Shep69

71 Falcon GTHO PHASE 3.
In 71 fastest 4 door sedan in the world
THESE CARS ARE QUICK.

That’s where I got my drop links. With the Retro belts the end of the belt fitted through the drop link with the help of a hammer and block of wood. 

Here is some diagnostic info from MSD.  I had to use it once.  Backed my car out of the garage.  Then it wouldn't restart to pull it back in.  I had a no spark condition.  In that case it was the magnetic pick-up inside the dist.
https://www.msdperformance.com/support/troubleshooting_techniques/

All,
Sunday night I turned a "I'll go take a drive" whim into a decent little drive.   I realized I hadn't had this old car back to Galveston island since probably the late 1980's.  Took some shots along the way, thought I would share (obviously, filter applied to this first one).  It got too dark, too early this evening, but a few nice shots in there.  Still need to go down there and get some sunset pics.  I hit some rain on the way back tho - now the old girl needs a wipe down.




 

Went to my local coffee and cars with the guys from our car club this morning.
600 cars of all makes , 3 Genuine Shelby's and a couple of 66 coupes all nice .
Parked next to a S code Cougar convertible all original nice car, the Mach One is going better every time i drive it.

Me too, but sometimes on the longer trips it's nice to have a radio. Also like the hands free. Not sure if I will be able to hear it though. Haven't driven it yet. Just used it in the garage.

Hey guys.  It's been about 8 years since I darkened the doorway of this great forum.  Hope everybody is still alive and kicking.
This game called life has unfolded and the 69 302 coupe my son and I built together oh so many moons ago has once again landed in my garage.  My son is 25 now and off living his life and has no place for the stang.  So it sits with me now.  Bwah-ha-ha-haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa.
Anyway, I would like to get back on the horse (pun intended) and start asking some questions.  Just thought I should say "howdy" first before just shamelessly picking your brains.
Hope all is well.
FoothillTom

I am in the process of doing a FiTech install....  

I’ve been running the FiTech unit for a short time. Pretty happy with it and are still dialing it in. 
If you have any exhaust / intake leaks it won’t matter what brand you run your gonna have issues. 
You only have to jump on the sniper or FiTech Facebook pages to see both are having issues . But remember most people only post that are having issues and are looking to get help and you don’t see all the people that are happy with them.  If it wasn’t for company’s like FiTech we would still be paying 3k or more for these tba units. 
I went in tank pump and love it. Cold starts are great. Even after a month sitting idle it starts first time . Way better than the edelbrock carb I was running.
 

So I’ve fitted my insert to my filler neck and filled up the mustang today. I ended up welding my insert in place as it was quite loose and didn’t want to trust the JB weld. 
At first I had some fuel splash back out but I hadn’t inserted the nozzle in far enough. Once I did that it worked great. Awsome improvement. 

I put mine here, pretty well hidden behind the seats.

Big thanks to Mal for the snorkel. I didn’t even need to paint it . 
 

Shep, what kind of engine is it....?  Windsor, Cleveland...?
Before you go to all the trouble to pull the intake off, I would check the rocker studs, as Barnett has suggested.  Also, make sure none of the rocker arms are loose. 
Then, with the valve covers still off, rotate the engine by hand to see if there is anything that seems odd with the movement of the rocker arms and pushrods.  (pull the plugs out, makes it easier).   Do a few rotations by hand cranking it.  During the rotation, when each cylinder's rocker arms are not moving (valves closed, on base circle of cam), stop the rotation and try to spin/rotate the pushrod between your fingers.   If the pushrod spins freely, then you are not at "zero lash", and the rocker arm nut needs to be tightened.  If you get to a pushrod where you can't get the zero lash right, you could have a lifter issue, or your pushrod may not be long enough.   
 
