lalojamesliz

Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.

$700 for an alternator? I've bought several running cars for less than $700.

This would depend on thermostat/environment, my 408w has a 180 thermostat, still testing the fans and trying to find that sweet spot.
Also, this weekend was very hot so I wanted to adjust the fans to come on sooner just to see how it worked. however, even with the 140amp 1 wire alternator, these fans are putting load at idle its jumps from 14.5v and drops to 13.8v - 12.5-7v with both fans on. however, when driving it shoots back up at 14.5v so instead of having both fans going on I re-adjusted the temps again for the second fan to come on a little later.
any suggestions if that type of change in voltage normal? still trying to learn this electrical fan thing as its something new to me. new settings: low fan at 180 and 188 for the high fan. its now between 13.5v - 14v at idle.
also, human error on my part, as I was adjusting the temp via iOS and I noticed the app was throwing off a different temp number compared to the gauges. after reading the manual (go figure) and ran diagnostics, I forgot to configure the temp sender. its now using the BIM I/O cable and now reading accurately with the app and gauges.
 

Alright, update!
 
Finally got my Contour Fan Installed and running. it was a fairly hot day (80 degrees) and engine temps were going from 185-190, seemed the single fan was able to keep down temps as the 2nd fan never kicked off. I used Dakota digital fan relay, PAC-2800BT since I have the RTX Series and give it a cleaner look and less wiring.
 
I used 2 x 70 amp relays from DD.
 
after looking around old threads for mounting ideas, I decided to go with an L Bracket to mount the dual fan. we had to trim the original mounts but otherwise, the installation was a breeze and fit like a glove.
 
I ran diagnostics to check sensors and ran Test Mode via the app and I was able to trigger low and high fans and now the drive, the real test!
 
The single fan was able to kick off with no problem during my drive, with the DD Accessories App, I was able to set up my low & high Temps for both fans. Low would kick off around 188, and close at 185. the second fan, would turn on around 190 and turn off at 188.
 
The single fan was working great, didn't seem to struggle, and definitely could feel it was pulling a lot of air. Today was hot and humid, so engine temps did go up slightly and hit 190 but didn't hear the second fan kick-off, most likely when I drove, the air would make the temps go down since I'm moving in stop-and-go traffic but didn't see it rise above 190.
 
The question I have is would you recommend if I should have both fans going on at the same time or should I have one running and the other kick-off when it gets over 190? This is the first time playing with the setup.
 
Overall, happy with the conversion.

Finally made some progress of getting Christine back on the road.



 

Hey guys, just for "closure" (as often there is none in these threads), I chose to sell the 2nd gen C4 I had bought as a stop-gap (per my original description).  Son limped the car up from LA and I set about re-building his original C4 first gen tranny over a 3 week period.  Never had done that before, so I was quite uneasy.  Took my time, took a zillion photos, and found at least 3 significant issues that would have explained the bad behavior.
Anyway, C4 is back in, new servo, o-rings, bands, clutches, steel, thrust washers, bushings, seals, etc. and the Stang is back on the road.  Only set us back the price of the master rebuild kit so I'm going to call it good for now.  I'm sort of trivializing a rebuild that my hair standing on end at times, but it all worke dout.
Thanks again for all your input.  
Tom

After retiring from the police department I went to work as a armed deputy bailiff for the local municipal court. One of our duties was hauling prisoners from the county jail to our court and back. We had a 15 passenger van for such purpose. The municipal garage mechanics installed a switch under the rubber mat, the van had factory installed rubber mat on the floor instead of carpeting. This switch was unable to be seen yet had to be depressed and held down while turning the key for starting. Should we become overpowered by a prisoner they could not start the van for a getaway.   Dave R.

