Rsanter

I have installed modern type 3 point retractable belts into the vintage cars several times using the stock mounting points.
 
The belts will get into the way of getting in the back seat a bit but for many people,that does not matter.
 
Bob

One trick is to put a hole next to the factory hole and then you can use one of the fender type clip nuts
 
Bob

I would start with a large vacume resavoir as that will never hurt.
You can rob those off of a cougar or other large ford car and mount them under the fender.
 
Then if that is not good enough you can always add in the pump
 
Bob

My dad and I took the 69 conv to the RENO MCA show and went on the pony drive to Virginia city.
The whole event and all was a lot of fun.
So we just got a copy of the MCA magazine MUSTANG TIMES and the lead photo for the event shows my car on the pony drive. I was the second car in the pack.

My dad and I took the 69 conv to the RENO MCA show and went on the pony drive to Virginia city.
The whole event and all was a lot of fun.
So we just got a copy of the MCA magazine MUSTANG TIMES and the lead photo for the event shows my car on the pony drive. I was the second car in the pack.

My dad and I took the 69 conv to the RENO MCA show and went on the pony drive to Virginia city.
The whole event and all was a lot of fun.
So we just got a copy of the MCA magazine MUSTANG TIMES and the lead photo for the event shows my car on the pony drive. I was the second car in the pack.

First off where do you live? There may be a local member that can help.
 
Second, I hear you are not track racing the car so what is the plan for the car? Drag racing? Cruzing?
Drag racing will put a lot of stress on the front of the car, not as much as road racing will but the launches as well as when the car comes back down will stress the car.
You live in a rural area? How rough are the roads? That can add some stress to the car verses a nice paved freeway.
 
IMO, you at minimim should have the montecarlo bar and export brace.
The next step up will be the TA brace welded inside the tower.
The third will be the stitch welding
 
If you do the stitch welding, you do not need to add all that extra crap metal from the patch/reinforcement kits. Your towers are not broken so tying the layers together by welding will be fine for what you need
 
So, for where the header is hitting.
That is likly,the fault of the header design or something is off with the engine because of the mounts.
I suspect the header
Options. Cut and modify that specific header tube to better clear your car.
Or move the engine back a little. Sounds hard but it is not. Make a spacer that goes between the engine frame mount and the tower and install on the back side. A spacer of 1/4" may be all the is needed to get the clearance you need but only you or someone looking there at the car can determine that
Pbob

Based on where you got it from it is likly correct, however to check it you will have to remove it and measure the piston bore.
 
Be sure that the calipers are on the correct sides so you can bleed all the air out, I have made the mistake before.
 
What is new or verified in your system? Brake hoses? Hard lines? Dist block?
Anything that has some sort of blockage or restriction can be the cause.
 
I'm assuming your pads are good? What kind of pads? I put ceramics on the truck and hated them. I had to push a lot harder and it still felt like it was not going to stop. I swapped them for semi metallics and the brakes went back to like they were originally
 
Bob

When I met CPP at SEMA I was talking with them about installing their steering box into the 69. They said they though it would work but they had not had a car to try it in. I liked the idea that it was an all new box verses a reconditioned modified box that borgeson had. Borgeson also had issues going on with return to center at the time.
I bought the box only at a nice discount and decided I was going to make my own lines and use my exsisting pump. I did not like the idea of the Chevy pump and the way they route the hoses.
The amount I had to dent the tower was about 1/4" and it is not really seen. If you have the wrap around towers then no dice it will be really tough.
CPP now knows what it takes because I documented the process and sent them the information
 
Bob

Clevor
Bost of both worlds
Windsor stroker bottom with the cleaveland heads

Or can the whole works and install a coyote

Bob

Get a piece or wood or dowl. Even a plastic bushing....
OD should match ID of the hole and then just put it around the center drill of the hole saw
It will act as a bushing guide
 
Bob

If you are going to sell or part the car then tell the wife that you are not keeping it, you just haven't sold it yet.....
 
