aslanefe

Are the polarity of LED lights correct?

Looking at your after specs, I would increase the caster.

I know this is an old thread but I found some headlights in Europe that look like the Cibie but cheaper. H1 high and H4 high low in 5 3/4” and H4 in 7”. Also found Narva 100w H1 and 90/100w H4. Will be buying them and taking pictures of the light pattern on a wall to post on the forum. Might be able to bring some extras if there is interest.

Can you use the loop part of velcro? I think the advesive backed type is available.

Sounds like bad ground connection to me.

I see at least one zerk on open tracker's site on 1969 idler arm picture where the heim joint is. The photo shows only one view so there may be a zerk on the other end not visible on the picture.

I believe Open tracker roller idler has 2 zerks as you have to lube the roller and the heim joint. But I think there are idlers with 2 zerks without rollers two. If you look at regular mustang part supplier's web catalogs, you see one idler with 2 rubber bushings on ends (without zerk fitting) and another idler with helm joint on one end and 2 zerks (one at each end) and they do not specify those idlers as roller. So I assume and per what barnett468 says above, those have rubber bushing on the other end.

Says, ships in 27 days. I guess it takes the boat from China 27 days to get here.

So, there is the original style idler arm with replaceable bushings on both ends. Then there is the one printdad bought shown above with helm joint on one end and rubber bushing on the other; is the rubber bushing replaceable on this kind? Then the opentracker roller idler which has helm joint on one end and roller bearing on the other end. Am I correct?

Then, what are the zerk fittings for?

If it has 2 zerk fittings, I would think that is has bearing instead of rubber bushing.

Pot metal.

That is the picture of the last hanger before rear valance. There is an other (or 2) front of the axle under the rear seat

That is a project, are you going to keep anything besides the top frame?

Looks like RPM used two standard bushings, cut the bigger one in half and slid over the small one. If you can't find that bushing, you can get standard bushings from a hardware store; Tractor Supply in my area has decent selection of bushings.

Guillaume69, I would put the bolts for the upper ball joint on top, nuts on bottom; in case nuts get loose and fall out, the bolts will stay. Also, +5 to +6 degrees of caster makes the car more stable. You need to modify UCA or get a modified UCA for more caster. I am going to write a DYI to modify the UCA for more caster soon.

Can't you measure the stroke through spark plug hole by rotating the crank with a piece of straight something resting on the piston?

I'll take them if still available.

I think he is asking about the piece between the quarter and taillight panel. By the way, as far as I remember, there are 2 pieces there.

What are the 2 different quarter panels and extensions for 70 vert? As far as I know, 70 vert quarter is like 69 coupe/vert quarter without the dummy vent on the front, and extension is like 69 coupe/vert with body line matching the line above side marker.

Location?

FYI, on android tablet, I can click on Buckeye's pictures from 2012 (or any picture hosted on photobucket and linked that says 3rd party sharing is disabled) and open them on a new tab and view them. Did not try that on a pc though. Try opening the pictures in a new tab.

That was a special order option back then. Option code was "Lucky 0.25" and you needed to know a Ford exec to be able to order it.

Easy way is to run water with a hose into cowl, on both sides one at a time and watch the water run or drip inside. Your floor board pictures, especially the drivers side looks like cowl leak to me.

If you have factory power steering, some play comes from the design of the control valve. For PS. Let someone wiggle the wheel and you look at the input to steering box and movement of the pitman arm, not the movement of the tires to see if you have play in the box.