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69Mach1 M code

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69Mach1 M code last won the day on October 13 2022

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  1. Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here). The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.
  2. I measured the Weiand 8023WND intake on the engine and the results are 6 inches in the back and 4-1/2 inches in the front; Carb pad height = 5.25 inches. I double checked the measurements I posted above for the original cast iron intake and stand by them. The p/n is C90E-9425-E with a casting date of 9E15. I purchased the car in the mid-80's from the original owner. The scene where Ken Miles was hammering on the boot to provide clearance for the mandatory spare tire is flashing through my head now ................
  3. Weiand 8023WND but haven't dropped it back into the car yet. Still working on the unibody. May have to use a dropped air cleaner.
  4. I have an original cast iron 4V intake off the engine and measure 3-5/8 in the rear and 2-3/8 in the front near the thermostat.
  5. Wow, nice work, Latoracing. Looks like it even has the inner lip on the I.D. in place. I've got a similar situation as Casgar where I'll have to repair about 1/3 of the flange and POR15 the balance of it.
  6. I'm in need of the same section that you grafted into your original panel. I think if they used body sealer originally instead of the porous foam gaskets that retained moisture, the metal flange would have held up better.
  7. Does anyone know of a source for just the foot well vent panels? They list them as "side panel, cowl, inner". What you get is the panel that the vent assembly mounts to (what I need) as well as the vertical panel that is positioned adjacent to it. The steel is all good in my car except for the six-sided flange around the vent opening. I could fabricate it but considering the time and welding required I figured I'd buy the panel. Current price per side is $142. Yikes!
  8. The lower section of the frame rail was completely rusted to the old floor support and the adjacent material was deeply pitted and pretty thin. I was able to get a pair of calipers on the upper section of the frame rail that's still in good shape. I threw the calipers on the new floor support as well and found part of the problem. It looks like there is a bit of a draft angle from bottom to top due to forming, about 0.100" or so. The inside width at the bottom of the floor support is about the same as the top of the frame rail so I should be good to go. I may remove the draft angle in the press to square things up.
  9. I purchased new floor supports from NPD. I noticed that they have quite a bit of clearance when positioned over the rear of the original front frame rails. I would guess about 1/8th inch side to side. Is this normal? If not, I'm planning on using shims on each side to take up the clearance(?) Has anyone had a similar scenario?
  10. I am replacing the torque boxes, floor supports, and floor pans in the Mach. What is the recommended method to protect the interior surfaces of the frame rails since I will be welding to them? I've used POR15 on other projects and it's held up well but I didn't use it around any welded areas. Can I use POR up to a couple of inches from the areas to be welded and then use Upol Weld #2? This will be my first time using Upol so I'm not sure how well it prevents rust.
  11. I purchased the two piece torque boxes based on the recommendations of web reviews sometimes making it easier to fit into place. The one detail I'm not sure about; after the two panels are welded together as well as to the rocker / floor support / subframe, is the top of the box where the two torque box panels join then welded to the firewall / toe board? I see several spot welds where the toe board is welded to the angled panel of the torque box about half way down but I'm not sure about the top. I haven't started cutting yet but am just planning things out to do it right.
  12. Attached is a photo of a clip that holds the brake line towards the top of the driveshaft tunnel. Are these clips reusable? If so, how are they removed without too much damage?
  13. I'm going to be replacing several structural components of the undercarriage and wanted to check on the proper sequence of replacement based on feedback from guys that have been through this glorious exercise in fortitude. I'll be replacing the torque boxes, toe boards, floor pan, and floor supports. Is this the proper sequence?
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