AMBISBUTS

Are you certain that ALL Torino GT's in 69 had these holes? Please post a pic of yours.

Regards,
T.

As I have been working on getting this chassis ready for bracing yesterday, I needed a way to keep the poor thing a little more stable. With the rocker out of it makes it impossible to hold it still without welding something in it's place. So instead of welding / fastening a temporary brace in the car, I chose to just temp install the parts that will be installed. Interesting concept, but at least I'll know that they will fit. The car came with some replacement pieces that could be used, like the inner rocker. This part came from the factory on the long side in order to make all the tabs and connecting flanges manually. Starting with the given point of 22" for the rear wheel well area to the seat belt hole, I made the appropriate tabs out of the extra material and bent them in their proper direction and angle. The Weld and Sealant manual is a good reference for the direction of the tabs, not so much on the size or location. I seem to be doing a lot of inner rocker installs as of lately, practice makes perfect lol
 

 
Fitting it in the rear torque box area and over the floor reinforcement piece required a little persuasion as the rear of the car was moved up, kinda neat how much it moves vertically. Getting the inner rocker to fit correctly took a bunch of clamps and some strategic hammer blows to get it situated. Surprisingly enough, it went in and was level (measuring level at the middle top portion) just like the other side. The old part does have surface rust that will be taken care of before it is welded in place. 
 

 

 
When I built the table, the second crossmember was measured and placed to align with the front of the torque boxes for a good reference point. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part.
 

 
The mark I made on the inner rocker was the outside of the forward torque box, so the thickness of the front of the box (I allowed .125") for the bend radius plus the metal thickness. This is another place that the factory makes tabs on the inside of the rocker to have more attachment points, I go a little bit farther and cap the end of the "tube" for more strength. This inner rocker is not tapered up towards the front torque box, which might have to be another modification. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Prepping the area by grinding down the PO's leftover spot weld remnants (thanks whoever took it apart, you did a great job lol) the outer portion of the torque box popped right in place. Using a couple 18R vise grips to hold it up I installed the inner rocker on it's outboard side. (not in the picture)
 

 
I did test fit the outer rocker before any of this was attempted, it fit fairly well. It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. Once all these pieces are happy in their new positions (sheet metal screwed together) I can get the doors on this and continue getting the chassis braced and properly supported. So far, so good

Can any one identify the Mfg. and  part number of this steering wheel.
 
I thought it was a Grant but couldn't find an identical one on their site.
 
Thank you!

Hey all, first post here. Long time fan of mustangs, especially '69-70' mustangs. I have a '68 coupe in the garage, but have always wanted a '69-'70 ever since I helped out in a local shop in high school that restored only rare, and valuable '69 and '70s. (Shelby, Boss, Mach 1 SCJ, etc.)
Long story short...
Stumbled across a 1970 Sportsroof 302 2v, A/T 3 miles from my house. It's a bare bones car, with manual steering, front drum brakes, and no A/C. (All of which can be changed obviously, but currently hurts it's value) It's been sitting in the barn since 1988. It is a 1 owner car, bought new in 1970 from the local ford dealership. Clean title in hand. The owner bought a new Ford Ranger in 1988, backed the mustang in the barn, and never drove it again. The car is rusty unfortunately.  The 18 years it spent on the road were mostly on winter, salty, Indiana roads. lol.
 
It for sure needs:
2- Quarter Panels
2- Fenders
Full Floorpan
Front Bumper
Full Interior
Driver's Door
A couple of areas on the frame will need repaired as well. 
I've included pictures of some of the worst areas. 
 
My biggest question is: Is it worth it, or should I spend the extra 3 or 4k on a cleaner car? Tools, and garage space aren't an issue, as I have mig and tig welders, plasma cutter, cutting torch, grinders, etc. 
 
He is asking $4k. I was thinking it would be more enticing if it was closer to the $2500 range. I've got a gut feeling that this is probably nothing more than a parts car in it's current condition.
 
Thoughts?? 
 






 

Dang, how'd I miss the entire month of posts? Excellent work Mike!

Used Weiand Xcelerator single plane intake for a square bore 4v carb on a 351c with 2v heads.
 
Good low end for a single plane manifold. Was going to use for EFI but sold car.
 
$100 + shipping

I'm trying to install the lower steering column trim on my '70, but I can't figure out what these metal clips attach to, there doesn't seem to be anything in the area to clip it to. I have a repo instrument bezel, wondering if there's something missing.
Thanks,
Matt

great read of the blog sven, great render of the car mate. Did i read correctly it carby engine, will it still be 302 boss engine?

I'm seriously looking at doing the headliner for the coupe. I found a very nice and depenable guy that has been making molds for me. So, what I really need to know is how much demand is there for it  ? I have at least 40 other new products I could spend my money on.

So, I noticed a spot under the rear of my car, and checked it out.
 
3 hours later, after draining 10 gallons of gas out of my tank...
 
