69Mach1 M code

Does anyone have a recommendation for a spray type undercoating for the undercarriage? I replaced the torque boxes and floor pans and would like to mimic the original appearance within reason. As we all know the original material is either tar or something that behaves close to it. I've got a few things in mind but was wondering how many have been down this road before.

While we're on the subject of solenoids, I would recommend to anyone who has an older Ford vehicle with the solenoid mounted on the inner fender to occasionally have someone start the vehicle while you observe the solenoid. This should be done with the ambient lighting low enough to visually observe an electrical arc if one is present, preferably at night. I had an older Mustang with the original solenoid still in it, no problems with starting at all. My Dad started the vehicle while I just so happened to be looking into the engine bay and sure enough, a large arc of electrical current ran from the housing to one of the mounting screws. After close examination I could see a small fracture had formed in the housing after about 50 years of age and heat cycling.

Thanks for the feedback. I'm using the 40.25 and 30-9/16 inch dimensions mentioned above as references. The export brace I have is a Drake unit through NPD. I was curious how much impact spreading the towers apart has on the mounting points of the upper and lower control arms. Ultimately only time will tell when I have it aligned. Oddly enough, the last time I had it aligned many years ago (but not many miles), the mechanic told me all three settings were able to be obtained with the adjustments in the middle of each range. Based on the limited discussion on the net about any alignment problems after fitting the export braces, I'm sure I'm just making a mountain out of mole hill and need to focus on the next task at hand; welding the floor pans in later this week.

I know this is an old post but I'm trying to keep as much info in one place for future reference. It looks like my new export brace is going to require the shock towers to be spread apart by about 1 inch to get the holes to line up. I've seen a number of posts and videos using a portable spreader, bumper jack, etc. to spread the towers. Is the best location to load the towers close to the top or should it be closer to the middle of the height, or does it even matter? The reason I'm asking is I wasn't sure if the towers deform or do they pretty much just pivot around the base where they join to the subframe and tilt outward?

Having spent time as a Marine Grunt many moons ago, quotes from Full Metal Jacket have always been near and dear to me. Platoon is another favorite that is full of memorable quotes. Since this is a car forum, I'll pick a quote from the classic Pulp Fiction and clean it up a bit; "What's more chicken than messin' with a man's automobile? I mean, don't mess with another man's vehicle. It's just against the rules".

I attended the Charlotte AutoFair a couple of weeks back and came across a used Edelbrock RPM Performer 2181 with the following measurements: Rear height = 4-7/8 inches (4.875) and Front height = 3-5/8 inches (3.625). It was not in the best condition with several stripped threads so I passed. Thanks for all of your detailed work, Mach1 Driver. Using the Weiand looks more promising now than it did in the beginning. I've got a ways to go before I drop the motor back in so I won't be able to confirm the actual clearances for a while.

Yes, I was referring to the sticker or emblem that was located either on the rear tail light panel or bumper that advertised the dealer. I had the same idea about a license plate frame and sure enough, there was one on eBay. $150 is a little steep though. Looks like I'll be spending some time on CAD to model a replica.

Looking for some details related to a rather unique item. I'm planning on having a dealer sticker made for a Mustang sold by Warren - Anderson Ford in Riverside, CA in the late 60's. The dealership is still there but has been renamed Fritts Ford. It's a serious long shot but, hoping someone on the forum in the CA area knows of a survivor car, has some old photos, etc. that would provide some details on the dealer sticker. I've already contacted the dealership for old records but no luck yet.

Resurrecting this post to help draw a conclusion before dropping the engine back in. As I mentioned above, the Weiand manifold I purchased during the parts scarcity era a wile back may be cutting it close with my non-shaker hood setup. Has anyone else used the Weiand 8023WND with no shaker? What spacer / air cleaner / carb combination did you use? For those that used a different aluminum intake and haven't commented previously, what combination did you use?

I'm looking for comments from those experienced with having purchased and used front end alignment equipment, particularly on our old Mustangs. I'm referring to the equipment for a home garage, not the full boogie set up in a professional garage. What were some of the pros and cons you encountered? Any suggestions on brand / type?

I forgot to mention one other feature that was off 1/2 inch as well. The flat area that makes contact with the flanges on the floor support. I called NPD last week and explained the situation. I asked them to measure the ones they had listed as "imported" and claiming that the stamping dimensions were better than the Spectra panels. NPD is only 30 minutes from my work so I was planning on picking up a better fitting set of panels. They measured the access holes and claimed they were off even more than the panels I had. After stopping by the Barley School of Metal Working for some supplies, I decided to tackle the floor part of the project today. I ended up cutting off 1/2 inch on the flange side and bending it upwards like the originals so the Pebble Beach judges wouldn't notice.

Got the torque box all buttoned up and started fitting the floor pan. I measured 6 inches from the edge of the rocker panel to the centerline of the hole for the seat track. (The camera angle makes it look different than 6 inches). The passenger side is all original and I've been using that for reference dimensions as I reassemble the drivers side. The passenger side measures 5-1/2 inches. Can the new panel be this far off? It's a Spectra Premium panel. Was this panel made on a Friday afternoon or is this expected?

Attached is a photo of the driver's side toe board. The flange on the left, adjacent to the Sharpie, is bend downward towards the torque box. Should this be bent 180 degrees upwards towards the floor side, or just trimmed off?

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here). The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches. I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................