Kill Switches and Protecting your Car
It seems that everyone has their own opinion or philosophy about protecting their car…and you know what they say about opinions, but here is mine. Some people only insure their car and don’t even lock it, insisting that an accomplished thief will steal it if they want it. To me, that says they have no personal investment in the car- no blood, sweat, or pride of ownership. Mine is part of the family, a very old friend, and it’s MY CAR, not theirs for the taking. So here are the steps I have taken.
I believe you must have a layered approach, with as many layers as you can apply. Slow the thieves down and make it as difficult as possible. In this case, I believe that paranoia can be your friend.
1.    Insurance: today's thieves could roll up with a car hauler and a GPS jammer. Unless you have your Mark 1000 Visual Acuity Devices trained on it (your eyeballs), your car will be gone. But most thieves aren’t that accomplished or prepared, and don’t need to be- it’s just too easy to steal a classic Mustang. So insure it and keep it in sight as much as possible when it is out of your garage.
2.    Where you take it: don’t take it to the mall, theatre, supermarket, or other long term parking place. They only need seconds. When on a road trip, one of our members will take his car to the local police department and ask them to lock it in their secured parking overnight. He claims he has never been turned away as long as he offered them a ride.
3.    Lock the hood: everything they need to steal the car is under the hood, so protect it. There is way too much mischief they can get into under there. I use a 76 Ford F350 truck hood latch. It has a cable going inside to a handle with a keyed lock. You also need a “helper spring” mounted to the hood. This pushes the hood up and away from the latch so the latch doesn’t re-engage as soon as you release the pull handle. Mid 70s Ford truck latches will bolt right into a 69-70 Mustang and the same vehicle also has the helper spring. All I had to modify was the secondary safety release arm so it was easier to access.
4.    Lock the doors: this is so obvious that I almost didn’t mention it. If you don’t give them an open invitation, they may move on. It’s just basic common sense.
5.    Alarm: a noise maker is good- I like them. Even if other people don’t pay attention, you will. They can have vibration, and glass sensors, door, hood and trunk switches (remember to lock the hood anyway), and they can even call you if they sense an alarm or set off a GPS tracker. It’s all good stuff and part of the layering process. Where they fall short is how they attempt to actually prevent the car from running, and that will require a technical discussion on KILL SWITCHES. On the other hand, a system like LoJack is good (and expensive), but it doesn’t try to stop the theft, it just shows the cops where it is once you notify them it has been taken.
6.    How cars are stolen: the method most often used is a jumper wire and a screwdriver. This is so ridiculously easy that you won’t believe it, and it literally only requires seconds. Here’s what they do:
(1)  Lift the hood (that’s why you have to lock it).
(2)  Put a jumper wire from the battery positive to the coil positive. This supplies power directly to your ignition system, and bypasses everything, including aftermarket alarms.
(3)  Use a screwdriver to short from the front solenoid terminal to the “S” terminal. This cranks the engine to start it, and they are gone.
Seeing is believing, so here is a link to an 8-1/2 minute video, where he shows how to jack a 60s era car. It’s not a Mustang, but it has the SAME features. If anything, a Mustang is easier to steal because the coil and solenoid are up front. If you pay attention around 4:15, he talks about Fords. He’s a little long winded, but I find him entertaining, and everything he says is unfortunately accurate. As you’ll see, it takes him about 58 seconds to open the locked door, then the hood, start the engine and close the hood- all while explaining it and not rushing the process. PLEASE WATCH THIS
Below is a schematic (not a wire diagram) that shows why this is so simple and how it works. This is the ignition system for a classic Mustang:

The jumper wire is #2, which connects the battery directly to the coil and bypasses everything else (ignition switch, alarm, whatever). The screwdriver is #3, which connects the battery to the solenoid “S” or coil terminal. This turns the solenoid on and the engine cranks for as long as the screwdriver is there. And away they go.
7.    KILL SWITCHES: this is a kill switch used on a car with points. It is just a simple on-off toggle switch with one side connected to the chassis and the other side connected to the wire going between the coil and the points.

Don’t let this description throw you – this is just how the physical laws in our little corner of the universe work: The points have to open and close to make the magnetic field of the coil build and collapse to make a high voltage spark. With the kill switch closed the coil will stay on, but the field can’t collapse, so there is no transformer action in this DC circuit, so there is NO spark.
 8.    Kill Switches for other ignition systems: here are a few other popular ignition systems and how to disable them.
 This would work for a Pertronix 1 as well. When I showed the example in #6 above to Pertronix, they were sure it would disable the car, but thought it may also damage the Pertronix module. They offered this solution instead:

ANOTHER...

