TexasEd

I got my old exhaust manifolds off. They were leaking and I thought the passenger side was cracked until I got them off. Turns out that the collector gasket was bad. No matter. Going to install the DBA shorties. 

It is correct ,all the bubbles is probably where it has lifted and may have rust started under them . Scrap it back and wire wheel the rust away but dont heat up the metal or it will warp ,you could also use a flap wheel on a die grinder . Primer and spray new sound deadner over the area 

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
 
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

Fitment was great.  I had to pass the drivers side up from under the car because of the brake booster being in the way and you have to tighten spark plugs 7&8 with a wrench attached to the spark plug socket but other than that it was easy.
 


 

I know its not the same car ( in this project report forum ) but.. I own it also..
down to only 4 mustangs.. Sold my wife's 2012
A little E-85 test last Friday night at HRP

video-1616810442.mp4

looks great.
i hate masking.  I'm also not to worried about overspray in the cabin area (except trunk and dash).  i spent several house masking when prepping to paint the cage, just to prevent having to sand overspray from the other surfaces when it's time to final sand those (and prevent dirt from getting blown out from goofy places like the roof area).  I spent most of the evening tuesday night masking the cage to prevent it from getting any oversprays....

 

 

I also bought the Mustang Project LED Light Kit but in the new Aqua color. 
https://www.mustangproject.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=7aba057b-3612-4e2a-a00f-41403e1f5d86
I installed them a couple of months ago but I left all the original diffusers in place. I also did the high beam and turn signal lights. They made a huge improvement. I can now read my gauges without my glasses. They're not so bright that the are obviously aftermarket but they're just bright enough that they probably look like they did they day the car was purchased. They are also dimmable.
For some reason I forgot to take pictures and unfortunately the car is out of pocket at the moment. Once I get back to it I'll take a couple and post them up.
Overall, I highly recommend spending the $50.00
 

Well, here’s the one I bought for 400

I have for a sale a full set of Ford wheel well/fender lip moldings. Ford wrapping is pretty much gone. Moldings have never been installed. Sold the car and no longer need them. They are for a 69 Fastback. Asking $150.00 plus shipping.

New parts day. 

Several years ago, bought a 69 Grande parts car for 500. It was a total rust bucket, but cleared 4000 on selling the part out I didn’t want, while still keeping, fenders, buckets, doors, compete tilt wheel column, and majority of all the little nick knacks to put 2 cars together. Then traded the shell and title for the rear 70 tail end. 

I had a customer just 2 weeks ago that fried a wire at the starter solenoid.  What was unusual was that it was the I (Ignition) line, typically brown or red/green.  First time I heard of this problem in 13 years of working on harnesses.  Scratched my head a bit, and came up with a reason, but I wasn't too happy with the explanation.  This line burned half-way through the harness.
Yesterday, another customer called me with the identical problem!  After some back and forth, he confirmed that it was the I line that got fried.  This one got fried all the way to the connector to the underdash harness.  What is further unusual, is that both were 1967's (Yes, this is a 69/70 forum but hold that thought...)
Both customers had starting problems: #1 ran out of gas, and cranked the car excessively trying to get it to start.  #2 cranked the car, but the starter solenoid stuck (welded itself inside the solenoid).  Hmmm...a clue here!  Both cases had the wire insulation burn as though it was a short.  But...that line goes to the coil, so there shouldn't be a short when one is sending 12V to the coil.  But there is...the coil is only 1.5 to 0.6 ohms (depending upon model) and from there it goes to the points.  Now then, the points are closed (grounded) 7/8ths of the time, and 1/8th of the time they open allowing high voltage to leak from the coil to the spark plugs.  The majority of the time, the points act as a ground.  Aha!  Sending 12V through a 1.5 ohm system yields 8 amps of current through an 18 gauge wire, enough to cause the wire to get hot and insulation to burn off. 
So there you have it...the reason why one is told not to excessively crank the starter is not related to the starter or the battery, but to prevent excessive current from passing through a thin wire for longer than a couple of seconds.  This is also the reason why aftermarket ignition systems want to use 14 or lower gauge wires from the I post to their system.  And this has nothing to do with the year Mustang: they all will exhibit this problem if the starter sticks or you crank the car excessively at one time.
I bet you didn't know this, eh?

Circa 1995 I was driving across town while working when I saw a boat for sale on the side of the road in front of a business. What caught my eye was it had a Mustang shaker air cleaner on it. What the heck? I flipped around and went inside the business to ask about it. The guys eyes lit up when I asked about the boat for sale, but he came down when I asked if he'd sell just the air cleaner. He agreed to sell the shaker, and I was leery when I asked him what he wanted for it. Twenty-five bucks. Holy crap, I couldn't pay him fast enough. $25 in1995 is $44 today, so...
So now I need a shaker hood right? Call my buddy who owned a wrecking yard and asked him to try and find a 69 shaker hood for me. He calls back the next day and said they found one down in LA. Ok, how much will it cost me? Twenty-five bucks. True stories.

A few years ago i had a guy drive up and ask me if i wanted an old mustang that a renter left on his property when he moved out ,didnt have to ask me twice ,i hitched up the trailer a headed over to his place ,what was an old mustang turned out to be a 1969 Mach1 with no wheels and setting on pallets . Not wanting to get to exited i took a quick glance at the vin ...hmm O code ? Loaded it up and got home to check that vin again to see that it was a Q code ,even better it was a gulf stream aqua white deluxe interior with fold down and AC.  Motor and tranny was missing and about a week later i traded it for a ski boat that just had a new 429 cj and built jet put in it ,had a whole lot of fun with that boat ! 

