unilec

I also had trouble starting with fuel drain back after a couple of weeks, so I fitted a holley electric flow through fuel pump near the tank and a switch under the dash. Once the fuel line and carb bowl are full my car starts after a few cranks. It also a back up if your mechanical pump should fail.

I prefer to leave to carb on my car, but have fitted an inline holley electric fuel pump that I can operate with a switch on the dash, just to fill the fuel lines and fill the float bowls ,normally after the car has been sitting for a few weeks. Starts very well then.

https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/pid=28.html The original voltage regulators are a known culprit of poor or low gauge readings and gauge needle flickering. This attachment is an upgrade that you can do yourself or a friend with limited electronic experience can do for you. I have done this mod and several members have as well, so a small amount of outlay it worth doing. I did this mod a few years ago now and seem to work well, although my car is running, but still not on the road.

What I was reffering too, is to bolt an extention to the existing bolt hole and with another nut welded to an extention plate move the retractor backwards.

No too sure if this is what you are looking for, also easy to make yourself. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264118752062?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264118752062&targetid=309727335774&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9070586&poi=&campaignid=1669056926&mkgroupid=67513082834&rlsatarget=pla-309727335774&abcId=1123846&merchantid=7364522&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIzo7Ww-SV-AIV2QkrCh37ugBNEAQYBCABEgInOvD_BwE

If you have original glass, you can have the scratches polished out, or do it yourself.

Your best bet is to use a heat temperature gauge to establish what the engine temperature is in comparison that to the car gauge, that will give you some idea if the gauge is remotely correct.Obviously there are cheaper guns available. https://www.totaltools.com.au/108289-milwaukee-infrared-temp-gun-226840

Probably something like this: http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60153

Wow, never seen rust that bad, even the bondo filler is rusting.

Check out this video may give you a better idea. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9q3Zqic86sU

Try clamping one side and then use a 90deg scriber to ease one side out far enough to place a small screw driver in between the clip and the housing. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/endeavour-tools-da1255-90-degree-engineers-scriber

Another useful tool to have is a Tram Gauge. Easy to make one and its good if you are doing a lot of body work to check the diagonals from front to back, before you start welding on frame rails or rockers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_I_BCkkazCA

Another tip, wipe the gasket over with solvent, there is residue of the mold releasing agent that need to be remove to allow the glue to hold properly.

Did you adjust the gap between master and booster? https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/got-a-soft-pedal-dont-forget-the-booster-pin-to-master-cylinder-gap#:~:text=Master Power Brakes recommends that,pin to the master cylinder.