jagbucket

If you want to repair a common practice is to drill each end of a crack a then weld, this makes sure the ends of the crack are wrapped to stop growing

went through the same issues with the stainless you need all new fittings on both ends the original w cylinders are seated for the original steel tubes and now you are trying to force new groves in the wheel cylinders to fit the new ss lines. the nuts are not strong enough to remark the seats to fit the new ss lines they will strip first . new parts all the way around should work. at lest i hope so as i have yet to pressurize my new system. no leaks yet but not entirely bled either

old post but Lee at fastbackstack llc is a good resource for parts and info of all the vendors around lee is the most generous with his info Knows mustangs in and out not just a salesman

you are lucky that your switch looks like it will pull out easily mine had to be chiseled out 1/4" at a time. your meter is showing continuity are you pressing the rim in the pics ? 1. is open .000 is contact so .001 is resistance but still contact . i always have to play with open and closed contact to reaffirm what values im looking for no expert here with meters.

Your first set of pics looks like u tested the harness not the wheel switch. Test for continuity between the switch leads with the switch disconnected. From your light test the switch is the most likely problem but with it connected to the harness the short could be anywhere . observe the difference when the rim is squeezed

i understood he was on a test stand and not using the original harness

if you need spacers you have the wrong offset wheels. spacers increase the load on your studs and the wheels should also fit tight to the center hub so as to be hub centered not stud centered

If you have a new motor you should start with new electrical also . or perhaps you have bought new and have a defective new part. on your test stand do you have a resistance wire to the coil if not and you left the key on the points could be burnt . i have seen coils heat up and fail from this but experts say the resistance wire is for the points not the coil . a separate ceramic ballast resister can be installed . On the one spark you mentioned i would replace the condenser first , also the cheapest component.

review the installation of the points if not installed correctly the points will be grounded. you should see a spark when you open them from closed with the key on

check the float?

All of the above and as mentioned the bolt is splined to keep it locked into the arm your replacement should also be. A regular bolt could allow movement down the road

I did some looking again and unlike a 67 which has a switch that looks like a door switch i think the interrupt is part of the relay in the tilt bracket and the wire is off the ignition switch that has a male female bullet plug red/blue 32 a few inches from the key switch, the diagram calls this a starter safety switch which sent me looking for a separate switch. A non tilt car these are just connected with tilt it is inserted here. If this is correct it still does not answer the brown, yellow/black question