Mach1 Driver

Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know.
Edit, I did a paper on How Alternators Work- see it here in the How tos.

There are two schools of thought on wiring
1) Use stock OEM type harnesses from a company like Alloy Metal Products that are available from a vendor like National Parts Depot. This will have a standard fuse panel and exactly match the Ford authorized wire diagrams. The advantage here is that anyone who has a standard wire diagram can help you, or fix the car.
2) Use an aftermarket harness like available from Painless, which will use the new style fuses and incorporate some relays (neither of which is available in option 1). The disadvantage is that you can only get help from that company or someone else that has their product and has their wire diagram.
Personally I will stick with the OEM harnesses and add to them as needed- but I will make a wire diagram showing the additions for the next guy that ends up with the car (and so I remember what I did).
You will never learn if you don't try. It isn't rocket science, but it isn't for everyone.
 

As most everyone has mentioned, the under hood stuff is most likely to be degraded. If you intend using Alloy Metal Products, then call NPD and see what harnesses you would need under the hood for your model and engine, then decide which you want to do, and the order to do them. Since they plug into one another, you could do them one at a time.
For my Mach with a 351w there is; Wire assembly engine gauge feed, alternator feed, wiper motor repair harness, engine ground, wire & plug headlight extension, wire loom firewall to headlight (this is the main under hood harness), wiring harness turn indicator (for the hood scoop signals). I believe there are four others, but they are inside the cabin or trunk.
 

I'll add a third; get your harness refurbished by Randy at Midlife. Present company included, you won't find a nicer, more honest guy on the web.
http://midlifeharness.com/
 Phone Number: 850-624-7528
 

last post.  i shot a little video in car and also from underneath of the rear suspension.
 
 
 

There are two schools of thought on wiring
1) Use stock OEM type harnesses from a company like Alloy Metal Products that are available from a vendor like National Parts Depot. This will have a standard fuse panel and exactly match the Ford authorized wire diagrams. The advantage here is that anyone who has a standard wire diagram can help you, or fix the car.
2) Use an aftermarket harness like available from Painless, which will use the new style fuses and incorporate some relays (neither of which is available in option 1). The disadvantage is that you can only get help from that company or someone else that has their product and has their wire diagram.
Personally I will stick with the OEM harnesses and add to them as needed- but I will make a wire diagram showing the additions for the next guy that ends up with the car (and so I remember what I did).
You will never learn if you don't try. It isn't rocket science, but it isn't for everyone.
 

Jiminy!
Sorry, no help here

Thanks to everyone for the help. Got the timing dialed in (running around 800rpm’s now) and the drive is much better! Might do a little more tinkering, but I think the ignition timing did the trick! 

This is from the wire diagram, page 2-E7. This diagram can be found in the "How tos" section.
FYI, the "blind circuit" where it goes into the plug is just a short section of wire that is put in the terminal with the resistor wire to make a good crimp on the terminal. The resistor wire's gauge is too small to be crimped properly without it. That is a complicated wire assembly that goes to six places, as 297 connects to 904 (another resistor wire) at ignition switch A terminal. Notice where 297A goes to the fuse panel? This could shorten your search- this goes to fuse 1, which is flashers, radio and backup lights. If any of those work then you have power as far as the splice. Also, wire 30 powers the alternator warning light- does it light when the key is turned to ON- not started?

This is from "How Alternators Work" also in the "How tos" section

Hello there, you've come to the right place. As jmlay mentioned, there are several posts that would help. Go to "How to's" and look at "Fixing the Instrument Panel, "A Real Schematic", and "1969 Mustang Wire Diagram".
You've mentioned doing a 9v battery test. Actually it only takes 3v (two D batteries in series) to get the needles to sweep, but it probably did no harm. It sounds like the fault is between the gauges and the senders. So it could be the flex circuit on the back of the instrument panel, the connector to the flex, or the wires. The wire diagram shows both tach and non-tach car wiring- just find the correct page. Same for "Fixing the Instrument Panel- the non-tach version is first and the tach version follows. Let us know if we can help further.
A Schematic simplifies the circuit so you can see at a glance how it works. From your description you probably have an open circuit somewhere in the area of the red arrow (in a couple of places). 

This is from the shop manual- idle RPM is on the bottom line

That engine had around 200hp, 295ft/lbs of torque from the factory with a Holley 4180. You might get 10-20 HP with just a cam change. The Stealth manifold fits well under the hood but again doesn't help more than 10%. The distributor does nothing for HP.
If you want 400HP, that's doable but it will require a combination of carb/EFI, aluminum heads, intake, cam, headers, and exhaust. Something like an Edelbrock top end kit would simplify the choices, or you can blindly pick and choose and hope for the best. If you're like most of us and not an engine builder it will take a lot of research.

It isn't that difficult, get an inexpensive timing light, a tach, and maybe a dwell meter like shown here and give it a whirl:
 

Hi
You cannot use a deep drop base without having issues with the the throttle linkage - I have tried ...it doesn't work without modifying the linkage.
I also tried to use 2-3/4 height KN filter in order to gain some height but still not enough clearance with the hood.
A 2 " air filter my clear the hood but I think it will be restrictive.
I believe it is doable with a shaker hood but some modding of the system will be needed.
Otherwise I am very happy with the system - I re-started my car after 14 months and it has just started as if it was fired one day ago, I think it is the best system in term of driveability and it is very easy to tune.

Hi, I gave a sheet metal shop diagrams of what I wanted and they folded to suit, I then welded them in with some tweaking, I’ve also fitted a support on the inner rockers, similar to a convertible 

We picked up Mike’s car from detailer who touched up nicks in paint and striped the car. Almost done!
 

Bit of an update, side windows in, central locking in, head unit in, almost finished wiring.

I explained the problem of the PF4 not fitting under the hood a 69 with a 351w, and they responded to all my questions including my question about milling down the pad. They included the air horn height so they get an extra Brownie Point because I didn't have to look it up ;)

I explained the problem of the PF4 not fitting under the hood a 69 with a 351w, and they responded to all my questions including my question about milling down the pad. They included the air horn height so they get an extra Brownie Point because I didn't have to look it up ;)

Is this code for millennials with E.D. ?

Bingo! This was the issue! At one point on the trip, I went to start the car and nothing happened. I reached behind the switch and pressed on the wires in the connector, and tried again. It started fine after that. I just installed a new pigtail, and all seems happy! Quite a bit of corrosion on the old wires. 

This guy has several easy to follow Holley tuning video.
 

While the engine is running, the only thing the starter solenoid does is provide a connection point between the main harness, battery, and alternator via the large post on the side.  I don't think the starter solenoid is your problem, unless the connection is loose. 

Remind us, is yours a 69 or 70? Fusible links started on the 70s, but the only one I'm aware of is at the solenoid, and would cut the main power. Once it is gone, power wouldn't be restored without replacing the link. This sounds like a loose connection somewhere.

Wait a minute, isn't that mixing prunes and cherries?