My fuel line between the tank and my SS fuel lines in the car was a short piece (less than 6") of SAE-30R7 3/8" fuel line that I got from NAPA.  It's been on the car about 6 years, and when I touched it, pretty much cracked in my hand.   Then, looking around, I wiggled my fuel sender wire, and that started leaking.  
 
The bottom line is that the "rubber" parts at the tank end of my fuel system are shot.  So, I had to drain the tank, and I need a new fuel sender and new fuel line.
 
I normally use Ethanol free gas, or over the Winter, use a Sta-Bil product that is supposed to deal with the Ethanol effects.
 
Anyway, my approach has not been effective.
 
Looking for advice/recommendations/tips on replacement strategy to avoid doing this again.   I am headed to the front of the car over the weekend to check my rubber fuel line transition from the frame rail to the fuel pump feed, and then the fuel pump to the carb.  
 
Thanks.....

Hello all after being here for over 7 years & seeing other builds I figured it is time for me to start one on my 69 Coupe. I aquired the 69 Coupe back in 2001, & when I aquired the car it was being used as a parts car stripped of almost anything useable. It was missing both doors, the interior except for the dash, the engine & the trans were long gone, & was missing one fender. After 4 moves & one failed business venture I am back working on the 69 Coupe. The Coupe was originally equipped with a 302, auto, 8" 2.79 rear, standard black interior, painted meadowlark yellow, & built in Metuchen, NJ on Nov 26th, 1968. My plans for the car are to make it a restomod, 331 stroker, 5 spd trans, 9" rear with 3.70 gears, painted green with black GT side stripes & a 1970 Mach-1 hood stripe with the Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers. Black standard interior with 1970 Mustang high back buckets, center console & Mach-1 r/s dash panel with clock. As far as wheels & tires the wheels I had on my first Mustang were Ansen sprint slotted wheels & I want those or the 68/69 GT wheels with BFG T/A radials 235/60-15's. The wiring will be completely redone using an American auto wire kit for the 69 Mustang. I will get some pics put on soon.
Mike.

I decided to ditch the 302 build and finally use the 1969 351w block I have been saving for many years. 
I've read probe makes a good 408w kit. 
Anyone know who or where I can call to discuss what kit to buy?
 
How about the heads, I was going to use some trick flow 11r 190 heads. Would those still be good or should I get the afr 205 heads? Or smaller?
 
I'm worried I'll have piston to valve clearance issues. That's why I want to talk to the stroker kit vendor to make sure I'm good and have a 91 octane friendly compression :)
Thanks guys

Hey RCE Was wondering when I would see ya on here again LOL...Good to know you got that motor up and going.
to answer your 4R70W question...Yes all you really need is the Bauman controller and a 4R70W that is in good working order, along with a flexplate that is the correct balance for your motor.
There are a few Caveats tho... If I recall the bauman controller requires that the transmission have High Impedance Solenoids in the pan, this can be checked by popping off the pan and looking or getting a trans from a year model known to have the high impedance solenoids... but they can be had for cheap from the Ford Dealer and are easy to swap out. 
So heres the list of what ya really need.
 
1. Transmission with converter
2. Bauman Controller with their complete harness
3. Correct Flex-Plate
4. Transmission Cross Member to fit 4R70W...can be modified stock unit or one from Joe Persad
5. Possibly need a new driveshaft or may need your shortened or the Yolk changed to a 4R70w Big yolk depensing on the year 4R70 you get. 
 
That pretty much covers it bud...Sounds like a lot but it isn't.
I recently picked up a sweet deal off of my little mustang sites on facebook, one guy had a complete Bauman controller with harness set up that I got for $400.00 and it was their latest controller, then saw another guy whose mom ran her car hot and burnt the motor up so she gave him the car and he was parting it, and she had just had the transmission replaced by a reputable shop in Baton Rouge, when it showed up at my house and we pulled it out of the back of his truck you could tell it was fresh and even came with a brand spanking new converter and flexplate LMAO.. Paid $150.00 for that... So right now I got $550.00 in the setup Im going to put into my 66... Just keep your eyes open the stuff pops up all the time....
You can use a 4R70 that comes from behind a V6 also btw, don't have to be a V8 donor, long as the bell housing is the same it will work, but you just have to remember they are not all created equal and some are better than others

Hey all -- I have some left over / unused parts from my resto. No longer needed, starting another project, cleaning house.
 
Got some dash panel pieces & gauge assembly parts. Not sure what to ask on these? Open to offers / suggestions, would prefer dash panels & gauges go as a lot. Pics:
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
I also have some Global West tubular subframe connectors that I bought new but never installed- SOLD
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
And lastly, here is a set of A-pillar trim for a fastback. These are reproduction pieces that never got used because I found a good set of originals. $50 obo + SH.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Just PM me here if needed. Thanks for looking.

looking for a 69 351W air cleaner base.

