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69Mach1 M code

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  1. Thanks for the replies. I can rest a little easier. I'll be sure to drain and replace the oil after a few trips around town.
  2. I've completed a rebuild of a 4-speed toploader including gears, blocking rings, bearings, etc. Everything appears to be working correctly when I shift it by hand. My only concern is the blocking rings sticking to the tapers on the gears once it's installed and on the road. Am I just being paranoid from YouTube overload or is there a better method for final checks before buttoning up the cover?
  3. Thanks for the details, Vicfreg, exactly what I was looking for. I needed a sanity check to make sure it would work on my 69 cast iron heads since Weiand also lists the manifold for the GT40 and TFS heads. I usually purchase parts and install them right away but with the current climate of availability, I'm buying parts when they become available but won't have the vehicle back on the road for several months. Now, onto the fun part ..... torque box replacement.
  4. Not much time to work on the Stang lately but finally got back on it this weekend. I noticed that the Weiand only has one bolt in the rear adjacent to the water passage in the head that is blocked off (only the front passage is used just like the cast iron OEM). They cast a boss into the intake but no bolt hole. The next bolt is all the way on the other side of the #4 and #8 intake runner. Is a bead of silicone around the water jacket enough to prevent leakage?
  5. Thanks for all of your feedback, guys. I ended up with the Weiand 8023WND since the Edelbrock ship date was recently moved from 6/18 to 9/8. Forget it. According to Summit they've been on backorder since January. The question I have is this: After researching the Weiand before ordering, I ordered the 8023 since it was listed as idle - 6800 rpm. The 8023WND is listed as 1500 - 6800 rpm. What Speedway shipped me was the 8023WND. Will I have idle or vacuum problems since I'll be using close to a stock cam and OEM power disc brakes? Also, using a straight edge over the top of the OEM rocker covers as a datum, I measured a difference in carb pad height of +0.508" in the front and +1.395" in the rear versus the cast iron manifold. The motor's out and the car stripped down so I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hope I have hood clearance as some of the previous responses have stated. I'm not worthy of a Shaker so just the stock air cleaner. Thanks again for your help .............
  6. I just purchased a new flywheel for my conversion from auto to manual. I'm also planning on switching from the large and heavy OEM starter to a smaller high torque aftermarket style starter. Does anyone have any tricks to measuring the clearances between the starter and flywheel on a 351W? Since I will eventually have the transmission out and manual bell housing installed, is it possible to access from the opening in the bell housing before installing the clutch? The GM set up is easy since the starter is bolted to the block and the bell housing can be removed. I've seen where some use the "paint method" similar to using gear mesh compound when setting up ring & pinions in a differential. I would prefer to get an actual measurement if possible.
  7. I'm looking for an aluminum intake manifold to replace the original cast iron one on my 69. Same street driven lower RPM range as factory. Does anyone have experience with one that uses the original air cleaner assembly without having problems with hood clearance?
  8. I am converting from an FMX auto to a 4-speed toploader in my 69. I've done some research on the linkage and release bearing but still am not sure which combination will work. I plan on using the Z-bar linkage but with a diaphragm style release bearing so I can switch from the original lever clutch to diaphragm design. Can I just switch to the diaphragm release bearing and clutch? Does the stock clutch fork work?
  9. Thanks for the feedback. I just started removing the interior but once I trial fit the tranny in place I'll report back with some photos.
  10. Thanks for the valuable information. It will certainly save me a headache or two. Do you remember which shift lever was used, angled or straight? Or does it matter? I'm planning on replacing the auto center console insert with the manual insert and be done with it.
  11. I have a 4-speed toploader with a Hurst Super Shifter that will be installed into my 69 Mach 1. It is missing the shift lever. Hurst lists p/n 5387238 which is straight with no offset. I would like to install a lever that is angled back, more like a traditional OEM style lever. Does anyone have any experience with utilizing a lever that is angled back with the Super Shifter in a Mach? Perhaps a different brand, etc.
  12. Thanks RPM. I am planning on doing my own alignment since it seems that fewer shops have the experience with these older cars. I'll start with the specs you've listed above.
  13. Thanks for the feedback, guys. I am still a few weeks away from starting the tear down but am planning ahead to minimize surprises.
  14. I am planning on performing the Shelby drop in my 69 Mach. I have the stock slotted chrome rims. Will the movement of the upper control arm create a clearance issue with the rims or other components? Is a stock upper ball joint o.k. to use or is a heavy duty unit required?
  15. I am planning on converting my 69 Mach from the FMX to a 4-speed Toploader. It has a Hurst shifter. Will I need to modify the opening in the console or can I just add a rubber boot?
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