oapedVem

Could some one post a pic showing the routing of the front wiring harness.
Checking mine last night and it has some nasty crap repairs done.
Mine is a mess where the alternator wiring goes to the solenoid and voltage regulator.
Thanks
Walt

Hello everyone! I can't believe I didn't find this forum until now, I notice a few of the members here from my instagram account (@grabherblue69) !
Anyways, it's a little late to post too many picture from the past build - but I'll give you a quick rundown of the history of this car and where it's at now before I start giving incremental updates.
 
This was my father's first car when he was in high school in the late 70's - just a normal fastback with a 351W in it. It was wrecked in the front end and he paid $200 cash for it... Him and his two brothers as well as their father all had fastback mustangs! Later, their father (my grandpa) built a local family shop and the father and the 3 sons have ran it since, however my grandpa is getting pretty old and doesn't do any of the work there anymore. (It's called Ray's Garage.)
 
Back to the car - we care nothing about originality in our family. Dad went through about 6 motors in this car in high school, either blowing them up or wanting more. After the 351, all of them were big block FE motors. Additionally, they bought and sold mustangs all the time and Dad always swapped the parts he liked off of them before they were sold (sorry all of you original car owners out there who are confused as to why the rear sway bar is missing or the wood grain interior!). This thing has all the "'cool stuff" - fold down rear seat, Mach 1 Woodgrain Deluxe Interior, a nice console, a rear sway bar off of a Boss 302, front discs, and so much more. It sat outside for about 10 years before he handed it over to me to start working on, completely rusted out with a 390 that barely ran and tons of problems.
 
The plan: Do whatever you want to it that you like and make it yours.
 
As of now here is a list of what has been done to it:
 
-Lots of new metal - hood, doors, tailgate, taillight panel, and some other minor metal work. 
- Bodywork and paint - Grabber Blue!!! (1970 Color, but like I said, screw originality for this build.) Dad was a bodyman for about 10 years before becoming a full time mechanic - he did the spraying and I did all the bodywork myself. Not perfect at all, simply painted it to be a driver's car. 
- Stereo somewhat in progress - Small sub in the panel that goes to the trunk and new JBL speakers in the front/ rear. Also a kenwood single din headunit up front that doesn't jump out at all. 
- All new interior
                      - Recovered the front deluxe seats but instead of a red mach one stripe I got it done in blue.
                      - 80mil sound deadening throughout the whole floor plus new mass-backed carpet. 
                      - New-ish deluxe woodgrain door panels, much nicer than the ones it had before.
                      - Refinished the console and put in a new dash pad
                      - Lots of other minor details
- Somewhat mild 428 build
                      - Block: Granpda said "You can have whatever that is over there in the corner" - Turns out to be a 428 with a CJ crankshaft and pretty 390GT heads
                      - Bored .40 over, New forged pistons (11ish to 1 compression ratio with the 390gt heads, will be about 10.5:1 or less with Edelbrock heads that I want sometime in the future)
                      - Edelbrock Cam, .572 Intake and Exhaust - Soon to put in new valve springs to go alone with that
                      - Some Edelbrock aluminum intake
                      - Tons of other extras that aren't important enough to note here - plans for small nitrous shot one day.
                    
- "Boss 428" stripes because me and my father both LOVE the Boss 302 reflective stripes for '69, however I felt like it was a shame to have "Boss 302" on the side and then a 428 in it so I got a custom set made up.
- Again, tons of other things that aren't worth noting now. Any questions just ask!
 
Currently has been running and driving for a while now, just not where it needs to be. Lots of work left and will always be an ongoing build. It has an FMX auto in it as well! 

Can anyone tell me the distance from the bottom of the trunk lid to the bottom of the mustang letters.
Have a new trunk lid and no holes for the letters.
Bought the stick on ones and just need the measurement.
Thanks.
Walt.

