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3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive availiable at any auto parts store should work. I used that to put headliner on a coupe and don't remember it bleeding through the moonskin vinyl.

I put a small block on a Mustang that came with 200 over 20 years ago. Kept 6 cylinder springs, 7.25 diff, front factory discs and rear drums. This is a daily driver/cruiser. Diff was still working until last year and started whining as it leaked fluid and I did not add some in time. Front springs were a little soft for the small block and the front of the car would roll and dip. Instead of changing the springs, I moved the spring perches about 1/2 inches inward (drilled 2 new holes on UCA). By changing the moment arm, 6 cylinder springs act stiffer. This change has been working good for me. In short, you do not have to change the diff, front springs etc. for a cruiser/daily driver.

Do the brake lights work?

Same clips used on door panels.

If you do not want to cut/splice your original harness, only solution I see is mount it in the trunk; hook up metermatch to the wire to the sender and post from the sender. You have to run a wire to the trunk to power the metermatch.

Len, there are different ways/tools/gauges used to do alignment and they will all have different numbers for same color but give the same result; so It is difficult to give a paint by numbers version without knowing which tools/gauges you have. You do not need to buy a special gauge (like the one use on the link above) unless you need to adjust caster which is not necessary in your case just to drive to an alignment shop (unless the shop is a few counties over). Just search for "how to adjust camber with a digital angle finder (or level)" and "how to adjust toe with a tape measure". Then you will see many ways and find one that you can accomplish with the gauges/tools you already have or by only buying a cheap angle finder. On a side note, you even don't need a special gauge to align caster.

Hey Mikee, I had to remove inner quarter panel of my 69 Grande to run some wires to the trunk today . It had a screw on the top forward of the panel (besides the screw at the top back marked with blue tape) and 2 door panel clips on forward edge; the brackets that the clips are attached to can be seen on the picture of the back of the panel I posted above.

İf you want a quick alignment just to drive to a shop, get an angle finder and align the camber on a level surface. Then using a tape measure, align the toe using measurements from front and rear of the front tires (you can measure from the grooves on the tire). Don't worry about caster (which takes longer and requires kind of specialized measuring devices to align) and let the shop deal with it.

Yes.

I think the AC is on only on 2 AC modes. It is off during windshield defrost and de-fog modes. Top lever is tied to vacuum control valve (to direct air to floor, dash etc) and also activates the AC switch; bottom lever is tied to blend door cable which diverts air through AC evaporator or heater coil (or mix of both) to adjust the output air temp.

Yup, my bad, capillary thermo switch is in series so evaporator does not feeeze.

İ smoke new Mustangs with my daily driver 1969 Grande with it's original 302 all the time; because they are too busy taking pictures/videos of my car. :)

@Mach1 Driver Terry, First a disclaimer, am not an EE guy. Your schematic shows an "AC Mode Switch" and an A"C De-icing Switch" connected in series. Don't think that is correct. There is only one SPST switch controlled by a cam on the control panel and it closes the circuit to send power to the compressor clutch either in "Max" or in Fresh" AC modes; so İ think your schematic should show those two switches as "Max A/C" and "Fresh A/C" switches and connected parallel, not series; am İ correct? See these photos for the switch and the cam on the control panel.

Looked at a 69 and a 70. Both are the same. There are 3 holes, 2 are marked with white tape and 1 with blue tape on above picture. Only attaching screw is in the hole with blue tape. The lower forward hole does not have a screw (and a hole on the cars for the screw). The other one with white tape (the one you asked about with red arrow on your picture) has a closed cell foam behind it (and compressed between the panel and the bracket welded on the inner fender well) See pictures below for the tab that the only screw is used to secure the panel and the closed cell foam on the other hole.

If my memory serves me right, you are missing the tab at aft upper corner of your quarter panel, and there shouldn't be a hole where red arrow is. I'll get you pictures tomorrow unless someone posts before me.

As far as I know, the inner piece on shock tower and big block reinforcements were not lap welded at the factory. I bet they were cracked and they put the big block brace looking reinforcements inside (real big block reinceforcement is one piece, not 3 pieces welded together) and lap welded everything so the cracks won't grow. I would V grind the cracks and weld them and not spend time to stop drill unless you want a big project and replace the towers etc.

Mikee, one suggestion for you. The piece in between the window brackets on above picture hits the stop at the bottom of the door and stops the window when it is rolled down. When you crank the window down, the force from window regulator pulls the window down from the 2 glued brackets and at the bottom of the travel, the small bracket hits the window stop and pushes the window up which in time loosens the glue. I used PVC pipe cut length vise and wrapped them on the bottom of the glass runs (put a zip tie to hold the 2 pieces of PVC together) at adjusted lengths so the 2 glued brackets hit the PVC stops just before the middle stop hits the stop on the door. This way the stop force and movement force are both on the 2 glued brackets so the middle bracket is not the stop any more and can't push the glass up and force the glued joints.

Hey Bob, did you get it?

I wish you were closer.

Randy, the key buzzer switch is attached to the column, not to the turn signal switch. As far as I remember, that switch and switches on the A pillars for the interior light to come on when the door is open is in the circuit to activate the key on ignition and engine not running buzzer. The door ajar light is activated by the switches that are on the door latches, if the latch is not on second catch and door is not fully closed, the light comes on. I have a dissassembled 70 XR7 with door ajar light and key buzzer if you need more info.

Phil, I am not sure if you can find those clips separate, you may have to buy the whole vent to get the clip from. Those clip only hold the shield of the cable in place, you can mount a piece a 2x3 cm sheet metal on top of the cable using a sheet metal screw.

Can't remember for sure but weren't there retainers on the pins holding the chrome? I filled around the pins with 2 part epoxy on a 69 that was missing some retainers.

Did you use 2% or whole milk jug? :)

Lol; I am out bid, I guess Bob got himself a fuel sender now. :)

Mike, Sounds good to me; pm me your new address and I'll mail you a check. You should have my address in one of our pms.