bigmal

Hi Wal, I replaced my CVR and it turns out the old one was fine. You are welcome to have it. If you want to head down my way I'm home the next few days. Or I can express post it to you today but you won't see it until mid next week. Alternatively Sydney Mustangs may be open today.

I never even thought about it. Now you mention it, that's way too close!

Hi guys, Since refitting my FMX following the conversion to RHD I have been experiencing some problems. Takes a few seconds to go into FWD or REV. Makes some strange wurring noises and as I his 160 it shifted down. I took it to a recommended auto shop today to see what could be done. Lots of metal and basically needs an overhaul. Estimated $1800 to $2000. He said it is not urgent and driving it longer won't make the overhaul cost any more so for the time being I will keep driving it until I need the overhaul. I am wondering if I should move to a C4 or stick with the FMX. Cost will be a factor as well. To overhaul the FMX the guy said getting the roller bearings is near impossible. Does anyone know of they are available in the US? Is the C4 a much better gearbox than the FMX? I am running a stock 351C 4V. If I was to change to a C4 What would I need to change as well? Will the shifter be the same? Tail shaft? Flex plate? Thanks.

I had difficulty with mine as well. I ended up using a piece of wire in a loop about 3" long with one end wrapped around a 3" nail as a handle. I hooked the spring through the ring first and used the wire to pull the spring which allowed me to get the ring around the lamp and then put in the screws. A third hand would have helped. It took a couple of goes to get the technique right but it worked for me.

Hi Mac, I had no fuel/oil/temp gauges after changing the circuit board. I had a short between one of the posts for the gauges and the body of the instrument panel. If you use a multi meter and check betwwen the body and all 6 posts you should not have a direct short. The post easilly move around when the nuts are loose and can touch. One short takes out all three gauges. Once the short is removed mine worked normally.

That needs to be framed. Strait to the pool room with that!

Sounds like a plan. I'll give you a bell after Christmas. I'll tell my son we're out looking for snakes.

I will touch base before so we can park near each other

Love em

Love those wheels. Getting real close now. Will it be going to Castle Hill in January?

Interesting reading the comments re Cleveland’s. Mine is a 2/69 car with a 70 Cleveland. I never found out why the swap and to be honest I would have preferred the original Windsor. I keep wondering whether I should consider swapping for a Windsor when it’s time for an engine rebuild

I learn so much from this forum. Makes me want to fix my doors now.

Must be a 70 model. Only the two headlights.

That's a very nice mod. What does the switch look like?

I just attach them individually

I do solve lots of problems during those sleepless nights.

You certainly are into it. This is one of the most interesting bulids I've seen. I was telling the misses about it an managed to have her eyes glaze over faster than usual. Must be inversly proportional to my enthusiasm.

I have just taken the engineers certification to the RTA to have it listed on my rego. Apparently it was never listed as LHD when I first registered it so they took the report and amended the records so all sweet. The intersting part is when we were discussing requirements she said I could now take the placard off the back of the car that says 'Left Hand Drive'. When I said I didnt know it was a requirement she showed me on her screen that it was. I remember years ago seeing these placards on old LHD cars but did not know it was stil a requirement. I certainly have never seen a mustang with one recently.

Mine has them but I have no idea if they came with them. I like them but it stops you rolling the guardes if you need to.

Thanks Wally, Full rego although it doesn't say LHD on the current rego so I just submitt the paperwork.

I have found that the Lokar 'kits' are not usually 'kits' and require extra parts even though the picture shows all the parts. More than a little misleading. The bracket I used for throttle/kickdown was made from some old stock with a bit of welding/grinding. Pretty easy to make but anoying it isn't included.

I can't really say. But when I accelerate it seems to kick down at the right time. It's a shame you're on the other side of the world or you could take it for a drive and see.

Hi Mark, I fitted a Locar cable recently and it seems to work well. It kicks down at the right times although this was more ass than class. I just put it on and it worked. I had to replace my link as it was bent beyond salvage. I can't notice the difference with the cable.

Took it to Canberra on Friday for the Engineers final sign off. This is the first time it's been over 60kmph or further then the local shops. I did 600ks (370m) and it went great. (10mpg or 17L/100kms). Mind you I did have a headache from the exhaust drone and the constant ticking of the speedo cable which developed a glitch. The Engineer was happy with everything so it's of to submit the paperwork to the Motor Registry I even had some rain to check out the wipers and to my surprise they worked as they should. IMG_2105.MOV

I use a CTEK on my boat over winter. Unfortunately I thought it was a maintenance free battery. Turns out it wasn't and the cells dried out killing it. Pays to keep the water up to them if using this type of charger.