I got the doughnut (foam) gaskets and plastic insert from Muscle Car Research. When I put the doghnut gasket (C9AZ-3E629-A Steering Column Shaft Insulator)
in the smaller tube, the steering column rod is very tight to turn, there is too much pressure from that gasket.
 
www.musclecarresearch.com/C9AZ-3E629-A
 
Any ideals what to do, should I put some oil on it.
I want to leave it out. How did this work with the original set up

Hey everyone, 
 
So got my car back a few days ago and I noticed for some issues with my c4. When cold, it doesn't want to upshift when in Drive. It does go in reverse and 1-2 are fine when shifting manually, but when I go into drive it over revs, or seems like it goes back to 1st.
 
When the car is all warmed up the car can shift through all 3 gears, the shift points are much wider now as I assume they adjusted the shift points but they are denying they didn't touch anything. When Cold, I check the fluid level and it shows little to no fluid, when warm the fluid is at level. 
 
the thing shifted great before I dropped it off, I spoke with the owner of the shop to look into this.
 
I checked vacuum on the modulator, and I am getting pressure. Any suggestions? could it be incorrect fluid? or stuck relief valve? Its push-in modulator and trans was built by Performance automatic a few years back. 
 
Thanks, 

Hi.  New member here.   A fellow forum member told me about this site, so I will be posting my project details here over the next months (years).
 
My car is a "F" code 1970 convertible, originally a auto/AC car with power top.   2 years ago, I obtained the car from a storage building in Las Vegas, from a friend who had an older family member who had give up on the project.  
 
I loaded the car into a POD, and transported it back home to North Carolina.   Over the past 2 years, I have been sorting and refinishing parts, and this week, had my friend at LatoRacing (forum member) come out and get the car to sort out the sheet metal work that needs to be done.
 
I will post some pics of the find, the transport, and progress since I obtained the car, and once caught up with that, will have LatoRacing post pictures of the progress.
 
Current plan is to build a Mach I style convertible, with a 393 stroker, C-6, 4 link rear, and rack and pinion/coil over front end.   Engine, trans, and interior are done and ready to be installed.
 
Look forward to documenting my project.
 
Regards,
 
Vic
 
 

As my car is in the body shop, and my engine is at home on the stand, I am trying to source a radiator/fan/shroud combination that will fit in the space between the radiator support and my water pump (long) serpentine pulley.
 
I have 351 Windsor based stroker. My radiator core is going to be around 2-1/4 inches thick.  My radiator guy at DeWitt says he can get me 2-12" fans and a shroud that will fit in less than 6" space, using slimline SPAL fans.
 
Any experience, ideas?
 
Any dimensions from waterpump pulley face to radiator support if you have a small block would be appreciated.
 

I rolled my new project out of the storage lot, and took it home to start bringing it back to life. I bought the car back in January of this year, and have been gathering parts in order to make it a reality instead of an idea.


This is a true Graber Special, Marti report and all, also know as a "poor mans" Boss 302. This one had a 302 2v, auto, manual drum, and power steering. I told my Wife when I bought it, that I purchaced a rolling roof with a title. She had not seen it since its purchace and was questioning my sanity after rolling it off the trailer. I have started with worse, and at least this project is fairly well "rust free" (ha-ha). It will stay Grabber Green, but the build will be a G-Machine theme. I am waiting on Street and Track to come out with their new rear suspension later this year, to see what they come up with. 

I am going to try out Dynacorn sheet metal on this build, and see if it fits any better than some of the other ti-chen stampings offered by other vendors. The full quarters look good out of the box, hope they don't require a bunch of fitting (cutting in half, beating, re building,ect...). Been there, done that. I did go ahead and get the Goodmark mini tubed inner fenders to use, I could have widened some regular ones, which would have been cheeper in the long run.

I would like to be able to build these cars on a regular basis, so this one is going to be sort of an extream advertisment. I am not going to jump into a business venture quite yet, but ease into it, if it works. Playing with rusty old cars has been part of my life, and I enjoy most every aspect of it. Well see where it goes.
The only part of the build I have not decided on is to build it as a 1970, or 69ish Boss 302? I have always wanted a G coded 69, and could make one, just not so sure yet. Any way, here are a couple of pics as I dig into what is left of this body, and this is the way I bought it, less work for me? My Wife is still wondering...
 
 

Need to get new lcas, whose brand is the best.
One of mine has a rust hole. small one too.
Got Moog or Scott Drake down here.

I had someone over to install a new windshield in my convertible today, when he got it off the truck it was scratched, so it was a no go. They were going to charge me $300 installed. Now I'm thinking about just doing it myself. I already took the old one out, stripped the frame to bare metal and painted it with catalyzed paint. I have the dash out too. How tough of a job is it? CJ's has my windshield on sale for $150.
 
Thanks,
Matt

Here is what we've been working on.
 
 

I am looking for a passenger 69 coupe extension with holes for the deluxe molding. Must have no cracks in it.

Would anyone know of a good assembly manual for my 70 Mach 1?
Thanks,
Bill