9.    Fuel kill switches: there’s no magic here, just a switch to open the circuit to a pump or fuel solenoid.

10. The Problem with Kill Switches is simple- where to hide the switch? If it could be hidden in a place where it’s not seen or found, but can still be activated, then that would make it very difficult to defeat. That can be done using a magnetic reed switch. The reed can be hidden behind the plastic of the dash or console, or “A” pillar trims, or behind any plastic. Then when you pass a magnet over it (within about an inch) it will allow the car to start. In this simple circuit, the kill switch is turned on as soon as the ignition key is turned off. So you can’t forget to set the kill switch (its automatic), you just have to use the magnet to turn the kill switch off, so you can start the car. So, turn the key to ON, pass the magnet near the reed switch and the LED will turn ON, announcing the kill switch is OFF, then turn the key to start. Easy peasy. For maintenance by some shop, insert a fuse (safer than using a switch) and the kill switch is bypassed.

Side note...you may think this is a bit too complicated and unnecessary, but after reading all of the above, one guy told me that he uses RFID (radio frequency identification) to "unlock" his limit switch. I think that's really cool, but WOW! That's a whole lot more complicated than a reed switch, a magnet and a relay.
11.  Transmission lock: If you have a 70, I understand this was done from the factory. If the back wheels can’t roll, it makes the process of towing more difficult. I have a 69 with an automatic and of course it has a floor shifter (since that’s all they ever came with). Back in the day, and long before digital pictures, I came up with a method to lock the shift linkage with a spring loaded pin. The pin is removed from the linkage by a solenoid, and it is operated by a switch that is controlled by the shift button on the T-handle. If the kill switch is on, the power to the solenoid is cut and you can’t take it out of park. I would love to show it to you, but I still don’t have any pictures. I came up with this using the simple home tools I had at the time, so think about it and surprise us with your version. You may be able to provide pictures before I tear mine apart ;)
12.  Electronic handbrakes: sometimes called electronic parking brakes – work on the same basis but use electric motors to achieve the locking effect. Press or pull the button and motors on the rear brakes press the pads onto the discs. You can often hear a reassuring whirring noise as the motors do their work.

Unless you have had the car in bare metal before, never assume what you see is what is under the skin.  All of these projects turn into a "discovery" mission, so be prepared.  
Another way of saying this is that sometimes, it's better use your imagination, keep the lights off, and not see the girl naked....
So, my advice....keep the lights off.... enjoy driving the car.....
 
 

I don't want to talk smack, but isn't this a picture of Randy as a child?

 

My first stage was front lowered EIBACH springs, shocks & fatter sway bars
rear EIBACH shocks & fat sway bar.
I also added AMERICAN RACING “Halibrands” wrapped in fat modern MICHELINS. She has front BAER brakes too.
I have race cars so I just want a comfortable cruiser.
inside I added Bluetooth, new speakers, NARDI steering wheel, and CORBEAU seats w custom upholstery and JEGS 4 point harness bcus the original upper harness is ridiculous to wear

Was hoping they were for nitrous 

Sold

3/16 inch gap is aok. I've read that anywhere from 1/16 to 3/16 is good. 
Do you need ARP, no. Plenty on miles on Henry bolts over the years. But you won't beat the quality and piece of mind with ARP. At minimum get the 6 flex plate bolts. 

I would go with a 3.5" Dia for sure.