 

I've had a couple of local Mustang owners asking for complete necks with inserts installed, so that was also why I was researching necks and what is available.  
Ideally I'd prefer to offer these as Galvanized or Zinc Plated only, but with all the various mfr's. and re-sellers of these things, it might be hard to actually go this route unless I were to strip and re-plate painted necks myself.   The Goodmark Necks were supposedly Galvanized, but both the '67-68 and  '69 Goodmark neck from same supplier were Painted ... my guess is Goodmark is just a reseller and switched mfr's.   So far the CJP FFP3 and the S-D C9ZZ-9034-A are zinc plated (CF028C '69 neck from same mfr.), as is the '65-66 S-D neck in the prior post (CF028A, again same mfr.), and the '67-68 S-D neck in the post below (FF028B).   The 22 Gallon conversion necks (1970 Tank in 65-66 or 67-68) ... CJP FFP11 and FFP12 are zinc plated.   For some reason these conversion necks are made out of a heavier gauge tubing than the other necks so they require the insert to be crimped down a bit further to slip up the neck.   And as stated 2 posts down, inserts for the Scott Drake '65-66 neck and likely O.E. '65-66 necks need the insert crimped down even further as the tubing used for this neck is 2-1/8" O.D. instead of 2-1/4". 
Complete Necks with Insert Installed Pricing:
'65-66 Painted ... $90.00 + shipping
'65-66 Plated ... $98.00 + shipping
'65-66 w/ 1970 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping
'67-68 Painted ... $97.00 + shipping
'67-68 Plated ... $94.00 + shipping
'67-68 w/ 22 Gal Tank Plated ... $119.00 + shipping 
1969 Painted ... $93.00 + shipping
1969 Plated ... $89.00 + shipping
1970 Painted ... $95.00 + shipping
1970 Plated ... $**.** + shipping (need to find a plated version to sell)
USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... 1 Neck Assembly … $11.00
USPS Shipping Lower 48 States … 2 '65-66 Neck or 2 or 3 '67-68 Neck Assemblies … $14.00 
 
** OR **
2-1/4" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation ... $25.00 NET + shipping
2-1/4" OD x 0.065" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your installation … $27.00 NET + shipping
2-1/8" OD x 0.049" Wall Tubing Insert Kit for your Installation ... $30.00 NET + shipping ('65-66 only) 
Please state what year and neck type so I can send you the correctly crimped insert
USPS Shipping Lower 48 States ... $5.00 for 1-2 Kits or $8.00 for 3-4 kits
 
NOTE that paint gets disturbed on painted necks where insert is staked in place.   I will touch up these areas with silver paint on the outside to prevent corrosion, however color / brightness of my touch up does not match mfr. applied paint (of the 4 painted necks I've bought so far, there are at least 2 different silvers used).   However, with the bracing in the trunk on either side of the neck view of the stake mark locations are not something anyone will notice unless they are looking for it.   For plated necks, the quality of the plating job can vary and since I'm not having them plated or re-plated myself what you receive will be as the mfr. supplied it to me.      
Send me a PM if interested.
Doug
 

ah ha!!  I have never heard that, and THAT explains why I don't have one.  I'll be damned.  Thank you.

Thanks guys, my blanking plate turned up last night. Exactly what I wanted.
Shep69 I will post the horn today.

A couple better pics of the side and front measurements

This is a 69 hood ,someone cut out the pie cut outs ,I am afraid the paint is pretty bad from setting outside ,the black is flat black with no texture . You may be able to get some of the measurements for the black out if the pics are good enough . I have noticed a lot of cars have the corners painted wrong in the front ,way to round ,it was actually a tighter corner as this one is

I once had a bad lifter. It was a hydraulic lifter that had collapsed. I bought one new lifter of same brand and type, swapped the internals of the new one into the old lifter body, and didn't need to break it in again. That lifter is still in the engine. Might be the cheapest fix for you if it's only a lifter.
The way to identify it is to push down on the pushrod. A healthy lifter will bleed out the oil, and offer resistance. The bad one will go straight to the bottom.