Bob

Look at the racing sources for coil overs. You can often buy some of the pieces used like the sleeves and adjusters and perhaps even the whole assembly.
 
I did some measuring at one time and it seems to me that the behive type springs like shown in the Viking kit are from a mustang II conversion setup so you can look at the hotrod/street rod industry for that stuff
 
If you can do some welding and fabrication it is not hard to made mounting brackets that will mount a coil over to the stock upper arms and to the tower
 
Bob

Last time I was at SEMA I belive it was Jet Hot Coating had a ceramic coating that looked just like cast iron. They had a sample on a tube header and it looked like cast. I would look into that. Those FE engine are impossible to keep decent paint on the exhaust side of the head or the manifolds
 
Bob

I just am not a silver person
The ford grey will be much better
 
Bob

Paint the undercarriage and engine compartment.
Paint all interior surfaces
 
Build and install all suspension and brakes
 
Build engine and trans and install
 
Install all wiring
 
Bob

I just am not a silver person
The ford grey will be much better
 
Bob

Going by my failing memory
 
Those big washers go under the carpet.
Then the carpet, then the belt, the rubber washer and then install the bolt
 
Bob

The pedal support are mostly the same but the manual brake pedal also has nutserts crimped in that will allow you to bolt your master cylinder in. The power support does not have these. In your case you will either need to weld nuts in place on your support or trade for a correct manual support
 
Bob

If you are going all original, factory correct, concourse...bla bla bla....use the plastic rivets.
 
If you car is a driver or a hot rod then bolt the thing on. I used stainless bolts and nylock nuts to hold mine on. When I need to remove it to work on something it's easy and I don't have to buy new plastic rivets again
 
Bob

That car will never be for sale. To us it is mustang number 1, as in the first mustang in the family.
I ended up getting a 66 mustang GT conv for my high school car and still have that one as well.
In all we have 7 mustangs right now. 4 are convertibles.
 
Bob

You do NOT need a kit. This swap is easy
 
Get the power pedal. If you can only find the power pedal for an automatic you have two choices. Cut the pedal pad down or remove the manual pad from your old pedal and weld it to the new pedal.
 
I have several pedals and if you cannot weld you can send me the pad from your old pedal and I will weld it to the power pedal if you buy it from me.
The pedal is not hard to put in, you turn it 90 degrees and put it up then then twist into position. Done it many times.
 
 
Go buy a replacement booster. Or you can buy a new booster. I put the Tuff Stuff booster on my 69. It is the came booster as used on the boss429 cars and gives a little more room in that area. Power brakes work just fine and the booster was around $200 from summit
 
You have to oblong the large round hole and drill a hole below it. Easy to do with the engine will in the car unless you have a 390-428.
You also have to drill out and break out the captured nuts in the pedal support but that too can be done with it in the car
 
You will also need to replace the brakes lines from the prop valve to the MC as the ones you have current may not be long enough
 
You need the vacume port that screws into the back of the intake for the booster vac line
 
Bob

I finally got the 69 conv back from the paint shop yesterday. Did not do a complete paint job but there was some areas that needed work to fix chips or minor damage.
I also wanted to add the scoop and sport mirrors to the car so I had to get those painted as well.
Now I have this weekend to put it back together and clean it up to be ready for the fab ford show
 
Bob

I am planning to be there with the red 69 conv.
The picture to the left is the car at lest years show
 
Bob

Just thought I would show what I was working on yesterday and today.
I wanted a set of rear tie downs for when we have the car on the trailer.
Yes I have the factory tie downs but their location is not ideal when attaching to my trailer so I end up going around the rear axle. I am also adding a factory sway bar to the car.
Now they make shock plates that have tie down loops on them, but they are expensive and I kind of don't like them. So in my typical fashion I went with what was in my head and in my material scrap pile.
 
These plates will go between the factory shock plate and the spring. Gives me the tie down location that I am wanting and the attaching point for the rear sway bar I am adding
 
Bob