simplyj

I have another center link on its way so will report back as to whether that solves the alignment problem. Unfortunately, the car is a long way from being road worthy to test out the borgeson box

repop purchased from CJ pony a while back.

you and John from Opentracker had the same recommendation so I pulled the center link and it does appear it is twisted a degree or two. hard to tell, but with the idler arm mount in line with the floor tile, it's pretty obvious that it's twisted a bit counter clockwise.

I checked the box and it says 67-70 m/s v8 1 1/8" pitman arm. The boss 302 center link is just a bit beefier so takes different inner tie rods than 1969. It's the exact same as the 1970 m/s center link so wouldn't affect the pitman arm selection.

What am I doing wrong here, why won't this fit? 69-70 boss 302 manual center link & new 67-70 manual steer pitman arm. Idler arm is a manual steer roller 67-70 unit from opentracker. Borgeson integrated power steering box. [

sorry, should have been a bit clearer. Wasn't happy with the fit of the molded carpet in my f100. The quality of the carpet itself was fine but the fit was terrible.

I'm not a fan of the por15 rust preventative paints or chassis paints, but these detail paints are fantastic. Cast grey is the best out of the three options as the stainless and aluminum versions have a slight sheen (similar to the duplicolor cast paints). The cast iron grey on the other hand has a matte finish that really does look pretty close to raw cast iron.

working on routing the engine wiring harness. Ended up going with a Holley HP system rather than trying to work with the obsolete Accel DFI gen 7 system I purchased years ago. Aside from having to order some of the 2nd gen sensors (oil pressure sensor, air intake sensor), it's plug and play. Most of the wiring will tuck underneath the shaker airbox. Also using a Ron Francis alternator wiring kit. The HP system has an option to retain the waste spark coil system, although still waiting on tech support to get me wiring details.

I'm a big fan of POR15 cast iron grey detail paint. Hard as a rock and withstands most oils, grease, etc. I've used it on everything from the spindles (pictured below) to motorcycle wheels. It's not a catalyzed paint so won't hold up to sustained brake fluid exposure, but works well for most things. https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Detail-Paint

Want some high quality carpet for my convertible and curious if there are any options other than ACC (searched but only came up with older threads). I have ACC carpet in my F100 (mass backed) and was less than impressed with the quality and fit. Not a restoration, so prefer fit and quality over stock appearance. Thanks!

The pedals are modified sn95 since i'm also using a sn95 hydroboost. I have some more pics of what I did, but essentially modified the cage and it's secured through the firewall and also bolted to the inner cowl. Then swapped in the modified 69-70 brake pedal, chopped the quadrant arm and swapped the quadrant into the inner part of the arm, and added a brake return spring perch. On the firewall side, I welded in a perch for the firewall adjuster and am using a maximum motorsports clutch cable (which is 9 or so inches longer than the stock cable).

you and me both forgot about this build for a while. These pedals are just sn95 pedal pads so there are a few options - I ended up going with the cobra snake version as I felt the oem version looked a bit dated. Not my ideal choice, but works well enough given what's under the hood.

tried spacing it out and then the inner structure rubs against the rear door jamb. It appears it was just assembled poorly. I've tried contacting the local dealer I got it from but it is closed due to covid. I just pulled the trigger on a new one from CJ and will try to sell this one cheap for someone who wants the inner structure for repairs.

While I'm waiting on some engine sensors, I decided to move towards the back and hang the doors. Bought a pair of dynacorn repo doors a while back and the driver's side went on pretty easily with decent gaps. Will need some massaging but fit better than I thought repops would. passenger side was a whole other story. Even with the hinges adjusted as far back as possible, there was a gap you could drive a car through. tossed the old rotted door back on to double check if it's the body or the door and, although not perfect, the gap was significantly better. really scratching my head how the repop door could be so far off. Thankfully my passenger side door shell can probably be saved with a door skin and some patches along the bottom, but currently trying to find a rust free original door.

finally got the engine painted and fully installed. New header studs and gaskets. Headers and poly engine mounts installed and everything bolted down. Next up, running the engine bay wiring harness.