lalojamesliz

Bookem' Danno!
 
 

"The first to claim innocence are the first to be suspicious of the crime." 
Colombo  

I didn't do it!  I swear on a stack of Camaro manuals!!!

That wire brush is the one that sheds metal slivers like nobody's business.  Huh...that explains a lot about RPM!

This is the type of wire drum I was talking about yesterday. 

There are many other ways to buy them, goggle is your friend for parts search :)
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2001,mustang,4.6l+v8+dohc,1372643,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper%2C+rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,14204

Car-part.com is also a good source for used parts, but I didn't see any Cobra calipers listed. 
https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

I might add that you don't really need a primer under that truckbed liner..  It'll go right onto bare metal (as long as it is really clean and dry I always wipe with laquer thinner or IPA right before applying) and it sticks hard.  Great stuff - even if a little expensive - IMO.
 

I prefer Duplicor's engine paint primer.  

 
And I use Duplicolors' ford semi-gloss black engine paint everywhere too.   If you're careful with this sprayer, you can get a very nice finish with the semi-gloss black:
 
 
And for the truckbed liner, I use Rustoleum.  I find it is not anywhere near as rough as what you would see in a truckbed, in fact, the surface is not even very orange peely, but it is in some sense "rough" as compared to paint.  Good thing is, if you put it down on a good primer or primer or bare metal... it is not coming off, and it is hard a nails! 

I've had mine in the wheel wells for about 15Kmi now.  I just went and wiped the road dirt off with a damp towel, and this is what it looks like behind the drivers wheel:

Now, for caulk?  I am struggling to remember..  I wanted something that dried pretty hard and would accept paint.  I didn't want it too silicon-ized because even cured that stuff is very rubbery.  I found something at the HW store, but damn if I can recall what it was....  It needs to be something a little more flexible that JB weld, but significantly less than silicone (if JB weld is a 1, and 100% silicone is 10, you want to get something in the 3 to 4 range.  This is so the paint or bed liner wont chip off the caulked surface easily.  And you don't want it too hard because as the body panels move relative to one another (pot holes on teh road or whatever, it needs to give some).  and when you put it in and it's cured, I cover with primer paint or truckbed liner immediately, so it has a fresh surface to bond to.
Hope that helps.
Jay

thats a a great looking Celica... it reminds me of the group b races in the 80's. Crazy the 90's JDM cars are going up in Value

Under the fenders, (after I cleaned them well with a wire brush on a 4in grinder wheel), I wiped it down with lacquer thinner to clean, and put a good coat of rattle can primer on.  Immediately thereafter I applied some rattle can truck bed liner - I am SUPER happy with the rattle can truck bed liner under the fenders... It's tough as a boot and cleans off really easily!  I'm 4-5 yrs hence now and I have zero complaints with that stuff! 

I run a similar set up on my car.  I have the 13 in rotor with Bullitt/Cobra caliper.  Running the stock booster and master cylinder and just put a proportioning valve in the rear as I am running disc in the rear as well.   I know Street or Track has hardware to bolt that up to your spindle if you needed.  

Here is something you can try.  I found the near final prep phase that worked great for me was a small pan of lacquer thinner and a scotch bite pad and a cloth rag.  From the pics I see, you are close to or at the stage I would revert to the scotchbrite pad with lacquer thinner technique.  Once you have most of the big crud removed (I would say you are definitely there).  I would get a 1 qt disposable tupperware and fill it halfway with lacquer thinner.  I get the best and thickest pair of gloves I can find (PVC gloves are the only thing that ever provided much protection from the strong lacquer thinner).  Nitrile will melt instantly so don't use that, and other rubber gloves may work for awhile.  Even the PVC gets hard and crunchy after several uses, but for the most part it protected my hands.
Just dip the pad in lacquer thinner and gently rub the surface with it.  After you have scrubbed an area briefly, a lot of crud and grease and oil will be released.  dip the rag in the same stuff and wipe away the crud.  examine the surface and feel of it with a bare hand after the lacquer thinner has evaporated.  The goal is NOT to remove everything (it will do that if you keep rubbing!) but to leave the surface with 1 or 3 things: 1) a very clean and smooth original paint layer, 2) a very clean and smooth original primer layer, or 3) bare metal.  For myself the goal is to get to stage 1 or 2, but avoid 3 where you can.  As long as the metal is good and the primer and paint are original, and you have all the dirt and crud off - you are good to coat with the base layer of your new primer.  Where everything is stripped down to bare metal, just make sure the surface feels smooth with areas that have primer or primer & paint on them.
Once I have a whole section ready using the lacquer thinner + scotch brite pad followed by lacquer thinner + rag , I would rattle can engine primer over the surface I had just prepared.  Do it early because the laquer thinner softens the paint/primer and scratches the surfaces and you get a great bond with that new primer base.  And you want to do it before it can get dirty again or rust starts setting back in (this can happen literally overnight).
When I did my engine compartment, I followed this work by going back in and caulking up the metal seams with a hard/firm long-lasting caulk that would accept paint (be sure not to caulk lower edges so if water comes in from the other side it can drain back out).  When that dried, I put a full coat of primer over the top of that, and then the paint.  I got really exceptional results doing this and it was not a ton of work.
One caution is that this method will put a TON of black paint/oil/dirt sludge on the ground under where you are working.  Your shoes and pants will get coated, and if you don't put down a drop cloth or large cardboard, it will blacken your floor good.  Do the prepwork by covering the ground under you well before you do this work.   I wound up wearing tyvek overalls for this work.  It's messy but satisfying.
For RUST:  I have used Ospho a lot.  I have found another good solution - perhaps even better - but it works a little slower.  That is Evaporust.  The instructions call for you to soak a paper towel or something with it and soak it through, then lay the towel over the rusted metal.  I find that it needs to sit overnight, and if the rust is bad, the next day I brush and clean it as much as possible and do it again.  One benefit over ospho is that it doesn't leave behind the white powder when it dries.  One downside maybe expense.  However, a friend told be he got a gallon of it for $17 on amazon.  I use this mostly for nuts and bolts - the fluid can be reused many times if you are using it as a dipping fluid.
 

