firewall insulation

[Raven R code 281]

Thinking of going with this.

http://www.amazon.com/CJ-Pony-Parts-INSULATION-1969-1970/dp/B00BCN5M52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410710867&sr=8-1&keywords=1969+mustang+firewall+insulation

 

My concern is engine heat from the big block block. When I had it on the road last, I remember the heat coming thru the holes.....nice on cool mornings but not on hot days. Should i add dynamat or lizard skin underneath? I'm not building a trailer queen but want to remain as correct as possible in this rebuild. I should add...my original firewall insulation is deteriorating and may be failing (mice nest and such). Maybe just replacing would be sufficient? Would adding a little dynamat just behind the original style insulation help (making it non visible too).

 

Dave

Edited September 14, 2014 by Raven R code

[Brian Conway 264]

If you have the interior firewall exposed so that you can get some added, or an up graded/improved, insulating pad on there go for it. The more insulation/sound mat type stuff you can get on there the better. The original pad is simply not enough of either. Brian

[LiLMike 42]

I used dynamat on the interrior firewall and then bough the exact pad you listed. I had trouble fitting it in there with the plastic push connectors used to hold it in place. I ended up cutting it at the steering column and just using the right side of the pad.

[jagbucket 10]

I just installed this kit as usual it is not oem thickness and it is not the same if you have a mach 1, only covers the vertical portion of the firewall not up to the windshield as original. It did fit the area it was intended for i had to add some stick on product for oem area coverage

[danno 128]

I also used the material that is used to insulate industrial forced air heating and cooling ducts. I ran it down under the carpet underlayment and floor, as more insulation is better.

[Rsanter 152]

I used dinamat on my firewall and then used the flat non formed firewall insulation that you showed.

It's complete crap that doesn't fit right and made it hard to install the heater box and such.

Either make the original work, buy a good used one, or pop the money for the more expensive correctly formed repo. I regret buying that POS

 

If you have it all apart I would for sure go with something on the firewall like dynamat before the insulation goes back on

 

Bob

[stangs-R-me 121]

I bought the correct "molded" one for my car in 2011 and think it was worth it.

 

It is from Quiet Ride (# MUST6970-CM1) ... I had it on order with CJP for 7 weeks before I started looking for it IN STOCK somewhere. Found it at Mustangs Unlimited (paid $176, looks like it is $150 now @ CJP or $160 at MU). Anyway, it is a high quality part ... better than the dissintigrating OEM one I took out ... and fit nicely. All the needed holes were there and I was able to re-use all my original hardware.

 

My car is a factory A/C car, so it had the deluxe molded firewall pad from the factory. I believe ALL Mach 1's & Grande's (including non-A/C) got this deluxe firewall pad too.

 

Doug

[MikeStang 247]

I lizard skinned the whole inside and outside then Dynamatted over that lol.

The dynamat lays right over the holes and seals em up nice

[stangnet33 88]

Anyone ever try Cool It by Thermo Tec ? They claim over 90% of blocking radiant heat. Looks like it may be a better alternative than dynamat or fat mat when concerned about heat. http://www.thermotec.com/products/categories.html

[Dave R. 85]

Dynamat is primarily a sound insulating pad. They (Dynamic Control) also make a heat insulator material called Dynaliner. The Dynamat does have some heat insulating property but is a sound insulator by design. The 2 products can be used, one on top of the other, for maximum benefit. Dave R.

[Wycked69 20]

My $.02

We used the RAMM mat. Its much like Dyna mat but less expensive. I bought a firewall pad from CJP and did not like it. Bought the one from NPD and it was sooooooooooo much better quality. No comparison

[Steve's 69 10]

Thinking of going with this.

http://www.amazon.com/CJ-Pony-Parts-INSULATION-1969-1970/dp/B00BCN5M52/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410710867&sr=8-1&keywords=1969+mustang+firewall+insulation

 

My concern is engine heat from the big block block. When I had it on the road last, I remember the heat coming thru the holes.....nice on cool mornings but not on hot days. Should i add dynamat or lizard skin underneath? I'm not building a trailer queen but want to remain as correct as possible in this rebuild. I should add...my original firewall insulation is deteriorating and may be failing (mice nest and such). Maybe just replacing would be sufficient? Would adding a little dynamat just behind the original style insulation help (making it non visible too).

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave, I'm in the same situation in looking for heat insulating material for my 69. What was your solution to your heat coming from firewall? Did you use thermo tec or some other brand? Did you use dynamat or did you use the reproduction insulation? Please let us know how it turned out.

 

Thank you

 

Steve

[Guillaume69 150]

I used a repro of the original one, nothing really fancy, ordered from MU. I was pleased with the overall quality (thickness, look, cut). It does take a little massaging to put on properly. I didn't use anything else for firewall insulation and haven't experienced any heat issues so far.

 

G

 

[barnett468 418]

if you are sensitive to chemicals or smells, you do not want to use any of the adhesive backed butyl products because they will smell a little when your engine heats your floor and the mat to 200 degrees.

 

if you are not sensitive than dynamat extreme is the best . . you can uu also buy butyl in a roll from any hardwate store

 

if you are sensitive, you can buy 1/8" thick ceramic cloth . . eclklers sells kits fir vettes cheap but you have to figure out how to adhere it . . contact glue may work if you donlyt mind glue on your firewall.

 

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-interior-heat-barrier-kit-front-1956-1962.html

 

http://www.ceramicfiber.net/ceramicfibercloth.htm

.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I run the original style repro firewall insulation and make certain any holes are plugged. Way back in high school my older brother had a 69 Mach 1. Back then it still had the original firewall insulation. Back then and now I haven't experienced any heat through the firewall. I never new that was an issue with these cars.

 

I don't like any of the aftermarket insulations that are glued in place. You never know what mess they might leave behind when removed.

Edited January 3, 2015 by 1969_Mach1