My custom exterior vent tube line is done that connects to the pre-bent Classic Tube GT500 Vent Line in the trunk.  
Parts:
1) 168-05-04 Brass 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/4" Male Pipe
1) 207S-04-04 Brass Bulkhead 1/4" FM Pipe Coupling
1) 402-05-04 Brass 5/16" Inverted Flare to 1/4" Male Pipe 90Deg EL
1) 40" Long piece of 5/16" Tubing with inverted Flare Ends (cut about 11" off and beaded the end for hose)
1) 1x1"x1/2" Corner Brace & Small Cushion Loop Clamp.   A 1/4-20 bolt replaces the one gas tank bolt, along with a 1/4" USS Flat washer, thin jam nut & nylon insert lock nut on the corner brace.   Added a 10-24 threaded insert to the one leg of the corner brace and a 10-24x5/8" Hex Bolt, washer & lockwasher holds the clamp to the corner brace. 
3) 5/16" x 2.5" Long Fuel Line and 5 Spring type hose clamps (both ends of pre-bent classic tube line in trunk and the section that hangs down below the valiance). 
1) 168-05-02 5/16" Hose Stem to 1/8" Male Pipe, custom 5/8" OD x 13/32" ID Washer & Gasket, and McMaster 5530K14 Teflon Insert 1/8" Pipe Locknut (at filler neck).
With the passenger exhaust tip off, I had no problem getting this all in there.
 

the best bumper is a rechromed original. all the repos are around 1/2" too long so they stick out beyond the body on both sides and look like crap.

I put NPD front and rear bumpers on my 69 last September. The front has perfect fit and finish, the rear has perfect finish. But I put that crap fit on Ford as any copy of the rear bumper won't fit well without lots of work. Here's part of a long email (I think it shows the length to which NPD goes for quality parts) about the front bumper from Rick Schmidt of NPD:
I had our supplier re-tool the 69-70 front bumpers just a couple years ago. We discovered that their original Ford “benchmark” bumper that they had over there to build the tooling off of had (earlier in its life when it was attached to a Mustang) been “tapped” right on the nose, effectively causing the bumper to “spread” on the rigid mounts, to where it would be a tight-clearance in the center, slowly devolving to too-much clearance at the ends. Probably why the bumper was removed from its original car, and that’s how it wound up in Taiwan as what they THOUGHT was a “good original bumper”, because just looking at it, it looked just fine.
Anyhow, I had to come up with two good/straight original bumpers to send to Taiwan for the new tooling to be made. I had one, but I didn’t want to sacrifice it. I wanted to buy two to send over. So I took very meticulous measurements of the one I had here, and then went hunting. All-Ford Nationals in Carlisle, EVERY used bumper I found, was spread (to some degree) in the same way from being ever-so-lightly-tapped!! When I got home, I called Doug Herr (huge collection of NOS and original/used 69-70 parts), and he said “yeah, I got PLENTY of good used bumpers!!”. I went down there, went through a stack of eight bumpers he had, and they had all been tapped.. No kidding.. Went to my other local NOS/used Ford parts guy (can’t remember name), and out of 10 bumpers he had, I came away with two (thank god) that matched my measurements. And those are what your current repro bumper were tooled from.
Moral of the story?? Beware buying used front bumpers!!! Any one that’s ever had the slightest love-tap, maybe the front wall of the garage, or an accidental parallel parking “oops”, or whatever, well…. They got pulled-off and replaced, and seem to have found their way into the inventories of many unsuspecting Ford parts collectors LOL! Because visually, without measuring, they look perfect when they’re not.
 
 

Putting this on hold for a little while. I have a bent actuator arm in my tilt mechanism, and may need to use a lifeline to West Coast Cougar's rebuild guru to fix it....

Weekend is over but this is what I got done.
Both rear drums rebuilt with all new shoes, drums, springs, and wheel cylinders. Both fronts have old drums off and new rotors, bearings, and 4 piston calipers installed. Removed the old master cylinder The hardest thing I had to do was clean off the old grime on the front knuckles and attach the cross over tube between the front and rear cylinders on the disc calipers.
The CSRP kit is going together really well, the instructions are excellent, and the kit is very complete.


 
 

Phil,
I just used a small zip tie and attached the top of the spring to the brake line next to the retaining clip. It works well and when you apply the brakes the spring just moves to suit and then when you let the park brake off it lifts it up to clear the exhaust.  Stops it resting on the exhaust.