Have you tried 3M Roloc discs?  They cut through rust easily and are useful for grinding down welds as well. 
https://www.amazon.com/Coceca-Inches-Surface-Conditioning-Sanding/dp/B07T1M9KC1/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=roloc+discs&qid=1624843103&sr=8-2

Man up. Why do you need a booster? 

Look at @Vicfregposts, I believe he has Ranger master and has a booster on his 70 vert project. You can see what booster he uses.

Hey Bob,  I'm back again ha ha ha 
I have a lot to do and my goal is to get that beast running by the end of this year.  I'll have to man up and work through the heat. 
Screw my budget.... I'll get what I need to get this going this year
I upgraded my welder and some other stuff for my garage.  I'm about to reinforce my shock towers and control arms hopefully tomorrow. 

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

When I did my rebuild, I pulled out all carpet, seats, belts - everything I could unbolt.  After vacuuming and just cleaning it with usual stuff, I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with.  But there was a lot of seam sealer (which is like a semi-hardened tar that has body paint on most of it) around.  I didn't want to sand everything off and besides, a lot of the paint was in decent shape - why remove it?
So what I did was the following: I got a 1in putty knife, some really tough PVC gloves, some scotchbrite pads, and a 5 gallon bucket of "clean-up thinner" (Laquer Thinner) from a local paint supply store.  After getting dirt off and isolating areas of rust, I used the putty knife to remove most of the seam sealer (60-70%% of which was either flaking off, or sticking to things it shouldn't be). Then, I used the scotchbrite dipped in a small bowl of thinner, to clean areas where the sealer had been removed and clean and rough up the painted areas.  Laquer thinner will remove the paint if allowed to stay on there very long, so I used it lightly, and would clean the surface, and rough it up with the scotchbrite, and immediately wipe it off with a rag so it didn't wrinkle the remaining paint/primer.  This left a really clean, primer ready surface.  This worked great for getting the remaining seam sealer off, and it got the paint prepped to receive primer over the top, leaving the good original paint/primer in place.  The use of a scotchbrite pad soaked in laquer thinner is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen, it cuts thru everything (oil/ grease, dirt grime, paint).  It is pure hell on gloves and hands, so get a couple pair of gloves as even a pair of PVC gloves will harden after several sessions of use. Obvious caveats go with this process for respirators and fans.  Laquer thinner is a strong chemical.
After that, I just resealed the seams with orderly beads of paintable silicon caulk, and then I used rattle can automotive primer over everything.  Making damn sure not to paint over anything resembling rust or its semi-hidden effects.  I always ground any of that down and put the primer on bare metal once rust was gone.  
I put on at least 2 coats of primer everywhere, then put down dyna-mat for sound deadening everywhere.  This was a fairly long process,  but a lot better than trying to remove everything (remember, in my case most of the floor was in good shape).  The floor looked great after this, and I think it was a nice medium restore option that left good parts of the car in place, but re-did everything else as best I could.   Trying to remove everything with anything less than a full-body dip is a ton more work than it is worth.
Hope this addresses your question, and you find some of these tips helpful.  It wasn't super fast, but I was really happy with the results, and I felt like the effort was focused where it was needed.

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

Just bare in mind that the interior will mostly be covered with carpet and trim. Basically just clean the area of dirt, oil and paint that is flaky, sand any rust area's and apply a good primer. I hand painter the floor and other parts in my 65 fastback. 

I read on another site the WW master has the front bowl for the front brakes. When I did my manual brakes I used new lines, a 1993 Ranger? mc, and only the WW adjustable prop valve. My brakes work pretty darn well. 

Yeah, look at Bob's avatar- that's his car stopping !! 
Pay no attention, I'm just jealous.

Yes, power seats that look like they came with the car.  I will add to me Christmas list for next year.