JayEstes

The tapered area is between the bearings and of no concern.

Progress!
 
Left Rear rebuilt!


 
Left Front drum off.  This took drilling out the pins from the back, loosening the adjuster, using a pry bar and hammer, a screw driver around the outside, then the pry par and hammer again, and finally I got the drum off the lugs but the shoes were still engaged so I put a screwdriver through a lug hole and hammered the shoes out of the drum.

 
I discovered that my front bearings must be shot because they sound horrible now.  It could have been from removing the drum but they were to be replaced anyway.
 

I've replaced my pink wire with a straight 12V feed (pertronix II) and that fixed my warm-startup issues.  That said, I had to replace my pertronix after ~3 years because it was very intermittent reliability on cold startup.  Got a new one 1.5 years ago and it's been good ever since.  I hope this one lasts longer...

The only point in doing it the way I did  is that once the pink wire is removed it is likely gone forever -- with little or no chance of ever replacing it should anyone ever want to. Most people don't care but it's important to me to preserve as much of the original car as I can, that's the only reason I kept it.  Not concours correct but "period correct" lets say.
Jay, what I did is splice an 18-ga. wire into my OEM harness right behind the ignition switch, where the pink wire originates. Then I snaked it along the original harness in the engine compartment to the distributor, then inside the distributor to the Pertronix unit. The pink wire* still goes to my OEM yellow-top coil. Of course, the extra wire on my coil for my aftermarket tach is also incorrect but if you're clever only a trained eye will spot the extra wire(s) in the bundle.
*The pink wire actually goes to a 3-pin connector where the mating side is green/red.- so it's actually green/red at the coil.
 

steel gears can only used on a factory roller cam . you can also use composite or melonized gears. if it is a billet steel roller you must use bronze, composite or melonized gear . the melonized gear is compatible with all cam materials contrary to what some "expert" magazine writers say . crane makes the best melonized gear i know of but they don't fit all distributor shaft sizes because shaft size varies from mfg to mfg . isnt that nice.

Pics! We need pics fnoble of your new Mustang.

that is not what they say if you call them and ask one of their engineers about it. yes, many get away with using the pink wire but you definitely are far better off bypassing it. its that simple .
 
 

I ran a wire in parallel with the pink wire, so I get 12V to the distributor. I can always remove it if I want. We all know Pertronix claims their system will work on ~6V but it's really designed to work on 12V.  I'm kind of a purist who likes keeping true to stock, but I also like my ignition to work..

Try this one for a 351W.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-30-2895/overview/make/ford
I think the NAPA part number is simply 2895.  You will need to install a steel distributor gear.  The 351W did not get a factory hyd. roller can until 1995, and those are computer controlled.  Crane has a spring and adjustable vacuum advance kit if you want to recurve the mechanical and vacuum advance.

I'd look at Accel points.  Summit racing carries them.  Back in the 1980's Standard Motor Products had an ignition line of parts called "Blue Streak" that was very good. I use to run Blue Streak points, condenser, and ignition coil.  I had good luck with them.  If you want to go to a parts store I would choose NAPA before any others.  To get any stock type parts from a local parts store I always go to my local NAPA store.
Aside from that.  To switch to electronic ignition, I think the least expensive and very reliable solution would be Duraspark.  NPD sells a wiring harness for that conversion and the ignition module and ignition coil.  Or you can get the ignition module and coil from a parts store.  You can get a rebuilt Duraspark distributor from a parts store or Summit Racing.  I'm sure there are members here that can tell you what year Duraspark distributor to get.

Did you bypass the pink ignition wire?

My thoughts on this topic have always been leave the points system in place using good high quality parts, or do a complete conversion to electronic ignition.  I.E., Duraspark setup, aftermarket with distributor and ignition box, or a ready-to-run distributor.  I've never been a fan of the Pertronix stuff that drops in to replace the points.

Which version of Pertronix are you running? 

I recently had the same problem. Pertronix 2 /and coil about the same age and miles. Intermittent no start condition let it sit for a while and the engine would start. Reinstalled points, 1.5 ohm coil, resistor ignition wire and have not had a problem since. In fact the 302 seems to run better.

Yup, it is sometimes best to leave things as designed because "new" is not always better.

For what it's worth. I grew up in a three bay garage owned by my Dad in the 70s. Any time we'd pull a drum off a car, we'd grab an air hose and make this huge black cloud of brake dust, then just walk through it.
My Dad did have two "spots" on his lungs when he was in his late 80s. That's after 50+ years of doing the same thing.
Sure, I'd avoid asbestos but there's quite a few of us that are still around.

When I had my 68 GT w/302 the pivot for the alt was on the bottom of the alt, & the bolt to tighten it was on the top. To tighten the alt belt I would find a open end wrench that would fit the square piece where the bolt threaded into & use that to pull the alt tight. See attached link; https://www.cjponyparts.com/alternator-standard-single-pulley-65-amp-1965-1973/p/ALT1/

Well.  I'm sure there are other ways.  But I got so sick of belt squeak for both the Alternator and PS that I bought this tool.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/35438209
You put it on the inside of the pulleys and use a wrench to have it push out until there is enough tension on the belt.  Tighten your bolts, un-tighten and remove the tool.   Makes it SO easy and nice to do by yourself. 

Doug, I finished that project with good results. Its hanging around here in one of the threads, but I attached the write-up below so you don't have to search.
mustang filler neck7.pdf

Yes I have a selection that I keep in the specialty tool section of the workshop.  Brian

Here's a pic of the one I have. I've used the wrench method too this tool makes it simple.
 
 

+1 on using an open end or adjustable wrench on the square ear where the bolt threads on to.

Not the professional look but works for me.  Find a spot where a wood wedge will fit and drive it in.  I find uses for these wedge's in many situations.  They won't break anything and usually don't leave any marks behind.  Brian

It looks like you need to do the Arning UCA drop while the engine is out.

That's because it IS your cluster.  I found the pic doing a Google image search, and it traces back to a post you made on this forum :-).