bigmal

When I had my brackets out I found the threads to be pretty average probably due to being aluminium and overtightened at some stage. I ended up putting helicoils in all the brackets. Those things work great. 

That sounds like a plan. Thanks.

Car is in primer and looks good, paint next week then home for reassembly and buy more parts again.

For what it's worth. I grew up in a three bay garage owned by my Dad in the 70s. Any time we'd pull a drum off a car, we'd grab an air hose and make this huge black cloud of brake dust, then just walk through it.
My Dad did have two "spots" on his lungs when he was in his late 80s. That's after 50+ years of doing the same thing.
Sure, I'd avoid asbestos but there's quite a few of us that are still around.

I started working in the service department of new car dealerships in the late 70's & all the tech's would do that all the time to clean the drum brakes. I worked in the automotive business for 24 years all out in the service department, I have inhaled my share of asbestos dust.

I've been told I can't refer to my wife as 'my current wife'. I think she reads too much into it.

I've been told I can't refer to my wife as 'my current wife'. I think she reads too much into it.

You gotta love these cars to do what we do.

I feel your pain when paying for an inspection that misses major issues. Good luck with the recovery. Keep the photos coming.

If your car had a lot of underbody coating then it was probably put on after 1969.  I'm only aware that Ford undercoated the wheel wells.  
david

Not sure why Ford bolted the door here ,may have been hard to spot weld or somthing . I have 2 early 69s that have bolts ,my CJ is spot welded here and so are the doors i picked from a 70 coupe .the spot welded ones are tough to twist ,but the bolted together ones are simple just by loosening the bolt and tightening it back once you have twisted it 

In the appliance industry asbestos wasn't removed from products until the mid 80s as I recall. We were in lock step with other American industries at the time.

I used to run Environmental Health and Safety for a large company, and this is a huge issue when working on any "vintage" equipment that may have used materials for fire retardant purposes, or insulation.  There was wide spread use of a material called "mastic" which was used in a paste, or adhesive form. There were some non-US companies that actually applied mastic to car body parts.   Jaguar is one of them.
Fortunately, there are many products available for "encapsulation" of asbestos areas.  These of course, need to be applied by professional and certified individuals.
Lots of info here in the US on this topic.  Just one resource here:   https://www.asbestos.com/
 
 

The black gunk is likely mostly the tar base, still not great to breathe in but not as bad as asbestos.  The problem is the minuscule fibers that create the dust we can see in the air (and that we can't see) which get lodged in the lining of the lung and cause problems down the line.  That being said, the general rate of cancer is slightly less than 2/100 of persons with regular and proximate exposure to asbestos  at levels above background.  Not something to lose sleep over.  

Now you tell me.  I removed all of my undercoating by rubbing it with a rag soaked in gasoline.
I hereby bequeath any residual scrap wiring and Mustang schematics and catalogs to 1869stang.com and any debts to RPM.
May I Rest In Peace.

Thanks for the heads up Bigmal.
A Bit late for the mustang but my 56 F-100 has a lot of this stuff under it so I will need to be careful when getting it off. 

This is a good reminder that asbestos remains deadly and absestos related cancers generally have a latency period of 10-15 years at the minimum, so we can all be lulled into a false sense of safety. Be careful when removing old brake linings, clutches, and gasket material. Also, be aware that some old mufflers contained asbestos as well. 

Our dogs get car sick, so they aren't allowed to ride in the Mach 1.

I thought I would share a mod I just did to my 69.  I used a spoiler from a 1997 Mitsubishi Lancer that I got from the wreckers for $20. The profile of the doner spoiler was almost identical to the Mustang spoiler.
I wanted the light to not be very obvious when walking around the car. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Even if yours don't have the bolt, roll the window down a little and twist by holding bottom and top of the door at the back. It may take some muscle but it works.

It will take a bit more force to twist if it doesnt have the bolt but i think you will be able to do it,you may need a little help though

Yep ,only the early 69s have the bolt in the end of the door like my 69 

Yes i twist them on the car . It is best to remove the door panel ,although i have tristed them with it on . Inside the door at the topback you will see a bolt ,looks like it does nothing ,loosen it first ,sometimes they will twist just by grabbing the top at the end and pull out while pushing in at the bottom . Once you get a good fit ,tighten the bolt back again.you may need to readjust the window at that end after

69 -70s are very prone to door twist .they can easily be twisted back ,kid you not ,i have done a lot of them. The door glass is usually off a bit because of this.

I like that, it looks great. Someone over at VMF did that with his Mach-1 rear spoiler.