While I was in high school, i stumbled across a red 1969 Mustang Fastback for sale.  The asking price was $6K and it was in pretty decent shape.  The downside is that as a high school student I didn't have the $6K.  But I was able to secure a personal loan from a family friend, with the agreement that I had to pay it off within 1 year.  I worked my ass off that year and made the final payment just before the 1 year mark.  Later that same year, I enlisted in the Marine Corps, and after several months of basic training and then technical training for my job within the military, I went home on leave and picked up the Mustang.  I drove it to Virginia, and then several months later I crossed the country with it to San Diego, CA.  I planned to be in San Diego for at least 3 years (I never left), so I decided to take the opportunity to go through the car, restoring and repairing what I could.  Unfortunately, I bit off more than my wallet could handle at the time (hey, who hasn't with these things?), so the project ended up taking much longer than I had originally planned.  So much that I eventually, and very reluctantly, decided to sell the car to an older gentlemen that was planning on finishing the restoration with his son.  I have no idea what ever happened to that car, but I hope it's still on the road and not sitting in a junk yard somewhere.
I always regretted selling that car, and over the years I'd looked casually at picking up another one but it never seemed like the right time.  That is until last year, when I was window shopping online and found another red 1969 Mustang Fastback for just the right price.  Not perfect, but not a bucket of junk either, which is exactly what I wanted.  So after a few exchanges with the seller, I took a road trip to Vegas to see the car in person.  I test drove it and it was like a freaking time machine.  As soon as I sat behind the wheel I felt 18 again.  I bought it on the spot.
So that was a year ago, and I've been slowly going through the car making upgrades and improvements.  I replaced the cooling system, swapped in a completed MSD system, and upgraded the stock dash instrument cluster with one from Dakota Digital.  Then earlier this year I came across a local body shop that does absolutely amazing work (Sylvester's Customs).  I drove out to see the owner and spent a few hours learning about his shop, his employees, and his process.  At the end of the conversation he agreed to put my car on the waiting list and I couldn't be more excited!
Now it seems that I'm all in on a restoration/rejuvenation.  I'm not planning on going all original, since I like the idea of taking advantage of the 50 years of auto advancements since the car was launched, but I'm mostly keeping with the original look of the 69 Mach 1.  I'll be using this thread to keep track of all the work that I do to the car over time.  Right now I'm in the middle of swapping out the Ford 8inch rearend with a 9inch from Currie, and replacing the C4 with a Tremec TKX swap from SST.
My original Mustang from high school:

 
My new Mustang:

PIcs from my '70 Vert. Not sure if it will help or not....
 

Ha ha ha.....wait a minute.....

The 16:1 radio box may be heavy at really low speeds below 5-10 mph, but they are perfect with great feel above that. I'm an old, out of shape 65 year vintage guy who had no trouble using a 16:1 as a manual box with 245s and 7° caster. Girlie boys like Lalojames might struggle with the 16:1 box. :)

154-1501
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-1501
https://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/154-1501/10002/-1
 

but think of the fun if you lend her a hand...as it were

From what i have seen there is all types of girdles ,some for women and some for men . Skimpy and full body ! The full body is nice but could be a bear to get off !

Hi Rich,
I replaced all of the brake lines. Don't use 50 year old lines with your new brake system. I bought the 1970 Mustang kit from Inline Tube. All the lines will need some modification. I prefer to use Stainless Steel. but it is much harder to work with...hard to bend, and if you need to trim them, it is impossible to flare the ends with hand tools. So I would recommend using Steel lines.
The line from the rear to the Proportioning valve will need some bending to line up, as will the two front lines. The lines from the valve to the master cylinder will need to be bent. My conversion kit cam with rubber lines to connect the two rear lines to the rear disc caliper, but I chose to go all hardline instead. The rear lines after the junction "T" on the axle will need to be  trimmed and bent to line up with eh rear calipers. The critical part for me was finding the Banjo to 3/8" female inverted flare to connect the existing hardline fitting to the rear caliper. 
My front Granada disc brake assembly came with the flex lines. I needed to add an adapter to connect the hardline fitting to the flex tube. I also need to install a mounting bracket to secure the hard line and flex tube to the frame.
Finding all the right fitting adapters took a lot of time a searching and some trial and error. If you have access to a hydraulic flaring tool and know someone who can help you make the tubes with the right flares and fittings, then that may be a good route to take.
Finally, you will need to make some mods to the parking brake cable ends to adapt it to the rear brake calipers. Also you will need a GM Proportioning valve Brake Warning light plug. Our Mustang have two wire plugs and the GM plug is one wire. Just twist the two wires from you Ford harness together and connect it to the GM one wire.  Let me know if I can provide anymore info.

A 1" bore master. I asked if he can give me advice on how to set the bias and he basically told me every car is different and gave me a list of the master cylinders he sells.....
 Yeah...
Well I ordered a wilwood tandem but the dual remote reservoir and adj porpotional valve kit. I like it because it has the pushrod already and lines from the master to the porpotional valve. I just learned that the tandem feature makes it two independent systems.  I didn't know that. That sold me 
I just didn't care for the oem style that needs to be opened to view how much fluid you have. 

I don't know for sure but i believe the only dot approved would be sealed beam lights.