ronandmelady

http://midlifeharness.com/

the fuse block and green piece on the drivers side firewall plugs together. If u remove the bolt in the center and release a couple of clips on the green piece it will unplug. The larger pin on mine was burned and had to replace with new pins. I have also found problems where the wires are riveted to the conductor bars on the fuse block.   

On my 70, I ended up adding cup holders  to my stock console using some magnets and cup holders that were purchased on Amazon.   I have the TMI console for my 66, and it is good, but not great. 

Update on 70 Coupe Project:  OK...so I've owned the car for a year now and you already read about the electrical issues early on.  Over spring and summer, I resolved a terrible overheating problem that in the end I attributed to just a plain old radiator and a collapsing lower radiator hose and got it purring like a kitten with a terrible breaking up / weak spark issue.  I tried to resolve the dreaded leaking FMX transmission, but think it's still leaking from pan.  And finally, last weekend I replaced the 52 yr old 85 lb spring rate rear leaf springs with Detroit Eaton 70 Competition Suspension 138 lb spring rate springs and dual exhaust shackles and got on my old school Keystone Klassic wheels with BFG Radial T/As.  Love the rear stance and the ride is great.  Think I'm going to cut 1/4 to 1/2 coil out of new front springs to bring it down 1/2 to 1 inch.  Very happy with progress and soon moving on to stripping off the original ugly green paint.  Going with a bright pearl white or white metallic.  And also new carpet, front seat covers, and dash pad.  Having a great time working on an old mustang again.  Cheers to you all until next update.  

Update on 70 Coupe Project:  OK...so I've owned the car for a year now and you already read about the electrical issues early on.  Over spring and summer, I resolved a terrible overheating problem that in the end I attributed to just a plain old radiator and a collapsing lower radiator hose and got it purring like a kitten with a terrible breaking up / weak spark issue.  I tried to resolve the dreaded leaking FMX transmission, but think it's still leaking from pan.  And finally, last weekend I replaced the 52 yr old 85 lb spring rate rear leaf springs with Detroit Eaton 70 Competition Suspension 138 lb spring rate springs and dual exhaust shackles and got on my old school Keystone Klassic wheels with BFG Radial T/As.  Love the rear stance and the ride is great.  Think I'm going to cut 1/4 to 1/2 coil out of new front springs to bring it down 1/2 to 1 inch.  Very happy with progress and soon moving on to stripping off the original ugly green paint.  Going with a bright pearl white or white metallic.  And also new carpet, front seat covers, and dash pad.  Having a great time working on an old mustang again.  Cheers to you all until next update.  

nice, another coupe coming back to life! show us pictures! I attached a pic of mine, you can mods the coupe in different ways. from stock, old school muscle or the very popular protouring look.
Ideally,  I would like to have a fun street cruiser. I like manual transmissions,  but would settle for an automatic. I'd love to have a 351, but would settle for a 302. I live in fayetteville Arkansas, in the ozarks, so there are a lot of hills here, torque is king..  I will probably end up running holley sniper efi and timing control, but would settle for a carb, as I am familiar with them.  Id like to run on regular gas, 87 would be awesome, but any pump gas is good. 
any stock roller 302/351w with AOD would be best cruiser and to run 87 pump gas if your worried about the gas price.
I'd like 400+ hp/torque.  Enough to show the college kids that old muscle is the best muscle.
I recommend going the stroker route, 302 - 331/347 or 351w 393/408/427, on my old 393 stroker, I was pushing 365 rwhp/400rwtq after a dyno tune. Great street manners and idle however I had cheap heads which caused valve guides/rockers to fail, so Im now my old 393w is getting converted to a 408w with more power and have reliable street manners to run on pump 91 gas.
I would like to update the suspension for a daily driver on curvy back roads.
If you have some cash to burn, start with suspension/brakes/subframe connectors;
front suspension: you have tons of options to go with, but everyone here goes with open tracker or if you want to really upgrade, go with street or track coil over conversion,  I have their front sport coilover kit installed in my coupe and its awesome to drive.
Rear Suspension: I have 4.5 mid eye leafs, but may go with a rear coil over set up later...
Transmission - I dont really want to spend big money on tko And I feel like a t5 is just too small. So, I'll probably find a toploader. I'll run close to stock height tires(25-27 inches), but make them a little fat, for a more aggressive look.  
I have a TKO600, its a good transmission but still notchy when shifting. The new TKX resolves this as it uses some t56 parts. 
T5z would be fine, but Tq capacity is 330-400hp with a good clutch and if you are not using sticky tires. if you can find a cheap top loader, go that route, otherwise TKX is what I would go with, but fyi, there is a huge backlog to get these.