Bought a pair of these custom 2-1/2" Inlet Tips a few months ago from CJP and was just blown away with how they opened them up inside for maximum flow.
Twin tips are externally the same, rolled edge is a little tighter though giving a bit more opening: Stock approx. 1.50" x 2.14" vs. 1.65" x 2.33" oval area each tip.
My exhaust is stock late 80's repro (transverse muffler) but the larger 2-1/4" 428 version instead of the 2" that should be behind a 351W.   In order to fit the stock tips on the tails that came in this exhaust system I had to shorten them a bit as well as reduce the end dia. to slip into the tiny 1-3/4" inlets on the stock tips … in hindsight, I'm guessing tails were for GT500.   This always bugged me but assumed at the time that the tips were the same for all engines so this is how it would have been on a Big Block.     
Come to find out more recently that 428 Mach 1's & GT's with this 2-1/4" exhaust came with special tails with less restrictive tips welded on the tails instead of the separate tips used on 390 & 351's.   These unique tails are now being reproduced by Scott Fuller … but for the concourse crowd … so not cheap.
So, since I had already cut & re-welded my tails to fit the stock tips way back when, I just ordered (2) 2-1/4" ID x 2-1/2" OD x 6" long aluminized 16Ga. adapters.   I'll cut forward of my current welds and slip these adapters on, adjust to desired length, then weld these new adapters on.   Stock tails are 16Ga. aluminized steel too, so I was happy to find these adapters made out of the same gauge tube.
Scott Drake makes similar tips for 2-1/4" tails that sell for quite a bit less than these 2-1/2" versions, but from the inlets back look to be similarly restrictive as the stock ones so not worth the cost & effort for minimal improvement.
Both tails slipped out of the muffler without any issues, so I'm just waiting for the adapters & 2.5" clamps to arrive from Summit next week.
Doug     

Got the parts earlier this week and finished up the project today … turned out really nice with no clearance issues anywhere.
Was thinking the rolled lips were going to still be the smallest restriction, but with a little math I found this is NOT TRUE … the 2-1/4" exhaust system tubing I.D. is actually less area than the twin tips.
2-1/4" 0.065" Wall Tubing = 3.528 sq-in area each
Twin Tips are 1.895" I.D. = 2.82 sq-in area each x 2 = 5.64
Rolled Slant Cut Oval = 3.019 sq-in area each x 2 =6.038
The 1-3/4" O.D. crimped down tail ends I had before with the OE style tips = 1.986 sq-in area
vs. the 3.528 sq-in of 2-1/4" tubing is a 77.6% increase in area which is a huge improvement.
Using these tips on a 2-1/2" System would not be a restriction either as this with 0.065" Wall tubing would be 4.41 sq-in area which is also smaller than the twin tips.
 

I don't think I ever posted in this thread.
Wheels and Tires:
Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear
Suspension Mods Sourced from Opentrackerracing :
1" UCA drop, 560 1" drop coil springs, 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators, 1 1/8" front sway bar kit, Roller spring perches, Standard Upper arms, Standard Lower arms, New Strut rod bushings, KYB Front shocks, Grab-A-Track rear shocks, 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit

I don't think I ever posted in this thread.
Wheels and Tires:
Coker Magnum 500 15x7 front, 15x8 rear
Cooper Cobra P235/60 R15 in front, P245/60 R15 in rear
Suspension Mods Sourced from Opentrackerracing :
1" UCA drop, 560 1" drop coil springs, 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators, 1 1/8" front sway bar kit, Roller spring perches, Standard Upper arms, Standard Lower arms, New Strut rod bushings, KYB Front shocks, Grab-A-Track rear shocks, 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit

Boy was he surprised, I opened the shop door for him and his jaw dropped. First question he had was about the tie rod ends, told him that was fixed thurs night and was the bait. Then popped the hood, hooked up the battery and said “take her for a spin”. Thank he crapped in his pants on that one since he was clueless on me picking up the motor 3 weeks ago. 
He fired her up and was gone for about 20 min, started getting a little worried since the front end needs aligned and has uncapped headers and I hadn’t driven it yet. 
He pulled back in grinning from ear to ear. 
I’m going to finish a couple of little things, fix the header leak, exhaust run, and front end aligned. He’ll need that much time to clean his shop up to park it in. 
 

Brakes are working good now after a little adjusting!! Thanks for the link in ilex. First time back on the road in 30 years. Brother is coming out tomorrow am, to what he thinks is another costly issue I need to show him, boy will he be surprised when I tell him to start her up and take her for a drive.
3 years worth of labor done with love and gratitude for my older brother, a little pay back for all he has done for me over the years.
 

So far so good with the new radiator.  I would endorse both the radiator and the clutch fan.  Just note that the shroud takes some trimming to fit.  Drove it on a warm 70 degree day an hour to an air show/car show and temps were steady.  I think I could get it cooler with a lower temp thermostat but my car seems to like what I have now.  I should get an infrared thermometer to see what temp I am really running.
 

In progress

a couple of updates if anyone is still out there....
restored a 78 honda cb550 four.  was simply a means of getting a little time away from the falcon....
 




 













 

Stock suspension, PDB/Drums rear, Shelby/Arning 1" drop, stock 14x6 wheels w/4.25" BS, 215/70/14.  Brian

agreed, I tried to base my wheel setup on this chart when I started to pick out wheels and tire combos, but soo many ppl had different set ups, its hard to collect that much data as every year a new kit would appear. 
Im happy with my setup 18x9/10 245/40 275/40 with SOT Front Coil Overs and Grab-A-Track 4.5 Mid Eye leafs with Vintage Venom's brake kit: