quoriSer

70 convert, 302/auto, PS, PDB, orig working A/C. Motor to my knowledge has not been rebuilt, does not smoke, has alum 4 barrel intake and carb, but have orig 2 v intake/ carb. Trans was rebuilt several years ago, have receipt. New exhaust with factory exhaust manifolds. All Numbers matching, all original sheet metal, and rust free. Professionally painted by Triple F Automotive, spent roughly 10,000. Top was replaced 4-5 years ago and has 4 small 1/4" holes due to screw issues. Interior has new carpet, pad, and new seat covers. Factory am radio installed and still works.
Asking 23,500

Ok Its MY rant about people who do not follow thru or do not read your ad completely.
When you post something for sale and are as honest with your description as you can be because if your not what do you say when they show up and look at it?
You get responses that they have cash in hand then they want to do check or wire transfer, WTF!
Then you get someone who says they want it and will be in touch, please do not sell t to someone else.
So you pull your ad waiting for them to come or call for a week and no reply.
So you re post your ad only to have them email you saying I thought you were selling it to me?
 
Am I losing it or was my ad not clear enough?
 
Not sure how to post it here, Am not that electronic 10 year old smart.
My ad is on craigslist in Portland. Id # 6047003399
 
If you have a moment please read it and let me know what I should add to it.
 
Thanks for your time. 

Let me look. I dont think i will have one but I may. I will let you know if i do find one though. Thanks
 
-Nick
 
P.s I am not sure how these pictures got attached. These are not any that i have uploaded. Tried to delete them but somehow cant. Please Ignore them. Thanks

does anyone do a road trip event across Texas? I would love to do one with other classic cars, if anyone have info that would be great

Hey Guys,
 
It has been awhile since i have been on the boards here. I have a bunch of parts that are from the private stash. All of these parts are in original and excellent condition and some are even restored originals. Below is a list and just some of the pictures i have of the parts.
 
$750.00 - Shelby console insert *Excellent Condition* (Original never mounted) 
$750.00 - 1969 Mustang console *Restored* (Original comes with wiring harness)
$150.00 - 1969 Mustang sport mirrors pair (Original) 2 sets
$45.00 - 1969 Neutral safety switch
$299.99 - 1969 Deluxe door panels *Excellent Condition* Pair (Originals w/out wiring harnesses) Sold + $99.00 for the Quarter panel deluxe panels
$40.00 - Headliner front piece (metal, repainted) Sold
$70.00 - Trim piece set *Excellent Condition* (Set of 7)  Sold
$250.00 - Mach1 hood scoop *Restored* (Complete w/out wiring harness)
$25.00 -  Brand new ashtray gauge pod (Shelby)
$70.00 - Am Radio w/ Knobs * Great Condition*
$450.00 - NOS Dual tip exhaust *Excellent Condition* (w/ NOS box)
$79.99 - Maplight *Restored* (Original w/ wiring) 2 sets  1 left
$10.00 - Ignition switch
$59.99 - Underdash lights *Excellent Condition* (Original) 2 sets
$25.00 - Light switch (Original)
$69.99 - Lock Set (Aftermarket New)
$24.99 - Radio Bezel w/ Wood (Aftermarket New)
$89.99 - Gas cap *Excellent Condition* (Original w/ running horse)
$149.99 - Gas cap *Great Condition* (Original w/ GT emblem)
$19.99ea - 351 Hood scoop emblems (Original) 3 available
$30.00 - Gt rear valance (Aftermarket)
$99.99 - A/c Dash (Original) Sold
$199.99 - Cougar Tach Harness (Engine Bay)
$349.99 - Mach 1 Seats (Original)
$99.99 - Grande Clock bezel w/ woodgrain
$499.99 - 1969 Big Block Shock tower half of a car assembly (everything intacted and perfect no rust)
$199.99ea - Mustang Shaker Scoop (New style not classic mustang) 3 available
$2,999.99 - Police interceptor engine Rebuilt (runs great)
$30.00 - 1969 Cougar front springs (Original)
 
All Prices are obo + shipping. 

A customer called me today about a problem with his 70.  It would crank with the red/blue wire on the first post of the starter solenoid but not when the brown wire was attached there.  He said the assembly manual had it that way.  No way, I said!
 
Sure enough: look at page EO-115-1, View A, and the red/blue wire is indicated with A and the brown wire as E with the E in front and the A in back!
 
Just because it was printed on paper, doesn't mean it is correct...
 
So now it is on the Internet and the error is correct.

Yesterday I purchased 2 used lower radiator saddle brackets I was missing, cleaned off the surface rust, had to straighten one of them, painted them, installed them, & installed the radiator I purchased from MN69Grande here to test the fit. Looks good to me.
 

Now that I have one side of the leaf springs removed & will get the other side out this weekend, I need to remove the shackle bushings that go through the frame rail so I could install the new ones. Any tips or suggestions on how to remove the old ones since they feel like they do not want to come out.

Just saw an ad for a '69 R code shaker repro. Ad claimed all metal as per original, can't tell from original....and priced as if it were an original...lol.
I've always cringed at the price of shakers. Knowing there are as many, or more, 351w cars out there, I would think the market would be there for that part at a fair price point. They currently sell for more than the original price of the whole car.

Any updates MTF?

I'm in the process of welding up my two new fender aprons and new radiator support bracket. I have all this clamped together but before final weld, I put my fenders and hood back on to ensure that everything would align properly. Interesting to me is that there is a cut out in the fender apron in the area of one of the rubber fender bumpers that extends beyond the fender. This on both aprons. With the fender bolted on, one can see daylight through it. I've never noted this before. I attempted to move the fender such that it would cover the cutout but such an adjustment negates proper panel alignment. My fenders are OEM while the aprons are aftermarket. A search on the web shows some fenders have a tab on the fender that covers these cut outs. What's up here? Is the open area as seen on my car normal or is there a problem with the fender apron cutout?
 
 

Now that's classic... ROTFLMAO!!
 
It's a private joke.
"Randy" happens to be Midlife's real first name.
"Robert" has been mistakenly believed by some to be his first name for a couple weeks now. Which annoys him and make us laugh!
 
Nothing more.
G

Yes, we talked about today and decided since we spent this much time on it, we might as well make one. This car will still have the steel one though. I did the same thing on the front bumper of our 66 we're working on. 

It's fiberglass.

It looks like there are several good options to chose, for going from manual front drum brakes to disc.
 
I'm not too interested in power brakes so I don't need to worry about a booster.
 
that said, are any kits superior than others?  I can't really differentiate what makes one better than another:
 
-chockostang is $700
http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/discbrakepowersteering/discbrakeconversions.html
 
-SSBC is $1100
http://ssbrakes.com/i-10093667-1967-1969-ford-mustang-front-non-power-disc-brake-conversion-kit-a121.html
 
-MustangSteve has parts
-Scott Drake (via CJ pony parts) has a kit as well ($700)
 
why would SSBC's kit be $400 more than chockostang?

As my car is in the body shop, and my engine is at home on the stand, I am trying to source a radiator/fan/shroud combination that will fit in the space between the radiator support and my water pump (long) serpentine pulley.
 
I have 351 Windsor based stroker. My radiator core is going to be around 2-1/4 inches thick.  My radiator guy at DeWitt says he can get me 2-12" fans and a shroud that will fit in less than 6" space, using slimline SPAL fans.
 
Any experience, ideas?
 
Any dimensions from waterpump pulley face to radiator support if you have a small block would be appreciated.
 

Wanna trade?? Lol. I'm trying to talk myself into the black. Everyone(my friends and family) knows I hate black cars and would never buy a black car.......and I have probably one of the best muscle cars ever.....and its black. So it's been tough ever since I pulled the marti report on it. Ugghh!! Sad thing is Gulfstream Aqua has been my favorite color on this car since I first saw one like it.....and I always thought it was the original color (for 29 yrs) because it was the only stock color on the underside of my side view mirror.

Gentlemen,
 
I have decided to finally start my first restoration project. I have posted on here before. Since then, I have been checking out this forum for the past three months and have got the fever!
 
 
Attached are some more pics of the car.
 
Here is my plan:
69 Mach 1 R-Code Fastback.
Going with the original 428CJ in it. Painting the car Gulfstream Aqua (original color)
 
I would like some starting tips, pointers, do's and dont's.
 
What do I need to do first? What tools should I get? What order does the car need to be fixed? What things would you farm out? What things would you do yourself?
 
 
Could you all point me in the right direction?
 
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!:helpsmilie:

Looks great!
 
In one of your posts a picture shows the rear quarter panels removed. Did they prime & Seal behind the quarter panels too?

Can't believe you got it in like that with the headers, well done!!!
 
How you did it though has me stumped, mine was no way going to come out with the headers on. I'm not even going to attempt again with the Hookers, I've been told FPA's slip in easy so am going to get them.

That is too funny!! Did they send you a letter too requesting photos?I hate phoney people. LOL.  Oh well.  Looking a little closer, I noticed the rimblow switch is wavy in the channel. I wonder if it just the cheapest thing around. I may consider putting my original back in or I have a new OEM ford switch in the tube.
 
As for the circuit board....I went with the one CJPP has. If it doesnt work out, I will consider having Midlife make a custom harness.

I talked to Dave on Thursday and he said he's getting very close to finishing it up. This was a very challenging project for him. 

My car is not getting power to the rear of the car. And I don't know what happen because it was working until I was putting some bolts back into the lower dash. So the light above in the cabin and the taillight don't get power.

I would do the 3:55.   .     If you are not running an overdrive, the 3:80 will keep your RPMs high  on the highway.   I have 3.73s in my 1968 with a 5 speed, and it is a really good combination.  
 
From strictly a gearhead perspective, The gear ratios that have a common factor (the ring gear to pinion gear ratio have a common number) tend to make more noise.   The 3:55 to 1 will usually have a ring gear with 39 teeth and a pinion gear with 11 teeth.  (no common factor).  I have not seen a 3:80  gear ratio, but my assumption is that it would have 38 ring gear teeth, and 10 pinion gear teeth, the common factor for that ratio is 2. So, more noise, if that matters.
 
Also, check your engine rpm with your tire size and the different rear end ratios.   You will want to compare your engine rpm in each transmission gear with the different gear ratio and tire sizes to make sure you are within the torque band your camshaft.  This will also determine if your stall speed is correct.  Otherwise you may "bog" off the line, or feel "slip" at highway speeds.
 
The TCI and B&M websites have good info on the torque converter sizing considerations.
 
Nice car, I love that you kept the vinyl top....good luck!