ClubSport

I have installed JBA shorties and they fitted very easily with TCP power rack and z-Bar (original one - the JBA Z Bar did not fit)

At least upgraded valve springs and screw in studs with adjustable rockers. I have this cam from howards , idle 800-850 rpm , 5800-6000 rpm max

Hi You cannot use a deep drop base without having issues with the the throttle linkage - I have tried ...it doesn't work without modifying the linkage. I also tried to use 2-3/4 height KN filter in order to gain some height but still not enough clearance with the hood. A 2 " air filter my clear the hood but I think it will be restrictive. I believe it is doable with a shaker hood but some modding of the system will be needed. Otherwise I am very happy with the system - I re-started my car after 14 months and it has just started as if it was fired one day ago, I think it is the best system in term of driveability and it is very easy to tune.

Hi This is my post from the Edelbrock forum. I cut the hood because I had no scoop at all - Potentially with lowering engine mounts , a dropped filter base and using a thin air filter : the PF4 should even fit with a stock hood. I have chosen to go the scoop because I saw the air intake temperature was very high and with scoop it is equal to the external air temp.

Installed a big spal on my griffin radiator , to get the clearance I switched to a short water pump and specific pulley from CVF

I use a single 16" SPAL heavy duty with a 180 thermostat and an Autocoolguy NB50 PWM controller : very good combo for my 351W - stable temperature 195/200 degrees even with outside air temp of 90-100 degrees

Buy an Aeromotive Stealth 2 Gas tank : very happy with - cost a the end is not really higher

Switched from 3.25 to 3.5 when swapped my 8" to a 9" and the 3.25 was more convenient with my WR Top Loader

I recommend to mount the ECU inside the cabin to protect it from heat - the PF 4 is also bluetooth controlled so the connection with the tablet/phone is much better. High heat and humidity are ones of the major reason for a ECU to fail

Hello I have installed a Pro Flo 4 EFI in my 69 : - The ECU is mounted in place of the glove box - The main engine harness is run through the stock engine harness hole that has been enlarged - The O2 sensor harness is running trough the heater hose hole : heater box still in place but not used

The DCC and AutoCoolGuy modules are acting as PWM regulators : the speed of the fan is variable and the start is soft without big Amp hikes. A relay activated fan is much more simple but I do not want my fan cycling on-off instead of running at the needed speed : less noise and less cooling shock.

Thank you for the link ! Just ordered a NB 50 controller from autocoolguy !

Sent a message to paypal and they returned to me saying that I will be refunded . Do not understand this kind of business : a lot of people give very positive reviews on the product but it is impossible to acquire it Derale module has a lot of negative feedback but I really want a PWM controller - the Flex A Lite is not really PWM.... Do someone has a experience with agood reliable controller that can pull 30-35 Amp at fan stratup ?

Hello I have purchased a DCC FK45 paid via paypal - No news since Dec 12... I have sent an email per week to Brian Baskin but still no answers ? Is his business is over ? Do someone has a contact number as he is not answering emails ? Thank's in advance