TexasEd

The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway. 
 
 

The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway. 
 
 

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
Drivetrain Plan:
Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
I could potentially do all the following
Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
 

Philatelic catalog just came out, going to be releasing some muscle car Fore ever stamps, 5 different cars, but one is a yellow 69 Boss 302. Scheduled to release 8/25/22. 
here’s the link if interested 
https://www.usps.com/stamp-collecting/assets/pdf/usa_philatelic_catalog.pdf

Damn. Sorry to hear this, but you are not alone. Last year in October while leaving Ogallala Nebraska I backed into a parked Yukon damaging my bumper and rear panel. Back circa 1999 with the 69 idling I was adding tranny fluid. Apparently it was started in reverse, and when the trans had enough fluid, it took off into an 8x8 gate post. Damaged the quarter panel, bumper, deck lid,  and rear body panel. 
I feel your pain bro. 

Some things to think about
 
you remove and reinstall:
emblems
bumpers
door handles
etc
 
how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do?
you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there.
you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage

Thanks. The dash install would benefit from no glass as well. 
 
here are some pictures of what I need addressed  I picked up a near perfect original door but hopefully can save the fender.
 

I bought the Classic Auto Air perfect fit kit and it looks pretty close to a factory air system when installed.
https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/complete-ac-systems/1969-ford-mustang-air-conditioning-system/
 

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
Drivetrain Plan:
Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
I could potentially do all the following
Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
 

So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
Drivetrain Plan:
Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
I could potentially do all the following
Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
 

Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.

Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums?
I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc.
Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed.  You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install.  None of those problems switching to manual discs.
So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step.  Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
 
 

Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums?
I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc.
Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed.  You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install.  None of those problems switching to manual discs.
So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step.  Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
 
 

So was able to test wires and ended up being the plug was faulty so I replaced it and all works well. Thank u to all for ur help.

Well fixed perfect.
I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod,
the result is perfect pedal height great brakes.
so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter.
the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost .
he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master.
I will never really know.. but it is done.
I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help
 
thank..,sam
 thanks 

last post.  i shot a little video in car and also from underneath of the rear suspension.
 
 
 

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

Rev 3 of How alternators work
Edit, I finally replaced my old defunct analog scope with a new, much cheaper, much better digital storage oscilloscope. These things have changed dramatically with the advent of digital circuitry. They can store the waveform, take the measurements and display them, do math on them (like taking the mean) and scads of other really neat features.
So I was curious what the wave looked like at our alternator’s neutral stator terminal. Turns out it’s a pretty wicked sawtooth. So now I can dispel any mystery as to how to hook-up a choke heater to the stator. I’ve also added a page on the “Radio Noise Suppression Condenser”.
Edit, this site has been down for "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" many times, so I have added a method to view the schematics and other technical documents: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
 
How Alternators work3.docx

This has been updated to include both the tachometer and non-tach cars.This may be more detail than you need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere.
1. It identifies all the wires coming into the plug for the flex connector, what they do, and how to test them.
2. How the Instrument Voltage Regulator works and how to test it.
3. How the gauges work, several ways to test them, and a detailed method to adjust or calibrate them.
4. How to test each component- all the various lights (there are twelve of them) and even how to fix the ammeter.
In rev5 I have updated page 7 with new information on calibrating the gauges. Some people insist that the resistance of the senders is 73 ohms, while others claim it is 78 ohms.  Regardless it is only a 6% difference and since Ford does not publish their specs, we will probably never know. But, since I'm lazy and didn't feel like changing the pictures on all the other pages, it is stated as being 78 ohms on page 7 and 73 ohms on many other pages.
5. A couple of years have passed. A VMF member provided pictures from his tach dash car so I incorporated those into rev6, and reorganized the document into obvious sections like IVR, Gauges, Chassis Grounds, Non-tach car testing, and Tach car testing. I believe the changes make it easier to diagnose and repair either version of car. In light of the problems plaguing the site with "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" I have added a method to view this document and others on: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing
69-70 instrument gauge cluster6.docx

Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know.
Edit, I did a paper on How Alternators Work- see it here in the How tos.

All working now 

If I remember correctly that screw has to be in there. It completes the ground circuit on the printed film. I guess they didn't have a good way to get from point A to point B with printed circuit so they used the cluster housing to connect the two circuits.

Not sure what the hole is for, but looking at a picture of mine before I disassembled it, looks like the threads of a screw coming thru the hole. I had small round rubber insulators at the base of each gauge terminal post and a thin gray strip of cardboard over the posts and between the metal gauge cluster body and the circuitboard. Pics below..

You should be seeing 1 ohm or less between chassis ground and the battery ground.  Anything more than that, and you'll begin to have problems.  Ask me how I know...
OK...I'll tell you.  My wife is trying to put me 6 feet underground so I can test continuity to ground...I'm trying to convince her that a copper or steel red/pipe stuck in the ground is just as good but she's not having any of that...