All,
 
I am in the process of collecting the parts for my AOD swap. Can anyone tell me what slot size is needed for the 69 OEM shifter linkage bolt to the transmission arm? I want to use the fully adjustable one from Lokar: 
http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/autotrans-access-parts/accessparts-product-pgs/fordaod-selctarm.html
 
Lokar offers two sizes that would be based on the bolt size from the stock shifter bolt at the transmission. Can anyone tell me which one to use?
ATA-1000 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 1/4" slot and hole ATA-1001 Ford AOD Selector Shaft and Arm 5/16" slot  

I got the doughnut (foam) gaskets and plastic insert from Muscle Car Research. When I put the doghnut gasket (C9AZ-3E629-A Steering Column Shaft Insulator)
in the smaller tube, the steering column rod is very tight to turn, there is too much pressure from that gasket.
 
www.musclecarresearch.com/C9AZ-3E629-A
 
Any ideals what to do, should I put some oil on it.
I want to leave it out. How did this work with the original set up

Bought my first Mustang when I was 17 for $200.  The car was a ’69 hardtop that had been re-painted (badly) neon green with a dark green hood.  Being honest the car was a “beater†but it ran good and with a 302 and  3 speed manual it was fun to drive and always got me where I needed to go (and back). Always liked that car and still have fond memories of it to this day.  Didn’t buy another Mustang for more than 20 years when I bought an ’88 LX with a 5.0 and a 5 speed to use as a donor car on my Factory 5 Cobra build.  Easing into semi-retirement now after a lifetime of Camaros and Corvettes and looking for a ’69 or ’70 Mustang fastback to add to my current stable and give me something new to work on and keep me busy.

Would anyone know of a good assembly manual for my 70 Mach 1?
Thanks,
Bill

I have searched here and found some and not some answers. Too bad I can't pull up the old websites history, there was a ton of info there.
 
Is the visible part of the  steering column in the interior, Dark Charcoal Metallic?  I will be using the spray can version.
 
I had a snap ring in front of the upper bearing and a lock ring behind it. Is there suppose to be another snap ring near the steering wheel?
 
The parts I'm ordering are:
(2) rubber seals, (1) white plastic bushing from Muscle Car Research.
1 upper bearing and rubber seal
1 turn signal wire harness
 
Mike65 said the bearing number is F23z-3517 67-93, but when I pull that up it shows all other Ford vehicles besides a 69/70.
 
Are there any other parts I'm missing or any advise to give.
 
Thanks!

Hello everyone,
  I have a 69 Mustang with a stock 70 351C and C6 transmission. I think the C6 is on its last leg and am considering a AOD swap, or spend ~$1000 on c6 rebuild (beefed up for future rebuild). In the future I am thinking 351W stroker 408 with about ~500 hp so the transmission would need to handle the hp. Or just build the cleveland to ~500 hp, but can decide later as that is a few years away. I see a lot of articles online and in this forum about converting c4 or FMX transmissions to AOD and that there are parts and conversion kits available for such. Also most of these conversion kits are for 289, 302 and 351W. But I cannot find much information or conversion kits for my 70' 351C and C6 to AOD (with 4r70w internals for longevity and increased hp capacity). Can you all knowing owners please point me to some information or list of parts needed for this type of swap. Can I use the 351w parts? What about the yoke and drive shaft?    Thank you,   Sean

Just wanted to share what I did with my trunk. I do not have a fold down seat but needed a place to mount my amp. I used 1/8" sheet metal and had it rolled. I then cut out the door, used a piano hinge and a glove box latch. Kind of like outting a glove box in the trunk. Gives me a place to mount the amp out of the way and still use the storage space under the package tray.
 

Yesterday I had the engine dynoed and reached my goal of 500 Hp. We had 11 runs and the highest Hp was 520, the highest Tq was 489.7. Vacuum was 11-12â€. Run was on 91 octane, Initial 12 all in at 32. Lost only a couple numbers dropping timing to 9.5.

The attached Dyno sheet was done with a 1†spacer, that had the highest Tq reading.

351C 2 bolt main stroked to a 408, Quick Fuel 780 Vac Sec, Comp Cam 602/574, 235/241 @ 50, lobe sep 112, SCAT Rod I Beam Chev 6.000, Race Tech Pistons 20 cc, SCAT Crankshaft Ford 351 Cleveland Series 9000 Cast Crankshafts, CHI 4V Aluminum Heads, Comp Cam Rockers Ultra Pro Magnum XD, Comp Cam Dual Valve Springs 165 @ 1.800 & 385 @ 1.200, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap Intake 7564, Water Pump Flow Kooler, Cloyes Timing Chain True Roller, Distributor MSD 8577, Morel Roller Lifters, Moroso Pick Up 24558, Melling Oil Pump M-84AHV, Tim Meyers -DuraBond Cam Bearings F-26G, Sanderson Shorty Headers.

