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69Mach1 M code

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  1. Attached is a photo of a clip that holds the brake line towards the top of the driveshaft tunnel. Are these clips reusable? If so, how are they removed without too much damage?
  2. I'm going to be replacing several structural components of the undercarriage and wanted to check on the proper sequence of replacement based on feedback from guys that have been through this glorious exercise in fortitude. I'll be replacing the torque boxes, toe boards, floor pan, and floor supports. Is this the proper sequence?
  3. I've been using Upol Weld #2 weld through primer from a spray can for some patch panels. There are a few hard-to-reach spots where the can won't reach so I'd like to try a brush on weld through primer. It doesn't look like Upol makes a brush on primer. The reviews for SEM don't appear favorable. Does anyone have a recommendation for a brush on weld through primer that they've used and like?
  4. I need to do some cleaning up in the area where the round flange extends upward from the lower cowl (inlet for heater box). The original sealant that was spread around the flange and to the far right side edge of the cowl is flaking off, and the rust is deep but not through the entire thickness. I am planning on removing the flange so I can reach in from the passenger footwell. It appears that the flange has a body caulking type sealer between it and the lower cowl. Was there any mechanical means of securing the two together such as a spot weld? I don't see anything except the sealer from underneath but wanted to check with those that have had a better view after removing the top cowl panel (which I don't want to do since the windshield will remain installed).
  5. I'm getting ready to replace torque boxes, floor supports, etc. I only need to replace a couple of small sections on the subframes so I didn't purchase new ones. Can anyone tell me what gauge metal the subframes are so I can purchase a small panel to cut up? I measure 0.080 inches (14 gauge) for the new floor supports but they appear thicker than the subframes.
  6. Thanks for the suggestions. I may be able to salvage mine and live with a little patina. I just read the thread of Ridgerunner making his original repro's. Nice work. Good to know they're available.
  7. The moonskin material that covers the C-pillar panels in the '69 has lost it's adherence to the cardboard backing panels in isolated spots. The moonskin material appears to just be regular headliner material. I could purchase a headliner adhesive such as Weld-On 1829 but was looking for something more readily available. Has anyone tried an adhesive that does not "stain through" to the surface? Also, has anyone purchased C-pillar panels that they are satisfied with? I see some of the reviews on NPD have been mixed. Doesn't look like they extend the moonskin enough to tuck under the rear glass weather striping.
  8. Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread, and for taking the time for the photos and measurements. It was very informative and hopefully will help someone in the same situation in the future. I ended up ordering the installation kit # 3735587. The shifter lined up with the console installed.
  9. I've referred to Explorer's as Exploder's since the Firestone fiasco. Rather fitting.
  10. @Mike65 - Do you remember if the yoke on the pinion shaft from the differential is a 1310 size joint or a larger 1330? The yokes on my original driveshaft from the 351 are 1310's.
  11. Has anyone that went the route of use an aluminum Exploder driveshaft had any problems with clearance in the floor tunnel? The aluminum driveshaft I obtained from a friend is diameter 3.465 inches and the stock steel 351W driveshaft I have is diameter 2.76 inches.
  12. I am swapping out an FMX with a 4-speed toploader. Can anyone tell me the proper amount of engagement between the output shaft splines and the yoke splines? I need to measure the driveshaft length to have it cut and balanced. The toploader did not come with a yoke so I'm starting from scratch.
  13. Thanks for your very detailed explanation, Doug. I'll take the dive into the shallow end of the pool this weekend and order the parts. I should have it installed the following weekend to report back.
  14. Great pics. So it looks like the two mounting bolts that run through the shifter assembly, would actually be tilted, with the bottom one angled rearward, correct? The top mounting bolt would be slightly forward of the two bosses I have to drill and tap? Where is it in relation to the back edge of the opening in the floorboard? The shifter I have looks like the one that RPM posted above. It has a "Z" shape at the bottom before the assembly. What linkage did you use? Is it the original Ford or Hurst linkage? I'm getting close. I can almost smell the unburnt hydrocarbons now ..........
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