I think it rides great with 15".  My suspension is very stiff and if I had 17" wheels I don't think I would like the extra jolt of manhole covers or other road imperfections.

That Boss is off the hook!

nice progress.. Did a 70 a while back and had trouble with grounds on the turn signals..wiring is always fun

Update on electrical progress.  After some work repairing 2 pins in firewall harness plug I got headlights last weekend.  Today with help from a few people online, I now have all park and marker lights.  Emergency flashers and brake lights work.  Turn signals work when manually moving lever, but not on own.  Swapped out relay...maybe got a bad one.  Progress!

Thank you very much Grabber70Mach.  At least headlights working.  The nightmare has begun on park/marker/turn signals, but we will figure that out too.
 

I did a write-up on the 70 turn signals, but I'll be darned if I can find it on here. In case you aren't aware I will describe their odd but normal operation. The side marker lights flash in sync with the turn signals when the headlights are off, but when the headlights (or parking lights) are on, the markers flash alternately with the turn signals. I can repost how this works if you are interested.

Nice looking stable you've got.   Welcome to my forum and congrats on getting it figured out. 

Update on electrical progress:  I pulled the firewall plug and got my bearings correct of the pins this time.  I pushed/pulled the burnt pin further out of plug and cleaned up.  Found that wire pulled out of plug was for park/marker lights and got it back where belongs.  Electric lubed all pins and put back together.  I now have high/low beam lights.  Hurray! Still no turn signals and only right front drive/marker lights.  That will be next.  Have harness coming soon to try that route.  Progress!

08 GT500 that I've KR cloned.  12k miles, FP TVS swapped, FR twin 65 TB, 3:73 gears.  My rocket ship.     

I live in Ogden, UT area.  I'm a mustang guy...this coupe make 4 I currently own.  The coupe is to have a 70 driver, my pride and joy is a pristine 70 BOSS 302.  Here are my 70s.  Thank you for the welcome.

Great news. Now do a smokey burnout in that B2 for us. And don't forget to post a pic for us :)

Update on electrical progress:  I pulled the firewall plug and got my bearings correct of the pins this time.  I pushed/pulled the burnt pin further out of plug and cleaned up.  Found that wire pulled out of plug was for park/marker lights and got it back where belongs.  Electric lubed all pins and put back together.  I now have high/low beam lights.  Hurray! Still no turn signals and only right front drive/marker lights.  That will be next.  Have harness coming soon to try that route.  Progress!

Persistence and patience pays off!!

Update on electrical progress:  I pulled the firewall plug and got my bearings correct of the pins this time.  I pushed/pulled the burnt pin further out of plug and cleaned up.  Found that wire pulled out of plug was for park/marker lights and got it back where belongs.  Electric lubed all pins and put back together.  I now have high/low beam lights.  Hurray! Still no turn signals and only right front drive/marker lights.  That will be next.  Have harness coming soon to try that route.  Progress!

Update on electrical progress:  I pulled the firewall plug and got my bearings correct of the pins this time.  I pushed/pulled the burnt pin further out of plug and cleaned up.  Found that wire pulled out of plug was for park/marker lights and got it back where belongs.  Electric lubed all pins and put back together.  I now have high/low beam lights.  Hurray! Still no turn signals and only right front drive/marker lights.  That will be next.  Have harness coming soon to try that route.  Progress!

I just found out yesterday they came out with the New TKX transmission same as the TKO600 but slimmer tighter case made just for the Classic Muscle Cars/ Hot Rods. I notice they have several choices for our Fords. Nice!
 

I agree one needs to be careful with what is purchased at the local auto parts store. As long as you pay attention to the parts being ordered, filtering out the lesser known, there should be little problems. I this case I believe the switches NPD sells are those from Standard Motor Products, same as O'Reillys lists.
Mike

Fly Mach 1 driver out for a week, he'll get it fixed right in no time. But Midlife is driving distance,  so...  :)

You must like projects.  You already have the best cars available to mankind, yet you step back to the simple 70 coupe. It is so great to see another one of us who appreciates the old metal.