Since the intake is a 4v/2v version, we ported the intake to match the CHI 4V heads. I went with the CHI 4V's because 3V's would not allow the use of my Shaker Hood Scope.

I would have had a little more gain if I tested with long tube headers.

A friend of mine gave me a partial bucket of this stuff ,he swears by it but i have to see it to believe it .
It is non toxic, will not harm flesh so we shall see if it works .

My test subject will be these rusty but not to bad 70 door hinge plates .I have attached them to a wire and dropped them in the bucket ,i am told at least over night .We shall see tomorrow .If it works ,i have a bout 4 buckets of Mustang nuts and bolts and a bunch of brackets to derust 



 

Hi
I have a 69 Mach1 that was lowered before I bought it.  It is fairly low, I would estimate at least 2" may be more so the travel is reduced particularly at the front.  It only has 1/2" travel to the bump stop on the left hand side and 1" travel on the RHS.  The suspension is stock other than the lowered springs (not sure what brand) and Koni Classic shocks.
 
I would appreciate advice on how I can increase the travel other than raising the vehicle.  I was thinking of reducing the size of the bump stops but that is a crude option particularly as the bump stops are designed to be progressive.  Another option mentioned was to cut a section out of the inner shock tower support and weld it back together, the original bump stop can then be retained.  But there is quite a bit of work in order to do this.
 
I expect other members will have experienced this problem and come up with a good solution.
 
Thanks
Peter

Can someone remove the spam crap from my progress thread.
Thanks

Looking for a partial reflective decal set.  Need RH side.  Have extra LH side and trunk for possible trade or sale.  GOLD/WHITE.  

Has anyone any photos of what is used to hold the headliner tight at the bottom of the rear pillars on parcel tray rack.I have the Headliner Tack strips for the rear quarters,but I think that there must be something up on parcel tray where it meets the pillar.Thanks Phil

WTB 69-70 Mustang L/H Sport Bullet Mirror parts ,I have a good housing but am looking for remote cable,screws ,or complete mirror with damaged housing that could be stripped for parts.Has to have control Knob holder at 90 degrees to cables.

I am seriously considering running the Borgeson setup on my 69 Mach. My car is undergoing a complete restoration, such that everything will be replaced, this includes the entire front end suspension and steering components. That said, my car was originally a power steering equipped car. This Borgeson set up can be done to either a manual or power steering equipped car. Considering that I have to replace my current suspension, I'm wondering what is the better way to go about this??? If I am correct, if I order all my suspension parts for a power steering car, I have to use an adapter fitting. If I order all my suspension parts for a manual steering car, I need purchase a new pitman arm. I'm thinking I like the idea of the manual steering components linked to the Borgeson unit rather than the power steering components with that adapter. Was hoping someone could shed some light on this and if there are any benefits of one setup over the other???  

Got new deluxe door panels from mustang market. Anyone have a clue how to attach the strips to the door panel side? The originals were stapled on.

The door glass rattles on my '70. I have the door panels off, there's a gap between the "U" shaped brackets and the vertical rods they slide up and down on. Is there supposed to be some kind of insulator on those brackets to keep them from rattling around?
 
Thanks,
Matt

Pulled my original valve covers out of storage since 1987. They were cleaned and polished and put away. Now I realize the the buffing guy must have removed baffles (possibly for cleaning?). Does anyone possibly have junk valve covers or maybe send a few pictures or tracing of the baffles? The screws are still there .
 
Thanks

Saw this in Bakersfield Craigslist and thought I remembered someone was looking for one.
 
Underdrive overdrive gearvender mounted on a Ford C4 automatic, less than 10,000 miles, was in a 1928 model A the owner bought it in Colorado brought it here and put a lighter powertrane in it $2500 obo text six six one 667-7889
 
 
https://bakersfield.craigslist.org/pts/5925456591.html

barnett, I think your box is full as I'm unable to send you a private message. Is there a way I can contact you. Perhaps send me your email address via private message?
 
Thanks,
 
John

I bought this mid summer after getting a hole in my previous radiator.  I'm upgrading to an aluminum radiator as the 347 I'm running needs just a little more help.   This has only 4-500 miles on it.
 
http://www.cjponyparts.com/RAD3383/p/RAD3383/?utm_source=Pony&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=OrderConfirmation&lac_guid=ed53fa7f-6e0e-e611-be9f-2c59e547f8d7
 
Will sell for $150 + Shipping.
 
 
 

Must have if you are installing Deluxe Door panels. Original