lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted January 8, 2022 I bolted up my flexplate with the block plate and I inserted my torque converter all the way into the trans (3 steps). I bolted up my 4r70w to my 351w and I can slide the torque converter roughly 3/16" (0.1975) from its seated position against the trans to the flexplate. Is that enough space or do I need to space it out more? Super stoked I'm finally at this step! I'm going to order some bellhousing bolts, flexplate bolts and bolts for the torque converter to flexplate then I can give the final assembly. I know arp bolts are nice and strong but do I really need all of these in arp? Just curious Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,173 Report post Posted January 8, 2022 3/16 inch gap is aok. I've read that anywhere from 1/16 to 3/16 is good. Do you need ARP, no. Plenty on miles on Henry bolts over the years. But you won't beat the quality and piece of mind with ARP. At minimum get the 6 flex plate bolts. 1 lalojamesliz reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted January 8, 2022 Fantastic news! I'll add the bolts to my order. Thanks Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,173 Report post Posted January 8, 2022 And... you said bolts for the torque converter, but you already know they take nuts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted January 8, 2022 6 hours ago, RPM said: And... you said bolts for the torque converter, but you already know they take nuts. Not mine.... it's a PTC 10" and it only has threaded holes on it. I looked it up before and it's a decent brand. It came with the 4r70w I bought used. I guess the guy either removed the studs or it had bolts. I was measuring for the bolts last night and my converter has 3/4" max available depth so I'm looking for 7/16" 3/4"-20 with some thick locking washers or studs with the nuts I guess. My flexplate has 1" max available depth with it mounted and it has the same thread pitch as the converter so 7/16" 1"-20 with thick locking washers. For the bellhousing, I need 2.25" length bolts and don't see packs of 6..... whatever. Always something Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69NC 21 Report post Posted January 11, 2022 I see you have quality control help :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,173 Report post Posted January 11, 2022 Hmm, all Fords I've seen used nuts on studs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 811 Report post Posted January 11, 2022 I must be a Ford, as I am a fairly nutty stud! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 538 Report post Posted January 11, 2022 groan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GypsyR 32 Report post Posted January 15, 2022 Aftermarket "high stall" torque converters are most often repurposed stock torque converters originally used behind a small and weakish engine. Back in the day "Chevy Monza" torque converters were the go-to's. So much so that none exist anymore in stock forum. Small cars and engines use small diameter converters, so the builders weld "ears" on them to match up to big engine flexplates. Then they drill an tap them according to what flexplate the intended use it. They or you could bother to put studs in but nobody does. Some such converters aren't even threaded, you have to use nuts and bolts. Whatever, it all seems to work OK. I do like to use blue Loctite on choices other than the stock Ford studs and nuts which don't need it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites