting the tubes.

Bump steer on our cars is actually bump toe in and out. On older cars with a straight axle the wheels would turn left out right when going over a bump. You can measure for toe change on your suspension by taking out the front springs, moving the spindle thru its arc, and measuring the toe at ride height, compressed, and extended. The only time my car was squirrelly was when I had too much static toe out. I agree that a taller spindle will result in a Shelby drop effect.

Wow! That is quite impressive. Congrats.

What setting do you have then at. I've got QA1 DS 501s on all 4 corners, for around town I've got them all on the softest setting.

They mount from the back side. The clock bezel must be installed before the dash pad is installed, and removed after the pad is removed. I think many tabs are broken because people think the pad is removed on the passenger side like the driver side, by removing the top 3 screws at the top of the bezel.

I hate it when life gets in the way of Mustangs. Regarding welding torch shake, when using a mig and after getting the pieces tacked together, use your off hand at the end of the torch to steady the path of the weld. When using tig, if you've laid down an ugly bead, go over the bead a second time with your torch hand as close to the cup as you can get. You can also steady the torch using your off hand.

Regarding your bump steer: •What are the symptoms? •Have you done the 1 inch Shelby/Arning drop of the upper control arm? •Is your suspension lowered?

Good choice. But I wouldn't use an 8 inch behind it. Ford used a 9 inch behind the 351s, 8 inch for 289 and 302s.

Email Doug.

After fixing your issue, I'd recommend doing the horn relay mod.

Just to confirm our agreement of you not painting the car, right?

Terry, the part number of the short Quiet Flows are #22430. And his are for 2 inch tubing, he doesn't know if the shorts are offered in other sizes. Doesn't really matter as the Walkers neck down inside to 1⅝ inch. I've heard the exhaust on Mustangs with both long and short Walkers and couldn't hear any difference.

I believe the Mustang Steve group guys who have the Walkers out the back have one off muffler shop pipes. The 21856 is a really tight fit, requiring cutting an inch of the rear outlet, and immediately 90° up and over the axle. I do know Walker makes a shorter version, but don't know the model number. Bullet Bob on the MS site has the shorter version, I'll get that for you on Monday.

Ya, run more caster if you can, and with those parts you should be able to. I run 7° caster with manual steering without issue. "They" say return to center is lacking with Borgeson PS, and more caster helps its return.

Nice. It's shining like a new penny.

Coming along nicely. Ya, anything OE shaker related is stupid money. My shaker hood trim ring which came on my $25 shaker hood circa 1995 had a crack on the rear center. Around 5 years ago a fellow Mustanger had a pristine ring for sale at $200. I couldn't see spending that much as I had one that could be repaired. I'm afraid to check out prices today.